214 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 24, 1892. 
I am not more thoroughly persuaded of anything, after a 
lengthened experience, than that such Vines as I am recommend¬ 
ing are much superior for planting to those reared in the old 
fashion. In 1874, for instance, I planted a range of vineries with 
Vines that I reared from eyes the previous season, all of which 
were grown in 6-inch pots, and their height restricted to 3i feet— 
the point from which I wanted them to start into their permanent 
growths. These were rigid and upright, having prominent buds 
like Peas, and when turned out of their pots it appeared as if they 
had used every particle of soil, and when washed free from it 
looked like mops. They started into growth rapidly and with 
vigour. The permanent Vines were planted 12 feet apart, and 
brought away with three canes each. A good many temporary 
Vines were planted and restricted to one cane that was prepared 
for a crop the following year, when they were cropped to 14 feet 
of their length. All who saw this house of Vines agreed that they 
were wonderful young canes. The permanent Vines were allowed 
to bear a few bunches to each limb, and the supers fourteen bunches 
of no mean proportions each, and which they brought to fine 
maturity. The sorts were chiefly Black Hamburghs, with a few 
Gros Colman. After that season the supers were removed, all but 
one Black Hamburgh ; this bore splendidly the following year, 
it continues to do so still, and to show clearly where it was cut 
back to the first year. 
In recommending this departure from the old stereotyped prac¬ 
tice of preparing Vines in large pots with rich soil and useless lengths 
of growth for planting, I am doing so because I am thoroughly 
convinced of its being more convenient, less laborious, and pro¬ 
ductive of far finer Vines for the purpose they are intended. 
I send you with this a sample of a Vine washed out of a 6-inch 
pot, and leave you to judge of the correctness of what I am recom¬ 
mending from the sample, which, as compared to a number of 
Vines I saw turned out of 11-inch pots last week, has six times as 
many rootlets. There is no greater mistake nor delusion than the 
big pot and long rod system for planting Vines ; what we should 
seek for are a multitude of roots and concentrated growth.— 
D. Thomson, Drumlanrig. 
[We think the soundness of the principle advocated will be 
admitted by thoughtful men, and we add an engraving, reduced 
one-half, from a photograph of the example alluded to.] 
FLOWERS FOR CUTTING. 
Gladiolus of the Gandavensis Section. 
Among the varieties of the above are not only the finest of 
the Gladiolus, but they at the same time constitute the grandest 
floral ornaments of late summer and autumn. Though of easy 
culture, they nevertheless demand that a due regard be paid to 
their requirements. It must be admitted, too, that some members 
of the family display a certain amount of fickleness, for one season 
we find them displaying their charms in lavish beauty, and anon, 
for some years, refusing to exhibit themselves to any advantage. 
Indeed, some of the most beautiful sorts, examples of which are 
Madames Desportes and Mabel, will only live in this country one 
or two seasons, the latter is always difficult to procure, and this 
season it is not to be had at all. But while that is so there 
remains a sufficient number of sorts possessed of noble qualities, 
and which exhibit not the slightest taint of weakness of consti¬ 
tution. For cut flower purposes more ought to be cultivated. 
The progress made by Gladiolus is slow compared with many 
other flowers, but a decided advance has been achieved of late 
years. Sorts of robust growth, with long spikes of large shapely 
flowers, have been produced, and as these become cheaper many 
of them will displace sorts which we are perforce obliged to culti¬ 
vate in quantity now. 
Two years ago at a central autumn flower show I was drawn, 
as usual, towards the Gladiolus, and found in the trade section a 
stand composed of the older sorts, and which their owner told me 
were those his firm cultivated for exhibition over a dozen years 
ago, at which time they ceased exhibiting. The varieties at that 
period were the best that could be purchased ; but when compared 
with other stands, furnished with the better forms grown now, 
the progress was apparent in a most striking degree. There are. 
fortunately, plenty of cheap varieties of the better types of flower 
of the present day, and a list of these will be subjoined. But first 
it is necessary to say that it is impossible to get even these fine in 
spike and flower, and equally impossible to ripen good corms if the 
treatment is not good. Many plants do fairly well when grown 
with others, just as Brussels Sprouts succeed planted among 
Potatoes or other growing crops. But as there are many vegetables 
which resent such treatment, in like manner does the Gladiolus. 
In addition to a large number cultivated in prepared ground I have 
annually to plant a few hundreds along with other flowers ; and it 
has been an unvarying experience that while brenchleyensis 
succeeds fairly well, not one in a hundred of the gandavensis is 
worth lifting, and the spikes are always inferior. In the case of 
other growers I have seen the same characteristics demonstrated. 
They have begun Gladiolus culture on the lines I have advised, but 
as the corms increased, and for effect, some have planted in mixed 
borders or flower beds, and the result has invariably been disastrous. 
In the north the practice of planting well started corms has 
become general in the last few years past. Some growers for 
exhibition purposes repot their stock, and transplant them like 
bedding plants. This I have never done, perhaps greatly on 
account of the number of pots it would take and the space to hold 
them ; but I find the plants succeed perfectly placed out thickly in 
boxes. Even on the borders of cool fruit houses the corms can be 
started in the same way as Potatoes, with this difference, however, 
—that the Gladiolus must be placed on a 2-inch layer of leaf soil, 
in order that the roots may be preserved when being transferred to 
the open ground. The space required in which to grow a large 
collection of Gladiolus may appear to some as an amount too vast 
to be spared in a private garden. Perhaps it might be if the rule 
of planting a foot apart were followed. Last season I planted 
150 in a 50 foot row, and a second 150 in another row 1 foot from 
the first; then a 2 foot space occurred, and the same rate of plant¬ 
ing was repeated. It is thus very apparent that a large number of 
Gladiolus may be grown in a comparatively small space of ground. 
The proper maturing of the corms is always a matter of much 
anxiety, for not only does the quality of the next season's flowers 
depend thereon, but in some cases whether corms will be left to flower 
at all. Three years ago I tried a method which I have since con¬ 
tinued with good results. Its value was discovered in a simple 
manner, for I had noticed that early ripened corms left in the soil 
often went bad, and in order to stop this plants which were 
becoming yellow were lifted and laid on the surface of the soil, 
and in the same place they had grown in order to preserve the 
name. These, I noticed, became plump and ripened admirably ; 
later lifted plants did the same, so that I made bold to lift the 
whole as the leaves turned yellow and left the corms to ripen in 
the open air. 
The points worth emphasising are these : The corms increase in 
bulk, the vapour in the atmosphere appearing to supply a sufficient 
amount of moisture, not only to preserve them from shrivelling 
but actually to increase their size. The risk of roots protruding 
late in the season from the young corms is obviated, and the 
ripening process is perfected better than by any other method I 
have tried. Very late growths are finished under glass. There is, 
of course, a certain risk to be feared from frost, but that must be 
prepared for. I shall have something more to say about these 
plants another week.—B. 
NOTES ON APPLES. 
On page 140 Mr. T. F. Rivers opens up a most interesting 
subject, and one also extremely useful in these days of extensive 
planting of fruit trees. Much has been written and spoken of the 
varieties of Apples to plant, but comparatively little has been said 
of those which should not be planted, more particularly from a 
remunerative point of view. The following, in my experience, are 
not to be recommended as market varieties :— 
American Mother, one of the sweetest Apples grown, which 
only succeeds on warm soils, and is an especial favourite with insect 
enemies. 
Ashmead’s Kernel is a first-class dessert Apple, but of little 
value for market, being too small, and has not a good appearance. 
The improved type is a long way ahead of it, and I was pleased to 
see that the Royal Horticultural Society had awarded it a certifi¬ 
cate of merit. 
Belle Dubois, an immense Apple, but one of the worst 
croppers we have here, and is given to canker in our light soil. 
Red Bietigheimer, or The Rostocker, I have never seen crop¬ 
ping well, and is of not much value except for exhibition. 
Blenheim Pippin is still held by many to be one of the best 
Apples grown ; but with all due respect to those who recommend 
it, I would not give it room in a plantation from which profit was 
expected. There are many varieties that would pay for them¬ 
selves repeatedly before Blenheim Pippin will begin to be remu¬ 
nerative, and I should reckon on twenty years elapsing before a 
standard would produce a good crop, which is a large space in a 
person’s lifetime. 
Brown’s Codlin, syn. Queen Caroline, is a model fruit, but not 
one of the most prolific on our soil. I have heard better accounts 
of it on heavier soils. 
Cellini is one of the worst varieties in this neighbourhood, being 
