94 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 29, 1891 
names of noted fictitious persons and places,” occupies thirty pages, 
and is a novel feature in a dictionary. An exhaustive pronouncing 
gazatteer follows, and a biographical dictionary including 10,000 
names. Vocabularies of Scripture, Greek, Latin and English names are 
added. There is a capital list of quotation words, phrases, proverbs, 
and colloquial expressions, with lists of abbreviations, arbitrary 
signs, &c. Besides the illustrations scattered through the text the work 
eoncludes with classified lists of pictorial illustrations, occupying eighty 
pages, and though the engravings are small they are very clear and well 
adapted for their purpose. 
The work is printed in excellent type, on good paper, and is in all 
respects admirably executed both in the editorial and publishing 
departments. 
THE FROST RECORD, 1890-1891. 
We are indebted for the following official and authoritative record of 
the frost during the present winter to G. M. Whipple, Esq., B.Sc., the 
■courteous and experienced Superintendent of the Kew Observatory. 
Much useful work is performed at this establishment, concerning which 
we hope to publish some particulars at an early date ; in the meantime 
it will be interesting to have a reliable register of so prolonged a frost. 
The Kew Observatory, it may be added, is not connected with the Royal 
■Gardens, but is under the management of a Committee appointed by 
the Royal Society, and is one of the first-class stations of the Meteoro¬ 
logical Office. 
Table Showing the Daily Minima at Kew Observatory 
During the Late Frost, November, 1890— January, 1891. 
Extracted from the records by permission of the Meteorological Council- 
Min. Temperature, j Date i Temperature. 
1890-1. 
* 
On 
ground.t ! 
1890-1. 
In 
air.* 
On 
ground.t 
deg. 
deg. 
deg. 
deg. 
November 25 
31 
20 j 
December 25 
21 
15 
26 
26 
25 1 
11 
26 
25 
13 
27 
23 
20 : 
1 <) 
27 
30 
20 
28 
21 
19 1 
28 
26 
12 
J) 
29 
22 
16 i 
11 
29 
26 
28 
30 
21 
15 ' 
11 
30 
21 
24 
December 
1 
25 
18 ' 
31 
21 
19 
2 
30 
19 ; 
January 
1 
28 
28 
3 
34 
31 I 
i 11 
2 
24 
20 
JJ 
4 
36 
34 
! 
3 
27 
23 
S) 
5 
35 
34 
11 
4 
32 
25 
J) 
6 
36 
36 
5 
27 
23 
7 
34 
27 
! „ 
6 
24 
20 
8 
31 
28 
1 
7 
24 
20 
9 
29 
2(t 
8 
23 
9 
10 
29 
23 
9 
21 
17 
11 
24 
25 
10 
15 
9 
* 1 ) 
12 
23 
19 
11 
13 
9 
11 
13 
16 
14 
12 
19 
15 
11 
14 
17 
9 
13 
34 
27 
n 
15 
21 
11 
14 
33 
26 
-11 
16 
24 
18 
15 
30 
26 
31 
17 
24 
26 
1 
16 
25 
29 
11 
18 
25 
19 
17 
23 
16 
11 
19 
25 
26 
18 
20 
11 
11 
20 
15 
i 11 
19 
20 
11 
11 
21 
27 
: 26 
20 
28 
22 
11 
22 
11 
11 
21 
30 
23 
11 
2:5 
18t 
22 
29 
21 
11 
24 
24 
28 
1 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Early Forced Vines in Pots. —Thin the bunches somewhat 
freely, so as to induce larger berries, not, however, going to the extreme 
■of making the bunches loose, though that is better than small-berried 
bunches. Maintain the temperature at G5° at night, falling to G0° on 
cold mornings ; but raise the heat in good time to 65° or 70° by day 
and 70° to 75° when mild, admitting air at 75°, increasing the tempe¬ 
rature with sun heat to 80° or 85°, closing the house at 80°, with a 
prospect of an advance to 85° or 90°, at the same time damping the 
house. Damping is also necessary in the early part of the day. Afford 
•copious supplies of tepid liquid manure. Observe great care in ventilating. 
Earliest Forced Houses. —Remove all loose and duplicate bunches. 
» Minimum for twenty-four hours ending at midnight (thermometer 12 feet above 
ground). t Minimum for twenty-four hours ending at 10 A.M. { Occurred at 8 P.M, 
Note.—O n December 14th the mean temperature for the whole day was 20^. On 
December 22nd the mean temperature for the whole day was 17“ 
thinning the berries as soon as they become well formed, but do not 
defer this longer when the properly fertilised berries are distinguish¬ 
able by their taking the lead in swelling. Where no fermenting 
materials are used in the house fill the evaporation troughs with guano 
water (1 lb. to twenty gallons of water), and the borders and other 
available surfaces may be sprinkled at the time of closing—early in the 
afternoon. Where results are of more consequence than appearance 
a portion of the fermenting materials may be removed, and the whole 
surface inside covered lightly with thoroughly sweetened manure from 
the stables, which should be turned several times before it is introduced, 
or the ammonia vapour will be too strong for the tender foliage, which 
may, however, be obviated by admitting a little air at the top lights to 
allow any excess of vapour to pass off, as it will in a day or two. The 
inside border before being covered with the sweetened stable litter must 
have a good supply of tepid water, not exceeding 90°, or liquid manure. 
This, with the leaves in an active state, will incite root action, and the 
berries will swell freely. Avoid cold currents of air, also steam arising 
from highly heated hot-water pipes, both causing rust. The heat of 
fermenting material on outside borders must not be allowed to decline. 
Where no fermenting materials are used take care to prevent the roots 
in outside borders becoming chilled by cold rains or snow, having 
wooden shutters or tarpaulin so disposed as to throw off the rain or 
melted snow. Attention will be required in tying the shoots and in 
stopping the laterals. It is assumed that the shoots have been stopped 
two or more joints beyond the fruit. Where the space is restricted they 
may have been pinched to one or two joints, and in any case the 
axillary growths may be stopped at the first leaf, and to one afterwards 
as fresh growth is made. If this is likely to interfere with the principal 
leaves the axillary growths may be rubbed off except from the two 
lowest joints, those above the fruit being stopped to one leaf. It is of 
the utmost importance that the principal foliage be fully exposed to 
light and air, overcrowding and overcropping being in the highest 
degree prejudicial ; at the same time very close stopping is not to be 
recommended where there is room for extension, as an increase of 
foliage promotes corresponding root action, therefore preserve all the 
foliage consistent with its full exposure to light. 
Houses in which Vines are in bloom should have a steady night 
temperature of 65°, 70° to 75° by day by artificial means, and 5° to 10° 
more from sun heat. Muscats must be kept 5°higher all round. Black 
Muscat and other varieties liable to set indifferently may be assisted by 
tapping daily, or more certainly by brushing the bunches lightly with a 
camel’s hair brush, then apply ripe pollen from free-setting varieties, 
drawing a brush filled with pollen lightly over the bunches. A con¬ 
stant circulation of warm rather dry air is conducive to a good set, and 
it is advisable not to stop the growth closely during the setting period, 
but avoid allowing growth to be made which must afterwards be 
reduced in quantity. That gives a check highly prejudicial to the 
health of the Vines, and does not favour the swelling of their crops. 
Vines Started at the Neio Year. —Continue syringing the rods twice 
a day, but do not keep them constantly dripping, and so induce aerial 
roots on the rods, for these have a weakening tendency. Continue 
syringing until the bunches are formed, when it must be discontinued, but 
maintain the atmospheric moisture by damping the paths and borders three 
times a day. Increase the temperature to 55° at night, and 60° to 65° 
by day, with an advance from sun heat to 75°, with ventilation in 
accordance with the state of the external air. Avoid damping the hot- 
water pipes when they are highly heated ; the steam is highly inimical 
to tender foliage, and the moisture very different from that given off by 
cooler surfaces. Keep up a supply of ammonia by turning over fer¬ 
menting material, frequently adding a few fresh horse droppings, or if 
these are objected to the house may be sprinkled with liquid from 
stables diluted with six times its bulk of water. A 3-gallon water- 
potful of diluted liquid is sufficient to sprinkle a square rod (30^ square 
yards) of flooring or border surface, and is best applied in the afternoon 
or evening following the usual damping with water. The evaporation 
troughs may be filled with the same, but it is important not to make a 
mistake in applying the liquid too strong. 
Do not be in a hurry to disbud, letting the growths advance until 
the bunches appear in the points of the shoots, then the weakest and 
otherwise least desirable can be removed; but it should be done 
gradually so as not to cause appreciable check. 
Hoitses to Afford Pii)e Grapes in July, —Eajly February is the 
latest time for starting Vines to finish fruit satisfactory soon after mid¬ 
summer. Nothing is well done in a hurry. Vines are no exception. 
They require time and suitable condition for the performance of good 
work. Outside borders need not be covered with fermenting material, 
but a covering of leaves and a little litter over them to prevent their 
blowing about will afford all the protection required at this season of 
the year ; all that is necessary is to prevent chill. Close the house at 
once, merely use artificial heat to exclude frost at night, and maintain a 
temperature of 50° in the daytime. This to some extent will cause the 
sap to rise, and a light damping occasionally assists in softening the 
epidermal layers, the tissues below being more readily acted on by 
moisture and warmth. A bed of fermenting materials inside the house 
conduces to a good break by securing a uniform moisture, but they need 
not be introduced until the Vines are started. Then supply the inside 
border with tepid water, or preferably with liquid manure at a tem¬ 
perature of 90°, repeating as necessary so as to thoroughly moisten the 
whole border through to the drainage. Syringe the Vines three times a 
day, using water not less in temperature than the house. Maintain the 
temperature at 50° at night, 55° by day artificially, and 65° from sun heat. 
