Aj)rU 28, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
313 
thrive in almost any soil, therefore might well fill up waste patches 
in fields or odd corners in gardens. Dr. Lettsom chronicled the 
fact that in 1790 few gardeners near London grew Seakale, though 
easy to cultivate and very productive. But only about thirty years 
before a bundle sent to Covent Garden, which had lost its label, 
was actually put aside as an unknown plant. Up to 1790 only two 
kinds of Celery—one red, one white—were cultivated in England, 
several others came in soon after that date from Italy or Spain. 
About 1781 the Swede is stated to have been brought from Gotten- 
burg by a Scotchman named Knox, and its hardiness was soon 
appreciated, also the excellence of its tops. It was about this 
time that there was a great prevalence of the malady called 
ambury, or “ fingers and toes,” amongst the Turnip crops, and a 
misapprehension existed that this was the work of an insect, 
though really caused by poverty of the soil. The Parsnip was a 
•vegetable regarded with disfavour through the greater part of 
■the reign of George III.—J. R. S. C. 
THE POINSETTIA. 
The time of year has arrived when preparations must be made 
for insuring a display of this valuable decorative plant in due 
season, and as I have cultivated Poinsettias for several years a few 
details of my practice may possibly be useful to some readers. 
The Poinsettia belongs to the natural order Euphorbiace^. It 
was introduced from Mexico in 1834, and named in honour of 
M. Poinsette, a French botanist. 
Poinsettias may be fairly described as the most brilliant of 
winter decorative plants, yet we do not find them grown so well 
as they deserve to be. During thtir growing period we sometimes 
■find them crowded amongst stove or greenhouse plants, and the 
foliage then is sure to fail, except a few leaves on the top of the 
plant. It is almost needless for me to say that this is not the 
proper way to grow Poinsettias. Foliage to the base of the stems 
represents good cultivation. 
There are two methods of growing these plants—namely, 
(1) according them cool treatment, and (2) providing a high 
temperature. I have tried both, and give my vote in favour of 
the former. When grown cool the plants do not become so tall, 
the wood ripens better, and they produce finer bracts than under 
the other conditions. I do not say they cannot be grown in more 
heat, because they can, but it requires a very skilful cultivator to 
produce equally satisfactory results. 
Poinsettias are easily propagated by cuttings taken from the old 
plants. This should be done as.early in the year as possible, as 
more time is then afforded for ripening the wood. After the 
cuttings have been taken insert them in a small pot with no crocks 
in it, and only a little rough leaf soil at the bottom. Use good 
sandy soil, in fact they will strike very well in sand alone. After 
insertion give them a gentle yet good watering, and place them in 
the propagating pit, or in a close frame in the stove, where they 
will soon root. When they have rooted take them out of the 
frame, and leave them in the house for a few days, when they 
will be ready to be potted off in large 60’s. The compost for 
this potting should be three parts loam, and one of leaf soil 
and sand. When potted they should be placed on a shelf close 
to the glass in a temperature of 65° to 70°, and well syringed on 
bright days. 
As soon as the pots are filled with roots they should be 
transferred to their final pots — viz., 48's and 32's, using a 
compost of two-thirds loam and one-third of leaf soil, cow manure, 
and sand, with a dash of soot. In these pots they will make useful 
plants for general decorative purposes. When potted they should 
go back into the same temperature for a few days till they are 
well established, and then they should be taken to a frame where 
they can be placed close to the glass to keep them dwarf. They 
should be gradually hardened until they can stand in the open 
frame day and night, but during very bright days it is best to shade 
them from the hot sun, as they are apt to have their leaves scorched. 
When the days are shortening and the cold nights come on the 
lights had better be put on, and kept on during dull sunless 
days, only being taken off during bright sunny weather. During 
the whole of their growing period they must not suffer by 
want of water, for no plants will show ill treatment in this 
respect more clearly than the Poinsettias. They should be 
encouraged with weak liquid manure, a dose of fish manure, or 
Clay’s fertiliser. 
As the season advances and frosts are likely to occur it will be 
safer to take the plants from the frame and put them in a house 
with a temperature of about 45° to 50° at night. Keep them well 
syringed, and after a time the bracts will begin to show. During 
the growing period perhaps some of them will evince a desire to 
grow too tall for general purposes ; when this is the case I have 
seen the following plan used with a fair amount of success •—Cut 
them half way through, about 4 or 5 inches from the top, and 
leave them for a few days until they have callused, when they 
should be severed from the plant, and placed in small GO’s in a 
propagating pit. After a short time pot them into 48’3 ; they will 
form sturdy plants. 
When the plants are in flower they enliven the stove with 
their brightly coloured bracts, and for Christmas decoration in 
churches and hous:s they cannot be excelled. It is true they look 
stiff, but that can be remedied by tying a piece of black cotton to 
the bract, gently pulling it down and tying it to the stem. When 
the plants are in bloom care should be taken to select the best to 
save for propagation. 
There is a white one, a variety of P. pulcherrima, but it is more 
a novelty than anything, and th^re is also a double variety named 
P. pulcherrima plenissima.—H. K. 
ORNAMENTAL GRASSES. 
These deserve to be much more extensively grown than they 
are at present, considering that th^y are so well adapted for 
decorative work of many kinds, and for iooparting lightness to 
bedding arrangements. Many of our common field Grasses are 
well adapted for mixing with cut flowers, but they cannot 
easily be obtained during the latter part of the summer, and, 
moreover, they do not possess so much variety in form and 
habit of growth as do many of the continental kinds, seed of which 
may be obtained very cheaply from British seedsmen. 
These fine Grasses may be cultivated in a variety of ways. 
Patches sown at intervals in mixed borders give but little 
trouble, and are very effective. Where wanted solely for cutting 
purposes it is best to devote a border or strip of ground in the 
reserve garden entirely to them, in which case they may be sown 
in rows 1 foot apart. In our own case we prefer to forward them 
by sowing in a rough frame covered with old lights, and eventually 
to transplant them in clumps to the many positions where they 
are required, because, on account of the space being at present 
filled with spring flowering plants, sowing in their permanent 
positions is not practicable. Many of the medium and tall growers 
are well suited for growing in pots for room decoration. For this 
purpose they should be sown thinly in the pots they are to occupy 
throughout the season. 
For whatever purpose they are required it is necessary to have 
some knowledge of the height the various kinds attain. I will 
therefore select some of the most useful among them, give a brief 
description, and note the height to which they grow. From the 
present time to the second week in May is a capital period during 
which to sow. 
Agrostis laxiflora, A. nebulosa (Cloud Grass), and A. pulchella 
are light feathery kinds, the first-named growing to a height of 
1 foot, the second 18 inches, and the last-named 9 inches. 
Anthoxanthum gracile is useful for arranging with flowers in 
glasses, and is much employed for winter bouquets. Briza 
geniculata (Spreading Quaking Grass), 1 foot ; B. minor (Small 
Quaking Grass), 9 inches ; and B. maxima (Large Quaking Grass), 
1 foot, are well known Grasses, and are particularly useful for the 
many purposes already pointed out. Their panicles of drooping, 
oblong flowers are both peculiar and attractive. 
Bromus brizaeformis, 2 feet, is a handsome biennial Grass of 
drooping habit. The flowers are produced in panicles somewhat 
similar to those of the Brizas. Coix lachryma (Job’s Tears) 
2 feet, is a half-hardy annual, especially useful for arranging in 
large trumpet-shaped glasses. Eragrostis elegans, 1 foot, is light 
and feathery in appearance. Hordeum jubatum (bearded) Squirrel- 
tail, 2 feet, thrives in any poor soil, and, as it belongs to the same 
genus as the Barley grown for agricultural purposes, which it 
greatly resembles in habit of growth, readers will at once recognise 
it to be of much decorative value. Lagurus ovatus (Hare’s-tail) 
1 foot, is one of the most striking of Grasses for growing in 
clumps, its ovate spikes of woolly flowers being distinct and 
beautiful. Paspalum elegans and Pennisetura longistylum grow 
18 inches high. The latter is very elegant and effective, being 
well adapted for clumps. Stipa pennata also grows 18 inches high. 
The graceful stems of this beautiful Grass are feathered more than 
half their length, and are much used in a dried state. Few Grasses 
are more generally admired. 
Wherever cut flowers are in great demand a collection of 
Grasses, including those enumerated, should be grown annually, 
as a very small amount of labour and expense is involved in 
their culture, and there are few plants more thoroughly useful, 
interesting, and beautiful.—H. Dunkin. 
