220 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 24, 1892. 
OdONTOGLOSSUM CRISPUM VAR. NOBILirS. 
So many handsome varieties of Odontoglossum crispum have 
been introduced from time to time that it is always a matter for 
surprise when a novelty of exceptionally distinct character makes 
its appearance amongst the hundreds of imported plants. If all 
the varieties of this protean species which have received names 
and certificates could be seen in flower together side by side they 
would present a range of variation highly interesting as a study 
and attractive as a floral display. Yet, even now “ new departures ” 
FIG. 34.— ODONTOGLOSSUM CRISPUM VAR. NOBILIUS. 
are occasionally secured, though more rarely, and they are 
proportionately valued by their fortunate finders or purchasers. 
The variety shown by Baron Schroder from The Dell Gardens, 
on February 9th last, received the distinctive and appropriate 
secondary title of “ nobilius,” and of which it was quite as worthy 
as the Dendrobium honoured with the same designation. Though 
new to the majority who saw it, this could not, however, be claimed 
as a novelty in the strict sense of the word, for it was exhibited 
at the Orchid Conference in 1885, when it was much admired ; but 
as it had not flowered from then until the present year no further 
opportunity had occurred for comparison and testing its qualities. 
The Orchid Committee soon indicated their opinion of the plant’s 
merit by the award of a first-class certificate. 
As can be judged from the illustration (fig. 34), the flowers 
are of great size and fine proportions, the sepals and petals very 
broad, the latter regularly and rather deeply cut at the margin, 
and the lip beautifully fringed. The ground colour is white, 
and the exceedingly bold confluent blotches of rich bright brown 
imppt a remarkable character to the flowers. The lip is of 
a size proportionate to the other parts of the flower, but the 
spots are smaller, though the colour is rich.—Q. 
Cattleya Trian^. 
This well known Cattleya is one of the most useful and easiest 
grown of the genus. A native of the Cordilleras of New Grenada, 
it is—unlike the C. gigas section—impatient of much heat. Grown 
in the Cattleya house proper, or failing that, a Fern house, it thrives 
without any special attention. It readily adapts itself to any form 
of culture ; in baskets, pots, cylinders, or on blocks. I have even 
seen it flowering in pockets made in the concrete back of a fernery. 
From choice I grow my plants in pots, though 1 have nothing to 
say against the other methods named. I use good fibrous peat, well 
shaken out, two parts, live sphagnum, well cleaned, one part, with 
a good sprinkling of silver sand. The pots and crocks used are 
washed and dried. Everything used for potting is placed in the 
Cattleya house overnight to insure as uniform a temperature as 
possible when the plants are turned out. All things being ready, 
the plants are shaken clear of the old compost, the potting stick 
being used to remove what will not shake off. Having crocked 
the pots within 2 inches of the top, the plants are firmly potted 
to the level of the rim with a small rise to the centre, the 
surface being furnished with a few living heads of sphagnum 
at intervals round the rim or otherwise. 
If any prove to be in a sickly state, the roots are 
washed, a neat stake being worked into the pot along with 
the crocks, when necessary, to tie the pseudo-bulbs to, 
so as to keep the plants firm. Small, perfectly clean crocks, 
are the best medium for these sickly plants to root into. 
When these invalids are comfortably ensconced in their 
nursery pots, the base of the leading growth is on a level 
with the rim of the pot, so that when healthy roots are 
made a layer of peat and sphagnum can be laid on without 
in any way disturbing them. Sickly plants thus treated 
generally turn out well the following spring. Potting 
Cattleyas, and indeed all Orchids, is a most important item 
in their culture, skilful potting being imperative if the best 
results are to be obtained. 
This Cattleya can hardly have too much water during 
its season of growth. When growth is completed much 
less should be given, or, especially in the case of forward 
plants, a second growth will appear, setting the chances 
of flowering at a discount. Prudence should also be exercised 
in the use of the syringe as the growths approach maturity, 
as a little water lodged at the base of the sheath is some¬ 
times known to cause mischief. Those that flowered early 
are now ready for potting if that process is necessary, while 
a few may extend the potting as late as the middle of May 
It is better to pot a few when ready than to wait 
until the whole can be done together. I make it a 
practice to pot the plants as soon as the bud at the 
base of the leading growth is advancing. 
A word about the right plants to pot. Small pieces 
usually undergo this ordeal better than larger ones. I 
have known many a small plant that would give but a poor 
return if not potted, or at least top-dressed annually, while 
large pieces go undisturbed two or more years and seem the 
better for it. 
There are many varieties of this species. I should not 
like to say how many. In one nurseryman’s catalogue 
now before me forty varieties are enumerated, though 
this large number is probably short of the mark. 
The following varieties have the merit of being 
distinct and good, viz., C. T. Dodgsoni, a white 
flower of good substance, the lip being a rich crimson 
in front with an orange throat; C. T. Hilli, similar to 
the foregoing in petals and sepals, but with magenta at front of 
lip, the throat being of a duller yellow than Dodgsoni. This is 
a massive flower and very striking. 
C. Triame Russelliana is a good distinct form, the petals being 
white slightly suffused with rose and waved. The lip is violet 
purple in front merging into rose, the edge being pleasantly 
curled. 
C. Trianse velutina differs from the type in its habit of growth 
and is very fragrant.—W. R. W., Great Marloio. 
ClELOGYNES. 
When large Coelogynes are divided they should be sorted into 
three sizes—those with the largest pseudo-bulbs, then those with 
small but healthy ones, and the remainder will be composed of the 
back portions of the rhizomes with two or three sound pseudo-bulbs 
or more upon each. Pans of any size may be filled with the two 
former, while the latter are placed thickly into 5 or 6-inch pans 
until growth commences. The pans for these are practically filled 
to within one inch of the rim, so that very little material is needed 
until they have started into growth. These have no more water 
than is necessary to keep them fresh and plump. Frequently these 
