170 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 3, 1892. 
when present in a house in which Maidenhair Ferns are grown, very 
troublesome, as they eat the centres from the young leaves just as they 
are springing from the soil. These should be trapped by some of the 
methods in common use and destroyed. A preventive of their 
devouring them is to dust the young leaves with tobacco powder or 
common pepper. 
WOKK.fo^theWeEK.. 
Af 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Peaches and Nectarines on Walls.— Where these are trained 
on outside walls, and have been loosened during the winter, they should 
now be nailed or tied in before the buds get too far advanced, and con¬ 
sequently in danger of being rubbed off. Little or no pruning should 
now be required, as under good management the growths are properly 
regulated during the summer months, but any old wood not likely to be 
of use, also some growths on the upper parts of the trees, may be removed 
if not fairly furnished with flower buds. Before fastening the trees 
permanently see that the walls are well cleaned, and the branches of 
the trees free from insects. If the latter or mildew were at all trouble¬ 
some the previous year syringe both trees and walls with a solution 
at a temperature of about 110° of Gishurst compound, or other well 
proved insecticide, using according to the directions supplied by the 
vendors. The surface soil should also be removed, and if the ground 
below it appears to be at all dry a copious watering should be given, 
afterwards mulching the surface with a little decayed manure and fresh 
loam. Protecting material should also be ready for use. W^here moveable 
copings are used, glazed or otherwise, they should be fixed and the 
blinds attached, but not let down until the trees are further advanced 
and frosts or cutting winds are apprehended, unless it be in the middle 
of sunny days when it is wished to retard the trees. When the flowers, 
however, commence opening the mid-day shading must be discontinued, 
and all the sunshine possible admitted. 
Arrears. —All necessary pruning, thinning, or refastening of other 
fruit trees on walls should be completed at once. If the ground is too 
damp and adhesive to stand upon without clogging the feet with 
soil, lay a board down to walk upon. This is a little matter, but 
important. 
Gooseberries. —Tnese will now need attention, so that the shoots 
are not denuded of their fast swelling buds by sparrows and bullfinches. 
Most people find black cotton interlaced across the trees a good pre¬ 
ventive, whilst others use fish nets or small mesh galvanised wire netting 
fixed upon stout posts. In some cases late pruning of the bushes is 
practised, but it is not advisable to leave them unpruned any longer. A 
good dusting of soot and quicklime in equal parts applied over the bushes 
on a damp day will preserve the buds, benefit the roots of the trees, and 
des'roy vermin. 
Currants. —Red andWhite Currants should have their final pruning 
if not already done, spurring the side shoots back to one or two good 
buds, and shortening the ends of the branches, where there is room for 
extension, to about 6 inches. Give the ground beneath the bushes a 
sprinkling of fresh soot, or soot and lime mixed, and shortly afterwards 
apply a rich mulching of manure over the roots when the ground is not 
pasty. This will not only furnish a supply of nourishment to the active 
root fibres near the surface, but will tend to keep the soil uniformly 
moist, and encourage the multiplication of feeding fibres near the 
surface, instead of their having to seek for food in deeper and possibly 
inert soil. Black Currants when pruned should only have the old wood 
removed, all strong shoots being retained at full length except where 
shoots are required for furnishing a particular part. In other respects 
the same treatment should be afforded as to Red and White varieties. 
Liquid Manure for Fruit Trees.— The present is often a con¬ 
venient time for emptying tanks of liquid manure, and it may be 
applied with very beneficial results to most fruit trees, whether bushes, 
standards, pyramids, espalier, or wall trees, if established, and in need of 
more nourishment than the soil affords. If the liquid manure is very 
strong dilute with soapsuds or clean water. 
Standard Fruit Trees.—A final survey should be taken of 
orchards or plantations of these to see that no dead wood exists, and the 
branches are not too crowded. Moss and lichen if present should be 
removed by first scraping off the thickest of the parasites, and then 
dusting the stems and branches thickly when damp with freshly slaked 
lime. 
Strawberries. —Groundsel and other strong weeds in Strawberry 
plantations should be uprooted before they gain stronger hold of the 
soil. Groundsel if allowed to seed causes much trouble. Mulch between 
the rows with rich manure, and the crops of fruit that follow will 
astonish the grower if the plants are strong and in a full bearing 
condition, betokened by plump, bold crowns now. 
Scions for Grafting. —These should be cut at once, and laid-in 
in the ground in a cool place if they have not already been secured, as 
it is essential that the sap movement in the stocks be in advance of the 
scions when the grafting is done. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. —A batch of suckers should now be started to afford a supply 
of ripe fruit from about December onward through the winter and early 
summer months. The pots most suitable are 5 to 7-inch according to 
the size of the suckers, and should be perfectly clean and dry. Place 
about an inch of moderate sized crocks in them for drainage ; employ 
fibrous loam torn up moderately small as a rooting medium, rejecting 
the dust, pressing the soil firmly about the base of the suckers, and 
plunge in a hotbed of 90° to 95° at the base of the pots. No water 
should be applied until new roots are formed ; they are usually emitted in 
ten days to a fortnight. A moist close pit is a suitable place for suckers, 
where they can be near the glass, and unless the weather be very bright 
they will not need syringing, but in bright weather slight shading will 
be necessary for an hour or two at midday, and a light syringing through 
a fine rose will be necessary about twice a week. The temperature 
should be kept at 55° to 65° by artificial means, with 5° to 10° or 15° 
rise from sun heat. Any young plants in an unsatisfactory state should 
be shaken out and repotted after disrooting, treating them as advised for 
the suckers. Any stools with small suckers should have the latter left 
upon them until May or early June and then potted. Old plants from 
which the fruit has been cut and the leaves also should be placed closely 
together in any pit having a moderate top and bottom heat, where light 
and air can be obtained so as to insure sturdy suckers, which are the 
most satisfactory. 
The plants started in December are now showing fruit, and to 
accelerate the ripening the temperature should be maintained at 65° to 
70° by artificial means, with 5° to 10° advance under favouring con¬ 
ditions. These plants are best in a house to themselves, but where they 
cannot be so accommodated they should be placed at the warmest end 
of the fruiting house. With the fruit progressing the plants will require 
water more frequently at the roots, and should be examined once a week 
for affording a supply when needed. Recently started fruiting plants 
must be kept at 65° by night and 70° by day, keeping the atmosphere 
for these plants and fruiters generally moist by damping available sur¬ 
faces, watering as required with liquid manure in a weak and tepid 
state, 1 lb. of guano to 20 gallons of water forming an excellent stimu¬ 
lant for Pines. 
Figs. —Earliest Forced Trees in Pots .—The first swelling of the 
fruits on trees started in November will soon be completed ; they remain 
stationary for some time in the process of flowering, and, as this is the 
most critical stage in their culture, every care must be taken to avert a 
check. Insufficient moisture or excessive fire heat will cause the fruits 
to drop when they should be commencing their last swelling. Therefore, 
keep the temperature steady ; if mild, it may be kept at 60° to 65° at 
night, but if the weather is cold 5° less is safer, and what is lost at night 
may be gained in the daytime by closing with plenty of heat and moisture, 
when a rise of from 10° to 15° may be indulged in without producing a 
weak or elongated growth, keeping the temperature through the day 
with gleams of sun at 70° to 75°, otherwise maintain 65° artificially. 
Afford copious syringings on all favourable occasions, as a means of 
keeping down red spider. It is prone to attack the foliage most in close 
proximity to the hot-water pipes, and should be prevented spreading by 
sponging the leaves carefully with soapy water, 2 ozs. of softsoap to a 
gallon of water. To encourage the,swelling of the fruit, top-dressings of 
rich material should be applied to the surface of the pots ; a layer of 
turves round the rims, or bands of zinc about 4 inches wide placed 
inside the rims, afford space for the top-dressings, giving them at 
intervals, a little at a time, as the roots like fresh material. Supply 
tepid liquid manure steadily to the roots, giving it in sufficient quantity 
to pass through the pots. Avoid crowding the growths, stopping at 
about the fifth leaf, tying out the shoots as the growth advances, and 
cutting out superfluous shoots. These are, however, best prevented by 
rubbing them off early so as to give those left all the light possible. The 
fruit, to have colour and high flavour, must have full exposure to light, 
and a circulation of warm, rather dry air. 
Planted-out Fig Trees .—Those started early in the year will require 
disbudding, removing all the overcrowded shoots, and where there is not 
room for laying-in a long shoot, yet space for some growths, the shoots 
may be pinched at the fifth or sixth leaf to form well developed so- 
called spurs for the second crop, the leading and successional shoots, 
where there is space, being allowed to extend, as these invariably afford 
the finest fruits and longest succession. Water the border as required 
with tepid liquid manure, taking care not to apply it too strong, and 
mulch wdth an inch of roughish rich compost, which attracts the roots 
to the surface. Trees in restricted borders and needing more support 
may have roots encouraged from the collar or stem by placing fibrous 
pieces of turf interspersed with lime rubbish and manure in contact 
with it, and by extending the material outwards a quantity of feeders 
will be secured, which, if duly supplied with liquid manure, will greatly 
assist the fruit in swelling. Syringe the trees twice a day in favourable 
weather, damping only on dull days, and keep the malching constantly 
moistened. 
Young Irees in Pots .—Shift those intended for next year’s forcing, 
potting firmly, and afford gentle bottom heat. Shade slightly from 
bright sunshine for a few days until they show signs of having taken to 
the new soil, when they should be fully exposed to light. Pinch the 
growths so as to insure a sturdy well furnished head, training with 
a single stem of 8 to 12 inches. 
Cherry Houses. —Ventilation is the main art in forcing Cherries, and 
requires unremitting attention. A free circulation of air should pass 
through the house whenever the temperature exceeds 50°, regulating the 
