April 7, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
267 
even only to a moderate extent, it would perhaps save breaking up a 
valuable bed occasionally if a number of plants were raised specially 
for forcing. Sow the seed on deeply dug, freely manured, and well 
worked ground, in drills 2 feet apart, and eventually thin out the 
seedlings to a distance of 12 inches apart. They ought to have 
two clear seasons’ growth, and would be all the better for an additional 
year. 
Cauliflowers. —Broccoli are scarcer than anticipated, and early 
Cauliflowers will be more appreciated accordingly. If handlights are 
available no time should be lost in placing about five plants in each 
of these. They may also be brought on quickly on warm borders and 
at the foot of south walls, temporary protection being afforded, especially 
when first put out. Cauliflowers generally delight in a sweet yet well 
manured root run, and if the manure is buried too deeply and the top 
spit be poor a bad start will be made, and “ buttoning ” take place. 
Therefore fork a little short well decayed manure into the surface, and 
plant firmly, always saving as good a ball of soil about the roots as 
possible. When the plants are sufficiently hardened to be turned out 
into the open do not longer keep then starving in pots or boxes, and for 
a time they may be protected during cold nights with inverted flower 
pots. The small forcing or extra early forms may be planted 18 inches 
apart each way, Erfurt Mammoth, Early London, Magnum Bonum, and 
other successional varieties being disposed 18 inches apart in rows 2 feet 
asunder, while not less than an additional 6 inches each way should 
be allowed the stronger growing Eclipse and Autumn Giant. Seed of 
the last named and also one or more of the successional varieties 
mentioned may now be sown on a border or sunny open spot, the 
plants thus obtained affording a good succession to those raised under- 
glass. 
Brussels Sprouts. —If no plants have been raised under glass sow 
seed at once in a good open position, either thinly in drills or broad¬ 
cast, covering in the latter case with sifted soil. With strong, sturdy 
plants obtained in this way, and improved strains to select from, there is 
little likelihood of the crop being either very light or late. Even if 
abundance of plants have been raised under glass it may yet be advisable 
to raise more as advised, in case any of those put out early should fail. 
Brussels Sprouts may also be sown where the plants are to grow. Draw 
the drills not less than .80 inches apart, sow the seed thinly, and finally 
thin out the plants to about 2 feet apart. 
Various. —If early Savoys are appreciated, sow seed of King Koffee 
or other early dwarf variety, and a pinch of Dwarf Ulm on a border or 
sunny open spot. Should Chou de Burghley also be required before 
November sow the seed now, but a month later usually answers better, 
late-raised plants producing the most compact hearts. Borecole should 
have a rather long period of growth, and the selection may well include 
Read’s Hearting, Dwarf Green Curled, Cottage, and Asparagus Kales. 
Sow the seed as advised in the case of Savoys and Cauliflowers, and if 
birds are troublesome either roll the seeds in red lead after just damping 
them, in anticipation of their attacks, or else net over after sowing. 
Broccoli need not be raised so early, the only exception being Veitch’s 
Autumn Protecting and the Purple Sprouting. Raise the requisite 
number of these at once, in the open. Lettuces, Radishes, and Turnips 
may also be sown on warm borders, and early raised plants of the former 
be pricked out and lightly sheltered for a time. Sow Celery for late 
crops. A small sowing of the improved form of Egyptian or Turnip- 
rooted Beet may be made on a warm border, but it is too soon to sow 
the main crop. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Poinsettias. —If plants that are intended to be grown for another 
year have not been cut close back they should be so treated at once. 
After cutting them back place them in an intermediate temperature 
until they break into growth. It will be wise to syringe them two or 
three times daily until they break, but too much water should not be 
applied to the roots. To increase the stock cut up portions of the stem 
2 inches in length, and insert them in 2-inch pots ; if plunged into brisk 
heat in the propagating frame they will soon commence to form roots 
and grow. This we have proved to be the best and readiest way of 
obtaining a stock of plants. 
Ewphorbia jacquin-mflora. —Cut back all plants not required to yield 
cuttings for stock and place them with Poinsettias to start into growth ; 
the same treatment will do for them very well. Those that have 
enjoyed a good season of rest may be placed in heat, when cuttings 
will be freely produced. When the young shoots are 2 to 3 inches in 
length place the plants for a fortnight in a cool airy place to harden the 
growths. Cuttings prepared on this principle and taken off where they 
issue from the old plant will root freely in heat. The cuttings should be 
inserted in sandy soil and covered with bellglasses. They are very 
liable to damp if placed in the propagating frame. Directly they are 
rooted the young plants should be potted singly and kept in heat 
until they are well established in small pots, when an intermediate 
temperature will suffice. 
Stephanotis floribunda. —Plants that are trained on trellises and 
have started into growth should, if they cannot be secured to wires, 
have strings attached and the shoots trained upon them. When planted 
out we have found it a good plan to draw the growths underneath and 
allow them to hang down. If fully exposed to the sun this checks their 
growth to some extent and they flower profusely. It is a great mistake 
to keep these plants in a very close and confined atmosphere, as they 
grow too soft to flower freely. Those planted out and not needed in 
flower by any particular time are ventilated freely during the day, and 
when they are well started into growth fire heat is gradually dis¬ 
continued until it is dispensed with entirely towards the end of May. 
Syringe the plants freely to keep down insects. Young plants should 
be repotted as they need more root room. If large plants are needed 
it is a mistake to check them during the early stages of growth. Those 
who have large specimens planted out that have become crowded may 
take down strong well-branched shoots and layer them in 10-inch 
pots. Strong plants can be obtained by this means before the end 
of the season such as it would take two or three years to grow from 
cuttings. 
Allamandas. —Those that have started into growth must be freely 
syringed, or yellow thrips will be certain to attack the young points. 
Nothing keeps these pests in check like the syringe. Young plants cut 
back that had only one stem and were intended for training to cover a 
roof should have two shoots trained up from each plant, so that they can 
be laid horizontally another year, and they will thus fill a large space on 
the roof. These plants need liberal feeding, especially those that are 
intended to flower, but do not feed them before they show their first 
flowers, or they may be induced to continue growth. 
Gardenias. —Plants that have flowered may be cut close back and 
started again into growth. Young plants should be repotted as they need 
more root room, and the shoots should be pinched from time to time as 
they need it. If large plants are desired tie out the strong shoots 
towards the rim of the pots, and the plants will throw up freely from 
the centre. If a little bottom heat can be given all the better. Be 
careful not to give them too much water at first; this often prevents 
the plants starting freely into growth after they are potted. Keep the 
plants free from scale and mealy bug, which is best accomplished by 
syringing them freely with 1 oz. of petroleum in 4 gallons of water. 
Shade the plants for a few days after syringing them until the oil has 
evaporated. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Naptiialine axd Foul Brood. 
On page 208 Mr. John M. Hooker makes some pedantic re¬ 
marks on a previous article of mine (page 73). His article occupies 
nearly a column, and with the exception of pointing out that the 
price of napthaline was quoted too high by me contains not one 
sentence of practical information. I am cognisant of the high 
profits secured by vendors of chemical preparations, and gave the 
quotation 3s. to 43., as I obtained it at the time from the nearest 
retail druggist. The letter I had from Mr. James Wilson asking 
the questions reflected so much upon the retailers of the so-called 
cure for foul brood that the Editor would not have printed it. 
The reference was to my own case. I described exactly what I 
practised, and accomplished what “ J. M. H.” would have us believe 
impossible. I had foul brood in my apiary of a very virulent nature 
about thirty years ago, and stamped it out in one season without 
losing a single bee. He surely cannot have forgotten his visit to 
me when, inter alia, I instructed him how to be successful with 
comb foundation which I had manufactured for fifteen years before 
“ J. M. H.” knew about it. I am not a youth in bee-keeping, and 
know the value of experiments too well to pooh-pooh any. I was 
the first to experiment in the propagation of the germs of foul 
brood so far back as 1858. Mention is made of one of the 
experiments with milk in the Cottage Gardener about 1862, and 
what I discovered then is simply what modernists are grappling 
with now. 
I always endeavour to trace cause and effect, and my teaching 
is founded on actual experiments. Although, fortunately, I have 
bad no opportunity of battling with the disease amongst my own 
bees for thirty years or more, I know others who have, and who 
have tried all the nostrums recommended by so-called experts, and 
not one of them succeeded in eradicating foul brood. An Inverary 
bee-keeper having somewhere about 100 hives affected wrote to the 
Editor of a contemporary for advice, received it, and put it into 
effect, the result being a complete failure. He ultimately appealed 
to me, and under my advice in a few months he had the pleasure of 
seeing his apiary free from foul brood. The result was communicated 
through me to this Journal, and direct to the Farming World from 
“A. M., Lochfyneside," as stated above. It is surely better to 
stamp out the disease on its appearance by the mode advocated in 
this Journal for upwards of thirty years and found so effectual 
everywhere it has been tried, including Canada, where it has 
become law, than to harbour it in hives on the supposition that 
any gas not injurious to bees will eradicate it. But it is better 
by far to manage hives in such a way that they will not become 
affected. 
I am perfectly aware of the infectious nature of foul brood at 
