154 
JOURN iL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
February 25, 1892. 
LOW Temperatures (J’. T. .17.)—There is mucli uncertainty about 
the records of very low temperatures, as thermometers vary greatly, and 
unless carefully tested occasionally they are very misleading. You will 
see in our Notes and Gleanings this week a paragraph from a corre¬ 
spondent, stating that the lowest temperature observed was 7° below 
zero, and lower temperatures have been recorded in past years. 
Gloxinia Leaves Diseased (T. L .').—The leaves are “ rusted,” 
as the result of some sudden check, the fungus being an accompaniment 
only. Early started plants are very liable to have their young leaves 
browned, but fresh growth usually comes all right after the weather 
becomes warm and settled. Gloxinias being rather impatient of sudden 
atmospheric changes. There is no remedy beyond removing the affected 
leaves and burning them, maintaining a moist atmosphere without 
wetting the foliage ; the plants then soon oirtgrow the disease. 
Painting’ Hot-water Pipes (7?. M.'). —We know of no better 
mixture for painting hot-water pipes with than lamp black and boiled 
linseed oil. If mixed thin you can apply it with a brush. A much 
quicker process is to take a piece of old canvas, as much as a man can 
conveniently hold in his hand, and dip it into the paint and rub it well 
into the pipes. This is rather a dirty plan, and some might object to it 
on that account ; but the work can be done quite as well as with a 
brush ; besides, the under sides of the pipes cannot always be reached 
with a brush. 
Steplianotls (N. B. G.). —You had better start your plant in heat 
without further delay. If you have during the past month or two kept 
the plant drier and cooler than an ordinary stove temperature it will 
soon be excited into growth if introduced into the stove. If started 
now an ordinary stove temperature will suffice, and it is always wise to 
start even a little too early than to push the plant forward in too brisk 
heat. Should your plant during the month of June be developing too 
rapidly you can easily retard it by placing it in a lower temperature ; 
this, when time will allow, is an advantage, for the flowers will possess 
more substance, and be much larger and more highly scented than if 
forced out in sharp brisk moist heat. 
Chemical manure for mixing with Soli for Cucumbers 
(N. G. 72.).—All the advertised fertilisers are useful, and would answer 
your purpose, if the instructions are followed. For safety against eel worms 
we know nothing better than mixing the wood ashes wiih the “ heated 
turf,” omitting the manure and half-decayed leaves, relying on feeding 
by the surface. There is no good whatever in submitting loam without 
an analysis, and then the need of chemicals or otherwise is not very 
apparent ; but adding horse droppings and half-decayed leaves to the 
common garden soil would improve it for Tomatoes, and may be all that 
is required, with judicious top-dressings. It is usual, however, to add 
some chemical manure to the soil. Each of the numerous mixtures 
advertised has some special merit. 
Tomatoes for Xndoor and Outdoor Culture (77. T. II.') —Of 
the varieties you name Conqueror is a large early red variety, ribbed 
yet handsome, and very prolific. It is hardier and a freer setter 
than Hathaway’s Excelsior, but this is more handsome, less ribbed, 
smooth in outline, and a great cropper under favourable conditions. 
Ham Green Favourite may be said to have taken the foremost place 
among Tomatoes for its free cropping properties and general usefulness, 
the fruit being of medium size, smooth, handsome, and the colour a full 
Tomato red ; the plant is free and robust in growth, with large leaves, 
setting freely, and not liable to become di.seased, though that largely 
depends on culture, climatic conditions, and soil. Conqueror seems to 
be the variety you have had beiore, and it is good for the purposes you 
require ; but if you need a handsomer variety Ham Green Favourite 
would probably meet your views. 
Cleaning Stone Pillars (6'. W. G.).- —You will find nothing better 
than muriatic acid for cleansing your stone pillars. The acid should be 
diluted with water, but if the green has become thoroughly established 
on the stone you had better use the acid almost pure at first, which will 
destroy the whole of the green, and the pillars in a few minutes can be 
washed white. If the pillars are not very badly affected equal parts of 
the acid and water will clean them thoroughly ; but this entirely depends 
upon the stone, whether of a hard or soft material. If hard the acid 
must be used stronger than is necessary when the stone is of a soft 
nature. The diluted acid can be applied with an old scrubbing brush, 
but care must be taken that it does not get upon your clothes, or it will 
burn and destroy them. Chloride of lime mixed with water will also 
clean stone, but when it is of a hard nature it is not so effectual, besides 
leaving an unpleasant smell for days afterwards, which is not the case 
with muriatic acid. 
Parmyard IVIanure (7’. P .).—To your question “ What do we gain 
by the application of farmyard manure ? ” our reply is. Better crops of 
everything, unless the soil is rich enough for supporting a maximum 
yield. Good and well prepared farmyard manure contains practically 
all that is needed for the support of crops, but there is as much difference 
in the value of manure heaps as between greasy dish-washings and good 
beef tea. If the ga.ses generated in manure heaps are dissipated in the 
atmosphere and the liquid portion permitted to escape to the drains the 
chief manorial virtues are W'asted, and what remains is little more than a 
husk without kernel. You next ask “ If farmyard manure has any 
disadvantages ? ” Intelligently used it has none, but anything that is 
good in itself if used in excess—the best of food, for instance—becomes 
more or less injurious. You have probably heard of the reply that was 
once given by the owner of a very productive garden who was asked 
what kind of manure he used ; the reply was short but significant, a, 
paraphrase from the remark of a famous painter—'• Brains.” Think 
it over. 
Pear, Huyshe's Prince Consort (F. J7. J/.).—The Pear to which 
you refer, and which you cannot find, is thus described in the “Fruit 
Manual” under the name of Huyshe’s Prince Consort. “Fruit, very 
large ; oblong, uneven and bossed in its outline. Skin, grass-green, 
which it frequently retains, even when ripe, but becoming sometimes- 
yellowish green ; it is thickly covered with large russet dots, which 
round the stalk are so dense as to form a russet patch. Eye, rather 
small and open, set in a pretty deep and uneven basin. Stalk, an inch 
long, stout and woody, inserted in a line with the axis of the fruit in a. 
small cavity. Flesh, yellowish, with a greenish tinge, melting, but not 
buttery, being rather crisp, very juicy, sweet and vinous, with a very 
powerful and peculiar flavour unlike any other Pear. A delicious Pear,, 
of first-rate quality ; ripe in the end of November. Eaised by the 
Rev. John Huyshe, of Clysthydon, Devon, from Beurrfi d’Aremberg 
fertilised by Passe Colmar.” 
D-warf versus Standard Fruit Trees (H. G). —The chief merits 
of dwarf trees are that they are under the eye of the cultivator, entirely 
within control, produce fruit earlier, and the finest fruit in the least¬ 
time. Standard trees are less in first cost, require less attention and 
management, and occupy the ground without profit till the dwarf trees 
have more than repaid the extra outlay. Dwarf trees become remunera¬ 
tive about the third year, standard trees about the seventh year, but the 
returns are widely different, as there is the produce of 1210 trees on the. 
dwarfing plan to set against the produce o'" seventy-five standard trees 
on the acre of ground. That makes all the difference—the first seven, 
years of remunerative bearing of dwarf trees is sixteen times greater 
than that of standards, the dwarf trees being G feet apart and the 
standards 21 feet asunder, and in the next seven years, half the dwarf 
trees being taken out—302 being left at 12 feet apart—there is a clear 
four times advantage in the dwarf trees, as until the fifteenth year the 
standards are not on a producing level with the dwarf trees. When the 
trees are heavily laden the crop should be reduce! half or two-thirds to 
have fine fruits, but the cropping should be apportioned to the vigour of 
the trees. 
Potting- Cyclamens (7. Jlcyah). — The “ time for potting 
Cyclamens ” depends on the growth of the plants. Young plants raised 
from seed require larger pots before the roots become firmly matted. 
Old plants which have flowered in the spring naturally rest for a time, 
then commence growth some time after midsummer, and just when 
young leaves are pushing up freely is a good time for removing a 
good portion of the old soil and repotting. A cool frame facing north 
is a good position for these plants, with the lights drawn off on dull 
days and dewy nights, so long as the temperature remains above 50°. 
In raising plants from seed some of the most successful growers sow in 
October, and grow the seedlings steadily without check of any kind in a 
temperature of 55° to 60°, and a genial atmosphere. Dry currents of 
air are fatal to free growth, and this is also arrested by extreme cold on 
the one hand and extreme heat on the other. The temperature should, 
not long remain below 45° at any time, nor above 70°. Some growers 
sow in the spring, as they have not suitable structures for growing 
the young plants through the winter. If you desire any further 
information please state its nature explicitly, also indicate the con¬ 
veniences at your disposal for growing the plants. 
Hardwooded Heaths (7. 71).—If the plants require potting it 
should be done at once, so that they will become partia’ly established 
in their pots before the sun has too much power. Select some of the 
best peat, broken up with the hand and used in a moderately rough- 
state ; in addition to a liberal dash of coarse .sand a little charcoal 
may be used with the peat. The soil should be pressed firmly into the 
pots, and the plants stood upon some moisture-holding material in the 
house in which they are grown. The ventilators may be kept closer 
for about a fortnight after potting, and the pots and stage being 
liberally syringed, so that water can be withheld from the roots as long 
as possible. After potting has been completed push on staking and 
tying as rapidly as possible. No more stakes than sufficient to maintain 
tire plants steady should be used. If the plants are tied with green 
thread very few stakes will be needed. The only tying that young 
stock needs is to bring down the strongest shoots towards the rim of 
the pots, so that the smaller and weaker ones wdll have a chance of 
gaining strength. When growth commences strong shoots that take 
the lead should occasionally be pinched. Young healthy plants when 
potted may be placed into pots 2 inches larger than those in which they 
are growing. 
IVIartynla fragrans (.S. 72.).—The plant of which you have seed 
is nearly related to the more popular Gloxinia, and is one of the 
handsomest of the genus, wffiiclv consists of seven or eight species. 
M. fragrans is a native of Mexico, and was introduced in 1840, and 
the genus is named in honour of the late Dr. Martyn, formerly Professor 
of Botany at Cambridge. It is of robust habit and easy culture, and 
being an annual there is no anxiety attaching to it in regard to keeping 
it through the winter, as is the case with the tubers of the Gloxinia, 
and anyone possessing a hotbed and greenhouse, or either of the two, 
may cultivate it successfully. The general appearapee of the plant is 
of a strong and bold character, possessing slightly glutinous hirsute 
stems and foliage. The flowers are axillary and terminal, exhaling a 
delicate fragrance. It seeds freely, and the pods are curious in shape, 
and are sometimes pickled, but of this I have no personal experience' 
