January 28, 1892.] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
67 
I N the cultivation of plants and trees in pots success is in a 
great measure dependant upon the suitability of the soil used 
at potting time. Most gardeners are aware of the kind of soil in 
which various classes of plants may be depended upon to produce 
satisfactory results, but in many instances, unfortunately, they are 
not able to secure the particular kind their experience leads them to 
prefer. There is, however, no denying the fact that a vast amount 
of improvement may be wrought in soils which without consider¬ 
able preparation would be totally unfit for potting purposes, and I 
have frequently noticed that good cultivators having only inferior 
materials to form their potting composts of will, by an intelligent 
method of preparation, form a compost which as a root-producing 
medium will compare favourably with mixtures formed of the best 
materials in less able hands. 
Where good turfy loam can be obtained the old practice of 
stacking it in a heap, with layers of stable manure placed between 
at about 18 inches apart, is a good one, and as far as my experience 
goes we have as yet hit upon no better plan. After having re¬ 
mained in the staf'k for a year, the whole mass being in a fine 
mellow state, many classes of plants will root freely in it without 
any other addition, and produce grand sturdy growth. Thoroughly 
good turfy loam containing plenty of fibre, and rather inclined to 
be light than heavy, is, however, now getting yearly more difficult 
to obtain, and the various classes of loam which have as a matter of 
necessity to be used, differ so much in character as to render it 
necessary to vary the quantities used with other materials to form 
a compost according to the degree of density they possess ; for 
instance, in a case when three parts loam to one of peat is recom¬ 
mended, if the former is inclined to be heavy a greater amount of 
the latter material should be used, together with a larger propor¬ 
tion of such sweeteners of the soil as charcoal and lime rubble, 
which act principally in a mechanical way by keeping the soil open, 
and slightly in a chemical one, the charcoal by absorbing and keep¬ 
ing in store portions of the ammonia of the soil and the lime 
rubble by supplying salts of potash and lime. 
Peat is even more variable in quality than loam, and when it 
cannot be procured with plenty of “ springy ” fibres it ought to 
be sparingly used, as it gets into a sodden and sour condition 
sooner than the majority of potting materials. This is especially 
the case with that kind of peat which consists largely of decaying 
vegetable matter of a very dark colour and a small percentage of 
fibre of the right kind. What is wanted is plenty of those small, 
fibrous Heath roots of a brown colour, with a liberal admixture of 
sharp, gritty matter. This is the kind of peat which will keep in 
a wholesome condition for a long time, and as the fibres gradually 
decay supply the roots of plants with certain elements of necessary 
food. A class of peat which is extremely misleading is one which 
is of a very dark colour, and may be cut in thick solid squares, 
and is permeated with rather strong white roots. When damp this 
appears to many to be a good serviceable kind, but if seen when 
thoroughly dry the darkest portions of it crumble to dust, and the 
fibre left will be found destitute of those minute rootlets which 
run in all directions, and bind the whole into a threadlike mass. 
I once saw a mistake made in potting Heaths into this misleading 
peat, and I have since that time been particularly careful to avoid 
anything approaching it in appearance. Good leaf soil completes 
No. 605.—VOL. XXIY., Third Seriks. 
the list of the three principal ingredients from which composts 
suitable for all classes of plants can be formed. That formed of 
Oak and Beech leaves as they fall from the trees and decay in a 
natural manner is undoubtedly the best ; but when heaps of leaves 
are collected annually, and turned once or twice during the course 
of their decomposition, the next best form of leaf soil is 
obtained. 
When forming a compost for a miscellaneous collection of 
stove and greenhouse plants, I find the best plan is to cut up the 
squares of loam and peat into strips with a spade, then to pull 
these strips into pieces with the hands, knocking some of the loose 
soil out as the work proceeds, placing the loam on one side and 
the peat on the other, leaving the lumps of each material in sizes 
varying from a Walnut to a cricket ball. The finer portions of the 
soil which have been shaken out can be placed in a heap, where it 
will be useful for potting many softwooded plants, when other 
additions have been made to it. 
In finally determining the quantities of peat and loam to be 
mixed together, the quality of each must be considered. Crotons, 
Dracaenas, Gardenias, and Stephanotis are all vei’y partial to loam 
where it is of a good fibry nature, and without the least tendency 
to adhesiveness. In such cases I would use two parts loam to one 
of peat ; but, on the other hand, where the peat is of much better 
quality than the loam, use a greater proportion of it. In cases 
where the loam is of a heavy binding nature, and the peat good, 
excellent results may be obtained by the exclusive use of the 
latter. Azaleas, Camellias, and Rhododendrons are often potted in 
peat alone, but in the case of Camellias the growth made is much 
more floriferous if from one-third to one-half of good loam is used, 
and even Azaleas and Rhododendrons are benefited if one part in 
four of the fibre of loam is ad led, taking care to shake and beat out 
the loose particles of soil. When abundance of these two soils— 
which form the principal proportions of potting composts for the 
classes of plants above named—are in readiness, it is an easy 
matter to vary the quantities mixed together to suit the require¬ 
ments of the numerous species of plants to be dealt with. 
For stove plants leaf soil will not be much needed, except in the 
cases of cuttings ; small plant-!, and Coleuses, Caladiums, Gesneras, 
and Gloxinias, or any plants of a similar nature which require to be 
shaken out annually, may with advantage be given a much richer 
soil than many cultivators recommend. This is especially the 
case with the two first named, as they literally revel in a compost 
in which well decayed manure forms one-half of the whole bulk. 
I have, however, somewhat digressed, and will now return to the 
general class of stove and greenhouse plants. Having prepared 
and placed in a heap such quantities of peat and loam as the 
judgment of the cultivator, founded upon the knowledge already 
given, shall direct, the only other materials necessary are those 
which will keep the soil in the right mechanical condition, and a 
small quantity of manure to add fertility. 
Charcoal broken into pieces varying in size from a Hazel nut to 
a Walnut, used at the rate of half a gallon to a bushel of soil, will 
in most cases be sufficient; when a larger quantity is necessary, a 
few pieces may be worked in among the soil as the work of potting 
proceeds. Good sharp silver sand, used at the rate of one part in 
twelve or fifteen, will be found a good proportion. Where sharp 
sand is difficult to obtain, broken crocks sifted through a fine sieve 
should be used in conjunction with the best sand at command. Cow 
manure has long been considered the very best natural fertiliser to 
use in potting composts, but before doing so it should always be 
thoroughly dried and rubbed through a sieve, as large numbers of 
minute insects are often found in it, and when these are present 
they are inimical to root action. Spent Mushroom bed manure is 
also capital material for mixing with soils for potting, but I prefer 
to use horse droppings in a fresh state, after having slightly dried 
them by placing over the top of a stokehole boiler for a few hours. 
The only objection that I know of to their use in this state is 
No. 2261.—VOL. LXXXVI., Old Sbries. 
