April 28, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
mence growing early thinning is advantageous, removing those not 
wanted and planting elsewhere. 
Strawberries. —In forward situations Strawberries arc showing 
flower trusses, which will advance rapidly. Moist weather affords a 
suitable opportunity to give the plants a dressing of some artificial 
manure. ^ Guano, at the rate of 1 lb. per rod, mixing it before 
distribution with six times its bulk of soil, or preferably burnt refuse or 
fine charcoal, which contain no seed of weeds, may be applied now. 
Native guano is not so strong as Peruvian, and can be applied at the 
rate of 5 or 6 lbs. per rod. Soot is excellent dusted between the plants, 
making the soil black ; it destroys small slugs and improves the colour 
of the foliage. Any of these can be applied before the mulching of 
strawy farmyard material is placed between the rows, which ought to be 
done before the flowers advance and the foliage spreads too far. By 
applying the mulchiiig in good time its virtues are carried down to the 
roots, ready to be of oenefit to the fruit as well as conserving moisture 
in the soil. In addition the manure becomes sufficiently washed to 
form a clean base for the fruit to rest upon. Any further help the 
plants need can be given in the form of liquid manure during the 
swelling of the fruit. 
Gooseberries and Currants. —Keep the ground among these 
clean by repeated hoeing in dry weather, or, if not already done, 
^PPv ^ niulching over the roots as far as the branches extend of rich 
manure. As soon as aphides or caterpillars appear syringe the trees 
wito a solution of softsoap and quassia chips ; 6 lbs. of softsoap dissolved 
m fifty gallons of water with the extract from 2 lbs. of quassia chips 
boiled will destroy both. Hellebore powder effectually destroys cater¬ 
pillars whenever it touches them, but being poisonous it must be 
syringed off again with clear water. 
Disbudding. — Apricots need the earliest attention. Kemove 
gradually all superfluous shoots, retaining the best placed, but 
dispense with all foreright shoots, also gross and watery growths. 
As the Apricot bears on spurs of older wood as well as on the previous 
year s shoots, a larger number of current growths can be retained, but 
not so as to injuriously crowd the trees. These should be pinched to 
three leaves before they attain an undue length. According to the 
weather continue to disbud Peaches and Nectariniis. During cold 
periods very little attention is needed, but when the days and nights 
are warm and moist growth proceeds rapidly. It is then necessary to 
be on the alert so that shoots do not become too long before removal. 
Foreright shoots remove as soon as noticed, rubbing them off with finger 
and thumb, as cutting back when longer only results in further growth. 
Leave the best placed shoots as may be required for furnishing the 
trees, choosing those near the base. Begin the work of disbudding in 
parts of the trees as a rule, but have an eye to all other parts 
at the same time. Shoots bearing young fruit require shortening to a 
point above three or four well-developed leaves. Weak branches in any 
part of a tree may be materially strengthened by allowing one or two 
more succession shoots. Aphides or red spider becoming troublesome 
must quickly be destroyed by syringing the trees in warm dry weather 
with lukewarm water, or with a similar solution to that recommended 
for Gooseberries. 
Watering Fruit Trees. —Many trees, especially those growing 
against walls, become a prey to insect pests and general debility through 
^ck of moisture and nourishment at the roots. This must be remedied 
first by loosening the soil, then applying clear water copiously, followed 
by free applications of liquid manure. One or two more applications may 
be necessary before the soil is thoroughly moistened. When this is 
accomplished mulch over the roots with manure, also see that newly 
planted trees are moist. ^ 
FRUIT FORCING. 
lojYly Souses. —Grapes now colouring fast will require 
abundance of warm air by day and night, with plenty of atmospheric 
moisture, damping the walls, paths, and mulching. This assists the 
Grapes in swelling and preserves the foliage in healta. A careful 
examination of the inside borders should be made, and if they are dry a 
liberal application of tepid liquid manure will be a powerful aid to the 
Vines. Gradually reduce the night temperature as the Grapes ripen, 
keeping the atmosphere dry and cool, but guard against excessive dryness, 
as early Grapes with ventilation require much more water at the roots 
than late ones, with moderate air moisture for the benefit of the foliao-e, 
which must be kept clean and healthy as long as possible. When 
approaching ripeness moderate fire heat will be required to keep up a 
temperature of 60° at night and a little more in the daytime. Gradually 
remove the fermenting materials from outside borders, leaving a 
mulching of some that is partially decayed for the protection of the 
surface root^and allow them to have the benefit of summer rains, which 
will \vash the fertilising elements of the manure into the soil, and 
stimulate the Vines into the production of new laterals after they are 
relieved of the crop, which tends to the health of the principal 
leaves. ^ 
Midseason Souses.—MtQnd to thinning the free setting varieties as 
soon as the berries are set, but Muscats and other shy-setting kinds 
should be left until the properly fertilised berries take the lead. If a 
large percentage of the surplus bunches were not cut off before they 
flowered no time must be lost in getting them removed ; and laterals 
that have been allowed to ramble may be stopped, tied, and regulated in 
accordance with the space at command. Inside borders may have a 
thorough supply of tepid liquid manure, and a mulching of short rather 
lumpy manure. It is well to use sweetened horse droppings and spread 
them over the whole surface in order to afford the Vines the benefit of 
an ammonia-charged atmosphere, adding a few fresh droppings from 
but care must be taken not to overdo it, or the ammonia 
will be too powerful for the tender foliage of the Vines. Where the 
ines need extra support a liberal dressing of artificial manure may be 
given with great benefit, but it is necessary to carefully‘follow the in- 
structions. Phosphatic and potassic elements, with lime in sulphate 
torm, are those chiefly required by Vines. 
Late Sotises.—The weather has been unusually cold for early April, 
and the Vines are somewhat late, but they are now making good progress. 
There are, however, complaints of bad breaks, which mainly arise from 
imperfect ripening of the wood, and the production of tendrils or loose 
bunches may be attributed to the same cause. In order to prevent bad 
breaking and the disposition to run into tendrils, the late Vines should 
be started earlier, and be ripened with more fire heat in late summer, so 
as to secure thoroughly finished fruit and perfectly matured wood. 
Various expedients are resorted to for correcting the evil, none being 
better than stopping the shoots three or four joints beyond the fruit, 
tying the growths down to the wires. Choose the latter part of a fine 
day for this operation, when they are limp, keeping them rather drier 
and warmer by day. Gros Colman and other late free-setting Grapes 
should now be setting, they will then have all the summer before them. 
These Grapes require more water and a longer time to grow and perfect 
than other Grapes. Muscats and other shy-setting varieties should be 
carefully fertilised, operating on fine days when the temperature has 
reached its maximum, employing pollen from free-setting varieties, and 
maintaining a brisk rather dry atmosphere. A temperature of 70° at 
night and 75° by day is not too much for Muscats when flowering. It is 
usual to leave surplus bunches until the flowering is over which is a 
mistake, as Vines that do not set a proper number of bunches satis¬ 
factorily are not likely to do so better when more are left; in fact, it is 
wise to make a selection of the bunches that are to remain for the crop 
before they come into flower, remembering that big and loose bunches 
are worst for finish, and the medium-sized and compact the best for 
ripening w^ell and keeping. 
Late Samburghs. —These are moving rapidly and need attention in 
disbudding, tying down, and regulating the growths. Do not stop the 
shoots until they are developed beyond the fruit to the extent of two 
joints where the space is limited, and four where there is room, pinching 
laterals below the bunch to one leaf. Above allow them to extend so as 
to insure an even spread of foliage over the space, but no more than can 
have exposure to light, afterwards keeping closely pinched. Ventilate 
early and freely, so as to insure short-jointed sturdy wood and thick 
leathery foliage. Avoid overwatering the border, as a saturated con¬ 
dition of the soil is not favourable to root action, but keep it moist, 
especially any top-dressing or light mulching, so as to encourage surface 
roots. If a few fresh droppings from the stables are sprinkled on the 
border occasionally some ammonia will be given off, and other manurial 
matter will enter the border from them at each watering. 
Sewly Planted Vines.—When the Vines take to the fresh soil they 
will indicate it by growing freely. To secure sturdy growth ventilate 
early, encouraging laterals in preference to mere elongation of the cane 
letting all the growth remain that can have full exposure to light! 
Supernumeraries intended for next year’s fruiting should have the 
laterals pinched at the first leaf, afterwards allowing them to make a 
few joints of growth, and pinching the cane at 8 to 9 feet of growth. 
Take every possible care of the leaves on the cane, not allowing them 
to be interfered with in any way by the laterals. Close early, with 
plenty of atmospheric moisture. 
Strawberries in Pots. — Forcing these plants in vineries and 
Peach houses is apt to transmit red spider to the Vines and Peach trees. 
This is a serious matter, and danger must be averted by removing 
infested plants to other quarters, where they can be properly syringed 
and duly supplied with water. Regard must also be had to a succession 
of plants, and crops that are ripening may be retarded in various ways 
for several days in case an extra supply is required for particular 
occasions. The expedients are turning the fruits away from the sun, 
shifting the plants to a north house, and removing the plants into an 
airy fruit room or cool shed after the fruits are fully ripe. Much can be 
done at this season in cold frames with judicious management. All 
plants that can be accommodated in cold or slightly heated pits should 
have their flower trusses thinned out to the requisite number. Place 
them near the glass, leaving room for a circulation of air between the 
glass and the leaves of the plants. The most forward plants from these 
structures can always be picked to take the places of those that are ripe 
and ripening. Liquid manure should be given to plants swelling their 
crops at every alternate watering, taking care not to give it too strong, 
and always tepid. Plants in span-roofed frames, intended to perfect 
their crops there, should have the pots plunged in ashes near the glass 
yet sufficiently far from it to be clear in leaves and trusses, admitting 
air freely, and keeping a sharp look out for slugs. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Messrs. G. Bunyard & Co., Maidstone.— Serhaceous Plants, I'ot 
Roses, Bedding Plants, Creepers, S)C. 
Messrs. W. Clibran & Son, Oldfield Nurseries, Altrincham.— Indoor 
and Outdoor Plants, Ferns, Roses, and Florists' Flowers. 
Messrs. Reid & Bornemann, Trewsbury Road, Sydenham, London, 
S.B.— Chrysanthemums, Pcdargonhims, Dahlias, Begonias, Roses, 
Herr Oscar Tiefenthal, Wandsbek.— Plants (jyubushed m 
Germaii), 
