February 12, itS]. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
135 
rims to keep the roots close and to induce sturdier growth. Provide 
plenty, of moisture in the atmosphere by syringing twice a day, and 
damping as may he required in bright weather. Admit a little air at 
70°, increasing it with the temperature ; close at 75°, and if the tempera¬ 
ture rises to 80° or 85° from sun heat it will be an advantage. See that 
there is no lack of water at the roots. The drainage being good there 
is little danger of giving Figs too much water, many crops being lost by 
keeping the trees too dry. The temperature in dull weather must range 
from G0° to G5°, 55° to 60° at night, when the external air is cold, but 5° 
higher when the weather is mild. Disbudding will need to be attended 
to as growth advances, and gross shoots must be stopped, but the finest 
Figs are borne upon extensions. Shoots, however, should be pinched 
where necessary to prevent a straggling habit at the fifth or sixth leaf ; 
but avoid crowding the trees with foliage, keeping them sufficiently 
open to admit light and air to every part. 
Early Forced Planted-out Trees. —The trees planted in inside 
borders and started early in the year will, if the borders have had 
repeated waterings at a temperature slightly in advance of that of the 
house, be starting into growth, and may have the night temperature 
raised to 55°, 60° or 65° by day from fire heat, with an advance from 
sun heat and free ventilation to 70°, or even 75°. Syringe twice a day 
as before advised, but in dull weather damping along with an occasional 
syringing will be all that is necessary. See that the borders are properly 
moistened. If the trees are weak a thorough soaking with liquid 
manure, not too strong, at a temperature of 85° to 90°, will assist the 
growth and root action, which must be encouraged by surface dressing 
with rather lumpy manure, but not thick, a couple of inches thickness 
being ample. 
Pines. —Fruiting plants and starters, which will now be throwing 
up fruit, should have a mean temperature of 70°, varying it 5° accord¬ 
ing to the weather, admitting air at 80° with sunshine, but not lowering 
the temperature, allowing it to rise to 85°, closing between that and 80°, 
and if it rise somewhat after closing it will be an advantage. The 
plants recently started into fruit will, if in good condition at the roots, 
produce strong suckers ; when the suckers are large enough all, except 
one to each plant, must have the growth checked by taking out the 
centre. To supplement the autumn-potted plants select others which 
have been wintered in 7 or 8-inch pots, choosing the most vigorous. 
Those remaining may be reserved until the general spring potting, when 
they can be shaken out and treated similarly to suckers. 
Good fibrous loam with the turf well reduced, placed under cover to 
become dried, is a suitable compost. Drain the pots well, dust soot or 
dry wood ashes over the drainage to exclude worms, and ram the soil 
firmly about the plants, keeping them well down in the pots to admit of 
copious supplies of water being given when necessary ; 10-inch pots are 
suitable for Queens, and 11 or 12-inch pots for those of more robust 
growth. A temperature of 60° to 65° will be sufficient for these plants, 
also those potted last autumn, and about 85° bottom heat. 
Plants about to be started in beds must not have the heat at the base 
of the pots over 90° to 95°, or their roots will be injured. If sufficient 
fruit be started to meet the requirements late successional plants that 
have not been subjected to a high temperature may be advanced slowly, 
they with autumn suckers requiring careful watering, especially when 
the heat at the roots is supplied by fermenting materials, those having 
it supplied by hot water requiring more frequent attention. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Zonal Pelargoniums. —Cuttings will root freely in a temperature of 
60° if inserted singly in small pots of sandy soil. Select sturdy shoots 
from plants that have been kept cool. Weak cuttings drawn up in heat 
are almost certain to damp. Cut back plants from which cuttings have 
been taken and keep them rather dry until they break again into growth. 
They will start freely in a temperature of 55°. Kepot sturdy plants that 
have been wintered in 3-inch pots into others 2 inches larger. Press the 
soil firm into the pots, and use for a compost good loam, one-seventh of 
decayed manure and sand. Water the plants carefully at first, and place 
them in a temperature of 55°. 
Ivy-leaf Pelargoniums. —Propagate these as advised for Zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums. Plants wintered in 4-inch and 5-inch pots may be placed 
into 8-inch pots. If large, plants can be accommodated duriug the 
summer months in any light airy structure. If they can be trained up 
the rafters of a greenhouse from the middle of May they will yield 
quantities of flowers for cutting. The semi-double varieties are invaluable 
for this purpose. Do not shade them, even during the brightest weather, 
or they will fail to flower profusely. 
French and Fancy Pelargoniums. —Ptepot all that need more root 
room in the compost already advised, and place them where they can 
have abundance of air. Pinch the points out of all plants not needed 
for flowering early. The early cuttings must be well rooted in the pots 
in which they are to flower. Apply a little artificial manure to the 
surface of the soil, and allow the shoots to extend until they flower. 
Water these occasionally with clear soot water. Plants that were rooted 
late may be transferred to 5-inch pots if they are well rooted in the 
small size they first occupied. From old plants retained for yielding 
cuttings shoots may be removed and inserted at once. They wfill root 
freely in a temperature of 60°. 
Oah-leaved Pelargoniums. —These are very useful for associating 
with flowers in a cut state. Cuttings root freely at this season of the 
year in heat, and quickly make good plants with bold foliage if repotted. 
Old plants that have been cut back will soon start into growth if placed 
into gentle heat until they are started, and then repotted. It is a good 
plan to prepare a few plants for planting out for the summer supply. 
Gladioli Culvillei The Bride. —Where these are grown in quantity 
it is a good plan to sort them at this season of the year, and place a- 
portion in a cool airy structure. Those that are gently forced are very 
useful, but those brought forward under cool greenhouse treatment 
make handsome plants, and produce quantities of flowers of large size- 
and substance. This is well w'orth growing in quantity, both in pot» 
and in the borders outside. 
Anemones. —Anemones have been kept cool during the winter, and 
they are now growing rapidly, showing their flowers in quantity. Giv& 
them a light cool airy position or the foliage will be drawn up weakly,. 
Soot water in a clear state will be found very beneficial. 
Hydrangea hortense. —Plants cut back in autumn for yielding good' 
cuttings early are now being started into growth. 
Lilacs. —Small plants that have flowered in 6 and 7, or even 
larger pots, are pruned close back and placed in a cool house. If the-, 
plants are established in their pots, and are well cared for after they 
are pruned, they will make strong growth and flower again another 
year. Ehododendrons of the praecox type and Azalea mollis that have 
flowered should be kept in cool frames or late Peach houses until they 
can be thoroughly prepared for placing outside. 
Bulbs. —Examine the latest bulbs that were potted, and remove 
them from the ashes in which they have been plunged to cold frames^ 
Admit light to them gradually until they are green, and then ventilate 
abundantly. 
Bichardias. —Young plants raised and kept in boxes throughout the- 
winter may be potted singly in 5-inch pots and placed in a vinery or 
Peach house. These will prove useful for planting out in May, and 
will thus be ready for lifting early, and produce spathes freely during 
the months of November and December. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
The Past Win tee. 
If we could have chosen the weather we could not have had it 
better for wintering bees. The almost entire absence of snow 
with dry frosty days and frequent mild weather in this locality is 
a wide contrast to what it was in some places not more than fifty 
miles distant. This favoured tho bees in every respect, so much 
that I have never seen nor heard of bees passing a winter with less 
loss of life. 
January 18th was the most wintry day we experienced the whole 
season. The thermometer on that morning stood at 14°—certainly 
not low, but the wind was of a most piercing nature, which must 
have been trying to bees in damp hives, or where they were ex¬ 
posed to a draught. This is more or less the case when they have 
an empty chamber beneath the combs, aggravated when there is an 
inner and outer doorway, which arrangement causes a greater 
draught than is necessary with all its evil influences. To test the 
accuracy of these remarks make a few divisions of glass similar to 
hives in use, with arrangements having a small lamp in lieu of bees, 
then force in smoke on a moderate windy day, and the issuing of 
the smoke will give the strength of the current. 
Flowers and Peameal, 
These are at the present at least five weeks later than they 
weie in 1890, but there will be a quicker succession of them this 
year if the weather is seasonable, and will enable us in a great 
measure to dispense with peameal, which we have not supplied- 
as yet, although on the 1st of February, after more than two 
mouths’ confinement, I observed a number of bees fly direct from 
the hive to the peameal receptacle. As the utensil was perfectly' 
free from odour memory alone was the cause of the search. 
Feeding. 
The mild November was conducive to extra consumption of 
stores, which the severe hurricane of January 31st proved by the 
moving of some of the hives, but none was capsized. In order to 
prevent any mishap by want of food, and to save considerable 
labour uncovering them to ascertain their condition, I inserted a 
shallow trough in the entrance of every hive, where they may be- 
fed with ease and speed according to their requirements. This is- 
the most natural and in every respect the better way to administer 
food ; but the thin spale of Avood as a float must not be neglected- 
