442 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ June 9, 1892. 
at the first leaf, and let the sub-laterals extend, but keep them clear of 
the principal leaves, and treat them as advised for those on the cane 
above the stopping. This growth will cause the stem to thicken and 
form free channels, through which sap can be rapidly transmitted. Cut 
the cane down to three good buds from the bottom wire of the trellis at 
the winter pruning, and then the Vines will push a sturdy growth the 
following year. Supernumeraries should have the laterals pinched to 
one leaf as produced, and the primary at 6 to !) feet of growth according 
to the length it is intended to fruit it next season. The laterals issuirrg 
from the extremity should be pinched to one or two leaves each time 
those are made. All this cane requires is cutting off the laterals in 
September, and shortening it to the first plump bud below the first 
stopping. This is nece.ssary, because the upper one or two buds are 
large and fiat, if not actually started, and throw big, loose, profitless 
bunches. The laterals must not be cut off close to the cane until growth 
has ceased, and the principal leaves should be left on the cane as long as 
possible. 
Melons. — Fruit Rqjening. —Plenty of air should be g'ven, and 
water withheld from the fruit. Withhold water from the roots when 
the fruit shows a disposition to crack, and cut the shoot carrying it 
about half through a few inches below. Admit air constantly so as to 
insure a circulation, warm and dry. Maintain an artificial temperature 
of 70° to 75°, falling 5° at night. Place a sheet of paper over fruit 
exposed to the sun when the latter is powerful, which will prevent the 
fruit ripening unevenly and too rapidly to have high flavour. Water 
only to prevent flagging. 
Fruit Swelling those plants which have set their fruit, and 
let the soil be warm, moderately moist, rather strong, and pressed firmly 
down. Supply a soaking of water when the fruit is the size of an egg, 
follow with liquid manure in a day or two, and spread a thin coating of 
sweetened horse droppings on the bed. In narrow borders water will be 
required every other day, whilst those in wide beds may only need it 
once a week. Ordinarily water is required about twice a week. Reduce 
the fruits on a plant to three or four, and remove all flowers. Supply 
the needful supports to the fruits. Pinch laterals to one leaf, or remove 
them where likely to crowd the principal leaves. Syringe in the after¬ 
noon when the house is closed, say 3 to 4 p.m., and damp in the 
evening and morning. Ventilate at 75°, increasing the air with the 
advancing sun, have the temperature at 80° to 85° with alternate gleams, 
and 85° to 90° with the bright sunshine. Close at 80° to 85°, and 
increase to 90° or 100°. Fire heat should be used to maintain a night 
temperature of 65°, and 70° to 75° by day. 
Setting the Fruit. —Take care to have the foliage fairly thin, so 
that light and air have free access. Sturdy growths, leathery leaves, 
and strong blossoms should be the aim. When the latter appear venti¬ 
late a little constantly ; a gentle warmth in the pipes will promote a 
circulation of air. When the flowers are kept dry, and in a warm atmo¬ 
sphere, but not close. Melons set freely. Fertilise the blossoms about 
noon on fine days, when several are expanded on a plant, so as to insure 
uniformity of swelling, and stop at one joint beyond the fruit. 
Training Young Flants. —Those for trellises should be trained with 
one shoot and the laterals rubbed off up to the first wire, and then every 
alternate one on opposite sides, afterwards stopping the leading shoots 
when about two-thirds up the trellis. Flowers ought to show on the 
laterals. If no fruit blossoms show pinch them at the second joint, and 
at one or two joints of the sub-laterals fruit will be shown. Plants in 
frames should be stopped at the second leaf. If this only results in two 
shoots stop them at the second joint and select four of the resulting 
shoots, training two to the front and two to the back of the frame or 
pit. Remove all others whilst quite small, and keep the stem clear of 
laterals and leaves for a space of at least 6 inches from the collar. Rub 
off every alternate lateral on the shoots, stopping the leaders about 
15 inches from the sides of the pit or frame. Let there be no deficiency 
of moisture at the roots, and add fresh soil as the roots protrude. 
Sprinkle the plants at closing time, but avoid wetting the stems, as it 
may lead to canker. Continue to put out plants as frames become 
vacant or houses are available. A slight shade from powerful sun for 
an hour or two at midday is necessary, especially after a period of dull 
weather. 
Cn CUMBERS. —When the night temperature can be prevented from 
falling below 65° artificial heat may be dispensed with, making the 
most of sun heat by early closing. Look over the plants twice a week, 
well thinning out the old growths, and supplying liquid manure twice 
a week. Syringe only in the afternoon, but damp in the morning and 
through the day so as to maintain a good moisture in the house. With 
the ends of the houses north and south a slight shade becomes necessary, 
as from 4 to 5.30 in the afternoon there is danger of the foliage being 
scorched. 
Pits and frames should be closed at 3 to 4 p.m., assisting plants in 
bearing with liquid manure, keeping it from the foliage. Remove bad 
leaves, thin out exhausted and too close growths, and stop young 
growths one or two joints beyond the fruit. Wbere plants are enfeebled 
by bearing top-dress with lumpy loam, and layer some of the younger 
growths at a joint, from which roots will be emitted and strengthen tbe 
succeeding growths. Night coverings will not now be necessary, but 
it is important to attend to the ventilation early, and not let the sun 
act on the foliage whilst it is wet so as to scorch, nor let the temperature 
rise to a high degree and then admit a quantity of air and produce a 
chill, which causes stunted fruits, many of which turn yellow at the 
ends instead of swelling. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
French Pelargoniums —Plants that have done flowering may be 
stood outside to harden in an open sunny place. When the wood has 
become hard cut the plants well back, and allow them to start again into 
growth. These plants will be ready for pinching in September, and 
thus flower early the following season. A good number of cuttings from 
these may be inserted in a border outside, where nearly everyone will 
root. We find this the best method of propagating the plants. The 
latest plants should not be pinched after this date, but allowed to come 
into flower under cool airy conditions. All plants that have filled their 
pots with roots should have weak stimulants given them every time 
water is needed. Failing this give artificial manure to the surface of 
the soil. Under liberal treatment these plants continue to flower for a 
long time. 
Zonal Varieties. —Those required for autumn and winter flowering 
may, if they have been well hardened, be placed in their flowering 
pots and stood outside. In potting press the soil firmly into the pots, 
using a compost of good loam and one-seventh of manure, with a little 
sand if the loam is of a heavy nature. Place the plants in an open 
sunny position, and water them carefully until they are rooting freely in 
the fresh soil. Ivy-leaved kinds may be subjected to the same treat¬ 
ment. They are very useful during autumn and winter, but need to be 
thoroughly ripened, or they will not flower satisfactorily. 
Tuheroxis Begonias. —the earliest plants into the pots in which 
they are to flower, and grow them in a cool airy house. Shade only for 
a few hours from the brightest sunshine. Those raised from cuttings 
will make capital plants in 5-inch pots, in which size they may be 
placed as soon as they are well rooted. Seedlings may be potted singly 
in 2-inch pots, or pricked into boxes until they are large enough for 
4-inch pots. If they are not wanted to flower this season the best may 
be marked and grown in pots another year. , Seedlings do well if a 
slight hotbed can be formed in a frame, and the plants put out in 4 or 
5 inches of soil on the surface. 
Bouvardias —Keep the shoots of the earliest plants well pinched, and 
place them in the pots in which they are intended to flower. These 
should be given cold frames, and when well hardened, abundance of air. 
Young stock raised from roots may be placed into 5-inch pots. Do not 
pinch these until they are 7 or 8 inches high. If allowed to attain 
strength before they are pinched they invariably throw up freely from 
the base, and make good plants. 
Callas. —Those that have done flowering may be planted in well 
manured ground outside. In planting out partially reduce the balls, 
and if the plants are large break them up, and remove small useless 
suckers. These, if required, may be planted out for flowering in 5-inch 
pots. In this size the plants are most useful for grouping and other 
furnishing purposes. These plants are easily grown, and will yield their 
flowers over a period of six months in succession, so that they are 
invaluable for large conservatories or where groups are required in the 
dwelling house. Too many cannot well be grown. 
Salvias. —These may be planted out wbere this system of culture is 
favoured. It is a good plan, because the plants grow rapidly, and only 
need attention in pinching. Moreover, considerable labour is saved 
over growing the plants in pots. These plants do not suffer by lifting 
during September. 
Solanums. —These should be in cold frames, and abundance of air 
given them. If not in the pots in which they are to berry no time 
should be lost in putting them in. They do well planted out if a 
frame can be set apart for them until they are well established. In 
planting them out the base should be firm, so that they can be lifted 
with good balls. When grown in pots great care is needed in supplying 
the plants with water or the foliage turns yellow. When planted out 
this does not occur with ordinary care, and the plants frequently attain 
double ihe size they would in pots. 
Hydrangeas. —Those that have failed to show flowers and have 
lengthened out their growths may have the tops removed and rooted. 
The old plant can then be thrown away. The tops root freely in small 
pots in any warm close place ; they should afterwards be grown fully 
exposed to the sun, and are then certain to form bold flower buds. 
Plants started on purpose to yield cuttings may, when they have 
lengthened out their growths, have the tops rooted. The old stools may 
be stood outside. 
THE APIARY. 
Spiteful Bees. 
This is a time when the beginner in bee-keeping is apt to 
become disgusted with his bees, because they are so spiteful when 
he is not interfering with them, but only dressing his flower 
beds. This is one of the actions that tend greatly to make bees 
spiteful. If bees be irritated they will frequently annoy people 
the whole of the summer, therefore all work in the garden near 
the hives ought to be performed after they cease working, or 
