June 9, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
441 
vigour to watch the trees, removing superfluous parts at short intervals 
as it is seen the shoots become quite ready and strong, until all have 
been shortened. Lateral growths will push during the summer from 
the tips or upper buds of the shortened shoots ; these are pinched back 
to one leaf when that has attained to its full size, subsequent growths 
being treated in a similar manner. This treatment causes the lower 
buds to become plump, eventually assuming the character of fruit buds, 
to one or two of which the shoot is shortened in winter. Apples, Pears, 
Plums, and Cherries (except the Moreilo) are pruned thus in summer, 
though many Cherry and Plum trees on walls are allowed to carry in 
addition some unstopped shoots for which room can be found for nailing 
or tying in. 
When trained on walls or fences Red and White Currants and Goose¬ 
berries are summer-pruned, or they would soon become too crowded. 
Pinch off the ends of the young shouts above three pairs of leaves when 
these have attained full size, subsequent growths to one leaf. Wher¬ 
ever growths are seen to be crowded in standard trets some of them 
may be removed entirely, those left being benefited by the extra space, 
and the freer admission of light and air. 
OUTDOOB Figs. —Thin out the young shoots of Fig trees, but do 
not shorten them, as upon the points of these the fruit is borne the 
following season. 
Outdoor Vines. — It is as necessary to regulate the growths of 
Vines outside as it is under glass. Only allow sufficient young wood or 
canes to extend for which room can be found. Stop fruitful shoots two 
joints beyond the bunch ; those without fruit to the fifth or sixth joint. 
If room can be found for lading in a few' young canes, stopping them at 
lengths of 2 to 4 feet, or even longer, they would be productive next 
year if well ripened, but not if crowded or shaded too much. If 
bunches of fruit set well thin the berries to secure finer fruit. 
Peaches and Nectarines. —Complete the thinning of the shoots 
and tie in the reserved wood carefully. Continue thinning the fruit 
where it is at all crowded or misplaced. Syringe the trees vigorously 
every fine warm afternoon, using tepid water to dislodge insects and 
prevent their gaining a foothold upon the trees. Any shoots that 
become suddenly infested with green or black aphides dust with tobacco 
powder or dip in a solution of soapy water coloured with tobacco liquor. 
Curled or maggot-infested leaves found chiefly on Apricots cut off and 
burn. Shoots attacked by mildew dust wdth sulphur from a perforated 
tin box. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —Late Houses .—There must not be any delay in thinning 
late Grapes. Gros Colman, Gros Guillaume, and Trebbiano have the 
ovaries so pronounced and are so free setting that they may have what 
would be the worst berries if left taken out and the thinning com¬ 
pleted whilst they are in flower. This secures all the swelling possible 
in those that are left, and the berries attain to an enormous size if 
care is taken to leave no more than can swell properly. They should 
not be less than an inch apart, and Gros Colman, also Gros Gui laume, 
not large bunches, often need to be IJ to 1^ inch apart, as they have 
berries m proportion to the size of the bunches and number on the 
Vine. It is also a good practice to go over varieties that are thickly set 
with flowers, whilst the latter are in the “ cap ” state, and cut out at 
least half. It helps Lady Downe’s, Mrs. Pince, and Alnwick Seedling to 
set if the precaution is taken to cut out the flowers that are weakest and 
have the thinnest footstalks and smallest “caps.” This may also be 
practised on Alicante, which sets about six times as many berries as 
there is room for to swell to their full size, as uming they attain the 
proportions duly thinned berries do. These are tedious processes, and 
may seem impracticable on a large scale ; but it is just as easy to thin 
the flowers as the berries. In order to secure large and highly finished 
berries it is well worth attending to, and they are not to be had without 
thinning well. Oval-berried varieties require less room than the round 
ones, but all must be thinned so that they will have room for swelling 
fully without wedging, and yet be so close as to retain the form of the 
bunch when dished. The thinning of the shy-setting varieties should be 
deferred until it is seen which berries are properly fertilised by their 
taking the lead in swelling. This applies to the true Muscats, of which 
there are only two — namely, Muscat of Alexandria and Black 
Muscat (Muscat Hamburgh), the others being sub-varieties or 
not Muscats at all. Bunch-thinning should have early attention, 
reducing them to the number which their size and the condition 
of the Vines warrant as likely to finish satisfactorily. One pound 
of Grapes per foot of rod is a fair average crop, but that must be taken 
in regard to the distance the rods are apart, for Vines at 3 feet apart 
would be heavily burdened at that rate, and perhaps not finish the 
Grapes, whilst those 4j to 5 feet apart would produce clusters as large 
in berry as they are highly coloured and finished. Muscat of Alexandria 
may have poor clusters at the latter distance, whilst those on Vines 6 or 
7 feet asunder furnish grand specimens. Length of rod is no criterion 
of the producing capabilities of the Vine, for that is entirely regulated 
by the amount of foliage in the best condition exposed to light and air, 
and due supplies of nourishment of the essential kind furnished at the 
proper time in the correct amount. One pound of Grapes to every 3 feet 
superficial of foliage exposed to every ray of sunshine is a full, but with 
proper feeding, not an overburdening crop. Regard must, however, be 
had to the variety. Muscat of Alexandria will not produce anything 
like the same weight of Grapes as Alic .nte on an equal spread of Vine, 
nor White Frontignan give half the product in pounds of Grapes as 
Gros Colman from an equal area. To get quality the Vines must not be 
overcropped, for such never finish the Grapes well, and the latter keep 
very indifferently. 
Late Vines are gross feeders, and require abundant supplies of water, 
with liquid manure or surface dressings washed in to carry full crops to 
perfection. A light mulching of sweetened horse droppings or cow- 
dung where the soil is light will keep the the surface moist if it is 
properly damped, and the roots will be attracted by the moisture and 
food instead of driven through drought and poverty at the surface to 
seek supplies by descending to the depths of the border. It is hardly 
possible to overwater inside borders that are well drained. A 4-gallon 
watering potful per square yard once a week will be necessary in 
bright weather where the Vines have a good run of border, and twice as 
much where the root space is limited to small areas. Outside profit 
more than inside borders, because the rain water is more nourishing than 
any other through its containing food elements, and the recent rains are 
sending forward the Grapes that are swelling. A light mulching of 
short stable manure will help to enrich the soil and retain the moisture 
of the border. 
If the weather is cold fires will be necessary to keep the Grapes 
steadily swelling. All late Grapes, except late Hamburghs, thrive best 
in a high temperature with plenty of atmospheric moisture. The thing 
is to admit a little air early in the day, and a chink at the top of 
the house constantly, increasing the ventilation with the temperature. 
FIG. 76.— ODONTOGLOSSUM CRISPUM SANDERS {Seepage m). 
yet getting 85° or 90° from sun heat through the day, and before the 
temperature declines to 80°, closing the house and damping every 
available surface, repeating this before nightfall. Admit a little air to 
allow the vitiated atmosphere to change, employing fire heat to main¬ 
tain a night temperature of 60° to 65°, and 70° to 75° by day. 
In regulating the growths allow as much foliage as can have full 
exposure to light, but all of it should not be made at once—that is, do 
not let the laterals or extensions advance to the limits before curtailing 
them, for to do so, and then have sub-laterals springing from every leaf 
base, means an excess of foliage that is not beneficial, but harmful. 
Leave a little room for lateral extension, as this causes fresh roots to be 
formed, and keeps up that activity so essential to the perfecting of 
the crops. The extra light will not do any mischief, but the higher 
elaboration of the sap will be added to the Vine’s substance, and 
this stored matter is converted into the elements that give Grapes 
their amber or purple tints, and the quality for which they are 
esteemed. White Grapes require more light than black. This applies 
more particularly to Muscat of Alexandria than other varieties, and 
this variety profits more than most kinds by a good spread of foliage 
beyond the fruit. 
Newly Planted Yvies .—Every encouragement should be given these 
to make a sturdy growth. The borders will need copious supplies of 
water, yet there must not be any excess, or the growth may become 
gross and the wood have a large pith, whereas it should be thoroughly 
solidified. A light mulching around the stems will encourage roots 
from the collar. Syringe on fine afternoons and close early. Let the 
cane or canes extend to a length of 9 or 10 leet before stopping, then 
continue a growth from the extremity, and let it grow with whatever 
laterals it may make until September, then shorten them by degrees, so 
as to have them entirely removed when the principal leaves are 
maturing. Pinch the laterals up to the extent of the stopping of the cane 
