238 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 31, 1892. 
Borneo and related to S. Lobbi, the flowers being yellowish veined 
and streaked with reddish brown, the lip very curiously formed and 
balanced. 
Another species for which Messrs. Sander & Co. obtained a 
first-class certificate on June 24tb, 1890, is S. Godseffianum, which 
comes from the Philippine Isles and belongs to the same section as 
that just noted ; the colouring is, however, very different, the 
dorsal sepal being veined with purple on a yellow ground, the lip 
white spotted with rich purple. The flowers are amongst the 
largest of the genus. 
Sarcopodium psittacoglossum was shown by Sir Trevor 
Lawrence, Bart., at the R H.S. meeting on July 8th, 1890, but it 
did not secure an award, though it is very peculiar in form, 
especially the lip. The general colour is yellow with purple lines 
and markings, which contrast very markedly with the other portion 
of the flower. All these require to be grown in a warm house 
under similar conditions to the tropical Bulbophyllums. 
Oncidium sarcodes. 
Messrs. Charlesworth, Shuttleworth, & Co., Park Road, 
Clapham, exhibited at the last meeting of the Royal Horticultural 
Society a group of well grown Oncidium sarcodes, &c., for which 
a silver Banksian medal was awarded. Some of the long branching 
spikes were 4 to 5 feet in length, and the group was very attractive. 
This reference was accidentally omitted from our report last 
week. 
POTTING PLANTS. 
Before replying to the remarks of Mr. C. Lock I should like to com¬ 
pliment him upon the forcible manner in which he has expressed 
himself as heartily as I have on past occasions eulogised the grand 
plants he has staged at the western shows. 
When my critic tells me “ it is one of the greatest errors imaginable 
to pot a Palm loosely to induce free and rapid growth,” I am inclined 
to think he is drawing largely upon his imagination to support so 
emphatic an assertion ; certainly he gave us no facts to support it. I 
have seen on many occasions the grand Palms from Crediton, but the 
fact of their being remarkable examples of rapid growth does not in the 
least affect my remarks on potting Palms, which Mr. C. Lock takes excep¬ 
tion to. I simply gave the reason why it was necessary to pot many plants 
firmly, which would in reality grow quicker with less firm potting. 
Under an artificial state of cultivation it is often necessary to work on 
lines directly opposite to those which, in connection with other circum¬ 
stances, would secure equally good results. Those cultivators who fall 
into the habit of working in a groove, and who think the same methods 
are the best under all circumstances, are capable of achieving great 
results or of making conspicuous blunders. In the case of very large 
exhibition plants it is a matter of vast importance to grow them as 
large as possible in pots or tubs of limited extent, otherwise they 
speedily become too cumbersome to carry about, and it is only by very 
firm potting and high feeding that they can be kept in the best 
condition. 
It has long been an acknowledged fact that comparatively loose 
potting induces quick growth in the majority of plants. Such quick 
growth is produced at the expense of floriferousness in some cases, in 
others at a sacrifice of colour in the foliage, but when the production of 
quick growth is the greatest consideration comparatively loose potting is 
one of the best methods of securing it, though of course other details of 
cultivation must be well carried out. There is much truth in the old 
saying, “ Pot lightly for growing and tightly for blowing,” and it has 
the advantage of being one which can be easily proved. Let anyone 
pot a Melon, a Marguerite, or a Pelargonium loosely, then in the same 
kind of soil pot others very firmly, and grow them side by side. Before 
many weeks a distinct difference in the growth would be seen. Two 
Palms given the same treatment would differ quite as much, but being 
much slower in growth the disparity would not be noticed so soon. Let 
no reader infer from this that I advocate now, or have ever advocated, 
loose potting as a general practice. But the illustration there given of 
the conditions, in regard to potting, under which Palms will make the 
most rapid growth, instead of being “ one of the greatest imaginable 
errors,” is a hard fact, which will remain long after the fine Palms from 
Crediton have ceased to exist. 
My critic, in one paragraph, strongly advises growers of Ericas and 
Dracophyllums to hesitate before following my advice about keeping 
the collars of hardwooded plants slightly below the surface of the sur¬ 
rounding soil; then in the next paragraph shows clearly an additional 
reason why this should be done. I refer to that portion where he 
points out the fact that soil around newly potted Heaths is liable to 
drain away the water given before it has penetrated the old ball. Here 
is a clear case of one advantage of slightly lowering the centre. So 
long as the collar is not buried with soil, and the watering is carefully 
done, the practice answers well. 
Before concluding, I must say Mr. C. Lock is drawing a very fine 
fine of criticism when he objects to my advice that in some cases Heaths 
or Ericas only require shifting into pots one size larger, which he pre¬ 
sumes would only be an increase of 1 inch in diameter. No ex¬ 
perienced gardener would think of giving any plant quite so small a 
shift; but in hundreds of cases the ordinary shift of 2 inches would be 
too much, though the plant yet required potting. There are always odd 
sizes of pots which come in for this purpose, and which can only be 
termed one size larger. Such hair-splitting objections show their own. 
weakness,—H. Dunkin. 
Present Work amongst Chrysanthemums. 
To produce dwarf plants for grouping purposes, and for perfecting 
exhiibition blooms a little later than the bulk of those treated in the 
ordinary way, the top is taken from the plant early in April, the 
stem being then about 1 foot high, according to the variety. Three 
growths are selected afterwards, all other shoots being removed as fast 
as they appeacr The first bud which is formed on these new growths is- 
preserved for developing the future bloom. Such naturally early 
flowering sorts as Mrs. Falconer Jameson, Mrs. C. Wheeler, and Edwin 
Molyneux, for instance, among the Japanese, are amenable to this 
treatment. It is not safe to treat similarly the incurved varieties. The 
blooms of this section need to be more solid in their “ build ” than the 
Japanese, and to procure this a longer season of growth is necessary to 
mature the wood sufficiently to give the best results. 
Mrs. Alpheus Hardy. 
Much interest is now displayed in the varieties which CDnstitute a 
section of the Japanese, now called the hairy family, of which Mrs. 
Alpheus Hardy was the first, and still the best, when seen in good 
condition, but unfortunately that is seldom. This variety has a weak 
constitution, and needs different treatment to that accorded the bulk of 
Chrysanthemums. The routine which appears to give the best results is 
procuring stout' cuttings, growing the plants in small pots as compared to 
other sorts, employing soil of a lighter character, and avoiding the use 
of much manure, either in the compost or as a stimulant afterwards, as 
the roots appear to be weak and unable to imbibe strong manurial 
applications. A long season of growth under glass is also required. Some 
of the finest blooms obtained were the result of allowing the plants 
to remain in a light airy greenhouse until the middle of July, then 
placing them outside in a sunny position to mature the growth. 
Although it is not absolutely essential to obtain early bud formation 
to gain success with this variety, it is certainly advisable to obtain them 
as early as possible, for as a rule the blooms require a long season for 
development. Some of the finest flowers seen last year were the result 
of “taking” the buds in July. Some persons top the plants early in 
April, selecting two of the strongest shoots resulting. The first bud 
which these growths form is retained for giving blooms, all other 
growths being removed as they appear. 
Destroying Aphides and Mildew. 
Green and black fly will soon be troublesome to the cultivator of 
plants, especially for large blooms. They attack the points of the 
shoots, and if allowed to go on unchecked do serious mischief. The 
greatest mistake made is in neglecting the application of a remedy, even 
for a few days after the appearance of either these insects. Prompt 
attention to dusting the points affected with tobacco powder at night 
and somewhat vigorously syringing the plants the following morning 
with clean water, one person holding flrmly the point of the shoot in 
the hand while a second applies the water, will remove both insects and 
powder also. There is a tendency to mildew forming on the lower leaves 
of many plants this year, notably the Queen family. Dusting the 
affected parts with flowers of sulphur will have the desired effect. If 
not taken in hand at once the lower leaves will not only be spoilt in 
appearance, but the plants will be deprived of a supply of food which 
they receive through the leaves. It is always wise to maintain those 
near the base in good condition, especially during the early stages of 
growth. 
Chrysanthemums on Walls. 
In most gardens wall space can be found for a few plants, which 
would otherwise be bare. By a very small amount of labour, and no 
expense, such sites can be made gay during November and early in 
December. I find this late supply of flowers exceedingly useful for 
vases when the bulk of the ordinary inside flowering plants are over. 
Instead of throwing the old roots away turn them out of the pots, 
remove the crocks and some of the soil, and plant them at the foot of 
the wall or fence, two to a yard, choosing the varieties which reflex 
their florets in preference to the incurved varieties, which hold moisture 
too long for their keeping quality. Pompons and single-flowered varie¬ 
ties give an abundance of blooms. No disbudding need be practised, 
but the number of shoots must be regulated according to the wall space, 
not overcrowding them, as firm growth is essential. 
Providing good Cuttings. 
Eemembering the difficulty experienced in obtaining sufficient cut¬ 
tings of new or choice varieties at the proper time it is a good plan to 
take off suckers that are sometimes found during the month of April, 
