304 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 21, 1892. 
blooms much superior to many seen in first prize stands. Har- 
palium rigidum was a conspicuous feature in the borders, and so 
were Asters of the large flowering type. The bright colours of these 
below contrasted well with the yellow Harpalium, the luxuriant vege¬ 
tables behind, and the well-kept grass in front. Where cut flowers are 
required in quantity such a border as this must help greatly for many 
months in the year. All the paths in the kitchen garden are of grass 
beautifully kept, and I daresay they have a very pleasing appearance 
during fine weather ; but, unfortunately, my visit was made during a 
heavy downpour of rain, therefore I saw them at their worst. I prefer 
a combination of grass and gravel paths in a kitchen garden. The soil 
is a stiff loam approaching clay, and if well managed it is very fertile. 
Abundance of decomposed leaves and horse manure is most suitable 
for soil of this class, and seasonable manipulation not forgotten. Heavy 
cowdung and trampling upon it during wet weather I should say 
is about the worst form of management sueh a soil could receive. 
Judging from the crops of all kinds, that is not the treatment accorded 
to this garden. Large breadths of the most popular and useful 
vegetables were growing, every one seemingly planted or sown in the 
exact place and manner desirable to reap the best results. Space forbids 
any one kind being particularised, and it would be difficult where all are 
good. 
The glass department, although not very extensive, is thoroughly 
well adapted to its requirements, the houses being well placed and 
contiguous to each other in two blocks. The vineries are not lofty 
structures, but are of the right kind for conserving the heat, being of 
lean-to form. From the appearance of the wood the Vines in the early 
house had carried a good crop of fruit. Successional houses were all 
that could be desired—especially a late house, in which were several 
rods of Muscat Alexandria. Peaches and Nectarines betokened, by 
the wood and leaves of the trees from which the crops had been 
gathered, that they left nothing to be desired for future promi e. 
Violette Hdtive of the former fruit and Lord Napier Nectarine were 
both numerous and good. Very healthy Fig trees filled the front of 
one lean-to house, with Peaches covering the back wall in rude health, 
showing that a combination in fruit culture can be efficiently 
carried out. 
Two ranges of low span-roofed houses were devoted to such crops as 
Melons, Cucumbers, and stove plants. In the former Hero of Lockinge 
and Syon House were the most conspicuous. Handsome fruits there 
were; it would be almost impossible to be otherwise, considering the 
state of the foliage, the soil being evidently well adapted to Melon 
growing. The stove plants were of the usual kind, small and medium 
sized, suitable for home decoration rather than for exhibition, although 
some are grown which take leading prizes at local shows. I noticed 
a capital stock Caladium argyrites in small pots, one of the most 
useful of an extensive family for grouping purposes or small vases. 
Many of the new and approved varieties of Crotons were growing ; 
single-stemmed plants, with highly coloured leaves, fit for any kind of 
decorative work. Calanthes, mainly C. Veitchi, are largely and well 
grown ; their use for winter flowering is here so well known that special 
attention is given them. A thousand Strawberries in pots are annually 
forced, consisting of leading varieties, with a few of Noble, which is 
here a success. 
Chrysanthemums have a place assigned them in this liberally kept 
and well-managed garden ; 300 plants are cultivated for producing large 
blooms, besides many others as deeorative plants, all of which betokened 
by their appearance that nothing Chrysanthemums require is here 
lacking. The gardens altogether reflect great credit on their custodian 
Mr. Bowerman, who, I was sorry to find, had been compelled to leave 
home for a time owing to illness, which all connected with him, from 
employer to labourer, deeply deplored.—E. M. 
WOKK.Fo^'nffiWEEK.. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Earliest Forced Houses. — Cease 
syringing the very early varieties, Alexander, Waterloo, Early Beatrice, 
Early Louise, and Early Rivers as soon as the fruit gives indications 
of ripening. Do not supply water excessively at the roots, yet main¬ 
tain the soil in a moist healthy condition, and afford moderate air 
moisture by damping available surfaces occasionally. Hale’s Early, 
Royal George, and Stirling Castle will need liberal supplies of water 
and, perhaps, nourishment to swell their fruits well. Where the, 
crop is too heavy thin the fruits, for it is not the flesh but the 
stones that exhaust the trees. Tie the shoots well in, so as to give 
the fruit the benefit of all the sun and air possible and insure its 
colouring, drawing aside the leaves that shade it. Take every pre¬ 
caution to have the foliage free from insects before syringing ceases, 
applying an insecticide if there is any trace of spider, syringing forcibly 
afterwards. 
Trees Started at the New Year. —Do not hurry the trees until tbf 
stoning is completed, making sure of that by trying a few fruits with? 
knife. Continue the temperature regular at 60° to 65° by night, anc. 
70° to 75° by day, until the stoning is completed, then, if the ripeningis 
desired to be accelerated, it may be kept at 70° to 75° artificially, but 
falling 5° at night, and keeping through the day at 80° to 85° from sun 
heat. Close sufficiently early in the afternoon to run the temperature 
up to 90° or 95°, with plenty of atmospheric moisture, syringing early 
enough to have the foliage fairly dry before night, and admitting 
air early so as to let the pent-up moisture escape before the sun acts 
powerfully on the leaves. Afford copious supplies of water to the roots 
and liquid manure if necessary, with a light mulching of spent manure. 
Let the fruits have all the light possible, placing them with the apex to 
the light, drawing the leaves aside or shortening them. Thin finally 
directly the fruit has stoned. Secure the growths as they advance, 
keeping them thin. 
Houses Started Early in Fehruary. —With the fruits the size of 
Walnuts the thinning should be effected to a few more than will be 
required for the crop. Encourage no more shoots than are necessary 
to furnish the trees with next year’s bearing wood and extension growths. 
Pinch the shoots retained to attract the sap to the fruit at two or three 
joints, and to one afterwards as produced. Allow all plenty of light, 
for the solidity of the wood depends on the fibrous nature of the roots 
and the exposure of the growth to light. Ventilate early, commencing 
at 65°, and increase it with the sun heat, having it full at 70° to 75°. 
Maintain a temperature of 55° to 60° at night, and 60° to 65° by day 
artificially. 
Trees Started in March. —When the Peaches are fairly swelling 
remove the superfluous fruits, beginning with those on the back or 
under side of the trellis, then proceed with the rest when it 
is seen which take the lead in swelling, removing those not wanted 
gradually. Follow up disbudding until the growths are removed to 
the number required, always reserving a shoot at the base of the 
current bearing wood, leaving those on extensions 15 to 18 inches 
apart, and allowing that distance between the extensions. Retain a 
shoot on a level with or above the fruit, and, if not wanted for exten¬ 
sion, pinch out its point at the third leaf, and to every succeeding joint 
of growth. Train all other shoots in their full length as far as space 
permits, keeping them secured to the trellis, with ample space in the 
ties for the growth to swell. A temperature of 55° at night, and 5° to 
10° advance in the daytime is sufficient, ventilating freely above 65°. 
Syringe twice a day in favourable weather, but once only when dull, 
and keep the borders well supplied with water, never letting the roots 
lack moisture. 
Late Houses. —The trees are a pleasant sight, and the odour is 
significant of a good set. Bees abound in the houses and brush the 
flowers over with results alike beneficial to the grower and the apiarian. 
A little fire heat to maintain a day temperature of 50° to 55° insures 
advancement, admitting a little air top and bottom, so as to promote a 
circulation. A chink at night is also beneficial, excluding frost by 
maintaining the temperature at 40° to 45°. Admit air freely at and 
above 55°, not allowing the temperature to exceed 65° without full 
ventilation. A genial condition of the atmosphere can be maintained by 
damping the borders and other available surfaces occasionally, but 
avoid making the atmosphere so humid that moisture condenses on the 
blossoms during the night. 
Unheated Houses or Wall Cases. —In these the chief points are to 
secure a well-ventilated atmosphere in the early part of the day, and to 
have the border well supplied with moisture, but not needlessly wetting 
the surface, which is best rather dry, especially towards evening, as it 
attracts moisture in that state, closing the house before the temperature 
is much reduced, so as to enclose a moderate amount of sun heat. 
About 5 P.M. is usually sufficiently early to close the house for the 
day, as walls give out heat some time after closing, generally sufficient 
to insure the safety of the blossoms if it is kept dry. Damping or 
watering should be done in the morning, so that superfluous water 
may be dissipated. 
Melons. —Secure every ray of light to plants swelling their fruits 
by keeping the glass clean, and supply water liberally to the roots, or 
liqirid manure, providing plenty of atmospheric moisture. Overcropping 
not only renders the fruits small, but prejudices the quality, which is 
proportionate to the amount of solidified matter, and its transformation 
in ripening. This is best effected by a somewhat dry and warm 
atmosphere, with diminished supplies of water at the roots ; but there 
must not be any deficiency until the fruit commences ripening, and not 
then if the plants are to continue for a second crop. A little air con¬ 
stantly will keep the fruit steadily ripening. During the setting of the 
fruits a drier condition of the atmosphere and soil is advisable, but the 
soil must not become so dry as to cause the foliage to flag. Attend 
daily to setting the flowers, stopping the growths as the flowers are 
fertilised. Keep the temperature at 65° to 70° at night, 70° to 75° by 
day artificially, and between 80° and 90° with sun heat, ventilating 
carefully at all times, avoiding sudden fluctuations in the moisture and 
of temperature. 
Plants in pits and frames are showing fruit, and, unless they are 
sufficiently numerous to insure two to four fruits on a plant setting 
about the same time, it is desirable to remove the first flowers, as with 
more shoots there will be no difficulty in securing five or six female 
blossoms of simultaneous growth on each plant, which should be 
