148 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February ID, 1891. 
of the lioyal Horticultural Society ; Mr. Philip Crowley, Treasurer of 
the Pi.II.S. ; Mr. If. Pt. Williams, Past Master of the Fruiterers’Com¬ 
pany ; Mr. J. Butcher, Solicitor to the Nursery and Seed Trades’ 
Protection Society ; the Rev. F. 11. Gall, Messrs. T. W. Girdlestone, 
Harry J. Veitch, J. Herbert Veitch, C. T. Drucry, Henry J. Pearson, 
H. Wallis, C. E. Pearson, Geo. Prince, H, Herbst, H. Turner, George 
Bunyard, W. J. Jefferies, A. F. Barron, Joseph Cheal, (fcc. There was a 
selection of vocal and instrumental music, kindly given by some 
amateurs, wdiich had been arranged by Messrs. Bunyard and Turner, 
and a most pleasant and successful meeting was enjoyed by all present, 
the only matter of regret being that the venerable and venerated 
Chairman announced his intention owing to increasing years to retire 
from his oilice, which he has found latterly to be somewhat of a burden. 
The announcement w-as received with universal regret. He has been 
Chairman since the formation of the Club, and has always shown great 
interest in its welfare. The toast of the Royal Horticultural Society 
was proposed by Mr. Harry J. Veitch, and responded to by the Rev. 
W. Wilks, who spoke encouragingly of its prospects, and was glad to 
bear witness to the fact mentioned by the Secretary, that the first step 
in the improvement of its position was made at one of the dinners of 
the Club, when the outside Committee was nominated, and he hoped 
that both the Society and the Club might go on and prosper. 
CULTURE OF GREENHOUSE RHODODENDRONS. 
CP.ize Essay read b/’Mr. U. O, WA'rB:UMA.N. Woolton, befo-c the SfemberH of the 
Wooltoii Gardeners’ Alutual Iinproveinent Society, February 5,h, 1891.] 
(^Continued from page 232'). 
Compost and Potting. —These details require the attention of 
'intelligent and practical workers. When it is stated a plant may be 
kept in the same pot for seven, ten, or even more years it is sufficient 
to prove that the work must be carried out in the best possible manner. 
Although they vary considerably in growth and appearance their 
requirements as to soil are similar. Good selected peat, with all sour 
portions removed, may be broken up into pieces the size of walnuts, 
and for very largo plants double that size ; to this add fully one-fourth 
of sharp silver sand and a little broken charcoal, to be carefully and 
thoroughly mixed. Pots should be selected of good shape and well 
burned, which will be less liable to become green, which is obnoxious 
to the eye and detrimental to the health of the plant. The pots and 
crocks alike should be scrupulously clean, and in arranging the drainage 
•select well fitting pieces to cover the holes, placing the hollow side 
downwards ; follow carefully with piece after piece until sufficient is 
arranged, which should be from 1 to J inches in depth, according to 
the size of the pot. A layer of sphagnum or rough moss over the 
drainage will prevent the soil being washed down or blocking a free 
water course. A portion of the roughest of the material can be put in 
next to the depth required, making it firm, and everything is in readi¬ 
ness for the plant, which must undergo close inspection. 
The ball or root should bo like the compost, just a happy medium 
between wet and dry. If the ball or potting soil be soddoned or wet 
the whole will become an impervious mass, in which the young rootlets 
cannot thrive, as an open porous mixture is one important item towards 
success. If too dry it will be impossible to thoroughly moisten it after 
potting, which means death to all the fine fibres that may come in 
contact with it. If there be any doubt that the plant may be dry at 
the bottom or centre of the ball place it in a tub of water, just 
■covering the rim of the pot, and lot it remain an hour or so, and then 
after a day or two it will be in safe condition for repotting. Like 
all other hardwooded plants these require firm potting, using a blunt- 
pointed stick for a rammer at intervals until the pot is sufficiently full 
which should be within three-quarters of an inch in small pots to 
1 \ inch in those of very large size. 
No rule can be laid down as to how often a plant should be repotted. 
Whilst in a young state a small shift may prove beneficial every year 
or two, but in large specimens seven or ten years will be sufficient. 
Old plants may remain in the same pots while they continue to make 
fair growth and are in good health. After potting the plants may 
stand a day or so before watering, and if a sprinkling of sand be 
scattered on the top it will wash down the sides if there is the slightest 
crevice. When jilanted out in beds or borders the above instructions 
should be followed. The most approved times or seasons for repotting 
are spring, early autumn, or immediately after the young growth is 
made, those especially advised being after the growth is completed for 
the Java section, and early autumn for the Himalayan and their allies. 
The Tempekatuke.—T hat of a greenhouse is required for the 
general collection, not less than .55° while making their growth, which 
can be reduced to 50° afterwards, and in the winter to 40°. These are 
extreme minimum temperatures. The Javanicum type will require o 
higher than those named. After the growth is completed ventilate freely 
to ripen the young growth. In the case of young plants a span-roofed 
frame at this juncture will prove an admirable position. Syringing will 
prove very beneficial during the season of growth, refreshing the 
plants and producing a humid atmosphere which they much enjoy. 
Insects. —Rhododendrons are fairly free from these pests. At times 
mealy bug will prove troublesome by getting under the scales of the 
flower buds. If such is the case, great care must be exercised while 
the foliage is young and tender, but when it is ripened and hard stronger 
measures can be resorted to in the form of insecticides. Fir tree or 
lemon oil, Gishurst compound or petroleum mixed at regulation strength 
and dropped on the buds will have the desired effect, a washing of clean 
water to follow the operation. Scale occasionally gets a foothold, but a 
careful sponging with one of the above-named mixtures will make itself 
felt. Rome of the woolly foliaged varieties, such as Edgeworthi, are 
more difficult to manage, but determination will win the day. 
Feeding and Watering. —An occasional supply of soot water, 
or a sprinkling of Standen’s manure will prove of service if the pot is 
full of roots and the growth puny and weak. The general management 
as regards watering is very similar to most hardwooded plants, a plenti¬ 
ful supply during the season of growth, but limiting the amount some¬ 
what after that period, or a second growth may start, which will pro¬ 
bably mean the loss of a crop of flowers, and a tendency to weak imma¬ 
ture wood. Special care should be taken when the plants are placed on 
ash or earth spaces to prevent worms entering the holes at the bottom 
of the pots, which will soon mean defective drainage, sour soil, and un¬ 
satisfactory plants. A slate, or some other hard flat surface should be 
placed for the pots to stand on, or for large specimens three small pots 
placed in triangular form will prove a secure base. 
Training. —All Rhododendrons require seme attention in this 
matter. The strong growers must be watched, or leggy plants will 
soon be the result. Nuttalli, and those of like growth, must be pruned 
back occasionally while young, or the growing buds rubbed off; other¬ 
wise the plants will represent a series of broomsticks with a tuft of 
leaves at the point. Veitchianum and Countess of Haddington should 
be watched, and occasionally a shoot may require stopping, or a tie 
may be given to keep the plant in bush form. Lady Alice Fitzwilliam, 
fragranti.ssimum, Gibsoni, Edgeworthi, and others of similar character 
will require supporting, which can be done by wire frames in pyramid 
or globular form. This section can also be utilised as climbers, or for 
covering walls, where their large evergreen leaves prove effective even 
when not in bloom. Many of the Java section will require some slight 
support, which should be done with as few sticks as possible, and fine 
ties. 
Serection of Varieties.— Although no mention is made of this 
matter in the title, yet it appears requisite, for to have a thorough 
knowledge of the cultural requirements of any class of plants it is 
essential to have a full acquaintance with their habits, size, and any 
peculiar traits they may possess, and for this purpose the species may 
be divided into two sections—the Java, or perpetual flowering, and the 
Himalayan. In the first named we have the brilliant and beautiful 
hybrids, for which we are chiefly indebted to Messrs. J. Veitch & Sons 
of Chelsea, and Messrs. FishCr, Son, k Sibray, Sheffield ; and in addition 
to those well known in our gardens we have R. balsaminaeflorum varie¬ 
ties, with exquisite double flowers which have been compared to the 
Tuberose, Gardenia, &c. The three varieties in commerce bear white, 
yellow, and rose coloured flowers. Among the stronger growing varie¬ 
ties the following arc recommended :—Dalhousiie (an epiphyte), 
Fiilconcri, fulgens, Maddeni, Nuttalli ; and for moderate-sized houses the 
following will be found suitable :—Veitchianum, fragrantissimum. Lady 
Alice Fitzwilliam, Edgeworthi, Virginale, and others. 
THE LATE MR. (JOHN DOMINY. 
We hear with much regret that Mr. John Dominydied at the age of 
seventy-five on February 12th, after two days’ illness, from inflammation 
of the lungs and pleurisy. The following account of his career, with 
the portrait, was given in this Journal in 1880, when, after a term of 
forty-three years’ service with Messrs. J. Veitch k Sons, he retired on 
a substantial annuity. He was born at Gittisham in 181G, and in due 
time was apprenticed to Mr. Guscott, gardener to the Misses Putt, 
Pomeroy House, Gittisham, Devon. At eighteen years of age—namely, 
in 1881—he went to Messrs. Lucombe, Pince, k Co.’s Nursery at 
