191 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 17, 1892. 
sometimes look thin in spring, there is generally an abundance for 
a crop, and they usually produce the finest leaves, an earlier sowing 
being left thicker in the rows so that dishes can be gathered when 
required. These north borders are also valuable for late Broccoli, 
provided the plants are not raised too early. The heads may only 
be small, but they are invaluable, and often fill in a break that 
would otherwise occur in many localities between Broccoli and 
early Cauliflowers. North borders are useful for Cauliflowers 
during the hottest and dryest part of the season. They are also 
very useful for Radishes and Lettuce. These borders are changed 
by cropping them with Turnips, Violets, and late Strawberries, the 
last remaining on the ground two years. The borders have a 
tendency to be stiff and work badly by having winter crops on 
them so frequently, but when Violets and Strawberries are cleared 
off, they are given thorough autumn and winter cultivation, and 
are again well worked in spring as soon as the surface is sufficiently 
dry. By the time it is necessary to put in the next crop the 
ground is in a good state of cultivation. The ground for Kale and 
Broccoli grown in these positions must not be heavily manured at 
planting time, or a soft growth will result. The plants should be 
grown hardy and assisted in spring. 
The main plantations of Broccoli should not be crowded or 
grown in sheltered places. Such treatment results in severe 
weather destroying the lot. The plants to commence with should 
be hardened by transplanting them from the seed bed to an open 
exposed position, and then to the ground they are to occupy. 
Suppose the ground has previously been cropped with late Potatoes, 
or better still late Peas and Runner Beans, the ground is firm, 
the surface only is dug in spring 2 or 3 inches in depth. The 
plants cannot grow very rapidly on firm ground that was not 
manured for the previous crop. They are grown without until 
severe weather is passed, when manure is spread amongst them, 
and its fertilising ingredients carried down to their roots. The 
heads are not large, but they are large enough for all practical 
purposes, and we have found the plants pass severe winters better 
under this method of culture than any other. 
It is often difficult for beginners, for which these notes are 
intended, to know what to do with ground that is being occupied so 
late in the season. It will, however, yield various good crops, such 
as Leeks, Turnips, Kidney Beans, Runner Beans, Potatoes, late 
Celery and Peas. For the first two the ground only needs to be 
well dug, if plenty of manure has been previously spread on the 
surface. We have had good crops of Potatoes by digging in the 
manure between the rows, planting them at the proper time, and 
then breaking up the ground between the rows after the Broccoli 
has been cleared away. Dwarf and Runner Beans, also Broad 
Beans, may be planted in the same way. Peas have been found to 
do least satisfactory when planted between the rows dug up ; but 
when the ground has been cleared, properly dug, and well manured 
we have found late supplies satisfactory. 
If we have in contemplation the destruction of a plot of Straw¬ 
berries after fruiting, and ground occupied with late Broccoli is in 
a suitable place, it should be well prepared for planting with 
runners as early as they can be obtained. The main object to 
consider in cropping a garden and being rewarded with good 
results is thorough cultivation of the soil. On stiff clay lands 
especially should early autumn and winter cultivation be prac¬ 
tised wherever crops can be cleared off in time. This can be 
done by forethought and judicious management ; in fact, certain 
quarters can be periodically turned up for exposure during winter. 
The ingredients taken from the soil by certain crops should be 
returned in the form of farmyard manure, specially prepared 
refuse heaps, or by artificial means.— Wm. Baedney, Osmaston 
Manor Gardens. 
Black Bryony. —If “S. S.” (page 164) will send me his address 
I will forward him a plant from the hedges of Black Bryony when 
they shoot up in the spring. — David Williams, Failand House, 
Failand, near Bristol. 
PREPARING FOR SUMMER BEDDING. 
The next two months will bea busy time with all who have large 
quantities of bedding plants to prepare for summer. The work of sow- 
propagating, and potting will require pushing on with speed to 
secure strong plants by the time they are wanted. Many annuals which 
are extremely useful for bedding purposes should in ordinary seasons 
be sown early in March in cold frames, but the very severe weather 
we have experienced recently has, doubtless, prevented many 
from sowing. It can be but little gain in the matter of earliness 
to sow seeds in cold pits while from 10° to 14° of frost are registered 
each night, the succeeding days being also deficient in sunshine. 
When, however, the present spell of wintry weather is over we 
may reasonably hope to see the genial influence of sunshine, 
quickening vegetation into rapid growth and hastening the 
germination of newly sown seeds, which have been kept in the seed 
room safe from the sharp frost of early March. 
The present time affords a good opportunity for preparing pits 
and frames for seed sowing. A little extra attention given to the 
soil is well repaid by doing much to secure quick clean growth. 
Soil in which Cucumbers and Melons have been grown during the 
previous summer months is, with other additions, excellent for the 
purpose. Fairly good garden soil, or any that may be at command 
from alterations in progress about the grounds. The latter generally 
possesses the great advantage of being free from many minute insects 
which abound in old garden soil, and that previously used in pits. 
Whatever soil forms the staple the only other additions necessary 
are a sufficient quantity of sweet leaf soil to render the whole 
light, some sharp sand, and a little burnt refuse ; for the latter all 
kinds of vegetation seem to have a great liking. These materials 
should be thoroughly mixed before using. 
In cases where the addition of 3 or 4 inches of this compost 
will bring the surface of the bed up -to within a foot of the glass 
at the back of the frame, and 6 inches at the front, it will not be 
necessary to place anything underneath. If otherwise put in a 
sufficient quantity of leaves, which should be trodden firmly, to 
bring the surface up to the necessary height. The first 2 inches of 
soil need not be sifted, unless in a very rough state ; the remainder 
should be passed through the half-inch sieve, be pressed moderately 
firm, the surface raked level, and a slight thickness of still finer 
soil placed on. All will then be ready for sowing seeds or pricking 
out seedlings. 
In beds thus prepared Dianthus Heddewigi, Carnations and 
Marguerites, may now be sown thinly, and will not require trans¬ 
planting till they are wanted for bedding purposes. Where early 
sowing of these have been made they will soon be ready for pricking 
out 3 inches apart in similar positions. Ten-week Stocks and Zinnias 
succeed well under the same conditions. The great point to be 
aimed at is to prevent overcrowding at any stage. Sow thinly, and 
if they are likely to get too crowded before planting-out time, thin 
early to secure short sturdy growth. 
The many beautiful varieties of Phlox Drummondi are ex¬ 
tremely effective during the latter part of the summer, but they 
may be had in flower much earlier than is generally the case if 
more attention is given to their culture. They are too frequently 
sown rather thickly, and left to take their chance till bedding-out 
time, when it is found they have become drawn and “ weedy ” in 
appearance, from which condition they take some time to recover, 
and in consequence produce only a late display. If seeds are sown at 
once in boxes, or on beds prepared as previously directed, kept steadily 
growing on without becoming crowded, the result will be a more 
robust growth and a longer period of flowering. To accomplish 
this sow each seed an inch apart, and when large enough transplant 
every alternate seedling. 
Godetia Lady Albemarle is a fine annual for supplying cut 
flowers, and is fairly useful for bedding purposes ; its greatest 
fault is that it grows a little too tall. The dwarf form of it now 
sent out should therefore be a great acquisition, and I intend to 
try some this year. Verbenas, seed of which can now be obtained 
in distinct colours, are indispensable for summer bedding, and when 
treated as annuals the flowers produced are certainly much larger, 
and the habit of growth more robust. It is not yet too late to sow 
in order to secure good plants by the end of May. It is, however, 
preferable to sow about the end of February. These plants always 
appear to me to thrive better on a hotbed than in any other 
position, and I would advise seeds sown now to be placed in such a 
position. When large enough to transplant, if set from 3 to 
6 inches apart on prepared soil over a hotbed, if other cultural 
details are well carried out, fine strong plants will be obtained. 
Petunias, Dwarf French Marigolds, and Tagetes should also be 
sown now. If sown thinly each succeed well without transplanting. 
The first week in April is soon enough to sow all types of Asters. 
Two other highly attractive and useful annuals are the dwarf 
arieties of Larkspur and Collinsia bicolor. These should be sown 
