120 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Fe’.rT»ary 12 18:’. 
it outside, for tlie birn’s full.” Ha had taken it in by the cart¬ 
load. At last the fmst departed, and he was told to dig a trench, 
lay the roots of the trees in it, work some free soil well amon gst 
them, cover them G inches deep, and let them remain there till 
the ground was dry enough for harrowing and rolling before 
planting, even if they remained for a month. They remained laid 
in more than a month, for they were not planted till March, and 
then mulched. Every tree grew well, but some of those forced 
in in November died, and the others had a struggle for existence. 
The spring planted trees took a distinct lead and kept it, and have 
given complete satisfaction. 
Success in spring planting depends chiefly on four things 
(1) constant root moisture, (2) friable soil, (3) mulching, (4) rather 
close pruning. Most nurserymen who have reputations to lose 
take special care to surround the roots thickly with wet packing in 
spring, and it is very necessary they should, and also to do all they 
can to prevent the roots drying before packing. If the roots of 
young fruit trees are kept distinctly moist every moment they are 
out of the ground they grow well when carefully planted, even 
when the buds are bursting through the scaly covering, and better 
than when the roots are placed in something like a quagmire in mid¬ 
winter. The moving sap incites fresh root action at once, just as 
in the case of leafless Fuchsias which gardeners shake out and 
repot after starting. They do not do this when the plants are 
dormant in midwinter, but let them “ break ” first, because they 
then grow better. Obviously fruit trees cannot be safely packed 
in that state, and should, as above stated, be had sooner ready for 
planting when they can be planted well. During fine weather in 
March the pulverised soil on the surface of the ground is much 
warmer than that below, and some of the former placed in 
contact with the roots is helpful. Warmth is the motive 
power of growth, and every degree tells in spring. Mulching 
is good for trees whenever they are planted, and particularly in 
spring for preventing the soil shrinking and fissures forming in it. 
The weather, however, will suggest whether it should be done at 
once or in a few week?. We want earth warmth, but no fissures 
Avoid these, and April or May, according to circumstances, is a 
good time for mulching for the retention of moisture. Shortening 
the branches I deem essential for three reasons :—(1) Because the 
roots have been shortened and cannot support growths from a 
hundred or more buds the whole length of the long shoots, but they 
soon become powerful enough to sustain good growths from three 
or four at the base of each. (2) Because the greater the area of bark 
exposure the greater the evaporation when the roots are inadequate 
to maintain the supply for that purpose, with a surplus for pro¬ 
moting growth. (3) Because I have found the plan answer, and 
practice proves those theories sound. If I say I prefer shortening 
the branches of recently planted trees after the sap commences 
moving I shall perhaps bring a few hornets about my ears ; but I 
do, so they can pepper away.—J. Wright. 
* SCARCITY OF VEGETABLES—FORCING 
CAULIFLOWERS. 
Foe several years past we have sighed in vain for a “ good old- 
fashioned winter,” but now we have had our wishes gratified in this 
respect it will be many years before we want a similar experi¬ 
ence. As far as trees, shrubs, and hardy flowers and bulbs are 
concerned it is yet too early to determine what our losses are, but 
there is no doubt at all about what has happened in the vegetable 
garden. With us Broccoli is completely destroyed, while Borecole, 
Savoys, Cabbage, and Brussels Sprouts are all badly crippled, and 
in many instances are rotting fast. Anything in the shape of 
Lettuce, Endive, Parsley, and Cauliflower plants not heavily pro¬ 
tected are also destroyed, and we shall have to make a fresh start 
with several other things. This being a general complaint, hints, 
in addition to those already given on page 59, upon how best to 
meet the difficulty may be acceptable to some readers. 
In some instances the latest Broccoli has escaped, and in all such 
cases there will be little or no need to take any extra steps to 
forward Cauliflowers, but as a rule the latter will be wanted earlier 
and in greater quantities than usual. Luckily we have excellent 
forcing varieties of the Extra Early Erfurt, such as Veitch’s Extra 
Early Forcing, Carter’s Defiance, Sutton’s First Crop, and Dean’s 
Snowball. Having tried them all, I should be sorry to give priority 
to either of them. We have a pan of seedlings at this date 
(January 2Gth) on a w’arm greenhouse shelf, and which will soon 
be ready to prick off, but if seed is sown at once thinly in a pan or 
box, placed in heat, and the seedlings before they become drawn 
be transferred to a warm greenhouse shelf, they would quickly 
become sufficiently strong enough to pot off, and from these good 
hearts could be cut late in May. We prefer to place the seedlings 
singly in 3-inch, or rather larger pots, to pricking them out into 
boxes or pans, as they transplant badly from the latter. At the 
same time they must not be kept long in small pots, as, should they 
become badly root-bound, “ buttoning ” or premature hearting 
would most probably result. Swinging shelves in greenhouses-' 
where a little heat is kept in the hot-water pipes are the best 
places for preparing the plants, and if given fairly rich soil, and- 
are kept properly supplied with water, they soon become strong, 
enough either for shifting into 10-inch pots or planting in pits or 
frames of some kind. Pot plants set in a light position, and given 
the benefit of a little heat, and after they are well established' 
abundance of liquid manure, will form excellent hearts. To suc¬ 
ceed these more may be grown in a slightly heated pit, and failing, 
this in deep frames or rough pits. 
As a rule vegetables grown in pits and frames have far too little 
rich soil to root into, partial failures being the result. This 
difficulcy can, however, be easily obviated by forming a very mild^ 
hotbed composed, say, of a mixture of old with nearly fresh stable- 
manure and leaves. This being made rather firm will generate a 
gentle heat and yet not become too dry for the Cauliflowers to root 
into. Sufficient heating material should be placed in a pit to bring 
the G inches or rather more good loamy soil up to within 9 inches- 
of the glass. These beds ought to be got ready while the plants, 
are being prepared, so as to the soil well warmed through in 
readiness for the planting. If prepared well in advance of the 
plants a crop of either Radishes or Lettuces might also be takerr 
from them. The new short topped Turnip-rooted forcing varieties 
of Radish are the quickest to bulb and form but little top. French- 
Breakfast is also very quick and of excellent quality, while the old 
favourite, Wood’s Frame, is still one of the most profitable forcing. 
Radishes. Sow the seed broadcast and thinly on moist soil, cover¬ 
ing lightly, and plant the Cauliflowers among the Radishes 
15 inches apart each way. Most of the Radishes will be drawn 
long before the Cauliflowers require all the space. 
If the preference is given to the Early Paris Market Cabbage 
Lettuce, Sutton’s Dwarf Brown Forcing being the next best, and' 
the plants given a slight start in advance of the Cauliflowers, which 
they will really have if the seeds are sown at the same time, these 
would heart in before the latter unduly shaded them. Prick the 
Lettuces out when quite small 4 inches apart in rows 15 inches 
asunder, and more also might be put out between the intended 
sites of the Cauliflowers. Every other Lettuce to be cut wheu 
they commence to press against each other as required, and these 
mixed with blanched Chicory will make a good salad, while the 
remainder will form close and remarkably tender hearts. 
The'Cauliflowers when placed out at the distances apart already 
given should be firmly fixed in the soil and never suffer by want 
of water afterwards, liquid manure being given directly the hearts 
commence forming. Hard forcing must not be resorted to, but if. 
ventilated freely on warm days, and given much less air in colder 
weather, the light being closed early and covered with mats when¬ 
ever the nights are cold, progress will be satisfactory enough. A 
good succession can be had with the aid of frames glazed or only- 
covered with mats, beds being formed for these much as advised 
for the earliest batches. Supposing the stock of autumn-raised 
plants is lost or too few in extent, more seed of the forcing variety, 
and either Dwarf Erfurt, Mammoth, Early London, Mont Blanc, 
or Magnum Bonum should be sown by the middle of Februarjq 
and the plants thus obtained be prepared for planting either under 
handlights at the foot of sunny walls, or on warm borders where 
light protection in the shape of benders and mats can be afforded 
for a time. Exhibitors who have lost their stock of Veitch’s 
Autumn Giant, and upon which they rightly depend for extra fine- 
hearts in August, ought to sow a pinch of seed in gentle heat at 
once, a trial being given to Carter’s Extra Early selection of the 
Autumn Giant. We grew this for the first time last season, and 
were able to cut good hearts from spring raised plants early in 
August, and about nine days in advance of the old form. Dickson’s 
Eclipse is also earlier than Autumn Giant, but in other respects 
not quite equal to it. Strong plants turned out of 4-inch pots 
in April or early in May, and planted on rich well-prepared open 
ground lightly sheltered and otherwise well attended to, will well 
repay for the trouble taken with them.—W. Iggulden. 
