May 5, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
843 
liand, tracing the shoots down to the roots, and either cutting, or better 
still, twisting them off, then returning the soil, is short and the superior 
produce more than repays for expending it. Newly cut Asparagus is the 
most tender and succulent when cooked, standing the bundles for some 
hours or days in pans of water having a hardening effect. It is 
advisable, however, to keep well established beds closely cut, large and 
small shoots being alike removed, the latter if left only forming small 
basal buds, and to sort over, bundle up neatly and to stand either on 
damp moss or in shallow pans of water in a cool place. Never mix large 
and small together and thereby spoil the appearance of the whole, but 
reserve the small for soups. 
Youno Asparagus Beds. —It is most unwise to commence cutting 
from beds that were formed since, say, the spring of 1890, and in not a 
few cases it pays well ^o let the plants have three clear seasons growth 
prior to cutting from them. They ought to be assisted in making an 
early and strong growth, with a view to building up crowns capable of 
yielding the finest produce when the time has arrived for cutting. 
Starting with two-year-old, or even older roots, does not greatly advance 
matters, for the simple reason that younger plants not unfrequently 
make the best progress after removal. A very light sprinkling of salt 
will benefit young plantations in all cases where the soil is of a light 
character, but should not be applied to clayey soils, or it will do much 
more harm than good. Slugs are very partial to the young shoots, and 
are responsible for many failures. Therefore anticipate their attacks 
by frequently dusting over the beds with soot and lime, stirring between 
the rows with a Dutch hoe also being beneficial. It is not yet too late 
to form fresh beds or to make good any blanks in those formed in this 
or preceding seasons, and it is preferable to do this now than to wait 
till next spring. Transplanting may be successfully practised when the 
first formed shoots are 6 inches to 12 inches in length, especially if every 
precaution is taken to prevent the delicate root fibres from being wholly 
dritd up or destroyed. If there are more young plants in the seed rows 
than are required for making or completing permanent beds, put them 
out on good ground, 12 inches asunder in rows 2 feet apart, and they 
will in the course of two or three seasons make grand stuff for lifting 
and forcing, 
Kidkey BEA.NS.—Houses are becoming too hot and crowded for 
these, and where possible the supplies ought now to be forthcoming 
from plants in gently heated pits. According as Potatoes are cleared 
out follow closely with Beans, transplanting these either from small 
pots or boxes. It is false economy to plant thickly, a few rows, or not 
more than two in a light, producing far more Beans than three would 
do. Lightly stake at once. Keep close and warm, well syringing the 
walls and bed in hot weather, this being done when the pits or frames 
are closed early in the afternoon. When growing strongly give plenty 
of air, and keep well supplied with moisture at the roots. It also pays 
well to raise a number of plants in small pots for planting in handlights 
or shallow rough frames on warm borders, and a row of plants might 
also be grown at the foot of a south wall, some light protection being 
afforded these during cold nights. Ne Plus Ultra, Osborn’s Forcing, and 
Sion Hou-e are among the best varieties for either frame culture or the 
warm borders. Sow seed of one of these early sorts, and also of Canadian 
Wonder, to afford a close succession on a warm border, the former in 
drilk 18 inches apart, and the latter 2 feet apart. Any now coming 
through the soil must be protected whenever frosts are imminent, or 
they will be lost. 
Runner Beans. —Unless wanted particularly early,_ the cultivators 
being prepared to expend some trouble in protecting, it is not advisable 
to sow seed of these before the first week in May, and even that may be 
ten days too early in some low lying localities. They are essentially 
moisture-loving plants, and are liable to fail early in hot and dry 
positions. They ought, therefore, to have a deep and well manured 
root run, the site chosen being conveniently near to a good water supply, 
or at any rate where plenty of water and liquid manure can be carted 
to them "whenever necessary. If the whole of the ground has not been 
trenched then double dig a width of not less than 2 feet, this being done 
somewhat after the style Celery trenches are formed, only more of the 
surface soil should be returned, and the sides not left so square. Sow 
the seed either in single lines or in double lines with 9 inehes between 
them, and if more than one long row is grown let them be not less than 
6 feet apart, 9 feet being none too much when extra tall stakes are used. 
Crop between the rows with early Potatoes, Caulifiowers, or Cabbage, all 
of which will come off before being unduly shaded by the Beans, 
Peas. —Successional sowing of midseason and late varieties should 
be made at about fortnightly intervals. Seeing that they will most 
probably have to withstand hot and dry weather let these have the 
benefit of either freely manured and trenched ground, or else trenches 
prepared much as advised for Runner Beans, sowing immediately over 
old Celery trenches being another way out of the difficulty. ^ Avoid 
sowing too thickly, those that have a chance to branch freely being the 
most profitable, crowding the rows being another mistake. Let the 
latter be fully as far apart as the known height of the varieties sown. 
Mould up and early stake the more forward rows, allowing these to fall 
about the ground for want of supports being most unwise. 
Potatoes. —Advantage ought to have been taken to fine down and 
further loosen the soil between rows of early Potatoes, moulding-up 
following closely, or as fast as the haulm shows through the ground. 
All the moulding-up should at this early date be done in the morning, 
in order that the newly moved soil may have a chance of becoming 
warmer and drier before night, this frequently making a material 
difference in the effect of frosts. The most critical time is when the 
haulm is just coming through the ground, and if badly frosted then the 
recovery is doubtful, whereas if they have been once soiled up the stems 
may be saved and an early recovery take place. Rough protection 
ought to be afforded those more advanced—hoops or frameworks of 
poles and mats, inverted flower pots with drainage holes stopped, or 
even branches of evergreens being capable of protecting them from 
moderately severe frosts. 
Seeds to be Sown. —In all but the coldest distric's the first week 
in May is quite early enough to sow successional midseason and late 
Broccoli, the former including Snow’s Winter White, Borecole, Choude 
Burghley, Savoys, late Cauliflowers, and successional Brussels Sprouts. 
Raised much earlier the chances are that most of the plants will be 
practically spoilt in the seed beds before the ground is ready for their 
reception, whereas if the seed is sown now, thinly and well in the open, 
a capital lot of sturdy plants will be available just when wanted, and 
with ordinarily fair treatment the results should be most satisfactory. 
Good care ought to be taken of these late sowings, as should they fail 
later ones may be too backward. Rolling the seeds in a damp cloih and 
then in powdered red lead will make them distasteful to birds, netting 
over the seed beds being another good remedy, while if slugs or Turnip 
flea are troublesome soot and lime must be freely used when the seed¬ 
lings are moist with dew by way of preventives. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
The Season. 
We have experienced the most severe April in the north 
within the memory of man. Snow fell on ten days, and the 
temperature on the morning of the 29th was 27°. Between the 
2nd and the 8th the weather was seasonable, and bees worked well 
upon the various flowers and catkins then in bloom, but few 
ventured out subsequently. It is surprising how far the brood is 
advanced with but six days’ work, and with so few flowers to 
gather from. 
PuNics Again. 
On the 23rd half a dozen gentlemen visited me. Two of them 
came from the West Highlands for the purpose of seeing the 
much despised Punics. Unfortunately the day was too wintry 
for the bees to venture out ; but the tin scoop feeders, which 
had been left underneath the bees all the winter, were 
drawn out. They were crushed full of bees and many seals 
from drone cells. This state of matters rather surprised the 
visitors. An examination of the Carniolans made in a similar 
manner showed them to be almost as far advanced, but in 
fine weather the Punics are the most active bees I have had 
experience with. One of the gentlemen present said that a 
neighbour of his procured a queen in the autumn of 1891, which 
was introduced to a mere handful of bees, and in due time the 
hive—a large one—was crowded with bees, and apparently as far 
advanced as his were now. These are crossed Punics, the progeny 
of pure queens, and appear to be a little in advance of pure 
breeding ones. I am anxious that the summer should be a 
favourable one for bees. When they begin honey gathering in 
quantity I will let your readers know the results of the different 
breeds. At present the Punics bid fair to maintain their good 
reputation, hut a little patience will give us more substantial 
proof. 
Granulated Honey. 
Occasionally one or more hives will be observed to throw out 
a considerable quantity of granulated honey, but how to prevent 
this has perhaps never entered the minds of many persons interested. 
After I had cleaned the debris from the solid floors of my hives 
some weeks ago I observed on several of them a considerable 
quantity of honey granules. I collected and dissolved them 
amongst syrup, and fed back to the bees. The ventilating floor 
not only permits us doing this easily, but enables us by its appear¬ 
ance to diagnose the state of the bees, without rushing to the 
questionable extreme of opening the hive and exposing to the 
inclemency of the weather, not unfrequently to the ruin of the 
hive. 
Swarming. 
Swarming will be general in some places during May if the 
weather is at all genial. There will be a paucity of fruit blossom 
in some places this year, but the Planes (Sycamores) are showing 
many flower buds, which will compensate for the loss of earlier 
1 blossom. The bee-keeper will, however, do well to keep a careful 
