June 9, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
429 
light brown tipped with yellow, the petals similarly coloured, but 
with a few blotches of white. The basal area of the bp is pure 
white margined with light brown, the apical portion light brown. 
A first-class certificate was awarded. In O. crispum Sanderse 
(fig. 76, see page 441) we have a most distinct form of a familiar 
species. It needs no minute description, for its value lies in the 
remarkably heavy blotching, and it need only be said that the 
sepals, petals, and lip are nearly covered with brown blotches and 
spots to indicate the distinctive character of the variety. It is one 
of the most richly coloured forms of O. crispum yet met with, and 
must he classed as one of the finest varieties of that popular type. 
A first-class certificate was awarded to it also. 
Imported Orchids. 
Beginners would do well to exercise care in the purchase of 
these plants. Two points are worth attention—namely, the time of 
year they arrive, and the condition of the plants after they have 
arrived. I have had to treat plants that have arrived at nearly all 
seasons of the year, but I have found none so easy to manage as 
those that have been collected during the period of rest and arrive 
in this country during the early months of the year. February, 
March, and April cannot be surpassed for importing Orchids in a 
general way. When the plants are collected at the right time, and 
properly packed in perfectly dry material in what may be termed 
air-tight cases, they invariably arrive in good condition. When full 
of sap, packed loosely or moderately so, and holes are left in the 
cases, the air enters and aids fermentation, the result being that the 
plants arrive in the most unsatisfactory condition. Last year we 
received 700 plants at the wrong season and packed in the most 
careless manner, and only six were worth trying to bring round. 
This small remnant will take one year longer than they should have 
done to produce flowering pseudo-bulbs worthy of the name. 
The importance of receiving plants at the proper season of the 
year and in good condition is manifest. My advice is to select 
plants that have not started into growth on the journey. It is 
much better to wait for another importation than to start with 
plants in a half dead condition, for they rarely do sat'sfactorily. In 
the selection of these plants those that have started on the journey, 
especially Cattleyas, are very liable to decay when exposed and the 
plants are subjected to heat and moisture. Select plants that have 
good healthy foliage of evergreen kinds and plump but dormant 
leads. Plants in this condition rarely fail to do well if they are 
given proper treatment. We may just glance at Cattleyas, Dendro- 
biums, and Odontoglossums, and then some idea of the methods of 
treating these plants may be gained. 
Cattleyas that arrive in the condition described should have all 
decayed portions cut away with a sharp knife. These if left upon 
the plants are very liable to cause other portions of the plants to 
decay. The plants should then be thoroughly washed in tepid 
water in which a little softsoap has been dissolved, and not only 
should the leaves and pseudo-bulbs be washed, but the rhizomes 
also, for on these scale is often left, and afterwards proves a source 
of trouble. Decaying roots can be cut away before this washing 
takes place, and then the plants may be spread out to dry again. 
We invariably lay the plants in a vinery at work where the tempera¬ 
ture ranges about 55° to 60°. If possible a position is selected 
where the supply of moisture can be regulated. A trelliswork 
covering the border is a good place for them, but it is not absolutely 
necessary, for I have frequently had to start them in plant and 
Orchid houses. The plants at first are only given the moisture of 
the house, then they are syringed once on fine days uniil they 
plump up and display signs of starting. When once the leads are 
moving the plants should be placed in pots or pans. A stake should 
be placed in the centre of the pots and secured in position by means 
of the crocks. The pots or pans should be filled to within 1 inch 
’ of the rim. The plants can then be secured to the stake and 
practically held into position by lumps of charcoal. Syringing is 
practised as before, and the crocks and charcoal kept moist by 
pouring tepid water into them. 
The plants are not long before they emit roots, when a few 
pieces of the crocks and charcoal may be removed, and the space 
filled in with peat in lumps, pieces of charcoal and sphagnum moss 
towards the surface between the lumps of peat. After the plants 
are potted they are placed in the Cattleya house by themselves, 
and given the same treatment as established plants expect in the 
supply of water, which should be given with care. Plants in the 
condition described frequently make strong flowering pseudo-bulbs 
by the end of the season, and produce abundance of roots. Many 
of the plants root so freely that they are ready for larger pots or 
pans the following season. Even the weakest of the plants are 
ready for potting the second season. 
Dendrobiums of various kinds that arrive plump and in a 
dormant condition do not give much trouble to establish ; even those 
that have made an inch or so of growth in the packing cases are 
not difficult to manage. The only difference in treatment is that 
the supply of moisture must be administered with caution, and 
strong light must be kept from the plants for some time. We 
invariably suspend these plants from the roof of a vinery the same 
as described for Cattleyas, or in some other suitable structure. 
During the earlier months of the year even those that are dormant 
are not long before they start into growth. Such kinds as Wardi- 
anum, crassinode, and others start much quicker than chrysotoxum, 
densiflorum, and others of the same style of growth. When once 
the plants start into growth they are placed in pots, baskets, or 
pans for suspending from the roof. In this operation it is wise to 
use pots, pans, and baskets of as small a size as possible. This 
prevents the placing of too much material about the plants in 
potting them. The latter is a great mistake, and the cause of 
failure in many cases. We find it best at first to fill the pans, 
pots, or baskets nearly full with crocks, and use only very little 
peat and moss. We prefer potting or basketing the plants the 
following season to giving them too much rooting material at 
the first. 
One other caution is necessary. Dendrobiums often flower 
profusely after they arrive, and if allowed to do so they weaken 
FIG. 74. —ODONTOGLOSSUM EOURYANUM. 
the plants to such an extent that they rarely do much good after¬ 
wards. I have been tempted to allow Devonianum to produce as 
many flowers as they would, and the consequence has been they 
have failed completely afterwards. Yery often these are cheap 
enough to be flowered, and then thown away, the same as 
Hyacinths ; but we are now considering the establishment of the 
plants for future use. It is a wise plan to rub off the flowers 
directly they appear. This seems a sacrifice, but it is not the case 
if the well-being of the plant is considered. They need very 
careful supplies of water at first until the formation of a good 
quantity of active roots has taken place, when the supply may be 
liberal. Some of the plants enjoy ryore shade than others, but 
that must be passed for the present. 
Odontoglossums need different treatment and cooler conditions- 
in which to start. If they are dormant they are washed the same 
as advised, and are then laid on a mat, partially shaded, where the 
temperature ranges about 50°. If we have to deal with good 
masses of O. Rossi majus we invariably pull them to pieces so as 
to remove any dead or decaying material from amongst them ; 
they are then thoroughly washed. We are particular about this 
matter, because we have introduced insect pests into our houses by 
carelessness. This variety does better if broken up than if large 
crowded clusters are secured on blocks or placed on the surface 
of pans. We have found it do best when suspended from the 
roof in pans 2 inches in depth, and 5 or 6 inches in diameter. The 
plants require very little soil, because in their native habitat they 
are found growing upon trees. These, as well as other varieties, 
