884 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 19, 1892. 
NOTES ON GARDENIAS. 
At the April meeting of the Sheffield, Hallamshiie, and West Riding 
United Chrysanthemum Society Mr. W. J. Fuller, Exotic Nursery, 
Headingley, Leeds, read a brief paper on Gardenias. 
Mr. Fuller is a large and most successful market grower of these 
plants. He first dealt with propagation, advising cuttings to be taken 
from half-ripened wood, giving preference to that which had grown in 
heat, not similar wood grown on plants placed in a cool house. Bottom 
heat was essential to root them, a compost of peat and sand being the 
most suitable at this stage of culture ; afterwards the addition of a little 
decayed manure and charcoal was essential. Free growth was 
desirable, therefore a stove temperature was necessary, care being taken 
that the soil never approached dryness, or poor growth would result. 
Plants intended for specimens should be nipped into shape as they 
grow, never allowing any to flower until of a fair size. 
The treatment of old plants was then referred to. After flowering, 
plants found to be needing further support were allowed to become 
moderately dry, placing them at the same time in a cooler house, where 
they were pruned back according to their strength. Almost immediately 
they were placed back again in a warm temperature, syringed freely 
and induced to break into fresh growth, when they were turned out of 
their pots and transferred to clean well drained pots in a good compost 
of loam, peat, manure, sand, and charcoal. 
Gardenias required constantly syringing when in heat so as to have a 
moist atmosphere about them. They were not grown as plentifully as 
they ought to be, many people objecting to them because of their 
liability to the attacks of insects. Unhealthiness was generally the 
cause of this, a sour condition of the soil checking free root action and 
arresting growth, insects then establishing themselves. He once bought 
a number of very large Gardenias from 6 to 14 feet high, which were 
white over with mealy bug, literally covered from base to summit. 
They had been grown in a temperature of 80°. They were placed in a 
house to themselves, where they were turned out of the pots, the roots 
washed, also the stems, and the plants syringed four or five times a day 
with a special mixture. After persevering in this treatment for a time 
the plants were washed with clean water, potted, and grown as quickly 
as possible, being plunged in a brisk bottom heat in a bed of tan. He 
kept them well syringed with clean water, and once a week with the 
mixture. They grew remarkably well, breaking out from the old wood, 
Bnd have since flowered freely. So clean were they kept that for four 
years in succession there was not a bug to be seen in the house. He 
had a large collection of Gardenias, and it was no unusual thing for him 
to cut eighty to one hundred dozen blooms per week, which he sent to 
different parts of the country. A vote of thanks was cordially passed 
to Mr. Fuller for his paper. 
An attractive display of cut blooms formed an interesting feature at 
this meeting, prizes being awarded to several professionals and amateurs 
for meritorious exhibits ; among which were examples of Roses, Orchids, 
Gardenias, Olivias, Rhododendrons, Camellias, Richardias, Hyacinths, 
Deutzias, Cinerarias, and Azaleas. Mr. John Haigh occupied the chair, 
and a fair number of members attended. 
WOKK.Foii'raEWEEK.. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. —The prevalence of sunshine of late has had a far greater 
beneflcial influence than the artificial heat it was necessary to apply for 
many weeks to keep the plants in steady progress, and it should be 
utilised to advance growth, having due regard to ventilation so as to 
secure a sturdy habit and the safety of the foliage. In sunny weather 
air-giving should be attended to early in the morning, dispelling moisture 
by that means from the leaves before the sun acts powerfully upon 
them, for when the moisture becomes heated it has a prejudicial effect 
on their tissues by impairing their elaborative power, and sometimes 
causes their serious disfigurement by scorching. Too much moisture, 
however, cannot be had within the house and about the plants provided 
care is given to the ventilation. In order to maintain a genial condition 
of the atmosphere freely moisten all available surfaces whenever they 
become dry. Especially is this necessary just before closing time, which 
should be sufficiently early in the afternoon to keep the temperature 
at 85° to 90° for a considerable time afterwards. Syringing will be needed 
daily in bright weather, regulating the moisture by the condition of the 
house and plants. The best criterion in the case of the plants is the 
axils of the leaves. Those should never be allowed to become quite 
dry during the growing season, because many feeding roots exist around 
the base of Pine plants which only derive support from the water in 
the axils of the leaves. An adequate supply of water must be given at 
the roots, not allowing any plant to suffer from want of it, but give some 
stimulating food, such as guano, taking care not to apply it too strong. 
A slight shade will be necessary to protect the leaves from the scorching 
rays of the sun, employing it only for an hour or two at mid-day. The 
thinner the material the better so long as it suffices to prevent the sun 
scorching the leaves or fruit. Dispense with fire heat as much as 
possible, but a little will still be necessary in the succession as well as 
fruiting houses. Recently potted plants should have a liberal supply of 
heat ; 90° to 95° at the base of the pots will induce roots to take hold of 
the soil quickly. 
Fruiting Plants .—Those with the fruit in an advanced sta'e require 
a moderately high temperature and moist atmosphere to secure large 
well finished examples, but ventilation must be strictly attended to, 
admitting air at the top of the house at 80°, maintaining the temperature 
through the day at 80° to 90°, 5° more with liberal ventilation, closing at 
85°. Early closing, however, with too moist an atmosphere enlarges the 
crowns, which are generally large enough. Early and ample ventilation 
is also necessary to prevent the sun scorching the crowns and spoiling the 
appearance of the fruit. Examine the plants twice a week to see if 
they require water, applying it when required, using weak liquid manure 
up to the fruit commencing to ripen, then supply clear water only. 
Syringe the plants and house two or three times a week, employing fire 
heat to maintain the temperature at 70° by night and 75° by day. Keep 
the bottom heat steady at 85°, never less than 80°, nor above 90°. 
Plants from which the fruit is cut may be placed in a part of the house 
by themselves, keeping the suckers on them until the end of the month 
or early in June, when they may be potted together with those held in 
reserve from March. Potting the suckers as the fruit is cut entails 
constant attention, and is not necessary to a constant supply of fruit 
throughout the year. Only three batches of suckers are required to secure 
that, potting them in March, June, and September. 
Peaches and Nectaeines. —Early House .—Trees of Alexander 
and Waterloo—the best early Peach, taking colour, weight, and quality 
into consideration—will now, or soon, be cleared of the fruit. The 
shoots on which the fruit has been produced should, if not required for 
extension, be cut away to the shoots that are to produce fruit next year. 
This admits light and air, and the foliage is more under the influence 
of water for cleansing purposes. Syringe forcibly to cleanse the foliage 
of red spider, and if this and scale continue troublesome promptly apply 
an insecticide. The foliage must be kept clean and healthy, and over¬ 
maturity or premature ripening of the wood guarded against by venti¬ 
lating to the fullest extent after the fruit is gathered. Keep the borders 
moist, and in mild showery weather remove the roof-lights. Stop or 
remove gross laterals, but allow some growth, as too close suppression of 
the laterals has a tendency to hasten the ripening of the growths, and 
when this occurs the buds may swell through over-development when 
the trees should be going to rest. Trees of Hale’s Early are now ripening 
the fruit, closely followed by Stirling Castle, a much finer Peach, and 
unequalled for general forcing. Early York and all of that race are 
too prone to cast the buds to render them suitable for early forcing, 
similar remarks applying to Early Grosse Mignonne. Grosse Mignonne, 
Noblesse, and all its race are notorious bud-casters when forced early. 
Royal George is a standard of excellence in retaining its buds and as a 
forcing Peach. Stirling Castle and Royal George are ripening, and must 
not be syringed, unless red spider appear, when a forcible syringing 
should be given on a fine morning. When water lodges for any length 
of time on the fruit its skin cracks, and mould infests the flesh, impart¬ 
ing to it an unpleasant flavour. Supply sufficient water to the roots to 
maintain the foliage in health, but avoid an excess in the soil and 
atmosphere, as it has a tendency to induce splitting at the stone in 
certain varieties. 
Irees Started in January .— The fruit must be exposed to all the 
light possible, turning the leaves aside and raising it on laths placed 
across the trellis with its apex to the sun. This is apt to cause the fruit 
to ripen too fast on one side, but it may be prevented by placing a thin 
piece of paper over and just clear of the fruit in the hottest part of the 
day, so as to subdue the force of the sun. Maintain a circulation of air 
constantly by a gentle warmth in the hot-water pipes, keeping the 
temperature at 60° to 65° at night, and 70° to 75° by day artificially. 
Spare no effort to eradicate red spider before syringing ceases, as it 
should when the fruit commences to ripen, otherwise the pest will 
increase so rapidly as to prejudice next season’s prospects by its ravages 
on the foliage. Thoroughly water inside borders, also outside ones if 
necessary, and supply a light mulch of lumpy manure, such as spent 
Mushroom bed material or partially decayed stable litter, keeping it 
moist. 
Succession Houses .—Allow trees time to stone, not hurrying them 
or they may be so exhausted as to ripen the fruit prematurely if it be 
not cast in the process. Root action will be encouraged by a free 
retention of the laterals on weakly trees, and their removal on strong 
trees will somewhat check their activity ; but these extensions and 
restrictions must not be excessive, or the fruit will be prejudicially 
affected. Avoid crowding the principal foliage, and keep insect pests 
in check by syringing the trees twice a day. Thin the fruits where too 
thickly placed, removing all surplus ones when stoned, and turn the 
others to the light so that they may colour well from the apex. Supply 
water or liquid manure to weakly trees, but do not feed vigorous trees, 
as that will only aid growth and hinder stoning. Admit air early and 
close in the afternoon with plenty of atmospheric moisture so as to raise 
the temperature to 80° or 85° when it is desired to accelerate the fruit, 
and ventilate a little afterwards for the night, so that the temperature 
may fall to between 60° and 65°. Maintain those temperatures by 
artificial means in the daytime; they will be ample until the stoning ia 
completed. 
