May 19, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
881 
bulbs would require a 7 or 8-incb pot, but a smaller pot suffices for the 
others. The Hoop Petticoats may be planted five in a 5-inch pot. For 
a good potting soil I would recommend two parts of rich loam, one part 
of leaf mould, and one part of rough sand. A little soot and well- 
rotted cow manure mixed with the soil would be a help. See that the 
drainage of the pot is perfect, and do not pot the bulbs too tight, as that 
seriously hampers root action. Place the bulbs with their tops about an 
inch under the surface, and then put them out on ashes in a cold frame 
to winter. When they begin to show bloom give plenty of light and 
air. It they are brought into the house they should not be left in a 
room where fire and gas is burning, else they will soon fiag. When they 
are done blooming they may be put out of doors to dry off until June, 
then knock out the bulbs and let them have the sun on them for a few 
days, after that storing them away until September or October in a dry, 
airy place. They require very little water during the winter, but must 
never be allowed to get dry after they have shown the bloom scape. 
Ctjltivatiox Out of Dooes. 
In growing Narcissi in the fiower border, it may be presumed that 
the soil is, to some extent, made free and friable ; for, in a heavy clay, 
only the very strongest growers would have any chance, and even they 
would not be very happy in it. Bulbous plants cannot brook tightness 
or strangling. To grow a collection of Daffodils to perfection, different 
soils and situations would be required. Beginning with the commonest 
kinds, plant them in the poorest soil, and in such a position that they 
may be left undisturbed for years. Strong growing kinds, like 
Emperor, Empress, and rugilobus, should be planted deep, say not less 
than 8 inches, and the best soil for them is a deep strong loam. Do 
not press the soil around them. If planted by September (as they 
ought to be) the autumn rains and the long spell of winter will do all 
that is required in firming the soil about the bulbs. You must bear in 
mind that in a week or two from the time of planting the roots begin 
to grow, and as they keep on growing during the winter they want 
breathing space. Although these are strong growers they should not 
get any manure after planting. If the ground requires enriching, old 
cow manure or thoroughly well rotted stable manure should be supplied 
the year before, so that it would have become wholly incorporated with 
the soil before the bulbs came in contact with it. Horsefieldi Countess 
of Annesley, Golden Spur, Ard Kigh, and others of the spurius type 
should be planted very early, in August if possible, or, at all events, not 
later than September. They do not require to be planted so deep, nor 
in so strong a soil. They do well when lifted every July and planted 
again the following month, just giving them a month or six weeks to 
harden their bulbs. The white trumpet varieties, cernuus, moschatus, 
tortuosus, pallidus proecox, and that grand Daffodil maximus, are all 
weaker in growth and like shallow planting. The soil for these must 
be light, the aspect southerly, and getting plenty of sunlight. They do 
well at the foot of standard Roses, for they seem to like being relieved 
of some of the moisture in the ground. On gravelly or warm sandy 
banks they do admirably. In moist or retentive clay they ultimately 
perish. The double cernuus is a delicate grower, and wants to be 
tenderly dealt with. A light soil and a warm situation is indispensable 
for its welfare. The dainty little Hoop Petticoat Daffodil should be 
planted at the foot of some ornamental tree and left alone, provided 
the situation is not damp. If it is, it must be lifted about July and 
replanted in August. It is rather long winded, for, although it begins 
growing early in autumn, it is a late bloomer. 
The Peerless or Star Narcissi, such as Cynosure, Queen Bess, Stella, 
Princess Mary, and Leedsi amabilis, should not be planted deeply. 
Being all of them garden hybrids they have been used to rather 
a rich soil, and ta& well with it. They may be lifted and re¬ 
planted annually. As in the case of the White Trumpet varie¬ 
ties, so with the White Star Narcissi; they are delicate and shy in 
growth, and want a little nursing. The lovely little Cyclamen-flowered 
variety triandrus albus, poetically called Angels’ Tears, may be grown 
on a north border, or where it is not exposed to the full force of the 
sun, but it is much more satisfactory to grow it in pots. The Poet’s 
Narcissus section want careful management. It is of no use attempting 
to grow them in heavy clay soil. The soil must be light and in fine 
condition when the bulbs are planted, a deep, rich, sandy soil suiting 
them well. Sometimes the Double White is apt to go blind. This, it 
is said, may be obviated by lifting every second year, so that to insure 
a number of fiowering bulbs half the stock might be lifted annually. 
The foregoing remarks apply to those planted in the open border ; but 
many, if not all, of the kinds named do well in the grass, and they look 
uncommonly pretty peering up here and there on a lawn that is not 
kept too closely cut. The whites and the smaller ones are very pretty 
when grown on a grassy bank. Queen Anne’s Daffodil, a lovely gem 
with the petals overlapping each other with geometrical accuracy, likes 
a gravelly soil, and should be planted pretty deep for its size. It is 
best to lift it in July, and after hardening the bulbs plant again in a 
month or so. Before leaving the subject of cultivation I may mention 
that in preparing these cultural notes I have had the valuable assistance, 
for the sake of comparison with my own notes, of the experience of one 
of the highest authorities on the Daffodil, Mr. F. W. Burbidge, the able 
and accomplished Curator of Trinity College Botanic Gardens, Dublin ; 
and Mr. Hill, who so successfully manages the great Daffodil grounds of 
Percy J. Kendall, Esq., at Newton Poppleford. 
The Best Kinds to Geow. 
Any of those I have named are worth growing, and in a good repre¬ 
sentative collection it would be a pity to leave any of them out. But if 
I were restricted to a list of twenty sorts I would name the following 
Large Trumpet Section : Golden Spur, maximus tortuosus. Emperor, 
Empress, Horsefieldi, Countess of Annesley, capax plenus (Queen Anne’s 
Daffodil). Medium Trumpet Section : Sir Watkin, Queen Bess, 
Cynosure, Stella, Codlings and Cream, and Eggs and Bacon. The True 
or Poet’s Narcissus Section : Poeticus ornatus, poeticus flore-pleno, 
Burbidgei, and triandrus albus. To these I would add the three Jonquils 
—the Single Sweet-scented, the Campernelle, and, in addition, the Queen 
Anne’s Double Jonquil, which, by the way, must not be confounded 
with Queen Anne’s Daffodil, a totally different variety. The old double 
Daffodil, now so popular with Americans, is well worth growing. In 
conclusion, I would strongly recommend a more extended cultivation of 
these lovely flowers. They have a long blooming season, they come in 
the spring when there are few out-of-door flowers to be had, they are 
bright and cheerful-looking under all conditions, either indoors or out of 
doors, and they are easy of culture. They are, indeed, as the poet has 
put it, “ things of beauty and joys for ever.” The time at my disposal 
has prevented me from going into the question of raising Daffodils from 
seed, and the wide field taken up by hybridisers of this flower, from 
whom we have received many beautiful forms of the Narcissus, but I 
hope that I may have led some of my hearers to see that there is, in the 
study of this flower, a great field open to the botanist, the florist, and the 
amateur.” 
A discussion took place on the structure, cultivation, and packing of 
Daffodils, in which Messrs. Carlile, Bartlett, Stoneham, and Lansdale 
joined. The Chairman, in proposing a vote of thanks to Mr. Hope for 
the above interesting paper, congratulated the members upon the great 
success which had attended the first session of the Association, a success 
altogether beyond that which was expected. Lieutenant Smith seconded, 
and the resolution was carried with acclamation. Mr. Hope, in return¬ 
ing thanks, said it was exceedingly gratifying to him that the Society 
had been so successful. He believed that they had laid the foundation 
for a very successful Gardeners’ Association. It was also a pleasure to 
him to know that their little Society was being regarded by others of a 
similar kind as a model one. It was pointed out that a silver medal 
would be offered for competition on the subject of pruning next session. 
A vote of thanks to the Chairman concluded the meeting .—{Devon and 
Exeter Gazette.') 
THE GARDENERS’ ORPHAN FUND. 
Annual Dinnee. 
The fourth annual dinner of the Gardeners’ Orphan Fund took place 
in the Whitehall Rooms, Hotel M6tropole, London, on Tuesday evening. 
May 17th. There was a large company present, upwards of a hundred 
gentlemen sitting down to the tables, and Sir James Whitehead, Bart., 
occupied the chair. Noticeable amongst others were Sir Trevor Lawrence, 
Bart., M.P., Aldermanand Colonel Davies, Dr. Masters, Messrs. H. J. Veitch, 
J. Cheal, F. Sander, G. Bunyard, A, F. Barron, J. Laing, A. Veitch, 
R. Dean, G. Paul, D. Morris, A. Outram, J. S. Ingram, F. Q. Lane, 
W. Goldring, P. Crowley, H. J. Cutbush, R. Cannell, and many well- 
known horticulturists. The tables were beautifully furnished with 
vases of Pelargoniums, Anthuriums, Tulips, Orchids, and other flowers 
kindly supplied by Messrs. Cannell, Laing, and various other nursery¬ 
men. Justice having been done to the excellent repast provided, the 
customary loyal toasts were proposed and drunk with enthusiasm, and 
following these came the most important one of the evening, namely, 
“ Continued Prosperity to the Gardeners’ Orphan Fund.” 
Sir James Whitehead, who was warmly received, in rising to propose 
this toast, made an earnest appeal on behalf of the Fund. He said he 
attributed his presence there that evening to the fact that during his 
mayoralty in 1888-89 he was instrumental in starting a fund for the 
promotion of fruit culture in this country. He felt highly honoured to 
think that he had been invited to take the chair and to make an appeal 
on behalf of the orphans of the gardeners of England. While gardeners 
were supposed to receive, and in many cases did receive, a fair remunera¬ 
tion for their services, it could not be said they were a very highly paid 
class of men. Thus it was that when from time to time many of them 
were taken away prematurely their children were thrown more or less 
upon the charitable institutions of the country. He knew that in many 
instances the services which had been rendered by the father had 
been recognised by those who employed him ; but in the main, of course, 
they had to deal with the fact that the children of a man who occupied 
more or less a labouring position, although in the case of a gardener it 
was associated with science, could not expect to be supported 
by those who employed their father. Recognising that fact, the 
horticulturists of the country had established in commemoration of 
the Queen’s Jubilee the Gardeners’ Orphan Fund, which made allowance 
not exceeding 5s. per week, in aid of the maintenance of orphans until they 
were fourteen years of age. In addition to that they gave grants not 
exceeding £10 to apprentice orphans to any particular trade. The help 
rendered was no doubt very small, yet it was a real boon to those in 
whose behalf it was given, and he believed that nothing could exceed 
the gratitude which the widowed mother and other relatives of the 
poor children showed towards the benefactors who were connected with 
the Fund. (Hear, hear.) The Institution was one of the most useful 
which had ever been founded, and it was not too much to say that, 
except for that Fund, a very large number of children would be 
compelled to seek refuge in the workhouse, with all its demoralising 
effect. The Fund was one of the most economically-worked societies he 
had ever been associated with. With the exception of £40 or £50 a year 
