JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 7, 1892. 
26 8 
certain stages of its existence. There is a time when it becomes 
innocuous until it is introduced into a proper nidus, which may 
be transmitted in various ways to different substances, and to 
hives at a distance. When introduced neither napthaline nor any 
other volatile substance will annihilate it without injuring the 
bees. 
If similar energetic means were taken to stamp out foul brood 
by our plan as are taken to sell nostrums, the country would soon 
be rid of the plague, at least for a time. After a hive is affected 
and all the bees are dead, other agents spring up and destroy 
the germs of foul brood. Those who keep bees and allow foul 
brood to exist are not bee-keepers in the proper sense of the 
word. It is bee-keepers themselves who allow foul brood to 
exist and spread. For forty years foul brood has never been 
absent from apiaries only a short distance away, from a few 
yards to half a mile, and I am not aware of foul brood ever 
being transmitted to my apiary from them. Not for thirty years 
have I seen a single affected cell in any of my hives. The cause of 
it in my earlier days was entirely due to overheating in railway 
vans or crowded steamers when taking them to Arran. I know full 
well the effects of and advantages of many chemicals used in 
preventing the spread of the disease, but I have yet to be con¬ 
vinced that napthaline or other things of a like nature will sup¬ 
press foul brood satisfactorily without being in direct contact. 
It is only during a short time in the whole year that it is 
advisable to feed, and foul brood spreads most rapidly during a 
high temperature when bees are breeding most, and at a time 
when feeding should not be resorted to. It will, I think, be 
conceded by most persons that Mr. Hooker’s attack in this case 
was quite uncalled for. Whenever “ J. M. H.” elucidates any¬ 
thing new and of practical utility I will pay due deference to 
him, and acknowledge with gratefulness my indebtedness. 
In conclusion, I advise him not to let foul brood run amuck 
until it smells strongly, nor until he has to adopt the novitiate 
plan of “ inserting the end of a lucifer match into the cell ” to 
detect it, but study the first symptoms by feel and eyesight. If 
only one cell presents the dark brown and slightly concave appear¬ 
ance with the clammy touch of adjoining cells, take steps to stamp 
out the disease, and he then constructs his hives in consistency 
with sanitary laws, and manages them in conformity with those 
laws, and I will guarantee that when grappled with on the lines I 
have laid down, so long his hives will have a greater chance of 
having an immunity from foul brood, with a great deal less trouble 
and with more certainty than any nostrums ever tried, most of 
which have been found wanting and abandoned, after they had 
had (as napthaline is getting) their day.—A Lanarkshire Bee¬ 
keeper. 
Napthaline and Napthol Beta. 
Since writing you respecting the above, as a cure for foul brood, 
I have made further inquiries as to the cost of the same. I now 
find that the price of napthaline is about 25s. per cwt. 
It should be used only as a disinfectant or preventive against 
foul brood by dropping one or two small pieces between the outside 
combs and the sides of the hive, on to the floor board, halfway 
along the sides, away from the entrance, and should be renewed 
from time to time, as its strength will evaporate. 
“ Napthaline ” when used as above is perfectly harmless, but 
must on no account be used in the food, either syrup or candy. 
Those whose apiaries are at present free from foul brood will do 
well to use it, particularly if living in districts where the disease is 
known to be prevalent. 
“Napthol beta” is used in very small quantities in the syrup 
or candy when making food for bees. It is much more costly 
than napthaline, yet is inexpensive to use on account of the small 
quantity required. 
Dr. Lortet’s Remedy for Foul Brood. 
“ For every pound of sugar used for making syrup or candy 
dissolve 3 grains of napthol beta crystals in alcohol or rectified 
spirits of wine. Napthol dissolves freely in alcohol, but is in¬ 
soluble in cold water. Pour juist sufficient spirits on the napthol 
to dissolve it, and make a clear liquid. Pour the solution of 
napthol into the syrup when sufficiently boiled, and of proper 
consistency, and while still hot, just before taking it off the fire.” 
The above is found to be one of the most successful remedies 
for treating foul brood, and if the napthaline is placed in the hive, 
and syrup containing napthol beta is given to the bees, and per¬ 
severed in, a cure will in most cases be effected in time. 
Bad Cases of Foul Brood. 
In very bad cases, where there is a quantity of putrid brood 
that smells very badly, no time should be lost in taking away all 
the frames of combs in the hive and burning them. If the bees 
are thought worth saving they should be driven or shaken into an 
empty skep, placed on the old stand for forty-eight hours without 
food, after which time the skep and bees should be removed, and 
a clean frame, hive, and floor board put in the old position, and 
the bees thrown from the skep on a board in front of the entrance 
to the hive, into which they will quickly run. My own practice 
has been to destroy bees, hives, frames and all as the most sure 
way of being rid of the scourge. This is best done at night by 
first suffocating the bees in the old way of sulphur pit, then 
burning the frames and combs. If the hive itself is a good one of 
modern design, and it is wished to keep it, it should be carefully 
scraped and washed with strong disinfectants, and not used again 
the same season.— John M. Hooker. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Mr. C. Turner, Royal Nurseries, Slough.— Softwooded, Greenhouse, 
and Stove Plants. 
M. Ed. Pynaert Van Geert, Ghent, Belgium.— Suj} 2 olement to General 
Catalogue. 
William Paul & Son, Waltham Cross.— Catalogue of iSew Roses and 
Florists' Flowers. 
Mr. R. Rawlings, Dahlia Nursery, Romford.— Dahlias. 
®**A11 correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor” or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. AU 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Unpruned Vines {31. G., Herts'). —It is doubtful if any application 
could prevent the bleeding of a Vine if pruned now the growth is 
starting. Much the safer plan will be to remove the buds down to the 
base of the laterals, then when those required are in full leaf the budless 
portions can be cut out. 
Training- Plum Trees {F. J.). —The trees are better trained fan¬ 
shaped than as palmette verriers. This latter form suits the Pear better 
than the Plum, for which the modified fan is the best, also for other 
stone fruits. The branches should not be less than 9 inches, and they 
need not exceed 12 inches distance asunder. 
Cheap and Good Gladioli {F. J.). —One of the best growers 
says a good dozen will be secured in Teresita, Meyerbeer, Dalila, Amitie, 
Crepuscule, Opale, Phoenix, Figaro, M. A. Brongniart, Shakespeare, 
Addison, and Cameleon. We have seen them planted from an inch to a 
foot in depth, but both are extremes. From 3 to 6 inches is a safe 
depth to cover the corms, and in a strong soil or late localities we 
prefer the former as the corms ripen better. 
Bees in Conservatory {T. J. IF.).—Your bees go into the con¬ 
servatory because of the paucity of fiowers outside. The bees lose 
themselves in not being able to distinguish the openings from the glass, 
and while attempting to go through it die from exhaustion. For 
preserving fiowers longer in bloom, and at the same time preventing 
bees being killed, some persons cover all openings used for ventilation 
with hexagon netting, which prevents bees or birds entering, and 
subdues the cold currents of air which not unfrequently injure tender 
flowers. 
IVIanure for Asparagus Beds (IF. L.). —Salt is useful for this 
plant, but not so much as a direct plant food as in attracting moisture 
and indirectly furnishing nutrition by acting on other substances in the 
soil. Soot is far more valuable as a manure, but suffers considerable loss 
of its fertilising properties in a very chalky soil, otherwise soot, guano, 
and sulphate of ammonia are the most suitable manures for Asparagus. 
You may use nitrate of soda at the rate of 1 oz. per square yard, but it is 
best to apply it at twice, and half quantity only each time, say early in. 
April and about the second week in May. A third dressing to help the 
growth for another year may be applied about the middle of J une. There 
is great waste in using ammoniacal manures on “ very chalky soil.” 
