78 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Felriary 4, 1892. 
say further, that taking them in the aggregate, and in comparison 
with the aggregate of other countries, there are no gardeners on 
earth to surpass, if equal, the gardeners of the United Kingdom. 
PREPARING POTTING COMPOSTS. 
When preparing composts for softwooded plants we have to 
consider that the majority of plants which come under this defini¬ 
tion are shaken out annually, and therefore do not need a compost 
of so lasting a nature as those which are left undisturbed for 
several years. Cultivators have, therefore, much less difficulty in 
obtaining suitable soil for such plants as Primulas, Pelargoniums, 
and Fuchsias than they often experience when preparing composts 
for hardwooded plants and stove and greenhouse shrubs. Turfy 
loam is by no means indispensable to success in the growth of 
many species of softwooded plants ; but where it can be obtained 
it is decidedly preferable to any other soil, as it lasts a long time 
in a sweet wholesome condition, requires but little preparation, 
and is generally free from insects. Few plants, however, exhaust 
in one season the large amount of potash good turfy loam contains, 
so that when not easily procured it can be economised to a great 
extent by preserving the soil shaken away from plants which were 
potted in fresh loam, and by the addition of decaying animal 
and vegetable matter may be used again for hosts of quickly 
growing plants. 
It is a capital plan at this time of the year to prepare a large 
heap of potting compost, and place it in a dry position. Where 
shed room is scarce a heap can be placed in a sheltered or dry 
position in the open air, and be covered with boards or thatched 
hurdles. Where turfy loam can be spared let the proportions 
consist of two parts loam to one of leaf soil and half a part 
spent Mushroom bed manure or well decayed manure, with a 5-inch 
potful of soot to each barrowful of the compost. When good 
loam cannot be had ordinary garden soil, with proper preparation, 
will often produce results equally good, although it must not be 
forgotten that feeding and watering should then have every atten¬ 
tion, as the plants are more largely dependent upon fertilisers 
applied while growth is taking place, and the soil is more prone to 
become sodden than is the case when maiden loam is used. If the 
soil used is obtained from a kitchen garden where repeated dress¬ 
ings of manure have been given it is often rich enough in animal 
manures, but requires to be made sweet and open. In such in¬ 
stances add one part leaf soil to three of garden soil, with a little 
wood ashes and lime rubbish ; but when the soil used is of a poorer 
nature use one part of well-decayed manure, instead of using three 
parts of garden soil, the other ingredients being used in the same 
proportions. If old potting soil is the best material that can be 
had, employ fresh horse manure at the rate of one part to two 
of the old soil and half a part wood ashes, and a 6-inch potful of 
bonemeal to each barrowful of the other ingredients. 
In all of the above mixtures use a proportionate quantity of 
soot. Wood ashes are extremely valuable for mixing with potting 
soils, as they abound in potash compounds, and may be used in 
the largest proportions when the bulk of soil mixed with them 
consists of decaying animal and vegetable matter ; in such cases 
the wood ashes not only tend to make the compost open and sweet, 
but also insures the production of plenty of woody tissues in the 
plants grown in it. On the other hand, if used too largely in 
soils not rich in decaying matter, the wood ashes tend to produce 
a hard wiry growth, which becomes prematurely stunted on 
account of an insufficient supply of nitrogenous matter. Having 
now described a variety of materials which may be formed into 
excellent potting composts, a few words on the manner of mixing 
may be useful, as it is important to have the various ingredients 
thoroughly incorporated. This is best done where large quantities 
have to be mixed by forming a conical shaped heap, throwing each 
shovelful on the top, so that it rolls down the cone on all sides. 
The mixing is thus performed in an easy and thoroughly efficient 
manner. I ought to have stated thac a little sharp sand should be 
added before mixing, and it is important that the sand used should 
be sharp. It is far better to use road sand than the soft white sand 
one often sees, which is only adapted for propagating purposes. 
Those within easy reach of the coast will have no difficulty in 
obtaining sea sand, which is inexpensive and quite satisfactory, 
although at one time cultivators were somewhat dubious about 
using it. 
When a heap of compost is mixed as above described at the 
beginning of the potting season it proves a great saving of labour, 
as there is nothing which, to use a common expression, makes such 
“ ducks and drakes ” of time as to be continually mixing small 
quantities of soil, or doing other work on the piecemeal system, 
and should if possible be avoided. I do not mean to imply that 
when a heap of soil is mixed in the way above indicated it is 
exactly suitable for all kinds of softwooded plants, but it will be 
found well suited in its general composition, and it is an easy 
matter to add leaf soil, manure, or loam to adapt it to the require¬ 
ments of whatever plants are in turn potted. 
Capital soil for potting bedding plants in is that which, in 
garden parlance, is usually called “ waste soil,” but the term can 
scarcely be considered well chosen, seeing that the material it 
refers to is useful for so many purposes. This generally consists 
of soil shaken away from the roots of plants before they are con¬ 
signed to the rubbish heap, or when they are repotted, the surface 
soil removed from Vine and Peach borders, and that which has 
been used for growing early vegetables in frames. These hetero¬ 
geneous materials when mixed together form a compost quite rich 
enough for plants which, like those used for bedding purposes, 
only remain in the pots a few months, and it is one in which many 
classes of plants root with surprising freedom.—H. Dunkin. 
OPEN-AIR PEACHES. 
It is worthy of note that Peach trees against warm walls are in 
a very promising condition, never more so, in fact, and that, too, 
in spite of the unfavourableness of last summer. With so much 
dull wet weather and a minimum amount of sunshine it would 
not have been very surprising if the wood had ripened badly, and 
failed to form many fruit buds, but as far as this district is con¬ 
cerned the reverse appears to be the case. Nor are we particularly 
favourably circumstanced cor wood-ripening and early maturing 
of growth, the position being low, the climate somewhat moist, and 
the subsoil a very strong clay. If my experience, therefore, is 
any criterion. Peach trees if given the benefit of the shelter of a 
wall facing nearly or quite south will do well in most seasons, 
while there can be no question of the hardiness of the trees. If 
they will pass through such a winter as that of 1890 and 1891 
apparently uninjured (and not one of ours was injured) they 
must be classed as being perfectly hardy, so that other causes have 
to be found for the great falling off in the culture of Peaches 
in the open air which took place or was at its lowest ebb twenty 
years ago, and from which state of affairs recovery is not yet 
complete. 
To all appearances it was not so much the fault of the trees, or 
say from any inherent weakness of the same, that they failed, but 
it was rather that of the cultivator. When the rage for glazed 
houses set in, this being when more cheaply constructed houses 
came into vogue, nothing but these would do for Peaches and 
Nectarines, outside planting being greatly neglected accordingly. 
Now I find that if we fail to plant young trees frequently, one 
or two being added every season, the chances are a blank will soon 
occur, the older trees on our soil and in that of many other 
gardens being liable to lose limbs or die wholesale. Apparently 
there is no possibility of long preventing the latter unfortunate 
occurrence ; at any rate I have tried a variety of preventive measures 
with but little success, and it is certain when no active steps what¬ 
ever are taken to obviate the difficulty the trees will not last long. 
Ceasing to plant young trees in anticipation of failures of the older 
ones was therefore one great cause of the discredit under which 
Peaches laboured not many years ago, and if the planting of young 
trees be not persevered with, the walls will probably again be badly 
furnished. 
That Peaches and, in a much less degree. Nectarines, pay well 
for good culture in most midland and southern districts there is no 
question. The fruit may be smaller and not so good in point of 
quality as those ripened under glass, but they are usually better 
coloured, and would often be much larger if the trees were not 
so recklessly overcropped. If suitable wall space, therefore, is 
at present well furnished with fruit trees other than Peaches, 
it is yet advisable to prepare a number of the latter to 
gradually take the place of worn-out old trees, or to supersede 
Plums, Cherries, and Pears, all of which usually succeed better in 
cooler positions, and can be transplanted even if of large size. 
If good-sized trees are wanted quickly, then plant that are known 
as trained trees ; but if the grower can afford to wait a year or 
two longer for fruit, maidens would answer well. It must be 
added, though, that the latter ought not be left just as they are 
received from the nursery, or they will never make good trees ; 
but they must be cut hard back, or to within 4 inches of the point 
of union of the scion with the stock, the best placed of the young 
shoots resulting being selected and laid in during the summer. 
Being pruned moderately hard during the following winter, 
sufficient young growths will be had to lay the foundation of a 
good tree. Tiained trees being furnished with ten or twelve 
fairly well-ripened growths, these latter before active growth com¬ 
mences should each be shortened to about one-half of their 
