February 11, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
99 
DRAINING POTS. 
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S IMPLE though this matter undoubtedly is, success or failure in 
the cultivation of plants grown in pots is largely dependent 
upon the manner in which the operation is performed. It is one 
of the first practices that a garden lad is initiated into, and when 
trained to perform it in an efficient manner a good groundwork is 
laid upon which to build up future successes as the young aspirant 
advances in his profession. The two cardinal points to be 
remembered are, to provide efficient drainage to allow superfluous 
water to pass quickly away, without restricting more than is neces¬ 
sary the amount of space available for holding the soil in which the 
plants are to be grown, as the great aim of all cultivators should be 
to obtain the best possible plant in whatever sized pot is used. 
All points considered broken pots are perhaps the best materials 
io use for drainage, and they have the advantage, in one sense, of 
being plentiful enough in most gardens. Where, however, there is 
a scarcity of these, cinders sifted into various sizes are an excellent 
substitute, especially for small pots, where only a small quantity 
of drainage is wanted. Quick-rooting plants seem to have a sur¬ 
prising partiality for this material ; wherever it has been employed 
for drainage I have invariably found, when turning the plants out 
of their pots, that large numbers of roofs had penetrated it. 
When preparing crocks for drainage a good quantity should be 
broken up moderately small, and then assorted into three sizes in 
the following way ;—Take three sieves, with 1 inch, half-inch, and 
quarter-inch meshes, place the one with the smallest meshes at 
the bottom, the next size above it, and the largest on the top. The 
broken potsherds should then be placed in the top sieve and be 
sifted, the smaller parts falling through the meshes into the next 
sized sieve, this in turn to be treated in a like manner, and that 
which falls through into the bottom one to be sifted as soon as a 
sufficient quantity has accumulated. Three useful sizes of potsherds 
are thus obtained. If space in the potting shed permits it, three 
spaces against tke walls should be partitioned off with boards to 
hold the prepared crocks, as potting operations are greatly facilitated 
by always having a stock in readiness, and the preparation of them 
can be carried on at odd times. The crock dust which falls through 
the smallest sieve I have for years found useful for mixing with 
many kinds of potting composts to keep them open, and I therefore 
advise that it should also be taken care of and stored in a large pot 
or box. 
The depth of drainage necessary for various sized pots varies 
according to the class of plants grown in them. For ordinary 
plants grown in pots ranging in size from 6 to 16 inches in 
diameter, if from one-fourth to one-third of the depth of the pot 
is filled with drainage it will be found sufficient; but in the case 
of such things as Alocasias, Marantas, and Anthuriums, unless they 
are grown in pans, which are more suitable for them, fully one-half 
the space ought to be taken up with drainage. When crocking 
very large pots, one or more small pots inverted and placed over the 
bottom economise crocks and lighten the weight of the combined 
bulk. It is important in the crocking of all pots that a large 
hollow potsherd be placed over the aperture at the bottom to 
allow the water to escape freely, and prevent smaller pieces from 
clogging the outlet. A layer of moderately large pieces should 
then be placed over this, and the remaining portion set apart for 
drainage, half filled with the largest sized materials already pre¬ 
pared, next a coating of a smaller size, this being finished off 
No. 607.—VoL. XXIV., Third Seeie.s. 
and made level with the smallest crocks. This forms a medium 
through which water gradually and evenly filters, and thus accom¬ 
plishes the object in view. For placing over the drainage before 
any compost is added, I prefer moss to all other materials where 
a lasting substance is needed, but in the case of plants potted 
annually spent Mushroom bed manure or leaves. 
In the growth of such plants as Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, 
Begonias, Dracaenas, and many other strong rooted plants, as well as 
some species of Palms, more drainage is often employed than is either 
necessary or beneficial. Any of the above plants or those of like 
nature when potted at this time of the year in 5-inch pots or any 
size below, only require one crock to be used, with a little rough 
material placed over it. This allows the largest possible space in each 
sized pot for nutritious food, and enables the cultivator to produce 
large plants in relatively small pots, which is generally the aim of 
plant growers who grow the subjects named in large quantities for 
decorative work. I am prepared to find that many will not agree 
with me on this point, but that it can be done may be at any time 
demonstrated by a walk round Covent Garden, and an inspection 
made of the splendid materials there on view, grown by men who 
never think of making a more elaborate business of draining small 
pots than placing a single crock at the bottom. I noticed that fact 
a long time ago, and have since been gradually working in the 
same direction, and I am confident that those who give the 
matter a fair trial will find the departure a distinct gain ; but let it 
be clearly understood that it is only for quick growing plants or 
strong rooted ones in small pots, that I recommend this practice to 
be adopted.—D. __ 
CULTURE OF THE CARROT. 
The Carrot is a very important vegetable, being in daily demand 
for culinary purposes in most gentlemen’s kitchens, and clean shapely 
roots are indispensable in collections of vegetables staged on the 
exhibition table. In order to obtain produce of the best quality— 
straight, clean, and smooth-skinned roots—it is necessary that the 
ground intended for the crop should be in good heart—that is, 
o£ average fertility and sweet, being perfectly free from rank 
matter resulting from laying on heavy dressings of rich farmyard 
manure shortly before sowing the seed, a circumstance which is 
obviously unfavourable to the production and development of clean 
high-quality roots of any description. Indeed, a large percentage 
of the roots resulting from ground so manured will be forked and 
coarse in appearance. The Carrot will do well in any deep, light, 
and fairly rich soil, but a deep sandy loam is most suitable. It is 
important to the production of clean handsome roots that the soil 
should be of an open nature and free from wireworms. 
In preparing the ground for this and many other crops it is 
advisable that dressings of manure should be trenched or deeply 
dug into the ground as soon as possible after th'^ removal of the 
previous crop in the autyimn. This allows time for the proper 
decomposition, and the absorption of the ammonia by the soil. 
Lime, potash, soda, chloride of sodium, or common salt, and a 
surface dressing of fresh soot may be applied with advantage to 
the ground. 
If the soil is of a stiff, cold nature let it be ridged in the autumn, 
so as to expose it to the weather until the following March, when 
advantage should be taken of dry weather to level the ridges, 
adding thereto leaf mould, wood ashes, coal ashes, burnt earth, 
sand, or other light material that may be at hand. The ground 
having been levelled, trodden, and raked with a coarse rake, 
enough of fresh soot should be strewn over the surface to discolour 
it before drawing the drills. These should be from 1 to 2 inches 
deep, 1 foot asunder for the Nantes Horn type, allowing 3 inches 
and 6 inches more respectively between the rows of James’ Inter¬ 
mediate and the Long Red Surrey and allied varieties requiring 
space. Sow the seed thinly in the drills, afterwards closing the 
soil in over it with the feet, treading and raking it level. 
No. 226.3.— VoL. LXXXVI., Old Series. 
