lOG 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 5,1891. 
being great favourites, and all proving by their condition how well 
Mr. J. Jennings, the experienced gardener in charge, understands their 
requirements. A Peach case, planted with Koses in front and Peaches 
on the back wall, is also a useful house, two favourite Roses being 
Gloire de Dijon and Cheshunt Hybrid, which yield their flowers in 
profusion. Much more could be noted, as for instance the well- 
constructed bothy, an admirable example of what such structures 
should be ; but these outlines of a well designed and ably managed 
garden will suffice to convey an idea of its style and scope.—L. C. 
THE CULTIVATION OF THE PEACH AND NECTARINE 
UNDER GLASS AND ON THE OPEN WALL. 
1.A Paper read by Mr. W. Tunnixoto-v, Calderstone, Aigburth,before tbe members of 
tbe Liverpool Uoifcultural Association,January 10th, 1891.1 
{^Continued from lyage 81 f) 
Glass, 
My remarks on the Peach under glass must be brief, therefore I 
propose only to touch upon a few items of culture. We will begin 
with the tree after the crop is gathered. As soon as possible all wood 
that has carried fruit, and all lanky and naked shoots, unless they be 
leading ones, should be cut out, so that little or no pruning will be 
required in the winter. After this all the leaves are put under the 
trellis, so that the wood which remains will have the full benefit of the 
light. We then give the border a thorough soaking with diluted liquid 
from the farmyard. The trees are syringed regularly morning and 
evening. It is often the case that the trees are left to take care of them¬ 
selves after the fruit is gathered. All the air possible is admitted, but 
we never remove the sashes from the roof. In the autumn we give the 
trees and the whole of the house a dash over with petroleum, the 
same strength as I have previously named. No further winter dressing 
will be required. The trees will then be tied to the trellis, taking care 
to leave room in the tie for swelling. The border is then looked to. All 
the old soil for 2 or 3 inches is removed down to the roots. The 
borders are then top-dressed with new soil and a sprinkling of bonemeal 
and a little wood ashes. Every two or three years a dressing of fresh 
lime is added. Over this we place a mulching of cow manure, and 
conceal it with a little soil. This is all the mulching we give during 
the year. Previous to closing the house for starting we give the border 
a good watering with tepid water. 
When fire heat is applied it must be done with considerable caution, 
as, however good the condition of root and branch, down come the buds 
if too much is applied. The same thing will happen if the trees have 
been neglected with water during the autumn and winter months ; 45° 
to 50° is safe to start with at night, and 55° during the day, with a moist 
atmosphere. Ventilate freely at the latter temperature, but avoid 
cutting winds. This may be increased 5° as the trees come into bloom. 
Another thing to avoid ; never bring manures that contain ammonia 
into the house while the trees are in flower. 
A slightly drier atmosphere should be maintained during this period. 
If too high a temperature is kept at this time the wood buds are liable 
to take the lead of the young fruit, and in that case may often refuse to 
swell. When the fruit is swelling freely the borders, also the trees on 
fine days, should be syringed morning and afternoon. This syringing 
may be done with more force as the foliage gains strength. 
Thinning the Buds. 
This we do when tbe trees are overladen with bloom, especially if 
they are rather weak. I think it as great a strain upon the trees as 
finishing a crop of fruit is later on in the season, as the roots are not in 
action at this early stage of growth. 
I may here state that for all Peaches under glass we resort to 
artificial fertilising. I do not for a moment say that good crops cannot 
be obtained without this ; but however much pressed with other work 
we find time to go over the flowers every day, which occupies two men 
for an hour or so the first thing after dinner. One operates on the 
Peaches and the other on the Nectarines. The brushes are changed 
every few minutes. By so doing the pollen is carried from one to the 
other. This may to some appear faddy, but it has always answered our 
purpose, as we have never yet failed to produce a crop. 
Disbudding. 
We commence this as soon as the wood buds show signs of growth. 
1 consider this strengthens the flower, and further disbudding will require 
to be done with some judgment, as it is not well to remove too much 
growth at once. This can be done in three times, allowing a reasonable 
interval between them. The top of the tree and any strong branches 
should be done first, leaving the bottom or weaker branches to gain 
strength. 
Thinning the Fruit. 
The first thinning should be given when the fruits attain the size of 
a pea. On this occasion removing all those on the under side of the 
branch, and reducing all triplets and twins to one, leaving the remainder 
about 3 or 4 inches apart. A second thinning will be required in about 
a month, leaving those that are best placed and show signs of swelling 
freely this time about 6 to 8 inches apart. A third thinning, which 
in the case of a courageous man will be the final one, should be given 
when the fruit has reached what is known as “ the stoning stage.” 
Some people leave a large number at this period to allow for dropping 
as they say. By adopting this means of securing a crop they are 
courting failure. If they leave more than the tree is capable of carry¬ 
ing over this trying time it will adopt its natural way of relieving 
itself of too great a burden, perhaps cost more than the cultivator 
bargained for, and not retain even an average crop. At this final 
thinning the fruit should be left 10 to 12 inches apart. Remove all 
pointed and ill-placed fruits, but leave those that have a tinge of rcse on 
them, as this indicates health, if possible such as are placed at the base 
of a young growth. As the season goes on and the fruit is swelling 
freely (we water the borders freely with diluted liquid), a night tem¬ 
perature of 55° to 60° is quite high enough, with a day temperature of 
70° to 75° for an hour or two in the evening with a moist atmosphere. 
Overcrowding the shoots when laying them in is a common occurrence. 
This is a great mistake, as it enfeebles the tree, and at the same time 
prevents the wood from ripening, and thus blights the prospects of a 
crop the following year. 
The Stoning of the Fruit. 
For about six weeks there will be no perceptible growth in the fruit, 
although the work has been steadily going on. In my opinion it is not 
well to have the border too wet at this time, as the fruit is liable to 
take up too much moisture, turn brown at the kernel, and fall. A low 
night and day temperature should be adopted during this period, as 
there is nothing gained by hard forcing. The tree should be kept clean 
by a free use of the syringe. The cultivator will readily perceive when 
this sleep or rest ends, for growth in the fruit starts with a bound, so to 
speak. Now is the time to give the border a good watering with tepid 
liquid, or whatever fertiliser he may prefer. All fruit are raised up on 
old labels or split bamboo to the full sun, and leaves are placed on the 
under side of the trellis. If a leaf shades the fruit pitch half of it away 
and leave the other half. Increase both night and day temperatures, 
the former to 70°, and the latter to 80°, which may run as high as 85° for 
a few hours in the evening. This is the only time the Peach will stand 
sharp forcing. 
In the last swelling of the fruits it is the custom of some cultivators 
to treat them to a steaming moist atmosphere of 90° to 100° in the 
evening. I do not approve of extremes. If a dull day or two follow 
this treatment, a low night temperature, and then the sun breaks out 
early in the morning before the moisture is off the fruit, they are liable 
to get damaged at the point. The skin is dull in colour, and does not 
look so well as fruit ripened under more natural and steady conditions. 
As the fruit approaches ripeness it should have free ventilation, as this 
will improve both colour and flavour. When it is ripe it should be 
examined each day. It should never be left to fall with over-ripeness. 
1 think fruit is in the best possible condition for table when it takes 
gentle pressure to remove it from the tree. On the other hand, if it has 
to travel by rail or sent to market it should be gathered earlier, or 
damage in transit and loss will occur. 
Packing the Fruit. 
When this has to be sent a distance, boxes or trays for the purpose 
should be made, about 5 inches in depth, and made to hold one or two 
dozen each. In pScking lay a thin layer of paper shavings at the 
bottom. On this lay cotton wadding ; wrap the fruit in thin tissue 
paper ; then cut sheets of wadding about the depth of the fruit in 
2 feet lengths. Wrap this round the fruit its full length, using a gentle 
pressure in placing them in the box. Put another sheet of wadding on 
the top, and if this is not firm soft hay or paper shavings should be used 
to make it so. If it is desired to keep the fruit for a time, it can be 
done by placing them on a soft surface in a cool cellar. They will keep 
in good condition for ten days or a fortnight. 
If I were planting a house of Peaches for early work where half a 
dozen trees could be accommodated I should select the following ;— 
Early Beatrice, Alexander, Hale’s Early, Royal George, Bellegarde, and 
