186 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 10, 1802. 
DEVON AND EXETER GARDENERS’ ASSOCIATION. 
On February 18th the lecturer at the meeting of the Devon and 
Exeter Gardeners’ Association was Mr. Ebbutt, gardener to the Rev. 
A. W. Hamilton-Gell at Winslade. Mr. Ebbutt selected as the subject 
for his address the culture of the Violet. Illness prevented the author 
being present, and in his absence the paper was read by Mr. P. C. M. 
Veitch, who also presided. The paper was as follows :— 
The Culture of the Violet. 
The history of the Violet (Viola odorata) goes back to time imme¬ 
morial, and there is pertaps no hardy flower which remains with us so 
long, and is so highly appreciated as the cultivated varieties of single 
and double Violets for their refreshing perfume. There are very few 
gardens in which they are not to be found. Whatever may be the 
fashion in flowers, the taste for a bouquet of sweet Violets never varies ; 
these humble flowers still hold their position and popularity. 
The secret of success in the culture of Violets depends on the treat- • 
ment they receive during the summer months, for to allow them to grow 
in thick masses in beds or in shady secluded positions will not produce 
the desired results. They may make free growth, and produce an 
abundance of leaves, which will only end in disappointment, but each 
individual crown must be sufficiently exposed to light, sun, and air to 
allow of them becoming plump and thoroughly matured by the autumn. 
The best of all positions I have found to grow them in is undoubtedly 
a piece of ground fully exposed in the centre of the kitchen garden. 
The great point in growing Violets, as in other garden operations, is to 
make a good start, and the most important matter is to prepare the 
ground suitably for their reception. For whether the plants are to be 
left in bloom where they are grown, or be lifted and transferred to 
frames, pots, or other structures, it is necessary that they have a 
moderately light, free, open soil, made firm before planting. I have 
invariably found that the greatest number of flowers are produced by 
plants grown on rather poor soil. Those grown on rich and deeply dug 
loose soils make much larger foliage, and bear finer, but fewer flowers. 
Therefore, and to make the various soils suitable for Violet culcure, I 
would correct light soils by an application of lime and soot to kill the 
insects, and some decayed turfy soil from an old pasture, or failing this 
roadside parings, which contain gritty material. Make the ground firm 
before planting in heavy tenacious soils by a light application of leaf 
mould, roadside parings, old potting soil, lime, and soot to destroy the 
insects, indeed anything containing gritty material to keep the soil 
porous. These ingredients should be forked into the soil, and be well 
incorporated to the depth of from 4 to 6 inches, as Violets are surface 
rooters, and do not descend deeply into the soil. 
Season for Planting .—I have found that the most suitable season for 
planting is during the latter part of March and April. I prefer the 
former month if plenty of bloom is required by the first week in 
August, inasmuch as Violets acutely feel the effects of dry, parching 
weather later on, and it is, therefore, absolutely necessary that the 
plants get thoroughly established, and have good root hold, by the 
time they are liable to be subjected to a hot sun and a dry parching 
atmosphere. 
Position .—Having chosen the position, the ground must be marked 
off for the reception of the plants, which must be, for all the large single 
and double varieties, 12 inches from row to row, and 9 inches from plant 
to plant in the rows, except for the early Russian varieties, which may 
be 9 inches each way in the rows. The plants are chosen ifrom the 
strongest runners, which the largest plants produce in quantities like 
Strawberries, the plants being inserted in the rows with the help of a 
dibber. The most suitable time to perform the operation of planting is 
when the weather is dull and showery, as then the plants quickly take 
hold of the soil in their new quarters. It is also a good plan, to get a 
start with young plants, to peg the runners down on the soil in the 
frames, so as to have them nicely rooted by the time the plants go out of 
flower, as they then grow away freely when planted out. Violets may 
also be raised from seed by carefully saving the best and well-ripened 
seed pods, but this method is not generally practised, except for raising 
new varieties. As the work of planting proceeds, the plants must 
receive a good watering to settle the soil round the plants. As soon as 
the work of planting is finished, a top-dressing of partly decomposed 
leaves, or hotted manure, or spent Mushroom bed manure, is very bene¬ 
ficial to the plants, as it arrests evaporation and keeps the ground cool 
about them. Not only is the top-dressing beneficial in the way referred 
to, but it prevents the washing of the soil from subsequent waterings, 
which must be frequent during dry weather; it also keep the plants 
clean during heavy rains, and it also prevents, in a measure, the attacks 
of red spider, and this is, indeed, the worst enemy the Violet has to 
contend with. Only a few days’ dryness at the roots, with a fierce 
burning sun, will quickly bring on an attack of spider, and then it is 
questionable if it can be disposed of again that season. This is shown by 
yellow patches in the leaves, but the great point is to try and prevent 
its appearance, and this may be obviated, in a general way, by keeping 
the plants free from weeds, frequently stirring the surface of the soil, 
and a daily routine of sprinkling and thoroughly watering the plants 
during dry weather. The Violet revels in an abundance of water during 
growth, with a frequent application of weak manure water to keep the 
plants growing. Most varieties produce runners during growth, and the 
plants must be carefully denuded of these from time to time as they 
show themselves. There is not a doubt that growing Violets inside 
enclosed garden walls is attended with much more difficulty than where 
more freely exposed, as in field culture, for then the plants can enjoy a 
far greater amount of air and the fresh summer breezes than those 
cultivated within the confined precincts of a walled enclosure. 
Culture at the Foot of Walls. —This position is attended with more 
or less uncertainty according to the seasons. Generally, if Violets are 
planted at the foot of sunny walls (which is the best position for them 
during autumn and winter), and remain there the whole year round, 
they will be rendered useless by the attack of red spider. I would much 
rather grow the plants as indicated in an exposed position, and transfer 
them to the foot of walls during the latter part of August, and shelter 
them during inclement weather with reed or straw mats, which would 
amply repay the grower. 
Culture in Cold Frames. —Wherever choice double Violets are grown, 
and these are the only varieties we grow in frames, it is of the highest 
importance that the position of the frames to receive the plants be duly 
considered, for it is indeed absolutely necessary that they get every ray 
of sunshine possible during early autumn and winter, and as these 
double varieties show unmistakeably good or indifferent culture, the 
blooms will lack that beautiful symmetry and doubleness that they 
otherwise possess. Moreover, it is very easy to produce an abundance of 
bloom during the spring months, which is the Violet season ; but it is 
from August to February that Violets are so highly esteemed. It then 
requires tact, and ability, and energy on the part of the grower to 
produce them. In mild winters double Violets will give a few pick¬ 
ings if garden frames are placed over them where they are grown, and 
the frames surrounded with hot manure and leaves about 2 feet wide 
and be carefully ventilated. 
Culture on Hotbeds. —These beds are best made up by the first week 
in September, as then it gives the plants time to get re-established 
before cold nights approach. The hotbed is best made up of prepared 
manure and leaves, about half of each sort, the leaves being a great help 
in retaining the heat in the bed, which can be made up to any desired 
height. Linings will have to be frequently resorted to from time to 
time to keep up the necessary temperature. Although this is a very old 
practice, still some of the finest blooms of double Violets may be 
obtained by this method, the blooms being bright and well coloured, 
but not the large quantity of bloom can be gathered as by forcing them 
under more natural conditions, in a pit properly heated. 
Cxilture by Hot Water. —I consider this the most natural of all 
methods for forcing the Violet during the winter months, producing 
atmospheric heat only. Moreover, there are other structures in which 
the Violet can be forced, as I have found they will readily force at any 
distance to 6 feet from the glass, providing they receive a maximum 
amount of light and be duly ventilated. It must be observed that in 
forcing the Violet anything approaching a forcing temperature must be 
entirely avoided, as the Violet is very impatient of artificial warmth, 
and if continued will result in the flowers becoming poor in colour and 
devoid of that rich refreshing perfume that they otherwise possess. 
I would also advise growers not to apply manure water of any kind to 
the plants during the blooming season in the frames, as it is sure to 
leave behind it an offensive odour, even on the buds, and is still retained 
after the blooms are fully expanded. lOne of the greatest enemies to 
Violets in frames is damp, but this can be reduced to a minimum where 
hot water is employed and judicious ventilation during all favourable 
weather, strict attention to cleanliness and keeping all weeds and 
decayed leaves removed. Another enemy is fog. This must be entirely 
expelled, if possible, by covering the lights closely with straw, mats, or 
anything at hand, as it will make its presence felt even in well-heated 
pits. 
The following are the varieties I have grown—viz., 
Single Varieties. —The Blue and White Russian.—These are early 
and very sweet scented, but unfortunately produce very short stems to 
the flowers, which is not desirable. 
Wellsiana (large blue).—This I consider to be the best variety for 
all purposes, being a most profuse bloomer, and not so strong a grower 
as the “ Giant ” and the “ Czar,” but far superior for private or market 
use. 
Double Varieties. —Neapolitan (colour pale lavender) —A very fine 
old variety, still one of the very best. Very sweet and delicately 
scented, but rather a tender variety, and requires a lighter soil than the 
other doubles. It is very susceptible to damp. 
Comte de Brazza (double white).—The test white in this class. It 
requires good culture, otherwise the flowers produce a green eye and 
come deformed. 
Marie Louise (deep blue).—The best and finest variety of this class, 
being a good grower and a great favourite with private and market 
growers. 
De Parme (a beautiful lavender colour).—An extremely free flower¬ 
ing and very compact grower. It does not produce runners like the 
other double varieties ; the very best for pot culture, and the finest of 
all for frame culture and for market. It produces more blooms in a 
given space than any other variety I am acquainted with. I consider 
those enumerated the best varieties for general use. 
To illustrate the leading kinds now grown in the principal gardens 
in the country, as well as for market purposes, bunches of cut Violets 
and some plants in pots were shown. The Neapolitan Violet was 
represented by Miss Mantoni, a very dwarf-growing, double-flowered 
plant of a bright violet shade ; Marie Louise, a dark violet coloured 
double ; Comte de Brazza, a fine double white; and The Queen, a new 
double white, with a very large flower. These were all sent by Mr. 
Veitch. The Miss Mantoni was much recommended on account of its 
