January 21, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
51 
planting, pruning, &c.; means of combating insects and other enemies. 
Nursery and the nursery trade. 
Pomology. —Fruits of temperate and sub-tropical regions, as Apples 
Pears, Quinces, Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Plums, Grapes, Cheiries, 
and Melons ; cold storage, and other methods of keeping, packing, and 
shipping. (For Grapes, see Group 20.) Citrus fruits—Oranges, Lemons, 
&c. Bananas, Pine Apples, and other tropical fruits, except Citrus 
fruits. Small fruits—Berries, &c. Casts and models of fruits. 
Preserved Fruits and VegetaUes.—TyfiQ^ Apples, Pears, and Peaches, 
and small fruit. Apparatus and methods of desiccating. Eaisins and 
raisin industry.—Methods and appliances. Prunes, Figs, Dates, in 
glass or boxes. Fruits in cans or glass, preserved m syrup or alcohol. 
Jellies, iams, marmalades. Vegetables, dried or in cans or in glass. Pickles, 
Champignon, Truffles, chutney, mustard, &c. Fruits glac^d and imita¬ 
tions in wax. 
Appliances and Methods of Uorticulture,Floriculture, Arhorieulture, 
S’o —Hothouses, conservatories.—Methods of construction, managenmnt, 
and operation. Heating apparatus for hothouses and conservatories. Hot¬ 
beds, forcing and propagating houses and appliances. Seats, chairs, and 
adjuncts of the garden and conservatory. Ornamental wirework, 
trellises, fences, borders, labels for plants and trees, «kc. Garden an 
nursery administration and management. Horticulture, floriculture, 
and arboriculture as arts of design and decoration. Laying out gardens, 
—Designs for the laying out of gardens and the improvement of private 
residences ; designs for commercial gardens, nurseries, graperies ; 
designs for the parterre. Treatment of water for ornamental purposes. 
—Cascades, fountains, reservoirs, lakes. Formation and after treat¬ 
ment of lawns. Garden construction, building, &c.—Kockwork, grottos ; 
rustic constructions and ornaments for private gardens and public 
grounds. Planting, fertilising, cultivating, and appliances. 
WOKK.FO^l'rHEWEEK.. 
HAEDY FEUIT GAEDEN. 
Apples akd Pears—Bush and Pyramid Trees.— The pyramid 
form of training has come very much into favour of late years, and 
possesses many advantages over large standard trees for gardens and 
small plots of ground, as it gives a crop of fruit sooner. The trees are 
within reach without cumbersome ladders, high culture is easily carried 
on so that the finest fruit may be obtained by this means, the fruit is 
more secure from wind in exposed situations, and a larger number of 
varieties can be grown if desired, although this is not advisable if the 
fruit is intended for market. This form of tree requires more attention 
in the young state than the ordinary standard tree. A certain amount of 
pruning is necessary every year while any vigorous growth is going on 
in order to preserve the balance of sap, so that the tree keeps of an 
. equal size all round, and above all to keep the branches thin, so that 
light and sunshine can reach all parts of the tree. As a matter of course 
all dead or weak branches must be cleared away. If these conditions 
are secured no other pruning is necessary. It cannot be too strongly 
impressed on the mind of the fruit grower that pruning this class of 
tree by cutting hard back year after year will not induce fruitfulness ; 
on the contrary, fruit spurs are more likely to form if pruning is 
abandoned, and yet it is by no means uncommon to find trees of this 
class that bear little or no fruit and are annually pruned down to the 
same point after they reach the regulation size. Trees in this state 
should have a few of the strongest and best placed shoots retained for 
growing, merely shortening their points back one-fourth of their 
length to induce the buds to break and form spurs, and to give the 
necessary stability to the main branches. All other young wood that 
is weak or too thickly placed should be thinned, thus leaving ten or a 
dozen main branches to grow and form long cordons full of fruit spurs. 
If treated in this manner for three or four seasons the trees will become 
much larger, but they will also bear good crops of fruit if other con¬ 
ditions are favourable, and after fruiting commences on an extensive 
scale growth will proportionately diminish until scarcely any pruning 
is necessary. 
If from any cause the trees cannot be allowed to grow to a larger 
size, any unfruitfulness must be corrected by judicious root-pruning, 
and when forming new plantations less vigorous stocks should be 
employed, such as the English Paradise for Apples, and the Quince for 
Pears, but the latter is of no use in dry situations ; but continually 
cutting back the strong shoots annually made is only a waste of tirne 
and of the tree’s energies, and will never induce fruitfulness in 
unfruitful trees. 
Labels. —All trees should have their labels examined systematically 
once a year, and the present is the best time for the purpose, as they 
are more easily found when there are no leaves on the trees. Some may 
require renewing, but the most common fault occurs where they are 
attached to the°tree by wires. These are apt to cut the bark as the 
branches become larger, and eventually induce canker and death to the 
branch. Strips of lead, with the name punched in by means of moveable 
type, form one of the best and cheapest kinds of labels. Advertised 
metal labels, with the names cast on in raised letters, are cheap and 
almost imperishable, or pieces of lath smoothed and painted may be 
used, but thes^ as a rule, need too much attention in the way of renewal, 
and should only be used on a small scale. All fruits in gardens should 
be labelled for convenience of gathering and storing the fruits, and as 
a means of education to the younger members of the profession, 
FEUIT FOECING. 
Pines, —The plants which completed their growth early last autumn 
and have been treated (as advised) so as to fruit early in the year, will 
now be doing so; if not, they must be accelerated by extra care and 
attention, which will be fully repaid by the fruit ripening at a time 
when it is most in request for parties given during what is known as the 
London season. Take every advantage, therefore, of suitable weather to 
afford increased heat during the day. Let the temperature rise to 80° before 
giving air, then, with moderate ventilation, allow it to rise to 85° or 90°, 
closing at85°, the night temperature being gradually raised to 70° and 75° 
by day by artificial means, unless the weather be dull and cold, when 
6° less will be more suitable. The moisture will need to be increased 
correspondingly with the temperature, but do not syringe the plants or 
the hot-water pipes, yet maintain a genial condition of the atmosphere 
by damping unheated surfaces two or three times a day. Keep the 
bottom heat steady at 85° to 90° for Queens, other varieties about 5° 
less. Look the plants over once a week for_ water, and when a plant 
needs a supply afford a watering with weak liquid manure at the same 
temperature as the plunging material. 
Fruiting Plants. —Ordinary fruiting plants should have a tem¬ 
perature at night of G0° to 65°, 65° by day in dull cold weather, 70° to 
75° in mild weather and with a little sun, ventilating a little at 75°, 
allowing an advance to 80° with sun, at which close the house, 
sprinkling the paths and walls at the same time. 
Succession Plants. —Sufficient heat to maintain the plants in slow 
yet steady advancement in growth is necessary in this department. 
That will be secured by a night temperature of 55° to 60°, and 60° to 
65° by day, advancing to 70° or 75° from sun heat with moderate 
ventilation so as to secure a sturdy plant, keeping the air moderately 
dry, as too much moisture at the present time either at the roots or in 
the atmosphere tends to a soft attenuated growth. 
yios. —Earliest Foreed Trees in Those started in November 
to supply ripe fruit at the close of April and in May are forming fresh 
roots abundantly ; therefore the bottom heat must be kept steady at 70° 
to 75°, bringing the fermenting material to the rim of the pots. This 
will encourage surface roots, and instead of letting these extend over the rims 
of the pots into the fermenting material, place pieces of turf round the 
rims of the pots, and extending over or down the sides, which will keep 
the roots near home and induce a sturdy growth, and the roots can be 
fed in the turf. To encourage active feeders from the collar fill the hollows 
formed by the turves with sweet lumpy manure or rough pieces of_ turf, and 
sprinkle these occasionally with a little of the following mixture .^— 
Superphosphate 2 lbs., nitrate of potash 1 lb,, sulphate of lime 1 lb., 
mix, and apply at the rate of half ounce per square foot at intervals of 
about three weeks. The soil will grasp the substances, and each water¬ 
ing will render them available for taking up by the roots ; besides, there 
is no waste, for the fermenting material will take care of that aliment passing 
off in superfluous water. Keep a good moisture in the atmosphere by 
syringing twice a day and damping as required in dry weather, taking 
advantage of every gleam of sunshine for raising the temperature to 
80°, but admit a little air at 70°, increasing it with the temperature, 
closing at 75°, and so as to raise the temperature to 80°. Let there be no 
lack of water at the roots, and with the drainage good there is little 
danger of giving too much, many crops being lost by keeping the roots 
too dry or supplying water too late and irregularly. In dull weather the 
temperature should be kept at 65° by day and 60° at night, but 5° more in 
both cases when the weather is mild. Superfluous growths should be rubbed 
off, and the shoots stopped at about the fifth or sixth joint, but trees 
making sturdy growths will not need stopping, and the finest Figs are borne 
upon extensions, yet stopping is necessary, especially growth likely to 
interfere with an equal distribution of the sap and the admission of 
light and air to all parts of the tree in equal share. 
Early forced Planted-out Trees. —HhQ trees started early in the 
month and planted in inside borders of limited extent will, the borders 
having been repeatedly watered so as to bring the soil into a thoroughly 
moist condition, be starting into growth, and may have the night tem¬ 
perature- raised to 55°, and 60° to 65° by day from fire heat, with an 
advance from sun heat to 70° or 7.5°, but with moderate ventilation. 
Syringe the trees in the morning and early afternoon of fine days, the 
latter always sufficiently early to allow the trees to become fairly dry 
before night, and in dull weather omit the afternoon syringing. Weakly 
trees may have a good soaking of liquid manure at a temperature of 
85° to 90°, but it must not be too strong. This will induce the formation 
of roots, and active feeders being pushed they should be encouraged by 
light mulchings of lumpy material. 
Cherry House. —The utmost care must be taken to have the trees 
perfectly free from aphides. These pests seem to emerge from the eggs 
simultaneously with the buds casting their scales, and they at once 
fasten on the growths. That they most be prevented doing by fumi¬ 
gating so as to thoroughly annihilate the pests, for it is essential to a 
good set that the blossoms be perfectly developed, therefore effect their 
