203 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 17, 1892. 
down to convenient heights, and healthy grafts of strong and vigorous, 
yet better varieties, inserted just when the sap begins moving in the 
trees, causing an active circulation of the vital fluids essential to the 
success of the operation. The scions having been secured some time 
previously, and kept dormant in a cool position, will be in the right 
condition if firm and plump. 
Methods op Grafting. —The system of grafting usually adopted 
when improving large trees is that known as crown grafting, and perhaps 
this method presents advantages which no other does. Several scions 
may be inserted on one large stock, or as many as can be accommodated 
upon it at 2 inches apart. Branches may be headed down to almost any 
diameter and successfully worked, but the usual plan where crown 
grafting is adopted is to cut down to a point where three grafts can be 
inserted ; but of course lesser branches can be selected where two or one 
only can be received. Still less branches may be grafted, but in this 
case the system should be that known as whip grafting, when the stock 
and scion to be worked are almost, if not quite, of equal girth. 
When to Graft. —The latter end of March or early in April, 
according to the forwardness of the trees and the prevalence of 
moderately mild and moist weather, hut not in cutting and drying 
east winds, is the time best adapted for grafting, as then the alburnum 
separates easily from the bark, and the sap within the stock is active. 
Moreover, mild weather favours the work, the success of which depends 
in a great measure upon the expedition with which it is performed. 
The stocks in most cases should be headed down and the grafts inserted 
at the same time, because not only can the operation be performed 
more easily, but the parts are quite fresh for manipulation, and there is a 
surer prospect of a lasting union taking place. In shortening spreading 
branches undercuts are usually necessary to prevent splitting. 
Preparing Stocks and Scions. — The scions must be healthy, 
well ripened growths of the previous year, avoiding thick gross shoots, 
containing three or four good buds each when they have been prepared. 
The central part of a shoot is rightly considered to be the most suitable 
in the case of Apples and Pears, but if Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots 
are grafted, a portion of two-year-old wood should be attached. The 
length of scions varies with the growths, some having the buds much 
closer together than others, but as a rule 6 to 8 inches when the scion is 
prepared will be sufficient. In preparing the scions for crown grafting 
gee that all the buds which will be left are wood buds. Cut a long 
slanting portion of wocd from the lower end, starting from a point 
opposite a bud, using a very sharp knife, so that the cut is as clean as 
possible. Afterwards at the starting point take out a short transverse 
piece of the wood which will form a shoulder by which the scion, when 
inserted in its place on the stock, will rest firmly. The stock must be 
headed down to a suitable part where the bark is clean and smooth, and 
a similar length of cut made downwards in the bark. To insert the scion 
the bark should be lifted with a small wedge-shaped instrument, such as 
smooth bone, ivory, or wood, in order to admit the scion by its lower end, 
which should be slightly pointed on each side to render its introduction 
between the bark and the wood easy of accomplishment. The main 
point to be looked after in making the final adjustment is that the inner 
barks of stock and scion or the cambium layer in each should, as near as 
possible, exactly coincide. Having properly adjusted this important 
and essential point the grafts should be firmly tied with raffia, care 
being taken not to injure the parts in the operation. Then should 
follow the complete exclusion of air from all the cut parts and joinings 
of stock and scion, using either grafting wax or clay. Properly applied 
this preserves moisture about the grafts, and aids the processes of union. 
Eoot-pruning Fruit Trees. — This, where needed, should be 
carried out without delay before active growth commences. Late 
summer and autumn is the best time for this important operation, but 
it can be done in spring, and where trees are in an unsatisfactory con¬ 
dition by making too much wood they should be root-pruned. Very 
severe pruning, however, must not be attempted, only operating half 
round the tree and cutting off the main thick downward going roots. 
In the first place a wide trench must be dug at about 3 or 4 feet from 
the bole of the tree, and the soil carefully removed, undermining to reach 
the strong roots. When these have been severed the tree may be drawn 
partly over and the ]agged ends and split portions of roots cut cleanly. 
All loose soil may then be thrown out, and some good turfy loam 
mixed with old mortar rubbish added to take its place. The tree should 
then be set upright and properly secured with supports, the roots spread 
out as much as possible, and the whole mulched with some half-decayed 
manure to keep the soil moist. The result will be seen during the 
summer by the restricted wood growth, whereby little pruning will be 
needed; and by operating on the other side when a convenient time 
arrives the tree will probably assume a fruit-bud forming habit. 
Planting Fruit Trees. —If trees are needed in any position they 
may yet be planted, but it must be done carefully, and if possible with 
as little loss of roots as possible. Where, however, trees of any kind 
suffer from severe laceration of the roots through various causes during 
removal, those remaining should be neatly trimmed to firm portions, 
and after planting the trees should have their branches pruned back in 
the same ratio as the roots, and the resulting growth during the 
forthcoming season will be stronger and better in consequence. 
Stake firmly all those requiring support, and mulch the surface over 
the roots, also supply water when the weather is dry to encourage 
quick establishment. If trees arrive with their roots in a dry state it 
is an excellent plan to place them in water, there to remain till the next 
day. If the trees are very dry indeed let them remain in a pond for 
several hours, root and branch. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs. —Earliest Forced Trees in Pots ,—The very early varieties, such 
as Tresfer (Prdcoce d’Espagne), Early Violet, Angdlique, and St. John’s 
(Veitch’s), that were started in gentle bottom heat by the middle of 
November, are now showing signs of taking the last swelling for ripen¬ 
ing. The weather, however, has retarded the crop somewhat, and the 
larger fruited varieties, such as White Marseilles and Brown Turkey, are 
still stationary. They must not be hurried, as this is the most critical 
stage in Fig culture, checks of any kind causing the fruit to fall, and 
must be carefully guarded against. To insure flavour it is necessary to 
afford a higher temperature with increased ventilation, making the most 
of fine days for giving air, and closing early so as to secure safe advance¬ 
ment. After the fruit gives indications of ripening, water must he 
withheld ; yet, though less water at the roots is necessary, there must 
not be anything like dryness in the soil. Until the fruit changes 
for ripening, the trees must be well supplied with liquid manure, giving 
the whole rooting area a thorough supply, and to trees safely passed the 
flowering stage a thorough soaking with water a few degrees warmer 
than the bed, then covering the surface with a light mulching of 
thoroughly sweetened partially decayed lumpy manure, acts like a 
charm on Fig tree roots, for the manure absorbs moisture when the trees 
are syringed, and the changes it undergoes attracts the roots, whilst a 
genial vapour is given off highly favourable to the foliage. Syringe 
twice on fine days, once a day when the weather is dull, always giving 
the second syringing in time for the foliage to become fairly dry before 
night. Maintain a night temperature of 65° in mild weather, 70° to 75° 
by day, and with sun secure a heat ranging from 75° to 85°, closing early 
so as to raise it to 90° or more, as Figs swell best with abundance of heat, 
moisture, and light, full exposure to sunshine being absohrtely essential 
to secure high quality. Stop side shoots at the fourth or fifth leaf, not 
allowing them to become crowded ; then, where needed, train terminals 
forward where space remains unfilled, and it can he done without 
shading the fruit. 
Early Forced Planted-out Trees. — These now require generous 
treatment, especially when the roots are confined to narrow inside 
borders, as they should be, using sweet and rather lumpy material 
only. This should be kept regularly moist, as that is necessary for 
decay and the evolving of manorial elements, especially ammonia, 
which in minute quantities and in regular supply has a marked effect 
on the health of the trees. Syringe the trees thoroughly twice 
a day, or damp the paths and other surfaces frequently on dull days. 
Keep the temperature at 60° to 65° at night in mild weather, 5° less on 
severe frosty nights, ventilating from 70°, and keeping through the day 
between 75° and 85° from sun heat, attending to air-giving early, closing 
with a brisk heat about three o’clock in the afternoon, or earlier when 
cloudy. The growth is rapid, therefore give frequent attention to 
stopping side shoots at the fifth or sixth leaf, as these give the best 
results in the second crop, but avoid too many, for Figs are produced 
in proportion to the light received, hence where two or more shoots 
appear together rub off all but one, retaining those only that can have 
full exposure to light, otherwise they will not be sturdy and fruitful. 
Train terminals and successional growths to replace those reaching the 
limits, and to be cut out after fruiting, in their full length. 
Late Houses .—Very fine crops of Figs are grown in houses with a 
south aspect, even when unheated. The trees should be planted in 
narrow inside borders, well drained ; the best results with the strong¬ 
growing varieties, such as Brunswick and Negro Largo, being obtained 
by planting at the back of a lean-to, and training the trees with single 
stems up the back wall, and the fruiting branches disposed down the 
roof on a trellis about 16 inches from the glass. This checks their prone¬ 
ness to excessive vigour, and the sun rays falling directly into the points 
of the shoots insures their solidification and the highest perfection in the 
fruits. Trees may also be planted in front and trained up the roof. 
White Marseilles and Brown Turkey are the best for general purposes ; 
Grizzly Bourjassotte is the most constant for delicious flavour, and 
ought to have heat ; Negro Largo and Grosse Monstrueuse de Lipari are 
large Figs, the latter a certain first crop variety, and the former good for 
succession, but it requires heat to ripen the later fruits. Nebian and 
Agen are excellent for late use, these also must have heat to ripen the 
fruit perfectly. The principal points in their culture consist in keeping 
the growths thin, neatly secured to the trellis in summer, allowing the 
shoots to grow to the light towards autumn for ripening, and when 
growing afford generous treatment. 
Pines. —When recently potted suckers are rooted they indicate it 
by the growth of the foliage, yet they should be examined by turning a 
portion out of the pots, so as to ascertain the condition of the roots and 
soil. The roots which issue from the suckers or plants disrooted are 
very tender, and liable to injury from the effects of too much bottom 
heat, therefore the pots must not have more heat at the sides than 85°, 
as more is likely to endanger their growth. If the heat at the base of 
the pots is more than that they should be raised, placing some loose tan 
under and around them, so as to allow the superabundant heat to pass 
away, doing it, however, without chilling the roots. Afford water as 
necessary, yet only giving it when required. 
Prepare soil for transferring established plants to fruiting pots, as it 
is necessary that they be grown without check, and with the increased 
sun they root rapidly. Sound fibrous loam is the best material for 
potting, having it in good-sized lumps, and under cover to become 
warmed and dried. In potting press it firmly round the roots of the 
plants, supplying them with tepid water, and plunging at once in % 
, bottom heat of 90° to 95° until the roots have permeated the fresh soil, 
