140 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Febriiary 15 , 1302. 
case, by too free applications of water to the soil too soon 
after the potting is completed. The subject will be resumed. 
—H. Dunkin. 
NOTES ON APPLES. 
Rouge de Stettin, syn. “ Red Bietigiieimer? ”—This Apple, 
which in the catalogue of fruits of the Royal Horticultural 
Society of 1842 is given a synonym of the Rostocker ; by Robert 
Hogg in the “ British Pomology ” of 1851 as a synonym of 
Rostocker, Bodickheimer and other synonyms ; by Andre Leroy 
as identical with Rostocker, Rother Bietigheimer, Bodickheimer 
and other synonyms ; by Simon Louis as a synonym of Rother 
Bietigheimer Rostocker and fourteen other synonyms appears now 
to be introduced as the “ Red Bietigheimer ” without any history 
or the synonyms. 
The “ Rostocker,” “ Rouge de Stettin,” “ Red Bietigheimer ” 
is said by Andr^ Leroy to have been known in Glermany under the 
name of Vineuse Rouge in 1598, and by another German pomologist 
under the name of Rouge de Stettin in 1776, but it was not known 
to French pomologists until exhibited in Paris in 1867. He classes 
it as a popular and well known German orchard Apple. In 
the “ British Pomology,” Robert Hogg, 1851, the “ Rostocker ” is 
described as “ a favourite German Apple of first-rate quality for 
culinary purposes very much resembling our Norfolk Beefing.” 
In the “Guide Pratique” of Simon Louis the “Rouge de 
Stettin,” “ Rostocker,” “ Red Bietigheimer,” is described as a 
second-class market fruit. The Royal Horticultural Society’s 
Catalogue of 1842 the “ Rostocker ” syn. “ Stetting Rouge ” is 
described as resembling “ Norfolk Beefing,” and a kitchen Apple of 
first-rate quality. The Rother Bietigheimer is not classed as a 
synonym, but as a kitchen Apple of good quality from November 
to February. 
The “ Rostocker ” has been known in this nursery for more 
than forty years, but it has never been considered as more worthy 
than other English Apples. As the “Red Bietigheimer” appears 
to be reintroduced, with a very good character and without 
synonyms, it is as well that the history of the sort should be 
known ; it is hardly likely that the “ Rostocker ” or “ Red Bietig¬ 
heimer ” would have been overlooked in England during the long 
period that it has been grown. At all events the name under which 
it has been known should accompany the name selected for its 
resuscitation in this country. 
Rbinette Baumann. 
“ Andre Leroy,” a large fruit of second class quality ; dry, 
slightly perfumed, sweet. “Jan. Mars. Le Verger,” edited by 
M. Mas. Beginning and duration of winter ; flesh firm, sugary, 
perfumed ; of excellent quality. 
“ The Apple and its varieties,” Robert Hogg, 1851. A small 
dessert Apple of second-rate quality ; oblate shape ; colour red ; 
in use from December to March ; not apt to shrivel. Is this 
Apple worth adding to our numerous varieties ? 
Wealthy. 
“ Fruits and Fruit Trees of America.” A. J. Downing, 1869. 
“A new variety, originated by Peter M. Gideon, 1860. Fruit, 
medium oblate or roundish oblate. Flesh, white stained with red ; 
tender, juicy, lively vinous subacid; very good. December, 
February.” In the same work the flavour of the fruit of the 
“ Kentish ” Pippin, syn. Vaun’s Pippin, is described in nearly the 
same terms, and is applied to hundreds of other varieties. 
Cooking Tests. 
Perhaps the following experience on cooking Apples of the 
varieties, and on the dates named, may not be unacceptable :— 
Jan. 7th, 1890.— Annie Elizabeth, a tasteless, and insipid cooking 
Apple. 
Jan. 13th.— Betty Geeson, flat, very little juice. 
Jan. 2l8t.— Bramley's Seedling, a very good cooking Apple, 
pleasantly acid. 
Feb. 7th.— Belle de Pontoise, a very good cooking Apple indeed. 
Feb. 14th.— Calville Blanche, an excellent cooking Apple. 
March 1st.— Wadhurst Pippin, a very good cooking Apple. 
March 7th.— Rhode Island Greening, a good but flat cooking 
Apple. 
March 24th.— Gooseberry Apple, very good indeed. 
March 30 th.— Dunielow's Seedling, very good indeed. 
April 7th — Calville St. Sauveur, very good. 
April 19th.— Bramley's Seedling, still good. 
May 7th.— Striped Beefing, very good. 
Jan. 9th, 1892.— Hollandbury, a pleasant cooking Apple, very 
sweet, but not much flavour. 
Jan. 13th.— Flower of Herts, a very good cooking Apple, sub¬ 
acid ; pulp does not diminish in cooking.—T. Francis Rivers. 
HERBACEOUS PLANT BORDERS. 
Many of the occupants of these require to be taken up, divided, 
and replanted in good fresh soil every third or fourth year, or they 
fail to grow and flower strongly. When left undisturbed they 
soon exhaust the soil for a good distance around them, and during 
dry seasons especially are most disappointing. Breaking up or 
dividing the old stools is also advisable, in order to reduce the 
number of shoots that the stronger growers are apt to form ; 
quality, not quantity, being, or ought to be, the principal con¬ 
sideration. Phloxes, Sunflowers, Spiraeas, Heleniums, Pyrethrums, 
and Delphiniums are among the first to need dividing and replant¬ 
ing, and a considerable number of other dwarfer growers would 
also be greatly improved by the process. 
A dry mild time during February is perhaps the best period of 
year for re-arranging herbaceous borders, as all are commencing to 
grow, while the bulbous section will also be showing well through 
the soil. The latter class, including Daffodils, may safely be lifted, 
and carefuhy, but not severely, divided now, and being at once 
replanted at the same depth as before there will be no loss of 
flowers this spring, probably they will flower even better next 
season. Before replanting the various divisions, or whole clumps 
as the case may be, break up the soil to a good depth, and freely 
mix with it either well decayed manure or good leaf soil. Plant 
firmly, and keep the clumps well down into the soil, exposed roots 
being too often seen. Finish off with a good mulch of leaf soil, 
short manure, or cocoa-nut fibre refuse. 
The least that can be done towards preparing herbaceous 
borders for the coming season is to rake back the soil from about 
the stronger growers, and after giving a liberal top-dressing of 
decayed manure or leaf soil, return it to its original position. 
Later on the shoots where at all crowded should be freely 
thinned. 
Slugs, though not so abundant this year as usual, may yet 
prove troublesome. Trapping with slates laid on the ground, or 
with heaps of Broccoli leaves, brewer’s grains, or bran and sugar, 
is the best way out of the difficulty, though much may be done by 
using fine ashes and soot freely about the plants, a light surfacing 
of malt or kiln dust acting both as a fertiliser and deterrent of 
slugs. The latter have a great partiality for Pyrethrums, and the 
clumps of these left in the open ground must be well sooted over, 
otherwise not a shoot will be left. Pyrethrums wintered in pots 
under glass ought to be early planted out, and taken good care of 
subsequently. 
February is usually a good time to plant Ranunculus, and also to 
take up, divide, and replant the hardier types of Gladioli; and a 
few of the choicer varieties, the corms of which were stored away 
in boxes, might also be started singly in 4-inch or slightly larger 
pots, using light loamy compost and plunging in ashes or cocoa-nut 
fibre refuse. Being planted out in the mixed border before they 
become root-bound some extra early spikes of flower will result. 
From the middle to the end of March is a good time to plant 
out the bulk of the roots. 
Frosts have not been very destructive among the plants of 
Carnations and Picotees in the open borders, and if they have been 
well protected from ground game and slugs a good display of 
bloom ought to be had this season. The most that can be done at 
present is to distribute a little soot or some other mild fertiliser 
among the rows, and to lightly stir it in with flat hoes. Any 
cuttings or layered plants in small pots and not intended for 
flowering in larger sizes ought to be early planted out, or the 
flower spikes will be prematurely formed and weakly. 
Seedlings of last year’s raising and duly transferred to the 
open borders will most probably flower so freely that it will be 
impossible to procure either cuttings or layers from most of them. 
As a consequence more seedlings will have to be raised this spring 
to take the place of those which it will no longer pay to retain. A 
single packet of seed will usually give enough plants and a sufficient 
variety for medium sized and small gardens ; but for larger places, 
or where extra large quantities of cut flowers are needed, three or 
four packets are none too many. Order the best border varieties, 
and a bed of the Scarlet Grenadier would give useful flowers 
of one colour. The new Marguerite or Margaret strains, these 
flowering the same season as raised, are better adapted for pot 
culture than for borders, though the plants are nearly or quite 
as hardy as the ordinary border varieties. 
In each case late sowing is a mistake, those raised and planted 
out early where they are to flower giving by far the best results. 
If the seed is sown now thinly in boxes the plants may eventually 
be transplanted direct from these to the open borders ; but if 
either pots or pans are used, pricking out or potting will have 
eventually to be resorted to. Sow in light sandy soil, give a gentle 
watering, place in gentle heat, and cover with squares of glass. 
Keep moist and well shaded till the seed germinates, and there 
