Jane 30, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
499 
have been well thinned out and also kept free of weeds, another light 
hoeing should be given, and cracking would be further prevented if a 
mulch of grass from the mowing machine or other short material is given 
•at once. A showery time is much the best for applying liquid manure, 
and in the case of Peas and Beans let the latter be given after a good 
over-night watering. It is simply wasted on dry ground and may easily 
do more harm than good. 
Beussels Sprouts. —These may yet be planted with every prospect 
•of remunerative late crops being obtained, and late planting is really 
desirable where those first put out fail early. Those put out among 
early Potatoes should not be overgrown, and it is not necessary to 
wait for the haulm to die off before lifting the Potatoes. Directly the 
intervening spaces are cleared mould up the rows of Brussels Sprouts, 
and they will then require little or no further attention. 
Broccoli. —The rains have come just right for these, and if the 
plants are mqch longer kept in the seed beds they will be of little 
service. The bulk of Veitch’s Autumn Protecting ought to be already 
well established, but later raised plants should also be planted in 
quantity, this variety being invaluable for lifting and storing for early 
and midwinter use. A good breadth of Snow’s Winter White may well 
succeed the earliest Peas on warm borders, and Walcheren sometimes 
proves very serviceable if similarly treated. No manuring or digging 
IS necessary or advisable. Simply clear the ground of all rubbish, well 
hoeing the surface, and then draw deep drills 30 inches apart. Should the 
ground be somewhat dry soak these drills with water or liquid manure 
over-night, and dibble out the Broccoli 2 feet, or 30 inches apart if the 
ground is rich in the drills. Successional and late varieties ought also 
to be put out as soon as possible. If they are planted on newly manured 
and deeply dug ground see that this is made very firm, the hardiest 
Broccoli being grown on the most solid ground. Also give the plants good 
room, the rows of the strongest growers being placed 3 feet apart, and the 
plants 30 inches asunder in the rows. Broccoli ought to be kept as much as 
possible in the highest part of the garden where they will frequently 
-survive any grown in the lower parts. They not unfrequeutly do 
remarkably well when planted in close succession to Peas and 
Strawberries, the ground only being cleared of rubbish, and not dug for 
planting. 
Borecole and Savoys. —The former cannot well be put out too 
soon, extra strong stems producing by far the most greens. It is not 
yet too late to plant though, and seeing how very hardy and serviceable 
they usually prove, room should be found for comparatively large 
numbers of them. Read’s Hearting is particularly desirable, this giving 
•a well-blanched and very mildly flavoured heart in addition to a good 
supply of greens. Both the tall and dwarf Scotch or Green Curled are 
valuable, while the Cottager’s Kale, if grown strongly, is even more 
productive. All should be flrmly planted 2 feet apart on fairly rich 
ground. The Buda is the hardiest Kale of all, and requires the least 
room. In some seasons it is greatly appreciated owing to its lateness, 
greens being freely produced up to the middle of Jui e. The rows of 
these may be 18 inches apart, 15 inches being allowed from plant to 
plant. 
Savoys. —Of these again it is scarcely possible to grow too many, 
though they may easily be had too early and coarse. They succeed well 
on comparatively cold borders, and if the ground is fairly rich and firm, 
very serviceable hardy crops will be had by planting in quantity now. 
The Tom Thumb section need not be put out more than 12 inches apart, 
and these will be the first to give tender blanched hearts. Early Dwarf 
dm forms a close succession, and 15 inches apart each way is enough 
for these. The same space answers well for Dwarf Green Curled and 
Gilbert’s Universal, while the later and coarser Drumhead should have 
an extra 3 inches each way. 
Puddling Plants. — Drawing the roots of Broccoli, Borecole, 
Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, and such like through a puddle formed of a 
■mixture of clay, soot and water so as to thoroughly coat them with this 
mixture is a good preventive of clubbing and grub attacks, and also 
prevents flagging. It is a very simple proceeding, and ought not to be 
omitted. When the plants generally are first put out a good watering 
■ought to be given, this effectually fixing the roots. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Zonal Pelargoniums. —Those plants required for winter flowering 
should, if not already done, be placed without delay in their flowering 
pots. Use for a compost good loam, one-seventh of decayed manure and 
sand. Press the soil firmly into the pots to prevent the plants making 
soft growth. When potted stand them on beds of ashes outside fully 
•exposed to the sun. 
French and Fancy Pelargoniums. —Those that flowered early and 
are past their best may be stood outside to ripen. If an increase of 
stock is needed the necessary cuttings may be inserted. It is a good 
plan to select strong cuttings and remove the point, so that when they 
start into growth three or four shoots are produced. These cuttings 
root with greater certainty if inserted in sandy soil in an outside border 
than if placed in pots and given cold frame treatment. On the former 
principle nearly every cutting can be relied upon to form roots. Late 
plants of early flowering kinds that are not wanted for flowering may 
be hard pinched or cut back, and stood outside until they start again 
into growth, when they may be transferred to 7-inch pots. These, if 
well cared for during the autumn and winter, and the shoots not 
pinched after the beginning of September, will flower profusely early in 
the season. 
Ity-leaced Pidargoniums. —These to flower well during the autumn 
and winter must have their wood thoroughly matured ; if grown soft 
they will not bloom satisfactorily. Place them outside in an open 
sunny position, and then when taken indoors in September they will 
flower profusely. These are useful plants for baskets, and cuttings may 
be inserted for this purpose as they can be obtained. 
Tuberous Begonias. —Seedlings and plants raised from cuttings may 
be placed in 5-inch pots, which will be large enough to flower them 
in this season. For decoration they are invaluable in these sizes, and 
flower so freely that they are very attractive. They must not be grown 
too warm. We find that they do well in the greenhouse, or even in 
cold frames at this season of the year. If grown in heat the plants 
draw up weakly, and do not last for any length of time. If grown cool 
they will flower until autumn. 
Chrysanthemums. —Those for large blooms will need constant atten¬ 
tion in disbudding, watering, and syringing. The plants will be 
branching freely at this stage, and no more shoots than are really re¬ 
quired should be allowed to extend. If aphides attack the points stamp 
them out at once by the application of tobacco powder. Keep the pots 
free from weeds and the plants from side growths ; be careful not to 
overwater the plants. Those that have been cut back may be allowed 
to extend without further pinching. The number of shoots from each 
pot should be selected. Where three plants have been placed in each 
pot twelve or more shoots may be taken, each bearing a good bloom. 
Those required for cut flowers and decoration only may be pinched 
again at once. We pinch them well back, not merely removing the 
point of the shoot. It is a good plan where plants with single blooms 
are needed for effective arrangements to take cuttings from them, insert 
them singly in small pots, and root them in cold frames. Early flowering 
kinds should not be stopped again ; allow the shoots to extend. Weak 
stimulants may be given if the plants are grown in small pots. One 
pound of nitrate of soda to 2 lbs. of superphosphate, mixed with 
40 gallons of water, will be found excellent for these plants. 
Calceolarias. —If seed has not been sown it should be done at once. 
A pan with a very fine surface should be prepared, the seed sown, 
gently watered, and stood in a shady place in a cold frame. Plants 
raised from seed sown some time ago may be pricked out singly into 
other pans 1 inch apart. Grow these on under similar conditions. 
Callas. —These do best when planted outside in well prepared 
heavily manured soil. In planting break up the plants and remove 
the suckers, which may be planted for flowering in 5 or 6-inch pots, 
or thrown away if not required for stock. Plants bearing one or 
more spathes are very suitable for grouping, and in many establish¬ 
ments are even more useful than plants of a larger size. There is no 
difiiculiy in having plants in flower in succession over a period of six 
or seven months. Those for the latest flowering require to be kept 
perfectly cool throughout the winter and spring. 
Salvias. —These may be planted out or placed in their flowering 
pots and stood outside. They give the least trouble when planted out. 
Some of the kinds deserve every attention, and large pyramidal bushes 
may be produced in one season. The best for spring flowering is 
unquestionably S. gesnerseflora. Eupatoriums may be given the same 
treatment. 
Carnation Miss Joliffe. —Plants rooted in heat may be placed in 
4-inch pots, and finally into 6-inch. These may be grown for a time in 
frames until they are well established and bushy little plants, when 
they should be t’noroughly hardened, placed in their flowering pots, and 
stood outside on a bed of ashes. The old stool plants may be turned 
out of their pots into light soil, and the grass layered. By this means a 
large stock of plants can be secured for winter and early spring flowering. 
Tree Carnations. —Plants that are well established in 2-inch pots 
may be placed into 5-inch. They should be grown with the above until 
well established, and then placed into 7-inch pots and stood outside. 
Young plants of free growth in 5-inch pots may be placed into others 
2 inches larger, and stood outside. These plants do well in a compost of 
three parts loam to one of leaf mould, one-seventh of manure and coarse 
sand. Care should be taken not to give them strong stimulants. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Northern Weather. 
Up to the 25th inst. the weather for seven weeks was cold with 
heavy rain, and during all that time there were only seven fair 
days. The temperature was never above 40° on any night. 
Snow and hail showers were frequent. There has been one day 
only on which honey could be gathered, and bees have still to 
be fed to keep them alive. 
Swarms. 
These are erratic, and often leave their hive quickly, while 
some linger several days. There are two causes for this : one is 
they have been prevented swarming through stress of weather at 
the proper time before young queens are hatched, then after they 
