6G 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 22, 1891.' 
that the trees are grown and prepared to replace any that are unsatis¬ 
factory under glass ; therefore, it is always well to have young trees 
coming on. This also keeps all wall space fully occupied. 
Formation of the Border. 
This is the first point to be considered. We provide a good drainage 
with broken bricks or sandstone, over this we place old slates ; these are 
of very great advantage when the soil has to be moved for the purpose 
of root-pruning ; they prevent the soil mixing with the drainage, and 
also prevent strong roots striking down into the subsoil. We do not 
make our borders deeper than 18 inches under the base of the tree, 
sloping outwards to 21 inches. I strongly advocate shallow borders, as the 
roots are then within the beneficial influence derived from the action 
of the sun and air. In a dull wet season it is only from trees in such 
borders that fruit of good quality can be secured. The wood, too, made 
by trees in shallow borders is solid and short-jointed, therefore more 
fruitful, not so gross, and less liable to canker or get injured by severe 
frost, than wood produced by trees in deeper made borders. 
The Soil. 
Turf cut green from the field I prefer to that which has been cut 
and stacked for some months, as by the time the roots are in action the 
decaying grass and fibre cause the roots to move more quickly than 
would be the case in soil that is older. Our soil is too light for the 
well doing of the Peach, as the latter delights in a strong retentive soil. 
Therefore we add clay or marl in the proportion of one barrowload to 
four or five of loam with a couple of bushels of charcoal, which we 
make at home by charring the branches which fall from the trees, the 
dressings of pea-stakes, &c., a liberal dusting of bone-meal and a little old 
mortar rubbish are also added. When filling the border we do not use 
the orthodox sod turned grass side down, but fill in the mixture to the 
bottom. As the soil is placed in it is made firm by treading. Some 
judgment must be exercised in this, as if the soil is too damp this can be 
overdone, on the other hand if it is dry this is not easily accomplished. 
There is no doubt the best results are obtained from a border made 
sufficiently firm that a man can step upon it without leaving the 
impression of a footprint. 
Choosing the Trees. 
The stock upon which the Peach is budded plays a very important 
part in the well-doing of the tree in after life. I prefer young trees 
with a smooth bark, and such as have the appearance of health and 
vigour, as it is well known to many what a drawback it is to have 
stocks that are bark-bound. Such stocks never swell in proportion to 
the scion. Thus, though the demand upon the roots becomes greater, 
the channels which convey the sap to the tree is not equal to the 
demand. The consequence is, root suckers are produced, the growth of 
the trees become stunted, and they do not produce such well-developed 
fruit. This can be relieved to some extent by making three or four 
^cuts in the stock from top to bottom, right through the bark into the 
wood. This is best done in autumn. Although it, to some extent, 
relieves the tree for a time, it will not bring about a lasting balance 
between the stock and the scion. 
Let us think for one moment. We have forced a foreign head upon 
this stock. We do not allow one leaf or branch to be borne by the 
stock. I think this is wrong. If we allowed a branch of the stock to 
extend on each side along the base of the wall for a few feet, and keep 
it nailed and neat, the stock would be breathing through its own lungs. 
Many know what happens in the case of young Vines. If all growths 
are kept off the stem up to the rafter the top of the rod is the thickest. 
On the other hand, if young growth is allowed to extend at the base on 
each side then the rod is equal throughout. Does not this equally apply 
in the stock of the Peach? Therefore, I advoeate the greatest care in 
choosing young trees ; to get them from a good firm where the knife 
has not been too much used, as well as to have them true to name. Trees 
that have been subjected to much pruning whilst in a young state rarely 
ever prove satisfactory. They may grow well for a time, then the 
branches commence dying off one by one, until the whole tree collapses. 
This often happens under the strain of a full crop of fruit. To avoid 
this evil I prefer to plant maiden trees to begin with. 
Planting the Trees. 
If the wall to be planted is a high one I should plant alternately 
standard and dwarf-trained trees. This may be done, if the trees 
that are to be removed are on the place, earlier than is often recom¬ 
mended—that is, as soon as the wood is ripe, just as the leaves begin to 
all, or even before. If the trees have to be obtained from a nursery 
they should be procured in November. In either case the position the 
tree is to occupy should be made in readiness, so that it may at once be 
put into position without exposing its roots to the air a moment longer 
than is really necessary. Before planting cut off all the broken roots, 
and trim the ends of all the others with a sharp knife, as a clean cut 
soon heals. If a root is planted with a jagged or broken end there is no 
telling hov/ far it will decay. After placing the tree in position lay 
the roots out straight, using some of the finer soil to cover them. Keep 
the roots near the surface, and plant the tree 6 inches from the wall to 
allow for the swelling of the stock. When the planting is complete 
secure the main branches to the wall temporarily, and allow time 
for the soil to settle before the final nailing takes place. Mulch the 
surface a little exceeding the radius of the roots with old spent 
manure ; strong manure is not necessary at this stage, although it is 
of great benefit to older trees. 
Pruning and Training. 
These are two very important points, and are closely allied, as by 
bad pruning no tree can be kept in good form, though a good crop may 
be obtained from a badly trained tree. It ought to be the aim of all 
cultivators to secure good crops from neatly and well-trained trees. We 
will begin with a maiden, that is a tree one year from the bud. Say 
we planted one last autumn ; in the spring following when the pruning 
is done, cut it down to eight or ten eyes, choosing an eye that is situated 
in the front of the shoot to cut to. When the shoots push into growth 
select five shoots to form the foundation of the tree. If an upright 
leader is chosen this growth should be stopped when it has made 
five or six jointk, or it would rob the side shoots or branches. On the 
other hand all the shoots may be trained in an oblique direction, 
which is known as fan-training, and is generally adoped. This 
equalises the strength of the growth, and always keeps the centre of 
the tree open until all wall space is occupied. At same time I prefer 
the method previously described, as by stopping the leading shoots 
whilst making growth the balance in the branches is secured in the 
early part of the season, when the weak branches are likely to receive 
an equal part of the sap. If one branch becomes strong out of 
proportion to the others it should be at once pinched in whatever 
part of the tree it may occur, as it is very difficult to restore an equal 
balance unless it is done in the early stages of growth, and thus 
prevent the use of the pruning knife. 
Laying in young growth should be attended to as early as possible, 
for it is much easier and safer to do this before the wood gets firm than 
afterwards, as the growth is not so liable to be broken by winds, as 
well as having the full benefit of sunshine for a lunger season. The 
following spring little pruning will be needed. Shorten the leader 
slightly. The other shoots, if the wood is ripe, lay them in full length. 
If not, cut them back to a point where they are ripe, taking care to 
cut back to a wood bud, and this bud should be on the upper side 
of the shoot. The growths that push from the branches will require 
thinning. Eub all from the under side and reduce those on the 
upper gradually to three on each branch, one at the base, one about 
half way along, and another at the end. A few of the intermediate 
growths may be allowed to grow, especially about the base of the 
tree, until they have formed two or three leaves. These form spurs 
and will be found handy to train a fresh shoot from if such should 
be needed. All lateral growths are to be pinched to one or two 
leaves as they appear. 
The second years training will be the same, only there will be no 
leader to shorten. The wall will be getting covered with the eight 
or nine primary branches. The tree will now be in bearing condition, 
and will have furnished a good space of the wall. The routine in 
the spring will be the same as that previously described, except the 
middle growth on the branch will not be required. The growth at the 
end, if there is not space to lay it in without crowding, may be pinched 
at the third or fourth leaf. This applies to trees that have filled their 
allotted space, but the shoot that springs from the base is to be left 
intact, as this is intended to replace its parent shoot, also to carry fruit 
the following year. When the fruit is gathered, if possible the same 
day, cut out all shoots that have borne it, and all others not required 
to furnish the tree. When laying in the young shoots sufficient space 
should be left, say 5 to 6 inches between them. The points will 
require nailing, whilst all shoots that are put into position in the body 
of the tree may be secured during the growing season, by pieces of 
split bamboo, or thin shoots cut from Privet hedges. This can be done 
more quickly than by nailing. 
(To be continued.! 
