806 
JOURNAL OF hORTIGULTURE ANB COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 21, 1892. 
Punic Bees. 
The past winter here has been very trying to bees. The 
continuous foggy days during frost were too much for most races. 
Many stocks died from the cold damp weather, with plenty of 
stores. In my own apiary only those with Punic blood have 
wintered satisfactorily. Stocks with imported queens have wintered 
splendidly, though they come from a country where frost and snow 
are unknown. They were confined to their hives for six months, 
and made their first flight on March 16th ; that is longer than I 
ever knew bees to be confined to their hives. They came out as 
dry and healthy as possible, there being no sign of dysentery or 
anything, and in two days were bringing in pollen. 
There is one peculiarity about Punics that I have often 
noticed. In winter time and cold weather the aged bees—the 
old worn out bees—die in the hive instead of flying off a distance 
away to die. As every pure stock shows this peculiarity I must 
now accept it as a habit of the race. What the cause of it can 
be is yet only conjecture. I am inclined to think that our weather 
is too cold for them to fly away. Lanarkshire ” noticed the 
peculiarity as soon as cold weather set in last autumn, and wrote 
me to ask if I had not made a mistake in saying they were 
“ hardy.” I assured him the bees were the old worn out ones, and 
I did not feel alarmed. Their wintering proves that they are 
undoubtedly very “ hardy ” bees ; also the way they work in cold 
chilly weather. I am more in love with them than ever, and I am 
so well satisfied that they will please all who try them, that I 
decided to sell every queen on the unheard of condition, that if 
after trial the race is not liked all money paid will be refunded in 
full—the buyers to be their own and sole judges. 
There is another important fact to remember—viz , that with 
all the opposition about Punics not one person has condemned 
them, that is the true Punics. This fact speaks volumes for the 
value of the race.—A Hallaaishire Bee-keeper. 
Experience. 
The few lines that I have written from time to time in the 
Journal of Horticulture I intend should be useful to bee-keepers. 
Having kept bees since I was seventeen years old, and being now 
over sixty, I may, I think, be considered to have had some amount 
of experience in the matter. I have in open competition gained 
many prizes both for honey and hives, and held my own against 
all comers. In recommending anything to bee-keepers I know 
only their interest ; I have no axe of my own to grind, and do not 
desire to raise a controversy as a means of advertising any par¬ 
ticular article or kind of bee, or of assisting any other persons 
to prop up anything they have written.— John M. Hooker. 
COMB FOUNDATION. 
On page 2G7 “ Lanarkshire ” reminds me of a very pleasant visit to 
Glasgow, in the year 1876 I think, to an exhibition of hives and honey. 
The day after the finish of the show Mr. Bennett, Mr. C. N. Abbott, 
Mr. Alfred Neighbour, and myself paid a visit to “Lanarkshire” at 
Blantyre. He was not at home when we arrived, but his daughter was 
sent after him and he was soon with us. We were most hospitably 
received, and after some refreshment we were shown the bees and hives, 
and had the manner in which he worked them explained to us ; but 1 
have no reeollection of anything being said about foul brood, or that he 
had it in any of his hives at that time. The conversation naturally 
turned to the show, and the fine Stewarton supers exhibited there, 
which had been built out on comb foundation. I then spoke of the 
foundation exhibited by “ Lanarkshire,” and expressed surprise that he 
did not obtain a prize, as in appearance I thought it equal to any there. 
At that time the guides I had used were simply thin pieces of wax sheet, 
not impressed. Seeing that I was interested “ Lanarkshire ” kindly 
made me a present of comb foundation bees and all, just as he had it 
back from the show. 
The first opportunity I had I fixed it in a shallow super and put it 
on a very strong hive, but to my surprise the bees did not work in it. 
It was taken oft at the end of the season, and it had not been touched. 
The following year I put it on another hive, but the bees would not take 
to the super, although very strong, which I could not understand at all. 
After a while the bees took to the super and filled it, but they had built 
between the comb foundation, which had become very hard, and they 
had not touched it. I kept this as a curiosity for several years, during 
which time I showed it to many well-known bee-keepers, among others 
Mr. Baldwin, Mr. Abbott, Mr. Neighbour, Mr. J. Hunter, and Mr. Cowan. 
The sheets of foundation formed separators between the honeycombs. 
The general opinion was that something had been mixed with the wax 
that the bees disliked. Soon after this I obtained a machine for making 
foundation from Mr. A. J. Root, and for awhile made my own founda¬ 
tion ; but not having much time on my hands I sold it to Messrs. 
Neighbour, who have since supplied me with foundation such as the 
bees build out readily. I was not aware that foundation was used or 
made fifteen years before 1876. Is this so ? 
In any statement as to articles that appeared in the Journal of 
Horticulture “ years ago ” it would save your readers time and trouble 
if in all cases the year and page were stated.— John M. Hooker, 
•^®A11 correspondence should be directed either to “ Thb 
Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened 
onavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications- 
IVXanures (^Constant Reader'). —The advice was good, even if it 
“surprised” you. Your letter arrived too late for the questions to 
be answered this week. 
Improvlngr liand (A. A).—Your object in cultivating a small 
freehold as thoroughly and profitably as possible is unquestionably 
good, and we shall be pleased to give you the best advice we can on 
matters on which you need information. Your letter shall have early 
attention. 
liow Hedge (F. J.). —Green or variegated Box would answer your 
purpose, and shrubs 18 inches high would grow well now if the roots 
were not dried in transit and a good watering given when planted. 
They should just touch when planted. Send the length of the hedge to 
a nurseryman, stating that you require well furnished shrubs, and he 
will send the requisite number. The hedge can be kept of the height 
and shape described by clipping with the shears. August is a good time 
for the last trimming. 
Stachys tuberifera (F. E. C.). —We are not aware of the existence 
of an improved variety with considerably enlarged tubers. Selected 
tubers can be had from any dealer that will afford produce as large as 
the soil and methods of culture allow. This vegetable, though enjoyed 
by several consumers, is not likely to prove a “ boon ” to the community 
in any district. It is more of a novelty than a substantial food pro¬ 
duct. If “ D. S.,” to whom you allude, likes to send us a few of his 
very large tubers we will say how far they exceed in size others we 
have seen. 
Ferns In Case Moulding {R. B.). —The cause of the fronds 
moulding is the atmosphere being too eonfined. They should have a 
little air, and the moisture should be wiped off the glass once a day in 
the morning, or air may be given to dry it up. The case should be 
opened a little—half an inch or so at top—so as to allow of a change of 
atm; sphere. In other respects we think your arrangements and 
management good. Of the Ferns in your list the Gymnogrammas, 
Cheilanthes, and Nothochlsenas are not suitable. They require just the 
reverse of a close confined atmosphere, though they flourish in one that 
is moist. The others ought to do well. 
Grafting Fuchsias {Amateur). —The Fuchsia may be grafted at 
any time, and almost in any manner, when heat, moisture, and a little 
shade can be given, and the wood used is thoroughly ripened. The stock 
should be beginning to grow, and be in advance of the scion in growth. 
The scion should just be breaking its buds, and the wood should be well 
ripened. Young wood will do very well if pretty strong ; but a good 
plan is to use some 2 inches of a young shoot, with about I 5 inch of the 
older wood behind it, making a slice long enough in the s’de of the shoot 
to place the old and part of the new wood on it. The slice from stock 
and scion must be taken off with a clean sharp knife. Tie carefully with 
bast, make it air-tight with a little clay, cover with a little moss, and 
damp that frequently. 
Hadlstaes and Mustard and Cress {J. Bannister). —Radishes 
like a free, rich, but not recently manured soil. We have known good 
crops produced on the same ground for years, but it has been liberally 
manured after the Radishes were drawn for the crop succeeding. A 
mixture of two parts of superphosphate of lime and one part of nitrate 
of soda applied at the rate of 3 ozs. to each square yard when sowing or 
soon afterwards has a stimulating effect. The dressing would also be 
good for Mustard and Cress, but this ought not to be grown on the 
same plot every year, unless very full dressings of decayed manure are 
afforded and kept near the surface. Many Radish crops are prejudiced 
by sowing the seed too thickly. Overcrowding the plants is fatal to 
profitable crops, while thinning is a tedious process, and can only be 
regarded as the lesser of two evils. 
Fruit Room {E. G. K.). — The thicker the walls the more 
equable will be the temperature of the house. We would have them 
14 inches thick, but they need not be hollow walls ; a thatched roof is 
also preferable to one composed of tiles. The floor would be better 
boarded, but it is not very material. The best arrangement for the 
shelves is a staging of laths, similar to that used to stage plants 
upon in greenhouses. One tier of staging may be placed above 
another, about 1 foot 9 inches apart, and the staging may be 3 feet 
