100 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 11, 1892. 
The hist sowing out of doors should be made as early in 
February as the soil will work or may le trodden on without 
its sticking to one’s boots. Sow Nantes Horn or other approved 
early variety in a dry rather than damp situation, in a border in 
front of a wall or fence having a south or west aspect; the 
produce resulting from this sowing will continue the supply of 
young Carrots previously obtained fiom sowings made in pots and 
frames on hotbeds about Christmas and again a fortnight or three 
weeks later. Jilake a second sowing of the same variety and James’ 
Intermediate about three weeks later, and a third in the middle or 
end of June, according as the district is late or early, should be 
made for drawing young during the autumn and early winter 
months. From the beginning to the middle of March make the 
general sowing, consisting of such excellent varieties as Veitch’s 
Matchless and Long Red Surrey, mixing the seed with dry sand 
betore sowing. 
AVhen the plants are a couple of inches high thin them, the 
Nantes Horn and allied varieties to 2 inches from plant to plant 
in the rows, afterwards drawing every alternate plant when fit and 
as required for use, giving a distance of from 6 to 9 inches between 
the plants of the other varieties indicated. Take advantage of 
showery weather to do this work, pulling up at the same time the 
weeds which are sure to come up with the Carrots. 
If extra fine specimens of Carrots and Parsnips are desired, 
make holes about 18 inches de3p in rows the same distance apart 
and at 15 inches asunder in the rows in ground prepared as 
described, and fill these with a compost of three parts light sandy 
loam and one of leaf mould and wood ashes, enriched by the 
addition of an 8-inch potful of Thomson’s A^ine and plant manure 
and a like quantity of fresh soot, the whole being passed through 
a quarter inch mesh sieve before being deposited in the holes. 
This having been made moderately firm with a rammer, sow three 
or four seeds in each hole, covering with some of the same compost, 
and in due time thin the young plants to one in each hole. 
The application of water to the roots during the growing 
season must be determined by the character of the soil and that 
of the weather prevailing at the time. As a rule, the seed sown 
in June requires to be frequently watered through a rosed can 
from the time the seed is sown until the crop is well advanced, 
this in order to ensure the seed vegetating regularly, and in due 
time to obtain a good crisp growth. Stir the soil to the depth of 
between 1 and 2 inches between the rows several times during the 
summer, this as much with a view to accelerating growth in the 
plants as destroying weeds. The best and most natural way to 
store Carrots is to take them up carefully with the assistance of a 
five-tined fork early in November, lifting the roots entire, cutting 
the tops off close to the crown, and then placing three or four 
rows of roots perpendicularly in a trench 15 to 18 inches deep and 
about the same width, covering these with soil excavated to the 
depth and width indicated, into which a second lot of roots are 
placed ; thus continuing the operation until the roots are all 
stored, burying the crowns about 1 inch under the surface of 
the soil. 
A situation where water is not likely to accumulate should be 
chosen for storing Carrots and Beetroot. Roots stored in the 
manner described are always fresher in colour and crisper than 
those stored in dry sand and sheds. 
The remarks on the culture of the main crop of Carrots are 
equally applicable to the treatment of Parsnips.—H. AA’^. AVaet, 
Longford Castle. 
CYANOPIIYLLUM MAGNIFiCUM. 
This is essentially a fine-foliage plant, its panicles of small 
flowers being very insignificant. As its name implies, it is magnifi¬ 
cent when well grown. Its leaves are broadly ovate, tapering to a 
fine point at their apex, and arranged on a moderately stout stem. 
A strong-growing plant produces leaves 2 to 3 feet in length, and 
about a third of the same in breadth. 
In a moist stove it grows rapidly when plenty of root room is 
afforded. AA'’e grow ours in light fibrous peat and silver sand only 
with very satisfactory results. Some growers add leaf mould to 
the foregoing with apparently good results. Dryness at the root is 
injurious, and often fatal to this plant. It is very sensitive to any 
change in the temperature and humidity of its surroundings, and 
therefore of no great value beyond the precincts of the house in 
which it grows. I have used it for furnishing for a night now 
and again without any apparent ill resulting ; but this cannot be 
practised with impunity, as my experience has repeatedly taught. 
In summer it should be afforded some shading, much direct sun¬ 
shine being inimical to the beautiful velvety green texture of its 
leaves. 
It can be increased in various ways. For commercial purposes 
it is chiefly propagated from eyes. AVhen raised in this manner it 
is desirable to preserve a leaf or part of a leaf attached to the eye. 
Cuttings made of side growths strike well, and the top can be cut 
partly through, in the same manner as Dracaenas, and mossed. 
The large tops can also be rooted as cuttings where a sufficiently 
roomy case exists. 
At no time should they be allowed to become root-bound, 
unless feeding is resorted to, a starved Cyanophyllum being a most 
miserable object. It is subject to the attacks of most insect pests, 
which are best removed by sponging. Ants are partial to this 
plant, often making their nests in its pot. These are best destroyed 
by a syrup made with one pint of water, quarter of a pound sugar, 
and 1 oz. of arsenic, boiled down to half its bulk, and placed on 
small saucers in their runs. This syrup is very poisonous. 
—AA''. R. AVilliams, Great Marlow. 
NOTES ON PLANTS. 
Double Zonal Pelargonium Hermine, —This is a semi¬ 
double pure white variety, which from the size of the individual 
pips and the intrinsic beauty of the flowers, ought to insure for 
this new form a large circle of admirers. During summer it 
mignt be taken as the white counterpart of Raspail, so like the 
appearance of that universal favourite is it; but, unfortunately, 
during the winter months I do not find it so free. At the same 
time it is but fair to say that the plants I have were cut over for 
cuttings in autumn, so that, perhaps, it is less wonderful that it 
should flower sparingly than that it should flower at all. It is a 
very great advance on any other white variety, and was distributed 
by Rozain in 18C0. 
Chrysanthemum Golden Star. —All the single Chrysanthe¬ 
mums I have grown have been discarded save Miss M. Anderson 
after the first trial. Golden Star I had this year for the first time, 
and barring its somewhat tall habit of growth, it has everything 
about it that constitutes a “ single ” worth growing. Purveyors 
of much flower for cutting would do well to secure this, as it is 
a very charming sort, and withal late, which is a feature in its 
favour. 
Montbretias. —I am inclined to think that some of the older 
forms of these are better in some respects thin the newer ones. 
For example, we may take these three as being among the very 
best of decorative sorts—viz., M. crocosmsefolia, M. Gerbe d’Or 
(sometimes sold as Golden Sheaf), a most lovely plant, and M. 
elegans, another very graceful and pretty form. Those who have 
or are able to get a stock of these need have no hankering after 
newer and more expensive sorts. I am not quite sure as to the 
hardiness of the two latter, but trust that the present season will 
show us whether they are. It is curious how apt we are to run 
after newer and more expensive plants, thinking they are the best. 
Some of my friends who have seen our Montbretias, in order to 
be up to date have ordered the 'newer forms, and left these out. 
Just in the same way one finds some of the best decorative 
Gladiolus altogether unrepresented in gardens, quite possibly 
because they happen to be old and easy to purchase in comparison 
with newer sorts. 
Narcissus princeps. —This sort is, of course, not nearly so 
fine as Emperor, to which, however, it bears some resemblance. 
At the same time, for early forcing and on account of the cheap¬ 
ness—good flowering bulbs can be bought at least one-twelfth the 
figure of Emperor—the princeps Daffodil is, perhaps, quite as 
valuable as the other. I have not found Emperor do well when 
forced ; but when the plant has plenty of time to come on in a 
greenhouse the flowers are superb. Princeps, on the other hand, is 
about as fine when brought on rapidly as if left to move more 
slowly. The bulbs increase very rapidly, which is another point in 
its favour ; and, as Daffodils grown at home under judicious treat¬ 
ment do about as well as those which are imported, this is also a 
point in its favour. 
Narcissus poeticus ornatus. —There is one very noticeable 
defect in this lovely white form, but whether it is a defect in the 
treatment or not I do not know. I refer to the exceedingly small 
number of roots made when cultivated in pots. On examining the 
plants to-day, preparatory to lifting them from their ash bed 
out of doors, I found hardly any roots had been produced. 
N. poeticus, on the other hand, had quite an embarrassing quantity 
of roots, not the soil only being full, but they had extended deep 
into the plunging material, and many of them upwards among the 
same. Emperor and Horsfieldi were also extremely well rooted. 
As this is by no means the first time I have noted this sparse root¬ 
ing propensity of ornatus, and as I have 1000 selected roots in 
pots, the question is worth elucidating. The probable reason 
appears to be a too late season of potting. The bulbs in question 
1 were Dutch grown, and they were not received until September 
