February 4, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
93 
is a well-known instance of this biennial fruiting; but Kentish Fill- 
basket, Herefordshire Fearmain, Fearns Pippin, Blenheim Pippin, and 
many others are more or less inclined to follow this plan, the cause of 
which may be ascribed, in some instances at least, to exhaustion of the 
tree while bearing a heavy crop, and this has been proved in some 
places with the White Juneating by cutting all the flowers off as soon as 
they appear. Where all the trees of this kind flower in one season a 
continuous crop may be had by depriving half the trees of their flowers. 
In considering the fruitfulness of trees allowance must therefore be 
made for this peculiarity with trees that bore well the previous season. 
But there are many trees in gardens and orchards which never bear a 
good crop ; some fail because they are bad varieties, and where this is 
the case if they are healthy, vigorous trees they should have their tops 
cut back now ready for regrafting with better varieties. In doing this 
it is well to cut back to within a moderate distance of the main stem, or 
there will be much wild wood in the centre of the tree, which will prove 
troublesome by sending out strong young shoots, but do not make any 
cuts more than 3 inches in diameter, and leave enough wood so that an 
inch more may be cut off each place when the time arrives for grafting. 
Any trees of these useful varieties that are too old or otherwise unfit for 
grafting should be destroyed at once. 
It frequently happens that trees of reliable varieties cease to bear 
good crops from exhaustion. This is more liable to occur in grass 
orchards than in a garden, as the usual routine of cropping and manur¬ 
ing the ground for vegetables also assists the fruit trees that are near. 
In grass orchards it is a different matter. Very often the grass Is mown 
and carted away for hay, thus assisting to impoverish the ground, and 
nothing is returned again as manure. When manure is given the grass 
has the ereatest share before it reaches the roots of the trees. The 
beneficial effects of exposing the soil to the air and to severe frost, which 
liberates potash, I'me, and other mineral substances necessary to the 
health of the trees, are also lo t to a great extent in grass orchards, 
consequently the trees bear well for a few seasons when in a young 
state, and afterwards rapidly decline in health and prosperity. Where 
previous directions have been carried out these trees will have had 
their branches thinned and all decaying and useless wood taken away. 
The roots should now have attention in order to restore fertility to 
the soil. 
Commence by removing the soil about 3 feet from the main stem 
until some of the main roots are found, and then work outwards from 
the tree as far as the spread of the branches, working carefully with 
forks so as not to injure any of the roots; if these are down in a bad 
subsoil they may be carefully raised, doing one half and leaving the 
others until one or two years hence. If the soil is right they need not 
be dug up, but a good layer of farmyard manure should be spread over 
them about 9 inches in thickne-s, and the soil returned on the top of 
this—a mound will now be formed where the manure has been placed, 
but this will eventually settle down to the ordinary level, or nearly so— 
a good soaking of sewage or liquid manure occasionally during the 
summer months will help these trees considerably, especially in hot dry 
weather, and a great improvement in health will soon take place, which 
will in time give larger and more profitable crops, and well repay the 
cultivator for any extra attention he has given the trees. 
PLANTiNa.—Proceed with any arrears of this as soon as weather 
permits, a short delay now will make almost a season’s difference in the 
growth of the trees ; have all of them mulched at once to prevent frost 
penetrating to the roots, and to keep them moist and warm when the 
March winds come make all secure when planting in order that the 
roots may start without beiog disturbed by the wind. 
SciOKa POE GEAFTiNa. —If not already cut off lose no time in 
securing tnem ; lay them in firmly by the heels behind a wall or in some 
similar position where the sun will not reach them, and see that they 
have a moderate supply of moisture, and are correctly labelled. Strong 
young shoots mtde last season are the best, and they should always be 
taken from young vigorous trees if possible. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. —The plants recently started into fruit will, if in good con¬ 
dition at the roots, produce strong suckers. When the suckers are large 
enough to handle, all, except one to each plant, should have the growths 
checked by taking out the centres of those not wanted. To supplement 
the autumn-potted plants select others which have been wintered in 
7 or 8-inch pots, choosing the most vigorous plants. The remainder 
of such plants should be reserved until the general spring potting, when 
they should be shaken out and treated like suckers. Procure fibrous loam 
with the herbage reduced, or if used fresh it should be placed where it 
will be heated so as to kdl the grass and any larvse it may contain, and 
when torn up in suitable compost add about a quart of soot to every 
bushel, and a similar quantity of superphosphate. If the turf has 
been laid up it must be had under cover some little time before using to 
become dried. Dram thepots moderately but etficiently,du8ting with wood 
ashes or soot so as to exclu ie worms, and, keeping the plants welt down 
in the pots, ram the soil firmly round the roots, leaving sufficient space 
to admit of copious supplirs of water being given when nece-sary. For 
Queens, 10-inch pocs, and 11 or 12 inches are suitable for those of 
stronger or more robust growth. A temperature of 60° to 65° will be 
sufficient for these plants, also for those potted last autumn, and 80° to 
85° at the roots. 
Plants in beds about to be started into fruit must not have the heat 
at the base of the pots over 90° or 95°, or their roots will be injured. If 
suffioient fruit be started to meet the requirements, later successional 
plants may be advanced slowly, they, with autumn potted suckers 
requiring careful wa ering, especially where the heat is supplied by 
fermenting materials. 
Figs. — Earliest Forced Trees in Pots. —These are now in full growth, 
and will need the points of the shoots pinched off when they have made 
five leaves. Maintain the temperature at 55° to 60° at night and 65* by 
day, advancing to 75° with sun heat, closing early and allowing an 
advance to 80° or 85°. In dull weather a little extra fire heat early in 
the day will allow a little ventilation, if only for an hour or two to give 
a change of air, and this tends to solidify the growth. Keep the bottom 
heat at 70° to 75° steadily, introducing fresh leaves as required. Red 
spider must be kept down by syringing, but always sufficiently early in 
the afternoon to allow of the foliage becoming dry before night. In 
dull weather it is better to damp the paths than to keep the trees 
constantly drippinar with water, which hinders evaporation and prevents 
the elafioration of the sap. 
Early Forced Planted-out Trees. —These are growing, and must have 
a temperature at night of 55°, and 60° to 65° by day, with a rise of 5° to 
10° from sun heat. Syringe twice a day on oright days, but on dull 
days morning syringing with damping in the afternoon will be sufficient, 
veutilating freely on all favourable occasions, as a weakly growth cannot 
afterwards be made stout, nor thin foliage become thick, therefore seek a 
sturdy growth, well developel, thick leathery foliage from the com¬ 
mencement. A little partially decayed lumpy manure placed on the 
border will attract the roots to the surface whilst not depriving the soil 
of air, and through the mulching waterings in a tepid state should be 
given as necessary, but avoid over-watering in the early stages, especi¬ 
ally with liquid manure. 
Second Early Forced Trees. —Usually a house of trees in pots and 
another of plante<i-out trees meet the requirements, as the Fig produces 
two crops iu one season. Sometimes three crops are taken from pot trees, 
which is the surest way not to have early Figs the following year; in 
fact. Fig trees for very early forcing must not be burdened by a heavy 
second crop, but be given time to perfect the growths, and have a fair 
amount of rest before starting, otherwise they will cast all the first crop, 
and this is much the most valuable. Fig growers must not expect too 
much nor place too great reliance on pot trees for second crops, bat 
supplement them by others or by trees planted out. Therefore, where 
there is more than one Fig house a second may now be started, and 
these will give a first and second crop of Figs. The trees bearing on 
extension growths produce grand fruits, those having fruited and become 
bare being cut out so as to give place to sturdy well-furnished growths, 
thinly disposed and kept clean. The trees must be put in order and 
dressed with an insec’ioide, but this is best done directly the leaves are 
all down. Bring the border into a thorough state of moisture by re¬ 
peated supplies, if necessiry, of tepid water or liquid manure. Syringe 
the trees occasionallv, damping the paths twice a day. A temperature 
of 50° at night and 55° by day is sufficient to commence with, advancing 
to 65° from sun heat, ventilating freely on all favourable occasions. 
Cheeey House,—O f all fruit trees, next to the Apricot, the Cherry 
is the most impatient of heat in the early stages of growth, particularly 
so when the ventilation is indifferently provided. This is a vital point, 
therefore commence ventilating at 50°, allowing an increase of 15°, with 
proportionate ventilati n, closing the house at 60°, 45° being sufficient 
by day artificially, and 40° at night. The trees advanced slowly from 
Decern her are now rapidly unfolding their buds, those previously forced 
beiog in blossom, and will need attention in fertilising the flowers on 
fine days, using a camel’s hair brush. Where the flowers are not 
expanded it is well to fumigate the house so as to make sura that the 
trees are free from insects, repeating at intervals of a day or two. See 
that there is no deficiency of moisture in the border, giving a thorough 
supply of water when necessary. Trees in pots will require more 
frequent attention. Any alteration in the way of introducing fresh trees 
must be completed without delav, and taking precautionary measures, 
so that shading may be applied to such trees whenever sunshine is 
powerful, and in order to promote the re-establishment of such trees 
they should be lightly sprinkled more frequently and other surfaces 
moistened, but avoid saturating the soil. 
Melons.—A brisk bottom heat is necessary in the cultivation of 
early Melons, and it should be durable. Hot-water pipes are unquestion¬ 
ably the best, as they afford a regular and lasting heat, yet a good result 
can be had fr im fermenting material if due regard is paid to their 
preparation. Stable litter and an equal proportion of Oak or Beech 
leaves should be thrown together about a fortnight before they are 
required, thoroughly incorporating them, and if dry they should be 
moistened. In a few days it will be seen whether there is moisture 
enough to produce fermentation ; if so, turn the materials before 
violent heat is produced, outside to inside, and damping any dry 
material, but in case the material is not heated quickly it must be 
turned after a few days and receive water as required. In making 
hotbeds always select a dry site or employ a good layer of fargots 
for the foundation, taking care to make the bed large enough for the 
season ; 6 feet high at the back and 4 feet in front, with the material 
well beaten down, will not be too high. Place the frames on the ^d, 
and in four days or so level the bed if necessary by adding the requisite 
quantity of fr^-sh material, and place in the centre of each light about a 
barrowful of soil in the form of a flattened cone, the top ab mt 1 foot 
from the glass. When the heat does not exceed 85° to 90° place out a 
plant in the centre of each mound, p'-essing the soil firmly around the 
ball, taking care not to injure the stem, and a little dry soot drawn in a 
ring round each plant will protect it from slugs. The day temperature 
