444 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ June 9, 1892. 
Reverse iTames (^Showman'). —You appear to rejoice in your dis¬ 
covery. We can give you another and much older example in the name 
of the Blruge Nectarine. The name Elruge is derived from an anagram 
of Gurle or Gourle, who was a nurseryman at Hoxton, or Hogsden, as it 
was then called, near London. It is he of whom Leonard Meager speaks 
when, writing in 1670, he says, “ Here follows a catalogue of divers sorts 
of fruit which I had of my very loving friend Captain Garrle, dwelling 
at the great nursery between Spittlefields and Whitechappel, a very 
eminent and ingenious nurseryman, who can furnish any that desireth 
with any of the sorts hereafter mentioned ; as also with divers other 
rare and choice plants.” Switzer says : “ The Elrouge Nectarine is also 
a native of our own, the name being the reverse of Gourle, a famous 
nurseryman at Hogsden in Charles the Second’s time, by whom it was 
raised.” 
Calceolarias Falling: (T. F. TF.).— The flowers were quite 
withered, but we understand the condition of the plants. The seed 
had nothing to do with the collapse. There has been a difference in 
some points in culture or of surroundings that influence the growth 
of these plants. They may have received a check in winter, or the 
atmosphere has been too dry for them. Similar failures frequently 
occur when the plants have been too root-bound in small pots before 
being shifted into larger, and especially when the soil in the small pots 
has been too dry at the time of repotting. In such cases the root action 
is never so vigorous as it should be, and though it may be sufficient to 
support the plants till flowers commence expanding, the strain on their 
resources then becomes too great and collapse ensues. The failure is 
more certain if the soil is too light and sandy in character. With an 
abundance of roots actively working in sound fertile soil, and the plants 
kept scrupulously free from insects. Calceolarias remain in beauty for a 
considerable time and then ripen good crops of seed, a much more 
exhausting process than flowering. 
Strawberries Undeveloped (<7. Ji).—The fruits sent have been 
prevented swelling through exposure to drying currents of air or 
excessive evaporation. When a large amount of air is admitted in bright 
weather after a dull period, the ventilation not commencing till the sun 
has acted some time on the house and raised the temperature, moisture is 
condensed on the fruit, which does not heat so quickly as the moisture¬ 
laden atmosphere, and the current of air acting directly on the fruits, 
dries and hardens their skins so that they are pi evented developing, and 
they become discoloured and ripen prematurely. It is a very common 
occurrence in houses that have the Strawberry plants so placed that the 
air admitted blows directly upon the fruit whilst that is exposed to the 
full influence of the sun. The only remedy is to admit air earlier, place 
the plarits where they will not be subjected to dry currents on the same 
level as the fruits, maintain a more genial and regular condition of the 
atmosphere, and keep them well, but not excessively, supplied with 
water at the roots. The evil is more likely to occur with the later than 
the earlier plants ; in fact, that is where and when it does happen 
through the larger admittance of air, and consequently greater evapora¬ 
tion in arresting the development of the fruits. 
Bordeaux Mixture — Tomato Disease Preventives (^F. IF.). 
— Differing proportions of sulphate of copper and lime have been 
recommended for preparing the Bordeaux mixture. Mr. Henry 
Fincham appears to have tried several, and found some of them 
corroded the foliage. He finds 7 lbs. of sulphate of copper with an 
equal quantity of lime safe and effectual. He bruises the sulphate of 
copper to a fine powder to facilitate solution. The number you name, 
July 18th. 1891, is in stock, and such matter as you appear to desire 
pertaining to the Tomato disease may be found in the issues of 
June 18th, July 9th, and August 6th, 1891, also in March 24th, 1892. Any 
of the numbers can be had on sending S^d. each for them to the publisher. 
All liquid applications should be used in the form of spray on the very 
first symptoms of leaf discoloration. Carbonate of copper in solution or 
suspension are considered preferable to the Bordeaux mixture for the 
prevention of fungoid attacks. Both are referred to on page 425 last 
week, under “ Bed Rust on Roses.” Since you wish to try experiments 
yon will perhaps not overlook the powder referred to by Mr. Fenn on 
page 408 of the same issue. 
Plants for Greenhouse (^Buxtic ).—As you would like flowers in 
winter the house should be heated, having sufficient 4-iDch hot-water 
pipes to maintain a night temperature of 40° to 45°, and 5° more by 
day. A small boiler would suffice. The following are useful plants :— 
Abutilon Boule de Neige, Acacia armata, Aralia Sieboldi, Aspidistra 
lurida variegata. Azalea indica vars. Deutsche Perle, Jean Vervaene, 
and Kaiser Wilhelm; Camellias Alba Plena, C. M. Hovey, and Mrs. 
Cope; Cyclamen persicum, Cytisus racemosus elegans, Farfugium 
grande, Hydrangea hortensis, Myrtus communis angustifolia. Plumbago 
capensis, Sparmannia africana, and Vallota purpurea. In addition to 
those you can have Begonia Dregei, B. Weltoniensis, and Tuberous 
varieties. Tree Carnations Mdlle. Carle, Miss Joliffe, and Souvenir de la 
Malmaison ; Epacrises hyacinthiflora, Mont Blanc, and Vesuvius; 
Ericas gracilis autumnalis, hyemalis, and melanthera; Fuchsias Miss 
Lucy Finnis, Champion of the World, Mignonne, and Earl of Beacons- 
field ; Heliotropes peruvianum and The Queen ; Lilium auratum, 
L. speciosum ; Show Pelargoniums Brilliant, Statesman, and Claribel ; 
Spotted Pelargoniums Captain Raikes, Duchess of Edinburgh, and 
Volontd Nationale; Fancy Pelargoniums Fanny Gair, Mrs. Mendel, and 
The Shah ; Double-flowered Zonals La Cygne, Erl King, and Dolabel ; 
Ivy-leaved Galilee, Berthelot, and Newton ; Zonals Charles Mason, 
Queen of the Belgians, and Mrs. David Saunders; Primula sinensis in 
variety, and Cineraria in variety. Then there are bulbs such as 
Hyacinths, Narcissi, and Tulips, with Deutzia gracilis. Dielytra specta- 
bilis, Lily of the Valley, Spiraea japonica, and many others, including 
Roses, which might be employed, not forgetting that Chrysanthemums 
make a fine display in autumn. 
Removing: Marechal Ulel Rose In Tune (JT. i.).—If (we 
particularly desired to remove from a greenhouse a Marshal Niel that 
was planted last year we should not hesitate to transplant the Rose 
even at the present time, and with special care in management we 
should expect it to grow. In the first place, the site must be prepared 
for its reception before removal, as the shorter the time the roots are 
out of the ground the better, and they must certainly not be allowed 
to become dry. Next cut down the growths already made to dormant 
buds at the base of the stems, just as if pruning any ordinary Rose in 
early spring ; and if there are any leaves on the parts left cut them 
off also, and thus remove the evaporating surfaces through which the 
moisture would escape from the stems. Secure all the roots practicable, 
but cut every broken or jagged end quite smooth with a sharp knife. 
Plant quickly, but well ; give w'ater copiously, and mulch the surface 
of the soil with partially decayed manure. Shade the plant effectively 
and syringe frequently, keeping, if possible, the stems moist. A mat or 
covering of straw placed across them and kept damp would be service¬ 
able. If there is a clear Briar stem wrap this with haybands and 
saturate them daily, or twice a day in very dry weather. If the bark 
is kept perfectly fresh, as it may be, growths will soon push as if it 
were spring, extend considerably during the summer, and the lower 
parts at least will ripen in the autumn. This advice is founded on 
experience in transplanting Roses under special circumstances at mid¬ 
summer. If the bark shrinks through exposure to the sun or dry air 
the plant will die. Ttie shrinkage cannot be prevented by watering the 
roots alone, however copiously, and the secret of success rests in pre¬ 
venting the escape of moisture from the stems by evaporation, but 
there will be little or no loss of that kind if they are kept damp. 
Grapes Shanking: (^Outsider ').—From your particulars of the treat¬ 
ment of the Vines we gather that there must be a large amount of 
humus in the soil and a deficiency of mineral substances. From the 
extensive use of liquid manure there cannot be any lack of nitrogenous 
matter. The mulching will increase the humus, though it may tend to 
the feeding of the Vines by promoting of surface roots. The mechanical 
formation of the border may be all that is needed, but its chemical 
components must be defective in some essential particular. It may be 
deficient in lime. Chalk would be the proper substance to apply to a 
light soil, or preferably clay marl, as there would then be added 
aluminum and iron as well as lime. For the present we should use 
superphosphate two parts and gypsum (sulphate of lime) one part, 
applying at the rate of 1 lb. to a square yard, lightly pointing in, and 
well watering afterwards. It cannot do other than benefit the Vines 
provided the superphosphate does not contain too much acid. A good 
dressing of air-slaked (not quicklime) about 2 inches thick and mixed 
with the soil in the autumn as deeply as the roots allow would aid in the 
formation of nitrate of calcium, and that, we think, is what the Vines 
require. It is essential to deriving the fullest benefit from the liquid and 
solid manures applied. Another season rve should rely on free applica¬ 
tions of the following mixture, commencing when starting the Vines :— 
Steamed bonemeal three parts, sulphate of potash one part, gypsum 
(sulphate of limq) one part, mixed, and applied at the rate of 2 lbs. per 
square yard when the Vines are starting into growth, repeating when 
the fruit is set, and again when stoned ; otherwise pursue the treatment 
hitherto followed. The manure you name is excel ent for Vines, and 
may be used according to the instructions. What the Vines need is 
phosphates to counteract the tendency of the other elements supplied too 
freely under prevailing conditions. We doubt if anything that you 
might apply now would enable such bunches as you have sent to finish 
satisfactorily, but we think the Vines may be improved another year by 
eocouraging surface roots and feeding with mineral fertilisers. The 
border should be firm ; the bunches do not indicate it is so firm as it 
should be, and certainly the Vines are not. 
Xilllum Harris! (N. L. B .').—If the bulbs are 7 to 9 inches in 
circumteience you will require 8-inch pots for three of them. After 
potting they should be stood in frames, and the space betwmen the pots 
filled with ashes, and about 1 inch of the same material or cocoa-nut 
fibre refuse spread over the surface. Shade the frame to prevent the 
necessity for watering until growth appears through the plunging 
material. If the soil at potting time is in an intermediate state for 
moisture, and the plunging material kept damp, they will need no water 
until they have grown through. When they have reached this stage 
they may be placed on a shelf close to the glass with some moisture¬ 
holding material beneath them ; any house will do for them where they 
can enjoy abundance of light and a free circulation of air daily. Sturdy 
growth must be maintained. The temperature from the time they are 
removed from the plunging material may range about 50°. Plenty of 
air must be given, or they will draw up weakly and fail to flower 
satisfactorily. This is not all, for they soon become a prey to aphides 
if kept in a close confined atmosphere. They should not be placed in. 
a higher temperature until the flower buds have formed and display 
signs of developing, say are 1 inch in length. The temperature, after 
this stage has been reached, should not exceed 60°. A sate temperature 
is 55° to 60°, according to external conditions. Liliums do not like 
forcing, and if over-forced the flower buds often turn yellow and never 
develop. If unduly forced in their later stages the flowers become 
