152 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 26, 1892. 
Trees Started Early in Feiruary .—In the house started this month 
the flowers are well advanced, and should be closely examined for 
aphides. If any are present fumigate, having the trees dry, and repeat it 
on two or three consecutive evenings. This will keep the trees free from 
the pests until the flowering is over. When the anthers show clear of 
the corollas cease syringing, maintaining a genial condition of the atmo¬ 
sphere by damping available surfaces in the morning and early after¬ 
noon. Turn on the heat in the morning to secure and keep a tempera¬ 
ture of 50° by day, ventilating from 55°, allowing an advance to 60° or 
65° with a free circulation of air, employing fire heat only at night to 
keep the temperature between 40° and 45°. Where there is a great 
show of blossom remove that on the under side of the shoots. Supply 
tepid water to the border if it be in need of moisture. 
Houses to Afford Fruit in Late July and Early August .—These 
should be closed early in March, syringing twice a day until the 
buds show colour, when it should cease. Maintain a temperature of 50° 
by day, and with ventilation from that point an advance may be 
allowed from sun heat to 65° ; 40° to 45° is ample at night. If the border 
is at all dry afford a thorough supply of water, repeating as necessary. 
Where the blossom buds are superabundant remove those on the under 
side at the back of the shoots, drawing the hand the reverse way of the 
growths. Fumigate if there be the least trace of aphides. 
Latest Houses .—These are often unheated and have the roof lights 
fixed, both great mistakes, as the buds swell early, and there is little 
more safety for the blossoms in a cold wet spring than outdoors. With 
the roof lights off the buds are quite dormant, and they need not be re¬ 
placed until the buds commence swelling freely. Under fixed roofs 
ventilate freely, and where there is heat merely exclude frost. Heat is 
essential in cold localities, as the blossom is not safe from spring frosts 
and the fruit does not ripen perfectly if the season be cold and sunless. 
Besides, a gentle heat during flowering does much towards securing a 
good set, and in autumn artificial heat is sometimes necessary to ripen 
the fruit and wood. Indeed, the latest varieties cannot be depended on 
to produce good fruit in cold localities without aid in backward seasons, 
and some of the latest sorts are noble in appearance, good in quality, a 
gentle heat making great difference in the fruit as regards its 
thorough ripening. See that the borders are well supplied with 
moisture. Those having been exposed are thoroughly moistened through 
to the drainage and will not require watering until the fruit is advanced 
in swelling, besides such trees never cast their buds when they should be 
developing their flowers. 
THE KITCHEN GAKDEN. 
Early Celery. —If Celery is wanted for the early shows no time 
should be lost in sowing seed of one of the large white forms, notably 
Wright’s Giant White, and it is also advisable, in many instances, to 
raise an early batch of plants to blanch for home consumption in 
September. Sandringham Dwarf White, White Gem, and Veitch’s 
Superb White are among the most reliable of the white varieties, Veitch’s 
Early Rose being also exceptionally good for the earliest crops. Sow the 
seed somewhat thinly in pans of fine soil, plunge or set on a brisk hot¬ 
bed in preference to dry warm stages, cover with glass, shade heavily, 
and keep uniformly moist till the seed has germinated. A shelf in a well- 
heated house is the best place for the plants till they are large enough 
to prick out into boxes of good soil, and subsequently they must be kept 
growing steadily and sturdily, a check from sudden exposure to low 
temperatures, or from dryness and poverty at the roots, usually having 
the effect of causing premature bolting. 
Leeks. —Seed of the Lyon or other large forms of Leek is usually 
sown by the most successful exhibitors early in February, and in heat, 
the plants from first to last being treated very much as Celery is grown 
to perfection. If required extra fine for home consumption it is also 
advisable to raise sufficient plants early and in beat, ultimately 
pricking these out in boxes or frames, and moving carefully from these 
into well prepared trenches. If only wanted for flavouring soups 
there is no need to take so much trouble either with the raising or after 
treatment of the plants. Take the first favourable opportunity of sowing 
seed on an open border, and if the seedlings are not unduly crowded 
they, when strong enough, may be planted direct where they are to 
grow. 
Early Turnips. —Turnips are already becoming scarce. They 
■were none too plentiful in the autumn, and those left on the ground 
were badly injured by severe frosts. In many cases, therefore, it may 
be advisable to forward a few dozen bunches under glass. They are not 
amenable to hard forcing, but the Early Milan can be forwarded con¬ 
siderably in frames with or without the assistance of a mild hotbed. 
Make the soil somewhat firm, and sow the seed thinly and broadcast, 
covering with more sifted soil. Keep the frame close and dark till the 
seedlings appear, then admit all the light possible, also giving air freely, 
drawing off the lights whenever the weather is mild. If the mistake is 
made of sowing the seed too thickly the plants must be thinned early. 
Leave them not less than 3 inches apart, and commence drawing for use 
directly the forwardest roots are near the size of a crown piece in diameter, 
the rest being greatly benefited by this early removal. Frames being 
scarce, a pinch of seed might be sown thinly along the light fronts of 
unheated or not forced Peach houses and fruit cases, good early dishes 
of Turnips being sometimes had from these positions without much 
detriment to the regular occupants of the borders. Rough frames could 
also be constructed on a warm border with the aid of boards and stakes, 
these with mats thrown over during cold nights serving to protect and 
forward Turnips considerably. Unless some such protection can be 
afforded, it is useless to sow Turnip seed in the open before the middle 
of March. 
Parsnips. —If extra fine roots are required early in the season, seed 
ought to be sown in February or as early as the state of ground permits 
March, but for home consumption smaller roots are preferable, they 
also keeping best. For the former the ground should be deeply worked, 
good solid manure being buried at the bottom of the second spit or where 
the tap roots only will reach it. Early contact with solid manure or even 
lumps of soil is apt to cause forking, and Parsnips for home use may 
well, therefore, be sown on ground that was well manured for a previous 
crop and deeply dug. Nor is it advisable to sow seed much before the 
end of March, and if the ground cannot be got into a finely divided 
state to a good depth so early as that even, defer sowing till April. In 
each and every case the drills may be drawn 15 inches apart, thinning 
the plants if large roots are desired the most freely. The Student is a 
very good variety for all purposes. 
Spring Cabbage. —These have been badly cut in the colder posi¬ 
tions, but there are far more promising breadths of plants to be seen 
than w'as the case last February. They cannot well be had too early, 
the most forward hearts frequently being more appreciated than any 
sent to the table during the rest of the season. If there are any weeds 
among the plants clear the ground of these, and then give a good surface 
dressing of soot or some kind of special manure, well stirring it in to 
the surface of the soil with flat hoes, and directly this is washed down 
to the roots more rapid growth of the plants will result. If the plants 
are too tall draw the soil up to them on both sides, and into the 
furrows thus formed midway between the rows quite strong liquid 
manure or sewage may safely and advantageously be poured. Should 
there be any blanks in the rows make these good from the seed beds, a 
few more rows being also put out if there are plants suflScient for it. 
Should the losses during the winter have been very heavy sow seed of a 
small quick growing variety, Ellam’s Dwarf, for instance, in pans or a 
box of soil, and place in gentle heat to germinate. Keep the seedlings 
growing steadily, a warm shelf being a good place for them, and early 
prick out in boxes or pot off, the aim being to get them out into the 
open ground as quickly as possible consistent with safety. It should be 
remembered that early and good hearts can be had by growing the 
plants in rough frames or under handlights, like Cauliflowers are 
forwarded, and in time of scarcity they pay well for the trouble. 
Parsley. —As usual the choicer strains have fared badly during the 
winter, and Parsley is nearly as scarce as at this date last year. It is 
weary work waiting for the plants raised in the open ground to yield 
abundance of strong leaves, and such is the demand for Parsley that 
something ought in many cases to be done towards forwarding a fresh 
supply. Any roots that have escaped may safely be lifted and gently 
forced, either in boxes or on mild hotbeds in frames ; and a number of 
seedlings ought also to be raised in heat. If a frame can be spared set 
this on a mild hotbed. Prepare as for Carrots, sow the seed thinly in 
drills 5 inches apart, and keep close and warm till the seedlings appear. 
Force gently and early thin, dibbling the thinnings out on a warm 
border—the surest method of forming a good bed of Parsley. Those 
left in the frame will grow strongly and yield abundance of fine 
leaves. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Liliums .—The earliest plants of L. Harris! are advancing rapidly. 
Watch for aphides, and fumigate at once if they appear, as if they are 
allowed to become established they quickly injure the foliage and ruin 
the plants. As soon as the flower buds are visible give them a tempera¬ 
ture of 50° to 55°. If hurried before they show bloom they run up tall. 
Keep later plants close to the glass and perfectly cool. Bulbs of 
L. eximium that were potted some time ago and kept in a cool house 
will be ready for the plunging material to be removed. If any were 
placed outside and covered they must be protected directly they display 
signs of coming through, or they may be damaged by frost. It is a good 
plan to place them in frames where they can be protected from frost. 
All in active growth should have a little artificial manure applied to the 
surface of the soil. 
ImantopTiyllums (Clivias ').—For purposes of decoration these are 
most useful in from 6 to 8-inch pots. Large plants, after they are forced 
into bloom, may be divided and potted singly in fibry loam, sand, and 
one-seventh of manure. After potting place them in a vinery so that 
they will start into growth. Good varieties as they come into flower 
should be fertilised, and seed saved to increase the stock. Propagation 
by suckers is a slow process. When the seed is ripe it must be dried 
before it is sown or it will decay. A good stock of the old miniatum 
will be found invaluable during the winter and spring ; they are easily 
brought into flower in Peach houses and vineries that have been started. 
Suckers root freely even if they have no roots attached to them. 
Salvia gesnerceflora .—Plants that have been kept cool will be show¬ 
ing their flowers ; these may be advanced considerably by placing them 
where the temperature will not fall below 45° or 50°. This variety is 
useful not only for the conservatory but for cutting, and can be brought 
into flower in succession. When large plants are needed for another 
year cuttings may be inserted as soon as growing ends that are not 
showing flower can be detected. 
Chrysanthemims .—Those intended for large blooms and rooted in 
small pots under cool treatment will be sturdy plants. These may be 
placed into 5-inch pots and arranged close to the glass, where they can 
have air freely when the weather is favourable. Care should be taken 
to keep them safe from frost. Those intended for bushes must have 
their points removed to induce them to branch. For decorative pur 
