136 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 12, 189''. 
and bees take syrup in this way more quickly than by any other 
method. 
Dead Bees. 
After the cold of January 18th I was prepared to find more 
dead bees than I had previous to that date, but I have been 
agreeably disappointed. Judging by their appearance all are in 
fine condition, and perhaps stronger than they were in December, 
as I have seen signs of young bees and but few dead. When 
inserting the feeder to one hive that had not its combs to the 
floor after the fashion of having an eke below, a fifty years behind 
practice, I was surprised to see what appeared a deep layer of 
dead bees, but on raking them out found less than a hundred, the 
bees having pushed them close to the front for easy removal when 
mild weather came. 
In one district I visited lately there are many dead colonies 
having plenty of honey, which would not have occurred had the 
bees been located in narrower hives. The entire absence of damp 
on the ventilating floor, as well as filtering the cold air before it 
reaches the bees, is another of the reasons why our bees survive 
when others die. It is reaping the reward of putting into practice 
little matters that without attentive observation would never have 
been revealed. 
Preserving Bees. 
The advantage of preserving bees during winter gives their 
owners the opportunity of having early swarms, and very often a 
yield of honey from spring flowers, and a large surplus from 
summer ones, as well as having the full complement of young 
queens raised under the best circumstances and condition for the 
present and future year, giving the largest amount of profit possible 
which may accrue from bee-keeping. 
My Apiary. 
One-half of my stocks are located in two divisions, while the 
others are in three, or what I term full-sized hives. The latter 
I shall work so far as I can control them to be non-swarmers, 
adding super after super, after I have made sure that sealed honey¬ 
combs do not obstruct the side passages. Should a swarm issue 
from any or all of them, they will be hived in the ordinary way, 
and the old stocks’ royal cells will all be removed after the eighth 
day, and a young fertile queen added wherever practicable, and 
the surplus sealed honeycombs removed ; then after a few days 
as the young bees begin to crowd the hive, supers will be placed 
on them. These, or such hives as these, are in the best condition 
for late Heather work. The first swarms will after a time have 
their old queen and surplus honey removed, and a young fertile 
queen introduced, these also being in the best trim for the moors. 
But should none of them swarm there will be only the old stock 
to deal with, which shall have their queens removed only, but no 
surplus honey except that in the supers. With the former I shall 
encourage early swarming, which may be in May, putting the 
swarms into two divisions, supering after a week or two depending 
on the weather. 
The old stocks will be broken up and divided into as many 
nuclei as I may deem advisable to meet the wants .of the apiary, 
with a percentage in excess, so that no hive of ful?*strengtfi may 
decline for want of a fertile queen. In all probability if the ^ 
weather during summer is favourable there will be a large increase 
of swarms, involving the necessity of adding many together as 
as practicable, will endeavour to keep all of equal strength and 
strong, for little can be gained by sending weaklings to the Heather. 
Punic Bees. 
These hardy and good workers are again in the ascendancy over 
other varieties, and if spared, and not disappointed in getting some 
pure queens, I mean to devote my spare time to watching their 
movements and studying their habits as well as that of raising a 
few pure queens, a thing becoming rare nowadays, but I hope that 
this ebony race in Scotch hands will be preserved in a pure state.— 
A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the 
post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communica¬ 
tions. 
Commission Agrents (/?. R. Q.). —We will make inquiries on the 
subject, but cannot promise to procure the information desired. 
framed Hollybocks QF. C .').—The best named varieties of Holly¬ 
hocks can only be obtained in the form of plants raised from cuttings, 
though good varieties are obtainable from mixed packets of seed saved 
from superior flowers. 
Shortening Prult Spurs {Inquirer). —Long spurs may be cut 
back as you suggest to buds nearer the main stem, discretion being 
exercised by the pruner, and it may not be the best plan to cut back 
the whole of the spurs the same season, but only some of them, thinning 
them out, so to say, and it may be done at the present time, 
Woodllce {T. R, 0 ),—If you persevere in the methods you are 
adopting you will considerably reduce the numbers of the pests, and 
you may also try some rough, dry old dirty boards placed face to face, 
but not so closely as to prevent woodlice finding their way between 
them. Some persons have found this one of the best methods for 
effecting the purpose desired. 
Plnus Inslgnls—mistakes (Somerset). — The word “spiny” 
which you cannot understand in the article on page 107 was inserted 
by mistake. Mr. Luckhurst described this Conifer as “ spring tender,” 
but his words were misread by the compositors. They also converted 
“Pimeleas” in the copy into “Primulas” in print in Mr. Thomson’s 
article near the top of page 100 last week. It is seldom two accidents 
of that nature happen in one issue of the Journal. 
Climber for Cold Greenhouse (J. G. F.). —With a Mardchal 
Niel Rose on the roof a flowering climber would have a poor chance on 
the back wall; but with plenty of light Clematis indivisa lobata would 
answer, being quick in growth and free-flowering ; it flowers in spring. 
Mandevilla suaveolens is fine for cutting, and very sweet ; it flowers in 
late summer, and is a rapid grower when it becomes established. 
Lonicera sempervirens minor is the finest of all Honeysuckles, and it 
does well in a cool greenhouse, flowering in spring and summer. 
mushrooms (F. Gle?son). —One Mushroom becoming united to 
another, hoisted on the top of it, so to say, and there supported, is not 
an unusual occurrence. It is the result, as you suggest, of the strong 
forcing the weak out of dense clusters and the tissues joining, and may 
be regarded, if you wish, as an example of the Darwinian law of the 
“ survivil of the fittest.” We are glad you have such a “splendid crop 
of fat Mushrooms,” for which you are good enough to say you are 
“indebted to our Journal.” Permit us to return the compliment by 
congratulating you on your own sound judgment and good work. 
ITtlllsingr Early Peach House Roof Eights (F. S). —The 
lights are likely to be of most service for placing over late Peach trees 
grown against a wall in assisting their fruit to finish well, and aid in 
ripening the wood. A span-rcof house would not answer, and a west 
aspect is not very favourable to Peaches in many localities, but in yours, 
unless very exposed, it would no doubt answer well. It will be neces¬ 
sary to provide efficient protection for the blossom, young fruit, and 
tender foliage in spring. Suitable varieties are Princess of Wales, 
Barrington, Wa’burton Admirable, Sea Eagle, the PTectarine Peach, and 
Gladstone. Dwarf fan-trained trees are best for walls. 
Propagating Bedding Plants (A Youngster) —You will be more 
likely to succeed with the “Geraniums” by leaving their propagation 
until March or even April than by inserting cuttings now in a hotbed. 
A hotbed would enable you to rear a quantity of plants, but we should 
not employ it for the bedding Pelargoniums, but reserve it for such as 
Ageratums, Verbenas, Lobelias, and others that need a close moist heat 
for their successful striking. The Pelargoniums will root very well in the 
vinery, taking care not to overwater nor shade too much. Though 
useful, spring struck Pelargoniums are not nearly so good for bedding 
purposes as are plants raised in the autumn, but we have used both very 
successfully in cases where there were older plants to raise the centre 
of beds, those from spring struck cuttings being planted round them 
for formiiig ow margin. 
