June 16, 189J. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
463 
established either between widely planted Potatoes or in a good open 
quarter, while if more are put out now a good succession will be 
provided. Plants obtained by sowing in the open early in May and 
planted in close succession to early Potatoes will frequently prove very 
serviceable late in the autumn. It scarcely pays to put out other 
varieties of Cauliflowers so late as this, though an exception may be 
made in favour of Eclipse, an early form of Autumn Giant. 
Cabbages.—a sprinkling of nitrate of soda or, better still, a good 
soaking of liquid manure or sewage water, the former being washed in 
by rains or the watering pot, will hasten the growth and improve the 
quality of Cabbage considerably. Liquid manure can be most readily 
and effectively applied if the rows of plants are rather heavily moulded 
up, the furrows between them being filled with the liquid. Do not cut 
over the hearted-in plants too severely, but rather leave several strong 
lower leaves, this favouring a strong break, and a good second crop of 
hearts. Spring-raised plants are the most numerous this season, and 
the second crop from these will or ought to be particularly good next 
autumn and winter. Now is a good time to sow seed of the small-grow¬ 
ing Cabbages or Coleworts, of which there are none more serviceable 
than the London Rosette. Plants of these duly put out 12 inches apart 
each way will provide numerous good dishes early next winter. Chou 
de Burghley should be treated as late Cabbage, and not as Broccoli. 
When planted early and given much room the plants attain a great size, 
and the hearts are coarse and of little value. Supposing the seed to 
have been sown late in April or early in May the plants will now be 
ready for their final quarters. Let them have fairly good well-firmed 
ground, and if disposed not more than 15 inches or rather more apart 
each way coarseness will be guarded against, a supply of very good 
hearts being had for winter use. 
Potatoes. —Only the earliest of these were cut down by frosts, and 
since good soaking rains have fallen the progress made has been most 
satisfactory. Even the latest planted ought now to be sufficiently 
advanced for hoeing between and moulding up, and this ought to be 
completed before the dry weather sets in. Late dressings of soot or 
special manures are sometimes of good service, but not if a dry time 
sets in soon after application. Apply it prior to hoeing between the 
rows, and if there is a good prospect of heavy rains falling delay the 
moulding up for a few days longer. If there is good space, or not 
much less than 3 feet, between the rows mould up the rows rather 
heavily, this to a certain extent acting as a preventive of disease. 
Now is a good time to commence experiments with the Bordeaux 
mixture with a view to disease prevention. Previous trials with 
sulphate of copper and quicklime have not proved altogether satis¬ 
factory, largely owing, it is thought, to the ease with which it is washed 
or dislodged from the foliage; but this can be remedied by the addition 
of molasses. What is now considered the most effective mixture con¬ 
sists of 5 lbs. of sulphate of copper, 6 lbs. of quicklime, 5 lbs. of molasses, 
and 25 gallons of water. In preparing this for use first dissolve the 
copper and lime separately in wooden vessels, and dilute the molasses 
with 3 gallons of water. All the water used to dissolve the different 
materials should be included in the total first recommended. Well mix 
all together and very lightly spray the haulm with it, taking care that 
the mixture is kept well stirred while in use. Two applications, one now 
and another three weeks hence, should be sufficient to ward off disease, 
and most probably in the case of early varieties one spraying will be all 
that is needed. 
Thinning Ceops.—I f good use has been made of the flat or Dutch 
hoe among advancing crops weeds will be scarce, and the progress of 
the different plants most satisfactory. Hand-weeding ought also to 
have been well attended to, leaving the weeds till they are strongly 
rooted being, to say the least, most unwise. Beet is not often sown 
excessively thick, but all the same the thinning-out must not be 
neglected. Leave the plants 8 inches apart, or thereabouts, and if there 
are any gaps in the rows dibble out a few of the thinnings more for the 
sake of appearance than for the value of the roots that may be obtained. 
Carrot seed was evidently not so good as usual, but if it was sown some¬ 
what thickly there is yet much thinning out needed. Do this liefore the 
ground becomes hard, though the Horn varieties may be thinned out 
according as the young roots are wanted for use, eventually leaving 
them about 4 inches apart. The Nantes Horn and Guerande keep 
remarkably well, and ought not, therefore, to be cleared off wholesale. 
Thin out large-rooted varieties early, leaving them from 6 inches to 
9 inches apart, the former distance being ample if the rows are 
12 inches apart. Leave Chicory about 8 inches apart, and extra fine 
Carrot-like roots will then be obtained. Onions ought never to 
be sown thickly, and then there is no necessity to disturb and 
injure those that do come up. What thinning out is needed 
ought to be done early, leaving the plants about 4 inches asun er 
answering well when the rows are 10 inches and upwards apart, but 
more room, or another 3 inches, should be allowed if extra fine roots are 
desired. Hoe between the rows frequently, stirring in a dressing of soot 
during showery weather, this acting as a good fertiliser and a deterrent 
of maggot. Salsafy and Scorzonera do not require so much space as 
they often receive. Good roots can be had by thinning to a distance of 
8 inches apart. Lightly thin out the early short-topped Turnips, but 
Snowball should be thinned more freely, these being left about 9 inches 
apart. 
Seeds to be Sown. —Peas of the Ne Plus Ultra type are the best 
for present sowing ; Emperor of the Marrows, British Queen, Latest of 
All, and others with a strong constitution, also doing well late in the 
season. They ought to have a deep and rich root run, and never become 
dry at the roots. Runner Beans should be sown for a late supply where 
those earlier raised are liable to fail before the season is over. Sow 
Lettuce where the plants are to remain ; these also require good well- 
manured ground. Cool borders are the best sites for Turnips just now, 
and also for Spinach, the Victoria being the best variety for present 
sowing. 
1 
HB BEE-KBBPER. 
ma -- 1 .1 . 1 . 1 ■ 1 . 1 -i ., ., ■ , .1 > 1 .j t .j .j - 1.1 
The Weather. 
After one week’s fair weather the temperature rose in the 
shade to 85° on the 9th, but on the following day it fell to 50°, 
the evening temperatures being equal. The temperature of the 
7th was 76°, and it was the best day of the season for the bees^ 
The 9th was too fiery, and they in a great measure remained idle, 
forecasting the change of weather we have had. 
Punic Bees. 
From their susceptibility to changes of weather these bees 
remained almost inactive during the inclement weather. One 
Punic stock nearly ready to swarm destroyed its drones in about 
half an hour without the slightest warning. In some respects this 
is a good point, but where we wish the drones preserved it is a bad 
one. The hives are all crowded, and honey-yielding flowers in the 
fields will soon be profuse. Any day may bring a favourable 
change, when it will be a busy time for the ap'arist having swarms, 
and supering. This will be performed on every hive, whether 
intended for swarming or not. Supering may be the means of 
delaying swarming, but will not prevent it. 
The Lanarkshire Hive. 
Having been indisposed for some time I am in arrears with 
correspondence, and take the advantage of answering several 
queries through the Journal. In answer to “ E. S. A.,” two 
divisions of the Lanarkshire hive are sufficient for any swarm 
when the surplus is wanted in supers. The third division is 
allowed only in good seasons, or when two queens’ progeny are 
allowed, be they in united swarms or brood combs ; in fact, the 
apiarist must exercise his own judgment when the third division 
will be the most profitable, whether it be for extracting pur¬ 
poses or to give ample space for ready storage, and a prolific queen, 
but in no case supply bees with a third division minus built 
combs or comb foundation. 
Not more than two of the blocks of wood between the top 
bars at each side should be removed, and it is better to remove one 
only, as it prevents the soiling of the super combs, and keeps the 
queen down, or rather the bees do not prepare the cells for brood, 
as they do when all the crown is open. The secret to prevent 
brood in supers is to give the queen ample space below. The 
close crown, too, conserves the heat of the brood nest. 
Supers are placed directly over the top. Sections are placed 
in cases, one or more to cover the crown, and as many deep as 
the bees can occupy. I prefer two, as recently explained, and 
the top division along with the upper and deeper one serve as 
super protectors, which must be made to slip easily inside. Section 
cases have bearers a quarter of an inch thick nailed in the rebate 
bottom edge of the case. 
The whole of my hives winter excellently in two divisions 
with the others in position, which hold 4 to 6 inches of dried 
grass as packing, the outside of the hive covered with two plies 
of sacking, soft felt, or house-flannel, which is again covered 
with an oilcloth. A curved sheet of iron protects the top and 
sends the drip right off the hive. The ventilating floor should 
be kept closed at all times unless during transit, or in exception¬ 
ally warm days during the daytime only. Never lower the 
temperature of the hive in the busy season more than is necessary. 
The floor gives a free circulation of air without a draught when 
closed, and as great a draught a little open as when removed. 
