134 
JOURXAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 1?, 1891. 
grow with the greatest luxuriance out of doors. In England p’ants 
have often grown through the crevices of houses and extended on the 
walls, enduring ordinary winters without injury. At the Eoyal Botanic 
Society’s Gardens, Regent’s Park, an instance of this kind may be 
seen, and even the past severe winter does not seem to have killed 
the plant. 
FLORAL DECORATIONS IX BIRMINGHAM. 
The Mayor of Birmingham gave a fancy dress ball on the 5th inst. 
in the Council House, and the floral decorations were entrusted to 
Messrs. Wills & Seagar of Onslow Crescent, London, and a lavishness 
in execution with refinement of taste was apparent throughout. From 
the entrance hall of the Council House, up the grand staircase and in 
the corridors were superb Palms and flowering plants, and the large 
reception and other rooms were most tastefully decorated. Some idea 
may be formed of the magnitude of the decorations from the fact that 
eighteen railway trucks were required for the transit of the plants 
from London, in addition to a quantity obtained from the Solihull 
Nurseries, Messrs. Hewict& Co. and their manager, Mr. Spinks, lending 
valuable help. Many large specimen Kentias and other handsome 
Palms were abundant, many of them from 8 to 12 feet high, and Messrs. 
Wills & Seagar had obtained from Cannes a large supply of cut Bamboo 
in full foliage, many stems of which were from 15 to 20 feet in height. 
These proved of the greatest value for decorative work, their light foliage 
and graceful form aiding so much to artistic decoration. Cut branches 
and leaves of other Palms, including the Sago Palm, and large fronds of 
Tree and other Ferns were also obtained from Cannes, and were most 
effectively used. Along corridor leading from the Council House to the 
Art Gallery was artistically dealt with, and this was called the “Haarlem 
•Garden,” as some thousands of Tulips and Hyacinths were used there. 
Throughout the building were provided a large number of zinc trays 
painted green, measured for and made to fill in windows, niches, and 
other places where a group was wanted, and when it was advisable to 
prevent injury from water. It was a wise arrangement, and enabled 
the decorators to work in a quantity of cut Orchids, Lily of the Valley, 
and other flowers, as well as Orchid plants, rising from sloping beds of 
Ferns and Lycopods. One of the ante-rooms was fitted as a hanging 
garden, and from the centre of the ceiling to the sides were tasteful 
festoons, with large half-globes of double scarlet Pelargonium blooms 
suspended from the wreaths. Handsome groups of plants were also 
placed in suitable positions. In one room was a large hanging bell, 
■composed of 200 dozen bunches of double scarlet Pelargonium flowers, 
with a base of Richardias, and in various devices, at least a thousand 
dozen bunches of double scarlet Pelargonium flowers were used. 
WOKK.foiitheWEEK., 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Eyes and Cut-lacks. —Eyes may now be inserted, using pots, 
'pans, or square pieces of turf. Select firm well ripened wood, filling 
the pot or pan with rich friable loam, inserting the buds with a pinch 
of silver sand half an inch beneath the surface, plunging the pots in a 
bottom heat of 80°. Cut-backs should be placed in a house where they 
•will have a temperature of 60° to 65° at night, and 70° to 75° by day. 
"When they have started into growth shake them out and return them 
to the same size pot, using good friable loam, providing a moist and 
rather close atmosphere until they are re-established, when they should 
have a position near the glass, so as to insure sturdy, short-jointed, 
thoroughly solidified growth. 
Early House.—Tae Vines in flower must have a temperature of 
f)0° to 65° at night, and 70° to 75° by day artificially ; but Muscats 
need 5° more both day and night. Keep the atmosphere somewhat 
drier by free_ ventilation, leaving a little air on at night ; yet a 
genial condition of the atmosphere must be insured by keeping the 
floors sprinkled three times a day during bright 'weather. Any” shy¬ 
setting Grapes may have the pollen distributed by a camel’s-hair brush. 
Stop the laterals at the first leaf, and keep those stopped to one joint 
throughout the season, but those beyond the bunch may be allowed to 
make two or more joints, provided there is space for the full exposure 
of the foliage to light and air. Avoid overcrowding the foliage, it is 
better to reduce the laterals than do that, yet the fruit retained must be 
proportionate to the amount of foliage. Heavily cropped Vines make 
correspondingly little growth, and the Grapes frequently do not colour, 
because there is not sufficient chlorophyll stored for conversion at the 
time of ripening into the essential purple or amber colour. Reduce the 
the crop when necessary, so as to have more growth in the laterals, 
and so keep the roots active, thereby maintaining a good supply of 
nutriment. 
Vines Started at the Xtw Year. —These Vines are in leaf and 
showing fruit, but do not be in a great hurry in disbudding, and let it 
be done gradually, removing the weak and least promising growths 
in the first instance, then give further attention when it. is seen which 
shoots are likely to afford the best bunches. One bunch on a spur is as 
much as is likely to finish satisfactorily, but if there be space, the spurs 
being widely distant along the rod, two shoots may be lefr, it being 
clearly understood that only one is to be allowed to carry fruit, the 
duplicate only remaining until choice can be made of the best, and in 
case of two shoots being left one ought to be near the main rod, to keep 
the spur as short as possible. Weakly Vines, however, may be allowed 
more space, so as to secure stouter wood, larger and plumper eyes, and 
better bunches in future. Give the needful attention to outside 
borders in protecting them sufficiently to prevent chill by heavy rain or 
snow. 
Vines to Afford, Grapes in July and Aug^lst. —The Vines must now 
be started. They break most evenly and strongly when assured a moist 
genial atmosphere, therefore damp the rods three times a day, and 
sprinkle other surfaces. Avoid, how'ever, keeping the rods constantly 
dripping with water, for the tendency in that case is to cause the 
emission of aerial roots, which are unsightly, if, indeed, they are not 
prejudicial in appropriating the stored up food which otherwise would 
be expended on the formation of roots in the border or go towards 
invigorating the growth. A temperature of 50° at night, 55° by day, 
and 65° from sun heat is suitable until the buds begin to move. Bring 
the inside border into a thoroughly moist condition by repeated water¬ 
ing with tepid water, and if the Vines are weak afford a supply of liquid 
manure, not before moistening the border, but after it is watered suffi¬ 
ciently for healthy growth. The soil having a strong affinity for the 
manorial elements will grasp and retain them for taking in by the roots 
as required. Afford outside borders sufficient protection to prevent 
chill, a little stable litter or other partially decayed material being all 
that is required. Eschew thick coverings of manure, particularly when 
likely to settle into a c'ose soapy mass, giving preference to lumpy, 
which will admit of the free access of air. 
Late Houses. —Assuming that the Vines 'W'ere cleared of the Grapes 
early in January, and that the inside borders have been top-dressed 
witli fresh loam and steamed bone-meal, which though less nitrogenous, 
is sooner indeed available within the current year as plant food, a good 
supply of tepid water should be given, and a start made without much 
farther delay, as it is essential to the Grapes keeping well that they be 
ripened thoroughly by the middle of September. Keep the strong rods 
in a horizontal position, and insure an even break by syringing three 
times a day. Let the temperature be kept at 50° to 55° at night and 
on dull days, until the buds move, then allow 5° to 10° more by day, and 
an advance of 5° or more from sun heat, but lose no opportunity of 
ventilating freely. 
Ripe Grapes. —Avoid fire heat as much as possible in the Grape 
room, admitting air to prevent an accumulation of moisture, replenish¬ 
ing the latter with clear soft water as required. An equable temperature 
of 45° is most suitable. 
Neio Borders. —The compost for new or renovating old Vine borders 
should now be prepared, and the best for the purpose is the top 3 or 
4 inches of a pasture, rich and friable, and in nature neither very light 
nor very heavy. It, however, is better rather strong than light. As that 
is not always obtainable light soil may have an addition of clay marl, 
heavy loam, and oli mortar rubbish, about a sixth in each case. Loam 
is best obtained where it thinly overlies limestone and is of medium 
texture. To good friable loam add a tenth of old mortar rubbish broken 
small, removing every particle of wood, such as laths, &c. To all add some 
charcoal in lumps, from a hazel nut to a hen’s egg, about half as much as 
the mortar rubbish, and a similar proportion of calcined oyster shells. 
Crushed bones may be added, but they are slow in action. Bones are not 
so much used as formerly in their enduring state, but are reserved for 
dressings to the surface, applying only in time to benefit the current crop. 
Chalk is also a good application to light soil, but quicklime to the extent 
of a tenth is preferable for heavy soils. If the soil be poor a fifth part of 
short fresh stable manure or horse droppings may be added, otherwise 
manure in most cases is best applied as a mulch. 
■ In preparing the border, which may be proceeded with as the 
weather permits, bear in mind that no fruit tree requires more copious 
supplies of water when in growth than the Vine, and at the same time 
is more impatient of stagnant water; hence drainage should receive 
first attention, and instead of excavating, concreting, and cementing, 
keep the border well elevated as far as circumstances admit. Employ 
3-inch drains with proper fall and outlet. Provide a foot of drainage, 
the roughest at the bottom and the smallest at the top, which last 
preferably to a depth of 3 inches may be old mortar rubbish. If the 
border is intended for early or late Vines, allow a rather sharp slope to 
the south or front for the purpose of throwing off the rain by means of 
tarpaulin and shutters. The proper time for planting Vines is from 
April to June inclusive, and those that are to be planted at that season 
should now be cut back to the length required, and be placed in a cool 
Peach house or pit to start into growth, and when the new shoots are 
1 to 2 inches long shake out the plants, and plant them in the per¬ 
manent borders. A width of 6 feet will be sufficient in the first instance. 
Where the Vine roots are to have the run of both outside and insidfe 
borders, confine them to the inside, not making the outside border until 
the Vines are thoroughly established. 
Fias.— Earliest Trees in Pots. —The trees started in November for 
affording ripe Figs early in May will be throwing out fresh roots plenti¬ 
fully, the bottom heat being kept steady at about 70° to 75°. Bring up 
the fermenting materials to the rim of the pots, and instead of allowing 
the roots to come over the top of the pots to ramble unchecked into the 
fermenting materials, place pieces of rich turf of good size round the 
