16 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 14, 1892. 
gardeners who may be very susce-ssful in the culture of some 
plants seldom procure anything beyond a cultural commendation 
or a vote of thanks. I have heard many complaints on this 
ground, and there is some reason for them. A good example 
was therefore set by the Council when they decided to oflEer 
two medals for the best new Orchids not iu commerce, and 
it is desirable that this should be followed in other classes of 
plants. 
The two selected for the honours named were both hybrids, 
namely, Lselia hybrida Arnoldiana from Messrs. Sander & Co., and 
Disa Veitchi from Messrs. J. Veitch & Sons, and in addition to 
the medals each exhibitor secured a first-class certificate. The 
Lielia was the result of a cross between Lselia purpurata and a 
variety of Cattleya labiata, but it was not stated to which type 
this belonged. From the same species hybrids have been obtained 
in Lselia bella and L callistoglossa, but the variations in both the 
parents are so great, especially in the Cattleya, that by selecting 
the extreme forms it might be possible to obtain as distinct crosses 
as between other allied species. The plant shown was ten years 
old, the seed having been sown in 1881 ; it was vigorous in habit 
with narrow pseudo-bulbs 6 to 8 inches long, and leaves 12 inches 
long by inches across, stout and bright showy green. The 
flowers were large and distinguished by a particularly graceful 
contour and pose, the sepals and petals suffused with ro^y purple, 
the lip intense magenta crimson with darker veins, and a golden 
bronze tint at the base and in the throat. All the experts who 
saw this fine hybrid were unanimous in according it a place amongst 
the best yet raised. 
The Disa as a hybrid possessed even more interest, and in its 
way was not less beautiful, though necessarily less showy. It was 
the first hybrid in the genus that has flowered, and having been 
derived from a cross between D. grandiflora and D. racemosa, 
something of an unusual character was f lirly expected. The result 
equalled the anticipations, for while the habit, style of flowering, 
and colour of D. racemosa had been to a great extent fixed, the 
flowers had acquired a large share of the size and shape of 
D. grandiflora. The two lower divisions of the flower are of a 
rich rosy tint, while the upper one is paler, or nearly white, the 
lip being spotted with crimson. When this becomes sufficiently 
abundant it will be an excellent companion for the handsome old 
Disa so well cultivated in some gardens. 
To name the next Orchid of the year in order of merit that 
would be in accordance with the taste of all would be a difficult 
task, but my own opinion is strongly in favour of the Cypripedium 
insigne var. Sanderse, exhibited by Baron Schroder on November 
10th, and then awarded a first-class certificate. If I had been 
in any degree uncertain about the merit of this variety, all 
doubts were effectually removed when towards the end of that 
month I had the satisfaction to see a plant in flower in Mr. 
Norman C. Cookson’s wonderful collection of seedlings at 
Wylam-on-Tyne. This is one of the most delicately beautiful 
Orchids known to me, and it is doubtful if any member of the 
family recently introduced or raised will ever attain the popu¬ 
larity there is every reason to suppose this will acquire in years 
to come. It seems to be looking a long way ahead to predict 
popularity for a plant which has been sold and resold at £250, 
but it evidently possesses all the free-growing characters of 
the more familiar type, and though an age will be required to 
render the variety as abundant as that, it may be safely asserted 
no time will be lost in increasing the stock. It is an intro¬ 
duced variety, and it would be a pleasant surprise for some 
collector to discover a snug little colony of a few scores of plants, 
though this is not a very probable occurrence. In shape of the 
flower this is a fine type of C. insigne, and the colour, a 
uniform pale yet clear bright creamy yellow tint, is quite 
unique.— Lewis Castle. 
(To be continued.) 
MAKING CHARCOAL. 
Gakdeners having to deal with soil of a heavy retentive 
character find charcoal valuable, as not only does it render such 
soil sweet, but it acts as a storehouse for ammonia, as it does also 
in that of a light character. Where the roots of plants are 
confined in pots, and in the case of Vines or any kind of fruit 
trees, which are of necessity growing in soil of a heavy nature, 
the use of charcoal is undeniable. Chrysanthemums are the 
better for an abundance of charcoal mixed with the soil ; but 
the lighter the latter is the less charcoal is needed, as no plant 
with which I am acquainted, except an aquatic, requires more 
water at the roots than Chrysanthemums. Gardeners living in the 
country have abundant opportunities to make charcoal if the 
necessary knowledge is obtained. In most places there is an 
annual or a biennial thinning of branches or trees, and from these 
thinnings a supply can be obtained. 
It is not necessary to burn charcoal every year, for it will keep 
for several years, provided it is in a dry place. Charcoal burning 
provides employment for the men during the winter, when other 
outdoor work cannot be proceeded with, or when other duties do 
not press so heavily. It does not matter in what month it is done, 
provided it is between the time the leaves are shed and before the 
new growth appears. Although I prefer Beech wood, it does not 
matter what kind is used. Spruce Fir is perhaps the least desirable, 
as it is rather more liable to burn into ashes than charcoal. It is 
not necessary to dig a hole in the ground before burning, as is 
sometimes practised by charcoal burners. I make ours in the 
reserve ground, where are stored the manure heaps, vegetable 
refuse, and old potting soil, which reduces the labour considerably, 
as we make use of the materials named to assist in the burning 
of the charcoal. For convenience in burning, the wood must be 
cut into lengths 4 feet long, commonly called “ cord ” wood, and 
averaging from 4 inches to 6 inches in thickness. If larger 
pieces than these are used there is often considerable waste 
through the burning of the outsides at the expense of the central 
parts. Where the wood is of a mixed character it is important 
that the pieces be smaller, as some sorts require more burning than 
others. 
Proceed to form the base of the heaps, which should be, say? 
6 feet in diameter, although larger heaps can just as well be made- 
I mention this size to convey to those inexperienced in the matter 
some idea of what wood is required. Where the heaps are larger 
the stack should be made of that width at the base, but as much 
longer as is necessary, but in the case of a small quantity a circular 
heap answers very well. In the centre we lay a small bundle of 
straw, covering it with small sticks ; old pea sticks will answer 
equally well. This is to ignite the larger pieces of wood which are 
stacked on their end in pyramid form, building from the centre 
outwards, and placing the wood so that the flames can pass evenly 
through the whole heap. The wood may be stacked 6 feet high, 
and that measurement to 8 feet wide at the base will insure a 
quantity of charcoal being made. 
When the stack is formed commence banking it in with partly 
decomposed wet manure, leaving two holes each 1 foot square at 
the bottom opposite to each other on two sides of the heap. These 
holes are to provide a current of air through the stack, which 
assists the centre to burn more freely. In the case of a heap 
6 feet high the manure may be placed around it 4 feet high and 
1 foot thick. The reason for laying it on before the wood is 
lighted is that, owing to the heat of the fire when once well alight, 
the burner cannot get near enough to place the smothering material 
around quickly, therefore as much preparation should be made 
as possible before lighting the wood. The straw is ignited 
at both sides at the same time through the holes previously 
mentioned at the base, and in from three to four hours the wood 
wiU be sufficiently aglow to require the whole to be gradually 
covered with the manure. Where much green wood is used a 
longer time is required for burning before covering ; neither 
should all the green wood be placed together if some to be burnt 
is dry. 
The outside surface of the manure must be airtight; if not, the 
air passing through or into the heap will cause the wood to blaze 
and burn into ashes rather than be “ smothered ” when a certain 
stage is reached, and consequently made into charcoal. Some fine 
soil laid over the manure will effectually stop the air passages. 
The holes at the bottom should be blocked up last, leaving all 
secure for the night. If in the morning the fire has burst through 
it must be at once re-covered. 
If the wood used was all green more time will he needed for it 
to burn thoroughly, and the day after lighting two or three holes 
should be pushed through the bank of manure with a long stick 
to encourage the burning of the green wood by the admission 
