80 
JOURXAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 89, 1891. 
and the foliage dead, when they will do well, and prove most 
effective interspersed among Ferns and a variety of other plants. 
When first potted only just enough moisture should be afforded 
to prevent the soil becoming very dry, but according as the roots 
spread more water must be given, till eventually a good soaking is 
required daily. Liquid manure of some kind may then alternate 
with clear water, but it ought not to be strong enough to injure the 
roots. Water must be gradually withheld according as the foliage 
ripens off and active growth ceases, this being a rather critical 
time, though the young spikes pushing up from shelf-grown bulbs 
rarely damp off. During the hottest part of the summer the 
Calanthes require to be carefully shaded from bright sunshine, and 
overhead syringings are beneficial. Their flowering season usually 
extends from the middle of November to the end of January, and 
this season we shall have them still later. Earliness, however, is 
greatly affected by the time of starting the plants and the heat they 
are kept in, and a good succession can be had by varying this 
treatment. 
Calanthes travel and keep well. The boxes may be lined with 
cotton wool, over this placing a sheet of tissue paper, on which the 
spikes may be packed very closely in a single layer, being then 
covered with more paper and enough cotton wool to keep all tight 
and firm when the lid is shut down. AVooden boxes are always to 
be preferred as being the warmest and safest, and during frosty 
weather the Parcels Post is the safest means of transit. Boxes are 
too much exposed to cold when sent by rail.—M. H. 
THE WINTER. 
Present and Future Difficulties. 
No one reading your excellent article under the above heading 
in the Journal of last week could fail to appreciate the timely 
remarks and suggestions so prominently brought forward, and the 
thoroughly accurate account of what is likely to happen will apply 
to many persons in charge of gardens this season. That vegetables 
during the early part of the summer will be scarce there cannot be 
a doubt, as whole breadths of Broccoli are either killed or so 
enfeebled as to be nearly useless. Varieties of Lettuces, which in 
ordinary winters have stood without protection, are likewise gone. 
Cabbages look sickly, and so does Spinach, while Parsley, which 
has had neither frames nor handlights to cover it, will be many 
long days before it affords a decent picking. The remarks on 
those who have sufficient accommodation wherewith to force 
Asparagus, Seakale, Kidney Beans, and Mushrooms are well for 
those to whom it may apply, but it is the note of warning to 
others less favourably situated that makes the article so valuable, 
while the portion relating to the insufficient frame ground is quite 
opportune. You apply for suggestions as to how these difficulties 
may be overcome, and I have pleasure in suggesting a few items 
which may serve a good end and simplify matters a little. 
Where frames do not exist in which hotbeds can be made up 
much may be done in greenhouses with pans and boxes, so as to be 
prepared for the time when all danger of frost is over by having 
on hand a supply of plants sufficient for the space at command, and 
which will be of inestimable value to tide over a critical portion 
of the year. In many establishments a sowing of Red and White 
Cabbages will already have been made, also Cauliflowers, Lettuce, 
and Parsley ; but those not having done so should lose no time, 
but make a sowing at once. Some old potting soil will be excellent 
on which to sow. Have clean pans ready drained, over these place 
a coating of leaf mould, and fill nearly level to the rim with the 
soil, and sow the seeds thinly, covering slightly with fine soil, and 
water carefully until the seeds germinate. Place them in the 
greenhouse, and when the plants are showing their first leaves 
prick off into boxes of good soil, giving the plants 3 or 4 inches 
space. Instead of covering the bottoms of the boxes with leaf mould 
we use some well-decayed manure, which the plants delight in. 
In the greenhouse they may be kept until the worst of the 
weather is over, providing as much air is admitted on all favourable 
occasions as possible. As the weather becomes warmer a wooden 
framework may be made of any rough boards and erected in a 
sheltered part of the garden in which to place the boxes. In the 
case of cold cutting winds mats or any suitable covering can be 
laid over the framework, removing on every favourable oppor¬ 
tunity so as to admit the light. In this way they may be kept 
until the time for planting outside arrives, and if planted with care 
on a south border will be found much earlier than if sown outside. 
With regard to Lettuces, we sow Tom Thumb and All the Year 
Round. The former is kept growing in the greenhouse, cut out of 
the boxes, reserving the latter for planting outside. It is also well 
to grow two or three boxes of Parsley in the greenhouse. Although 
nothing can equal that grown outside, still useful sprigs may be had 
for cooking and g.irnishing purposes. Early Erfurt is a variety of 
Cauliflower we use, and Cocoanut is an early compact Cabbage, 
but other varieties equally as good are easy to select. 
Early Peas we sow in boxes the last week in February, the 
varieties used being American Wonder and William Hurst. A 
greenhouse or Peach house will start them admirably. When 
about an inch high they may be placed with the other boxes in the 
frame until the time for planting. In planting we select a piece 
of ground which has been heavily manured, and mark out rows- 
18 inches apart for American Wonder, and 2 feet for William 
Hurst. The line being tightened, a shallow trench is taken out 
with a spade or small fork, the Peas are then taken out of the 
boxes and carefully placed in the trenches, afterwards filling up- 
with fine soil and pressing it round the roots. A good watering 
follows, and if a few twigs of Fir, or anything of the sort is placed* 
along the rows, it will be found advantageous in warding off any 
cold winds. This system has been pursued by us for many years, . 
and by adopting it we have been able to secure supplies much 
sooner than we should otherwise have done, and in giving these 
few notes I do so with the hope that they may be of benefit to 
some of your readers who may feel the scarcity of supply. 
R. P. R. 
THE CULTIVATION OF THE PEACH AND NECTARINE' 
UNDER GLASS AND ON THE OPEN WALL. 
[A Paper read by Mr, W. TaNNlNCTON’, Calderftone, Aigburth,before tbe meaibers oU 
the Liverpool Hoitieu laral Association, January lltli, 1891.2 
(^Continued from i)age 66.') 
Root-pruning. 
This is resorted to for the purpose of restoring equality between- 
root and branches. It stands to reason that when the head of a tree is- 
restricted to certain space annually, and its roots allowed to ramble at 
will in a rich border, that they will get out of proportion to the head.. 
This is followed by the production of gross wood, which does not ripen,, 
and is sure to end in unfruitfulness. The remely for this is root-pruning 
or checking the roots to prevent grossness, thus inducing a moderate 
and more fertile growth, such as in an ordinary season will ripen well,, 
and ultimately, all things being favourable, will yield a crop of fruits 
This root-pruning should be done earlier than it usually is. Generally 
it is deferred until the tree has lost its foliage. 1 prefer to do it when- 
the leaves show signs of finishing growth, say about the end of 
September. The advantages of doing it at this time are that it brings- 
the tree to rest earlier, which matures both wood and buds, and that the 
temperature of the soil is higher than at a later period. This with the 
leaves still upon the trees will induce fresh root action, and enable the 
tree to recover a little from the severe check it sustained from the- 
operation, and be more likely to yield good results the following, 
season. 
The operation is very simple. The first thing to be considered is the 
size of the tree. In the case of young trees that are growing more 
vigorous than is desirable a trench may be made 2 feet from the stem, 
and all the strongest roots shortened a little. If the weather is fine 
the time the trench can with advantage be left open for a day or two.. 
This will check growth and effect early wood ripening. If sufficient 
strong roots are not found near the surface to account for grossness the 
suspicion then arises that there are tap roots. In that case che tree 
must be worked under and all roots that are striking downwards cut and 
brought up. In the case of old trees we remove every second or third 
year within a yard of the stem of the tree one-third of the soil in 
circumference down to the drainage. This is replaced by new. Iff 
root suckers are present they are removed and the roots relaid firmly in 
the new soil close to the surface. By this treatment the trees are not 
much checked, and the roots working in the new soil considerably adds 
to their vigour. 
Mulching. 
In shallow borders this is a necessity during the summer months. 
It keeps the surface of the border cool, and encourages the roots to the 
surface. This is where we want them if we are to expect the tree to be 
fruitful, and at the same time produce fruit of the best quality. For 
old trees that are carrying a crop we use good cow dung. In the case 
of young trees or trees ^hat show signs of too luxuriant growth old 
spent manure, such as old^hotbed dung, is more suitable. Tois prevents- 
tbe border being parched during hot weather, and at the same time- 
does not afford too much rich food at the times of heavy rain. During 
