462 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ June 16, 1892. 
the demand and be started at once. These will afford plants for fruiting 
about this time next year, and form a supplementary batch to those 
started in spring. They require a close, rather moist pit, and a bottom heat 
of 85° to 95°. Pay careful attention to shading and damp as required. 
Spring-potted Suckers. —If the strongest of those potted last March 
are not in tbeir fruiting pots they must not be kept longer in the small 
pots, as that stunts their growth and weakens them, so that they do not 
do well afterwards. When given their fruiting pots the plants should 
have a regular bottom heat of 85° to 95°, and be thoroughly well watered 
after potting, not giving any more until the soil becomes dry, always 
avoiding a too wet soil, as that is not favourable to the formation of roots. 
Young Stock. —The succession plants are now making rapid progress, 
and must not be crowded, or that will result in attenuated growth and 
poor shows of fruit. Afford them ample space so as to secure a sturdy 
growth. Have the foliage dry before it is affected by the sun, venti¬ 
lating early in the day at 75° to 80°. Watering should be attended to 
once a week, not giving any until it is found by examination to be 
needed, and then afford a thorough supply of tepid liquid manure, being 
careful not to apply it too strong. Syringe the plants on fine after¬ 
noons, and otherwise maintain a genial condition of the atmosphere by 
damping the house, but avoid a very moist atmosphere in dull weather, 
as it only tends to a soft growth, and that is seldom satisfactory when 
the weather becomes bright, often rendering shade imperative to prevent 
scorching. While water remains in the axils of the leaves syringing is 
not required, and in watering pour the water well up the plants, as they 
have roots in the axils of the leaves at the base, which assist their 
growth and make them sturdy. 
Plants for Winter Fruiting. —If the strongest of the plants placed 
in their fruiting pots last September are not showing fruit means must 
be taken to effect it. Bring them together and subject them to a resting 
process for a period of four to six weeks, lowering the heat at the roots 
to 75°, ventilating at'75°, and closing at the same temperature, main¬ 
taining a free circulation of air about the plants in favourable weather, 
only employing artificial heat to prevent the temperature falling below 
60° at night. Water should not be withheld, but do not give any until 
a plant becomes dry, and then afford a liberal supply. When the small 
suckers of last autumn that were wintered in 7 or 8-inch pots, and 
shifted this spring into the fruiting pots, have filled them with roots, 
they may be subjected to the same treatment as advised for the larger 
plants, and these will afford a successional supply of fruit. 
Fruiting Plants. —Those with the crowns in close proximity to the 
glass will require a slight shade from powerful sun, otherwise they may 
become disfigured, and the fruit also is prejudiced by exposure to fierce 
sun. Cease syringing when the fruits commence to colour, supplying 
water to the roots as necessary, but avoid excessive supplies, as a wet 
state of the soil is apt to cause the fruit to become black in the centre. 
Ventilation improves the quality of the fruit, therefore admit air when¬ 
ever circumstances permit, not allowing the temperature to fall below 
80° in the daytime, ;^nd maintain it at 70° to 75° at night. Queen and 
Providence Pines started into fruit early in February will ripen this 
month, they coming in three weeks to a month in advance of Smooth¬ 
leaved Cayenne, Charlotte Rothschild, and similar varieties started at 
the same time and under similar conditions. They afford a good suc¬ 
cessional supply, which may be still further extended by removing some 
of the plants with the fruits to a cooler house. These fruits are much 
superior in freshness and using qualities to imported, the noble speci¬ 
mens that are the outcome of superior cultivation completely eclipsing 
those produced abroad. The Providence Pine has a fine effect in table 
decorations, and, though not equal to a Queen in quality, should be 
grown in limited number for its superior size and showy appearance. 
Fruiting Pines should have a bottom heat of 85° to 90°. 
Strawberries in Pots. —Perhaps the finest of all fruit is grown in 
pots in cool houses and pits or frames, where they receive little or no 
heat beyond that of the sun ; the plants starting naturally, and coming 
on gradually, ripen fully a fortnight earlier than those in the open 
ground, and are vastly superior in size. There is much to be said in 
favour of the large fruited varieties, which, in such kinds as British Queen, 
Dr. Hogg, and Cockscomb are grown to great advantage under glass, as 
regards quality and perfection. Of the large kinds those are un¬ 
questionably far ahead .of all Strawberries for quality, but there is no 
lack of flavour in such varieties as President, Sir Joseph Paxton, 
Marguerite, Auguste Nicaise, Sir Charles Napier, and Unser Fritz, which 
have using properties that appeal to different tastes. They are bright in 
colour, and are the best half dozen we have grown for succession in a 
cool house. Noble is also a grand fruit and very freely produced, but 
its colour is not pleasing, nor the shape equal to James Veitch. 
The latter is another large Strawberry not remarkable for quality, nor 
the briskness so much appreciated in such kinds as Sir Charles Napier, 
which is very taking in appearance. These late batches require 
abundant supplies of water and free ventilation, but they should not 
be stood on shelves where they will be exposed to a current of air 
blowing directly upon the foliage and fruit, for the first is then very 
subject to red spider, and the latter to become dried, browned in the 
skin, and prevented swelling. The air should be admitted below the 
plants, and moisture be prevented from being deposited on the fruit 
after it turns colour by a little air constantly, keeping it clear of the 
pot or soil by forked sticks, and withholding water from it, otherwise 
these large fruits are very liable to spot and decay. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Neioly Planted Beds. —-Constantly saturating these with cold spring 
water is not calculated to favour an early and strong growth of the 
plants generally, added to which it greatly impoverishes the ground. 
After the plants have had two or three good waterings, or enough to 
keep the old balls of soil and roots moist till such time as the roots 
have struck out into the surreunding soil, lightly hoe over and level the 
surface, also applying, where possible, a mulch of cocoa-nut fibre, leaf 
soil, spent tan, or even fresh dry soil. If this treatment can follow a 
good soaking rain, not much more assistance from the watering pot will 
be wanted for some time. Failing rain give a good watering, preferably 
with pond or open tank water, prior to mulching. Many of the plants 
would, when first put out, be all the better for temporary shadings, a 
few branches of deciduous trees stuck among them, so as to shade those 
most needing it, doing a great deal of good. Light overhead waterings 
are beneficial after hot days ; but this is very different to drenching the 
beds with cold water. 
Tuberous Begonias. —About the second week in June is the safest 
time in many localities to plant these, and if they have been well 
prepared in boxes of rich soil they will move readily. A poor dry 
site will not suit them. What they require is a fairly rich, moisture¬ 
holding, root run, and they are especially partial to a mixture of 
half-decayed leaves and manure, or such as will have done duty 
previously as a hotbed. Place plenty of this within easy distance of 
the roots, and the Begonias will revel in it. Strong plants may well 
go out 12 inches apart each way, 9 inches being enough for small 
seedlings. For early effect carpet between the Begonias with Mesem- 
bryanthemum cordifolium variegatum, this also serving to keep the 
ground cool and moist underneath. If no carpeting plants are used a 
mulch of either cocoa-nut fibre, well-decayed manure, or leaf soil 
should he given early. A few plants of variegated Maize, seedling 
Gannas, and such like are very effective dotted among Begonias. Small 
seedlings of the latter should be kept in the boxes or pans in which 
they are pricked out, and in gentle heat for a fortnight longer, and be 
then hardened off and planted out 4 inches or rather more apart in a 
well-prepared border or bed. All will most probably flower in August 
or soon enough to show what they are like, and a capital lot of 
serviceable little tubers be available for storing. 
Hot Corners. —There are many dry and hot corners and beds that 
are with the greatest difficulty kept gay during the summer. If there 
are any plants of dwarf Nasturtiums available, these will be found 
among the best that can be grown in such places ; and Petunias, 
Marguerites, Golden Pyrethrum, Tagetes, Love-lies-bleeding, and 
Antirrhinums stand drought well. Such places are also the best for 
the strong-growing double-flowering Zonal Pelargoniums, and the latter 
family generally might be made to thrive and flower abundantly in dry 
beds if the latter were well prepared for them at the outset. Fork good 
solid manure freely into the surface, give a good soaking of water in the 
evening prior to planting next day, and keep the plants well supplied 
with water till well established, after which they will most probably 
do well. 
Stocks and Wallflowers. —Now is a good time to sow seed of the red 
and white Brompton Stocks. Seeing that they do not come up particu¬ 
larly well in the open sow the seed thinly in boxes of good light soil, 
and keep in a cool frame or in an open spot where they will not be 
overlooked, shading and keeping uniformly moist till the seedlings are 
up. When about 2 inches high, and after being duly exposed to the 
full sunshine and air, prick out the seedlings in somewhat sheltered 
positions. Both double German and the ordinary Wallflowers make the 
finest plants when the seed is sown eayly in May, but there is yet time 
to raise useful plants. Select an open spot and fairly good ground, 
draw shallow drills 9 inches apart, and if these are at all dry give a 
gentle watering prior to sowing the seed thinly and evenly. Seedlings 
may be eventually thinned to 6 inches apart, the thinnings being 
pricked out, if need be, elsewhere. 
Campanula Medium. —This section will shortly be in full flower, and 
promise to be very gay. If not already done stake each plant. After 
the first burst of flower very lightly shorten the branches so as to remove 
all the seed pods, and another good display will most probably result. 
Plants to flower next season ought now to be ready for pricking out into 
pans or boxes, and from these they should be early transferred to beds 
or borders. If planted in fairly good ground they ought to be disposed 
fully 12 inches apart, and will then make grand plants either for 
lifting or to flower where they are. 
Polyanthuses and Primroses. —Seedlings of these ought now to be 
of good size or large enough for pricking out in the open spaces between 
fruit bushes, a little shade suiting them well. They pay for good 
culture, the strains distributed now-a-days being very superior. Old 
plants lifted from the flower beds, may, if wanted, [be divided and re¬ 
planted in a shady position, and again prepared for the flower beds, but 
these rarely equal strong seedlings for effect. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Cauliflowers. —These ougtit now to be plentiful, though the 
season has been rather against them, premature hearting being some¬ 
what prevalent. Nothing can be done with those that “ button” before 
they are well established, but comparatively small yet well-rooted plants 
can be made to produce serviceable heads by feeding at the roots. Give 
all the Cauliflowers that are commencing to heart liberal supplies of 
liquid manure (dribblets are thrown away on them), and they will 
amply repay for the trouble. In order to blanch the “ curds ” properly 
either tie the leaves well together over them or gather lower leaves, or 
some from plants that have been cut from, and fold these over them. 
Keep a close look-out for caterpillars, one or two of these quickly spoil¬ 
ing Cauliflowers. The principal crop of Autumn Giant ought to be well 
