568 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
[ December 23, 1886. 
The table was laid for thirty, and light was supplied by five 
candelabra arranged down the centre. The central one was raised on 
a block 1 foot high, the next pair 9 inches, and those at each end of 
blocks 6 inches high. Sheets of brown paper were placed right down 
the centre of the table. Mounds of fresh green moss were then formed 
around each of the blocks with a gradual slope to the top. The 
diameter of the central mound at the base was about 20 inches, the next 
pair 17, and the outside ones 15 ; the space between the mounds was 
taen covered with moss, but instead of joining the outer edge of it in 
straight lines from one mound to the other, it was hollowed out so as to 
form the arc of a large circle sweeping towards the centre of the table 
from either side, which gave the whole design an informal appearance. 
It is now easy to imagine the centre of this as being covered with moss, 
with mounds rising around the candlesticks, and the outline hollowed out 
between the mounds ; when this is done the most troublesome part of 
the work is over. The outer edge of the miss was then edged with 
brightly coloured pieces of Alternanthera amoena, which formed a 
beautiful contrast to the white tablecloth on one side and fresh green 
moss on the other. Two light, graceful Palms were next placed between 
the central candelabrum and those on each side of it, and small mounds 
made at their base to cover the pots. In the centre of the space between 
the other candlesticks two more mounds were formed around plants of 
Pandanus Yeitchi, and at each end of the table a noble-looking Pine 
was placed ; the whole surface of moss was then dotted irregularly with 
flowers of bright and distinct colours, such as Poinsettias, Camellias, 
white Chrysanthemums, Eucharis, Epiphyllums, Primulas, Carnations, 
Pelargoniums, and Azaleas, with small sprays of Salvias and flowers of 
Cyclamen peeping up here and there among fronds of Maidenhair Fern, 
with fronds of Pteris serrulata standing up well above the flowers. 
Fronds of Polystichums angulare proliferum, with Nephrolepis tuberosa 
and Cyperus springing up around the base of the candlesticks, completed 
the arrangement, the whole having the appearance of verdant undulating 
banks, with flowers and plants springing up from them in charming 
simplicity and profusion.—H. Dunkin. 
RENOVATING TREES AND SHRUBS ON LAWNS. 
A few years ago Mr. William Paul of Waltham Cross described in 
the Journal a method by which a large specimen Golden Queen Holly on 
his lawn was restored from a state of debility and unsightliness to 
vigorous health and beauty. The plan was extremely simple, but not 
on that account the less sensible, and it had the great merit of accom¬ 
plishing all that was expected from it, if not more. It consisted in 
driving down an iron bar at intervals of a foot or more, thus making a 
series of holes in that portion of the impoverished ground where the 
roots of the tree were expected to be established, yet starving. The holes 
made in the lawn were receptacles for food, and were filled with very 
rich compost, made so, if I remember rightly, by the liberal use of artifi¬ 
cial manure. This renovating mixture was pressed very firmly down till 
no more could be crammed in, on the assumption that the roots of the 
Holly would find their way into the larders and supply nourishment to 
the failing branches. The anticipation was realised, and the enfeebled 
tree was transformed into a richly coloured and handsome specimen, 
which I have s- en and admired. 
Another striking instance of success resulting from the same kind of 
practice I have also had the pleasure of inspecting. The entire front of 
Sisters House, Clapham Common, the commodious suburban residence 
of Thomas Wallis, Esq., has for many years been covered with Euony- 
muses. They are very old and very large. They were simply planted 
in a narrow border, and the roots extended under the lawn in light 
gravelly soil. The fine wall-covering evergreens remained attractive for 
several years, but gradually assumed a sickly hue, and eventually lost 
nearly all their leaves, and became positively unsightly. They were 
doomed for removal; but just at that time Mr. Richard Holmes, the 
gardener, saw a reference in the Journal to Mr. Paul’s method of restor¬ 
ing his Holly. The plan was promptly tried with the Euonymuses, holes 
being driven as deeply as possible into the lawn with a crowbar, where, 
it may be adued, the grass was almost starved out. Water was poured 
iD them to moiiten the dry earth, and the holes, which were a foot apart, 
filled with a very rich mixture of soil and manure, rammed down as 
firm as it could be made. It was just in time to save all the trees but 
one. This died, but the others improved in a manner so rapid as to 
evoke surprise. The fine Euonymuses that most people would conclude 
were past recovery made fresh growth forthwith, and in one season the 
wall was clothed with rich green foliage. A new lease of life was given 
to the trees, and larger and finer examples are not often seen than those 
referred to. 
There are so many specimen trees on lawns losing their lower branches 
and their beauty through soil-exhaustion that the above instances of suc¬ 
cessful renovation and the manner in which it was accomplished are 
worthy of attention. The plan may be carried out now if the ground is in 
suitable condition, or in spring.— A Suburban Gardener. 
EVERLASTING FLOWERS FOR CHRISTMAS 
DECORATIONS. 
It is surprising, since church decoration has become so general at 
Christmas, that more Everlasting Flowers are not employed ; and when 
these are gathered in good condition and dried they are as effective as 
fresh flowers, and far more useful in many positions. What could be 
more beautiful arranged amongst a bank of moss along the sloping stone 
work of the windows and many other similar positions ? Flowers generally 
fade first, and destroy in a great measure the effect of the other decora- 
and tions. But when Everlastings are used they are bright, cheering, 
effective until the whole has to be cleared away. 
For this purpose a good supply of Helichrysums should be grown, 
which, if cut before they are fully expanded and dried in a light, cool, 
airy place, they will retain their colour and prove very valuable. A 
variety of colours can be obtained from a mixed packet of seed, and 
the flowers are telling in any arrangement provided the colours 
be well grouped. If a good supply of white flowers is required—• 
and these are generally in great demand, no better plant for the 
purpose can be grown than Ammobium alatum grandiflorum. The seed 
of this, as well as of the Helichrysums, should be sown under glass about 
the mi’dle of March ; a hotbed covered with a frame will afford the 
requisite heat. The Ammobiums should be planted 18 inches apart in 
good fertile soil, and they will attain a height of 3 to 4 feet, and produce 
hundreds of small pure white flowers from the end of July until cut off by 
frost. Cut the flowers in a dry state before they are fully expanded. 
When they are properly dry and fit for storing for winter use they should 
be tied in small bunches of six, eight, or twelve flowers together, and in 
this form they are charming if associated with moss or evergreens. Rho- 
danthes maculata and its white form alba are invaluable f >r the same 
purpose, and may be grown by everybody that possesses a piece of garden 
ground. The seed can be sown outside during the months of April and 
May, and will in a very short time yield a good supply of both white and 
rose-coloured flowers. Great care is necessary in drying R. maculata, 
for if not carefully done the rose-coloured tint will not be retained. The 
best method is to dry them outside rather quickly, but not exposed to the 
full sun for the flowers are inclined to open, which must be prevented if 
possible by cutting them early. 
Everlastings are alluded to at this period of the year because they are 
indispensable where large and varied decorations have to be carried out, 
and arc equally as useful in many positions as fresh floweis. The latter 
can be retained for choice purposes. Those who have insufficient flowers at 
this season to carry out the work desired of them satisfactorily may be in 
a better position another year if they only cultivate these annual Ever¬ 
lastings in quantity. Many a dwelling might be rendered very orna¬ 
mental by their agency at the cost of a few pence, not only during the 
Christmas festivals, but throughout the winter, if they would only be at 
the trouble of growing a few plants of each kind.—L A. 
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WORKW™ WEEK,. O 
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HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Frosty weather should be turned to account for applying the annual 
surface dressing of old hotbeds or farmyard manure to all bush fruit. Let 
there be no digging either among bushes or between the rows of Rasp¬ 
berries, for the roots are so near the surface that they are quite certain to 
be lacerated and much damaged by digging. A dressing of manure is all 
that is necessary to keep the bushes both healthy and fruitful; it keeps 
the roots at the surface, and supplies them so well with food that robust 
growth and fine fruit are a certainty, and in summer it keeps down weeds, 
and cheeks evaporation. We have tried Raspberries in separate stools, 
in rows, and have had the canes of lengths ranging from 2 feet to 6 feet. 
The best results were obtained from canes planted in rows 5 feet apart, 
and with the canes a foot apart in the rows, and shortened to about 4 feet. 
When planted the canes were all shortens 1 to 18 inches, and the first 
year’s growth was entirely satisfactory, strong canes being thrown up, 
and from the buds on the shortened canes came shoots which yielded a lot 
of useful fruit. This vigorous growth in the first year was obtained by 
planting stout shortened canes in very rich soil, prepired for them in this 
particular instance by making trenches in what was naturally a very poor 
soil, and filling them with a mixture of decayed vegetables, road sidings, 
weeds, stable manure, coal ashes, and lime, well mixed by turning 
several times. We have reason to recommend this plan for general 
practice, for we have seen some very inferior crops of Raspberries planted 
in deep loam, which evidently required heavy dressings of manure. 
Raspberries, be it remembered, answer best when the roots are kept near 
the surface by surface dressings and abundant supplies of sewage during 
growth. 
Prune and tie the canes of established Raspberries. Currant bushes 
of all kinds may also be pruned, but Gooseberries should not be pruned 
till February, as there is so much risk of bud destruction by bullfinches. 
To avoid this protect the buds at once by syringing the bushes thoroughly 
with a mixture of softsoap, soot and water. A coating of this upon the 
shoots nnd branches renders the buds distasteful to the birds, and if care 
is taken to renew it after heavy rains the buds will be saved, and a full 
crop of fruit had every year. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines.— Earliest Home .—Cease syringing the 
trees when the flowers show colour, maintaining, however, a moderate 
