154 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Febraary 19,1891. 
process bein» carried out on much the same lines as laid down in the 
case of well-established Apricots. Be particularly careful not to 
•shorten the short natural spurs and which have a wood bud at the 
point only, as unless there are a few leaves beyond clusters of fruit they 
seldom attain perfection. Where there are plenty to select from extra 
long spurs can be cut hard back, and the stout stumps of lateral 
growth formed last summer and duly shortened ought also to be further 
reduced to about 1 inch in length. Leaders or branches required for 
furnishing will, if well matured, break more evenly when laid in to 
their full length. Plums are also frequently covered with copings and 
blinds, and pay well for the attention. The least that can be done is to 
fix poles at short intervals from the coping to the ground, and then 
hang fish netting in two or more folds over them. If birds are trouble¬ 
some net over the trees soon, otherwise defer it till the flowers commence 
unfolding. 
Young Plum Trees. —These may be planted at any time before 
the buds burst. They will succeed on either east, south-east, and even 
■cooler sites, and a lengthened supply of fruit can be had by selecting 
and planting judiciously. Some of the best for moderately warm walls 
are Oullins Golden, Kirke’s, Jefferson’s, Da Montfort, and Green Gage, 
while Victoria, Kivers’ Prolific, Morocco, Early Orleans, Washington, 
Transparent Gage, and Coe’s Golden Drop will succeed well in cooler 
•sites. The last named is the most valuable of late Plums, and might 
well be grown far more extensively than it is in private gardens. Pre¬ 
pare sites for young trees much as advised for Apricots, making the soil 
somewhat firm about the roots, and which ought to be spread out 
evenly, or much as they spring from the stem. What pruning is 
necessary may be done at once, but the trees ought not to be very 
closely secured to the walls, a little allowance being made for a settle¬ 
ment of the soil. All sound branches on what are sold as trained trees 
may be laid into their full length, but any bruised should be freely 
shortened back. Fasten the branches to the walls or fences exactly as 
they were trained in the nursery, and fill in intervening spaces next 
summer. The leading shoots of any so treated last year may be allowed 
to extend, and the same treatment continued till their limit is reached. 
They break more evenly and are more quickly productive when not 
shortened.'gaining strength gradually. All shoots not wanted for furnish¬ 
ing to be shortened to about 1 inch in length, and stumps of shoots 
summer stopped to be similarly treated. 
FEUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. —Earliest Forced House. — This 
applies to trees started in December. If of the early varieties, such as 
Alexander and Early Beatrice, they will ripen their fruit at the end 
of April; if such varieties as Hale’s Early, the fruit will not ripen 
until May ; if Royal George, not until the end of that month. The 
trees must be syringed every morning and afternoon to check red spider. 
If, however, the weather be dull, the syringing must be practised early 
in the afternoon, so that the trees may become fairly dry before night, 
■or if that does not take place the afternoon syringing must be dispensed 
with, damping the paths and borders instead, as keeping the trees 
dripping with water through the night causes weak growth and thin 
foliage. Outside borders must have protection from the cold, a light 
mulching of dry partially decayed manure is sufficient. Water inside 
borders as required, using liquid manure, which will assist the trees in 
swelling their fruit, especially in the case of weakly trees long sub¬ 
jected to repeated forcing. Vigorous trees will not require any stimu¬ 
lants, excessive vigour being unfavourable to the fruit safely passing 
the stoning period. When the fruit is the size of small marbles thinning 
may commence, but remove a few fruits only at a time, commencing 
w'ith those that are badly placed. Disbudding must be continued, 
taking care to leave a growth at the base of each bearing shoot, and 
another at its extremity, or at least level with the fruit. The shoots 
retained for attracting the sap to and supporting the fruit should be 
stopped at the second or third leaf, but the basal shoots must be trained 
to take the place of those now bearing fruit. Shoots upon extensions 
must be left at 12 to 15 inches distance apart to form the bearing wood 
of the future. It is a great mistake to crowd the trees with growths, 
for which there is not space to allow of its full exposure to light and 
air, therefore avoid overcrowding, seeking to maintain an equal balance 
of growth throughout the trees, and its solidification by judicious 
ventilation. 
Second Early House .—Let fertilising still be practised, gently 
brushing the flowers, or distributing the pollen by shaking the trellis. 
A camel’s-hair brush secures this efficiently. Admit air freely on all 
favourable occasions, avoiding, however, cold currents, and provide a 
little ventilation constantly at the top of the house. Continue the 
night temperature at 50°, 5° less on cold nights, 55° by day artificially, I 
and 60° to 65° from sun heat, not allowing a rise above 65° without a 
free circulation of air. Syringe the trees when the flowers fade and the 
fruit is set. The moisture will assist the fruit to throw off the remains 
of the blossom, but up to the fruit setting a genial condition of the 
atmosphere may be secured by damping surfaces other than the trees in 
the morning and early afternoon. 
Houses Started Early in February .—The trees started early in 
the month are swelling their flower buds rapidly. Syringing must 
cease when they show colour. Maintain, however, a good moisture by 
damping the paths and borders two or three times a day as the weather 
may dictate, avoiding a close stagnant atmosphere. If the flowers are 
numerous thin them by rubbing the hand downwards on the under 
side of the shoots, which will strengthen the remainder. Examine the 
trees closely, and if there be any aphides fumigate with tobacco, so as 
to destroy them before the flowers expand. Continue the temperature 
at 40° to 45° at night and 50° by day, above which ventilate freely. 
When the flowers expand raise the temperature to 50“ at night, 55° by 
day, and 60° to 65° from sun heat with free ventilation. On cold nights 
the temperature may fall to 45°, or even less, also 50° by day, allowing a 
little ventilation constantly at the top of the house. 
Cherry House. —The temperature having been maintained at 40° 
to 45°, and about 50“ in the daytime regularly, the trees are now rapidly 
unfolding their buds. Before the flowers expand it is desirable to 
fumigate the house, as aphides are almost certain to be present, or by 
syringing the trees with an approved insecticide, make sure that the 
trees are free from insects. An application of clear, rather strong 
quassia water (4 ozs. chips to a gallon of water boiled a quarter of an 
hour) will answer the same purpose, repeating it at intervals of a day or 
two. Any alterations in introducing fresh trees must be completed 
without delay, and taking precautionary measures, so that shading may 
be applied to such trees whenever sunshine is powerful, and in order to 
promote the re-establishment of the trees as quickly as possible they 
should be lightly sprinkled more frequently, and other surfaces 
moistened. 
A lean-to house erected against a wall with south aspect is suitable 
for Cherries, and it need not be more than 6 feet to 7 feet 6 inches in 
width. The back wall can be covered with trees, and the front to a 
height of about 6 feet with trees on the Mahaleb stock, but the finest 
fruit is had from trees trained a few inches from the roof lights, having 
low standard trees planted in front. Span-roofed houses also answer 
well, but are not so good for early forcing as lean-to houses. In span- 
roofs the trees can be in pots or tubs, or they may be planted out, 
growing as bushes, pyramids, or low standards, and they can be fan- 
trained and attached to trellises 9 to 12 inches distance from the glass. 
Provide in every case ventilation at the bottom and top of the house, 
and in the case of structures intended for early forcing the front roof 
lights must be moveable. The border must be inside, though the roots 
may also have access to an outside border, thoroughly drained to carry 
off superfluous water. Good loam, preferably calcareous, and rather 
strong is most suitable, adding a sixth of old mortar rubbish and a fifth 
of road scrapings, increasing the grit if the soil be too heavy, also the 
lime rubbish if the soil is not calcareous, but sand is essential to healthy 
growth in Cherry trees. Trees from the open Wall between four and 
six years trained, if carefully removed to the house, come into bearing 
at once, but to ensure their success they must have been frequently 
lifted. Supply water freely to settle the soil about the roots, and 
ventilate, syringing in the morning and again early in the afternoon, 
employing fire heat only to exclude frost, but when the trees are fairly 
in growth let the day temperature from fire heat be 50° to 55°, rising to 
60° to 65° from sun, increasing the ventilation at 55°, and close at that 
temperature, leaving, however, a little ventilation on day and night, 40° 
to 45° at night from artificial heat will be sufficient. Early Rivers, 
Empress Eugenie, May Duke, Archduke, Elton, Governor Wood, Black 
Tartarian, and Large Black Bigarreau are excellent varieties. 
Cucumbers. —Examine the plants in bearing once or twice a week, 
removing bad leaves and exhausted growths, thinning the shoots, 
stopping, and removing old and deformed fruits. Thin the old growths 
so as to admit of training in young shoots, overcropping and over¬ 
crowding being highly prejudicial. In securing the young shoots to the 
trellis do not tie them too tightly but allow room for development. 
Plants that have been in bearing for some time should have the 
surface soil removed and previously warmed fresh soil added. Turfy 
loam with a fourth of well decayed manure will answer ; we, however, 
prefer for Cucumbers and Melons turfy loam without an admixture of 
manure, seeking vigour by rich surface dressings or liquid manure. The 
bottom heat should not be allowed to fall below 75° or exceed 90°, 80^ 
being suitable ; house temperatures 65“ to 70°, 5° less in severe weather, 
70° to 75° by day, rising to 85° from sun, closing early in the afternoon, 
damping the pathways on bright mornings and at closing time ; keep 
the evaporation troughs charged with liquid manure, and damp the 
paths with the same at closing time. 
Melons. —The weather lately has not been favourable to the young 
plants, the growth not being free. In a Melon house, a ridge the whole 
length of the house or bed, about 2 feet wide at the base, with the top 
flattened so as to give a depth of 10 to 12 inches, is preferable to 
hillocks, the soil being made rather firm, and when warm the plants may 
be turned out, firming the soil well, and raising it within half an inch 
of the seed leaves. The plants may be placed 2 to 2J feet apart, the 
lea-ling or primary shoots being taken up without stopping until fully 
two-thirds the distance they are intended to travel is reached, then 
pinch out the point of each. When three or four lateral joints are 
made the points should be taken out. Some varieties will show fruit 
freely on the first laterals, and as early Melons are a consideration let 
them remain, taking out the point at a joint above them. To allow all 
the laterals to remain would very much overcrowd the foliage, therefore 
rub off every alternate one whilst they are quite young. After stopping 
the first laterals the succeeding growths will show fruit at the second 
or third joint. The growths should be trained thinly and regularly, so 
that every part of the trellis is covered evenly with foliage and fruit. 
The plants will require but little water as yet; nevertheless, maintain 
the soil in a moist state, avoiding anything approaching to saturation. 
Sprinkle every available surface in the morning of bright days, and 
again at closing time or early in the afternoon. Ventilate carefully, 
