March 24, 1892. ] 
JO URINAL OF BORflGFLTURF AFfD COTTAGE GARDENER. 
225 
fresh state. This, of course, can be easily accomplished by giving 
regravelling; but there are many cases in which the walks already 
contain a sufficient quantity of gravel, and a further addition would not 
only make them fuller than is desirable, but would also be the means of 
incurring unnecessary expense. 
The present is a suitable time to give this work the requisite atten¬ 
tion. In cases where weeds and moss abound an application of one of 
the advertised weed killers should be given a week previous to the 
commencement of other operations. The surface should then be shovelled 
off and swept clean with a stiff broom, to remove as far as possible moss, 
weeds, sand, and soil, which generally accumulate to a certain extent 
during the winter months. The surface may then be broken up to a 
depth of 3 inches and turned with a spade, leaving the top in a rough 
state for a few days, so that the drying winds and sun may make all 
parts easy to separate with a rake. If the gravel is of such a nature as 
to form a walk which will bind well in dry weather, and not become too 
soft in wet; after being broken up with a rake it will only require 
levelling, raking even, and well rolling to complete the operation, when 
a firm fresh-looking walk will be the result. 
There are, however, many instances, in which the gravel to be dealt 
with does not possess the good qualities above described. Where there 
is too great a quantity of sand in its composition, and the gravel 
altogether of a fine description during dry weather, the walks made 
from such materials are satisfactory enough ; but after heavy rains they 
become soft, and therefore unsuitable for their intended purpose. The 
best and most economical method of improving such materials is, after 
loosening the surface to a depth of 3 inches, and allowing 
it to become dry enough to work with facility, to sift 
out and wheel away the greater part of the sand. This 
is easily done by forming the gravel in a ridge along the 
centre of the walk, and taking out the material which 
will fall through a quarter-inch sieve, then returning the 
remainder in the form of a ridge to the centre of the 
walk again. When the sifting is completed, place a 
coating of newly slacked lime upon the gravel left in 
the centre of the walk, using the lime at the rate of one 
barrowload to ten of gravel. Mix these materials well 
together, and spread them evenly upon the walk. When 
the whole is completed, roll well with a heavy roller, 
place a quarter of an inch of fine gravel upon the surface 
to fill up interstices and give the right colour, then roll 
again. After the first thoroughly good rain repeat the 
latter operation several times in succession, the surface 
of the walk will then remain firm and solid. When the 
gravel has been r&laid, if thoroughly well watered after 
the first rolling is given, it may be made firm at once 
by passing the roller several times over it; but the 
surface must be thoroughly wet or quite dry, otherwise 
the gravel adheres to the roll, and the work is only 
imperfectly performed. 
These remarks apply to walks which were well made in the first 
instance; where this has not been done, 3 inches of rough gravel 
ought to be placed in the bottom,—H. Dunkin. 
LAURELS. 
I SHOULD like to supplement the remarks of “ B.,” page 81, briefly, 
as Laurels are great favourites here for many purposes, but especially 
for growing under tall forest trees where the grass will not flourish. 
The soil being heavy the colour of the leaves is a deep green, and as the 
plants receive an annual pruning the growth is quite dense, although 
in many places not more than 3 feet high. In putting out young plants 
some manure added to the soil well pays for the trouble if rapid growth 
is wanted. Laurels of all sorts are very partial to it, especially if the 
subsoil is near the surface and of chalk. This Laurels object to, and its 
near presence to the roots in quantity quickly changes the colour of 
the leaves to a pale green, which afterwards deepens into yellow, and 
they subsequently succumb to a hard frost. Even if they do not die the 
colour is most objectionable ; one always looks for a considerable depth 
of green in the common Laurel. Where chalk is close to the surface the 
difficulty may be overcome by making good sized holes and filling the 
space with any kind of soil to which manure is added freely. It is 
surprising for what a number of years the plants will flourish on the 
same site without any addition. 
It is an easy matter to get Laurels to grow in strong, loamy, or sandy 
soils, but in a thin soil over chalk it is not. Many persons make a 
mistake with their Laurel bushes or hedges by refraining too much from 
pruning them. To obtain the best results the plants should be trimmed 
every year, always using a knife. The variety rotundifolia is infinitely 
superior to any other for making a neat hedge, its compact habit of 
growth fits its exactly for that purpose. My experience of the Colchic 
variety is that it is quite frost-proof. When growing freely it is a noble 
looking plant; the long, exceedingly deep green leaves have a bold 
appearance, and for forming a tall screen quickly it is the best of 
the family, as its natural habit is upright. Another variety, the 
Caucasian, “ B.” does not name. This is, I think, the most useful of all, 
and is said to be hardier than the common one. The growth is medium, 
very compact, the leaves long and narrower than any other, but of a 
dense green colour. For planting on sloping banks or by the margin of 
paths where a low but thick growth is required the Caucasian variety is 
undoubtedly the best. 
The Portugal Laurel is a capital hedge plant. We have it 12 feet 
high. The plants were shifted to their present position six years ago 
and were of good size then. Abundance of fresh cow manure was worked 
into the soil a little distance away from their roots, and during the 
summer a thick mulching of the same ingredient was laid on the 
surface soil. This was repeated the following year. The present 
appearance of the plants justifies the method adopted to produce a 
quick growth and rich colour of foliage. This Laurel is especially 
amenable to pruning, additional growths being freely made as a result. 
As an evergreen hedge plant the Portugal Laurel has no superior.— 
South Hants. 
EDUCATION IN GARDENING. 
We announced some time ago that with the object of stimulating 
effort for the acquirement and dissemination of knowledge in gardening, 
or, in other words, for affording encouragement to gardeners who are 
members of horticultural or mutual improvement societies to contribute 
in the best form to the literature of gardening, a limited number 
of silver medals would be granted by the Journal of Horticulture 
during the present year for essays which should be deemed the best by 
competent adjudicators. We, of course, reserved to ourselves the right 
of presenting a medal apart from competition in recognition of 
specially meritorious work in our columns ; and as we have granted one 
Fia. 36. 
to a most effective helper, the occasion is thought appropriate for the 
accompanying representation. It is highly appreciated, but for more 
than one reason the recipient prefers not to have the inscription 
published, and we conform to his wishes, “ It is enough,” he says “ to 
possess the testimonial,” and he would like for “ Journal readers to 
wonder who the lucky man can be.” Some medals have been allocated 
and other applications are under consideration. 
DESTROYING SLUGS. 
Having read the plans described by various correspondents, I give 
the one I follow, which differs slightly from that of “ H. W.” (page 103), 
Any mild evening about 6 p.m. I moisten some fresh bran with boiling 
water, then with a garden trowel I place small quantities about a yard 
apart on the ground. The same night about 9 P.M. I take some dry 
sifted lime and dust the heaps of bran and the earth around them, as I 
have noticed some of our friends coming to the feast and others going 
away. No doubt some will object to this night work, but I can alwaj s 
find more slugs at that time than in the morning. Fresh brewers’ 
grains will do instead of bran, but these need nor. be moistened. I have 
had ducklings in the garden, but much prefer the above plan. I do not 
consider that boards, decayed or sound, laying about the garden, as 
suggested by B. D. K.” (page 181), would be very attractive, as to be 
effectual they would hare to remain for some time.— Devon. 
In addition to the boards suggested on page 181 I have for many 
years dealt with slugs as follows i—I first make the ground firm with 
my boot or the back of a spade, so that slugs may not bury themselves 
out of reach or sight; I then place Cabbage or similar leaves on the 
spot, sliced Turnip, Carrot, or Potato of inferior quality, over which I 
place the boards. This affords attractive shelter and food. The boards 
are lifted and examined frequently, and the vermin may be cut through 
with an old sharp-edged knife, or the slugs and eggs which are deposited 
may be destroyed with a little fresh quicklime, choosing a fresh place to 
set again.—J, Hi AM, Astwood Bank. 
Some of your readers appear to derive consolation from the thought 
that frost destroys slugs. One correspondent says the enemies are not 
often “ caught napping.” If he had been as wide awake as he should 
be he might have caught a few literally hard asleep—in fact, frozen 
