174 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February £6,1891. 
properly swelled, and perfect in colour and finish, which are more profit¬ 
able and much more creditable than an enormous crop of large, loose 
bunches, unevenly swelled berries, red in colour, with a large per¬ 
centage shanked. Let laterals extend beyond the fruit where there is 
room for its exposure to light, but in no case must laterals be encouraged 
to the prejudice of the principal leaves. Attend to stopping frequently, 
for the alternating accelerations and check to root action consequent on 
•encouraging the laterals and then removing them by armfuls, are 
attended by the worst consequences to the foliage and fruit. Afford 
a thorough supply of tepid liquid manure to the inside border at in¬ 
tervals as required to maintain the soil in a thoroughly moist state, and 
mulch with a couple of inches thick of short lumpy manure, sweetened 
horse droppings as prepared for making Mushroom beds being most 
desirable, but avoid using them too freshly, for though a moderate 
amount of ammonia vapour is beneficial, when too powerful, particularly 
when the house is kept close as too commonly prevails in dull periods, 
it is productive of serious injury to the foliage and fruit. Maintain a 
night temperature of G0° to C5“, 70° to 75° by day, advancing 10° to 15° 
from sun heat, commencing to ventilate from 70°, keeping though the 
day at 80° to 85°, when external conditions are favourable, closing 
between those temperatures, damping at the time. Avoid syringing the 
foliage and fruit, as, however, clear and soft the water may be, there 
is danger of sediment ; in fact, we find a deposit on the berries insepa¬ 
rable from the use of the syringe after the Vines have set their fruit. 
All appears clear until the Grapes begin to finish, then the purple or 
golden hue stained with white is a serious blemish. Outside borders 
must be well protected against the chilling effects of cold rains or 
melted snow. 
Early Muscats. —Where there is a house devoted to these, and 
assuming it was closed by the early part of December, and the Vines 
started by the middle of that month, the bunches are now approaching 
•the flowering stage, and will require a night temperature of G5° to 70°, 
with a rise of 10° to 15° by day, closing at 80° to 85° when bright 
weather prevails. When they commence flowering it is desirable to 
■dust the bunches with a large camel’s-hair brush, and fertilise every 
bunch with Black Hamburgh pollen, this being very necessary for the 
best forcing of all Muscat Grapes—the Black or Muscat Hamburgh, 
which is very liable to have a large percentage of small seedless berries; 
Madresfield Court sets very much better, but it has not the Muscat nor 
in any case the high quality of the Muscat of Alexandria and Black 
Muscat. These are unapproached in quality, and to succeed, the roots 
•must be inside, particularly the early forced and late. Early Muscats 
:are prized, and to have them ripe early in June the Vines must be 
started at the time named, or to have them in the highest perfection 
they require time in ripening, the wood being thoroughly ripened and 
the roots having the benefit of a warm inside border, which has been 
duly mulched. A dry surface causes the roots to descend in search of 
moisture and nutrition, and the roots of Vines are often more abundant 
in the soil immediately beneath the drainage than in the expensive 
border prepared for them, simply because they find there the requisite 
uniform moisture of which Muscats require full supplies along with 
plenty of warmth and air. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Foecixg Asparagus. —It is a comparatively easy matter to force 
Asparagus, the greatest difficulty being to procure the requisite 
number of roots without crippling the ordinary spring supply. Only 
strong roots, or, as a rule, any three years old or upwards, ought to be 
lifted for forcing, and seeing that they are of no service afterwards no one 
.should lightly break up established beds without calculating what will 
be the effects upon the main crops. Where it is systematically forced 
a few old beds are broken up every year, new ones being planted 
to take their place, and this plan answers well. Hard forcing ought 
always to be avoided, a strong dry heat being especially objectionable. 
A gentle hotbed formed principally of leaves in a heated pit, or even in 
the open, and surmounted by frames is found the best means for for- 
w’arding Asparagus. Cover this with rich soil, set the carefully lifted 
roots close together on this and surface over with a thickness of not 
less than 3 inches of rich moist soil. Thus treated, and never allowed 
to become dry, strong succulent shoots will be quickly and continuously 
produced for the space of about six weeks. From two ordinary pit 
lights closely filled with roots it ought to be possib’e to pull or 
twist off, not cut, about three bunches of fifty shoots, and one bundle 
of *■ sprue ” or small shoots for soup, weekly. If strong sound roots 
fail to do well this most probably is due to overforcing and an 
insufficiency of water, poor dry soil too often surrounding Asparagus 
being forced. 
Kidney Beans. —Of these again it is hardly possible to force too 
many this season. What they require is plenty of heat, light, and 
room. Crowded either by being sown too thickly or stood close together 
•causes a weakly growth, and the crops are light and of short duration 
accordingly. Better, therefore, grow twenty-five pots in a batch, 
giving these good room, than many more crowded together. Fitful 
supplies are unsatisfactory, and successions ought to be sown every fort¬ 
night. If room can be found the simplest plan is to sow the seed direct 
into 8-inch or 9-inch pots, lightly drained, and nearly filled with rich 
loamy soil. The old plan of leaving space in the larger pots for top- 
dressings is quite uncalled for, this being so much useless labour. 
Give the preference to new seed of either Ne Plus Ultra or Canadian 
Wonder; place about nine seeds in each pot, set them on hot-water 
pipes if wanted up very quickly, and shift to a lighter position before 
the plants become tall. Thin to about seven plants in a pot, support 
with either Birch spray or stakes and raffia ; water carefully at first, 
but when the plants are approaching their full size they will require 
abundance of water and liquid manure. They succeed best on shelves 
in forcing houses, and in these positions receive the most light, air, heat, 
and best attendance. The pods ought to be gathered before the seeds 
are large, and the sooner they are cooked the more tender they will be, 
keeping them in water having a very hardening effect. 
Early Lettuces. —The early Paris Market Cabbage Lettuce forces 
readily either in boxes placed along the light fronts of vineries. Peach 
houses, or in warm pits, or better still in frames or slight hotbeds pre¬ 
pared principally for it. Supposing a pinch of seed was sown in a pan 
late in January, a very little heat would have sufficed to grow the plants 
to a good size by the present time, and they may at once be pricked out 
where they are to grow. Moderately deep boxes may be filled with rich 
loamy soil, and in these the plants should be pricked out 4 inches apart. 
Being assigned a light position, and only gently forced, they will soon 
be large enough for use. One-half of them ought to be cut early, and 
will be found tender and suitable for mixed salads, while the rest will 
form surprisingly good hearts long before any are available outside. _ If 
a frame can be spared, set this on gentle hotbed, throw in sufficient 
short manure to bring a layer of rich, somewhat fine soil, well up to the 
glass. Prick out the plants I inches asunder, keep them rather close 
and shaded till growing afresh, after which air should be given some¬ 
what freely, on warm days especially ; keep well supplied with water, 
and protect the frame during the night. Commence thinning out early, 
those left continuing to increase in size and value. No frame crop pays 
better than these. Sow more seed of the same variety, and also of 
Perfect Gem or any other good Cabbage Lettuce, while if Cos Lettuce is 
appreciated, sow seeds of Paris White, or selections from the same. If 
the seed is sown thinly in boxes, and the plants are not long kept in 
heat, they may be pricked out on warm borders where they are to grow. 
The Paris Market treated in this way will usually heart in more quickly 
than autumn raised plants of any other variety. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Stephanotis florihmida. —Plants that have enjoyed a good season of 
rest in a temperature of 50° to 55° may be started into growth in any 
structure that can be kept G0° at night. If gentle bottom heat can be 
given all the better, but directly growth commences lift them out of 
any material in which they may be plunged on to the surface, for they 
will be better without it. If these are in pots that are considered large 
enough top-dress with loam and manure. Directly root growth com¬ 
mences place on the surface of the soil a good layer of decayed 
manure. Syringe the plants twice daily when fine with tepid water, 
and give the shoots a good soaking if they have been kept on the dry 
side. If the plants have been infested with mealy bug watch carefully 
for any that may have been left. Plants that have been carefully 
and thoroughly cleaned will often, if neglected at this season of the 
year, be as bad as ever by the end of the season. Constant watchfulness 
is needed during the spring after a thorough winter cleaning if mealy 
bug is to be stamped out. 
Clevodendron Balfourianum, —Start plants that have been resting 
in a temperature of 55°. All unripe wood should be removed, and then 
give the conditions advised for Stephanotis. If the plants were 
placed into large pots last year remove a good portion of the surface 
soil, and top-dress with equal parts of loam and manure. Plants sub¬ 
jected to this treatment may be carefully trained upon their trellis. 
Those to be potted should have the trellis removed and painted, 
supporting the plant with a few stakes until it breaks into growth, 
when potting may be done. About one-third of the old ball should be 
carefully removed, and then repotted in the same or a larger pot as the 
case may be. Use for a compost two parts good fibry loam, while the 
other two may consist of leaf mould, sand, manure, and charcoal. 
Press the soil firmly and water carefully until the plant is rooting freely. 
A few seeds of C. fallax may now be sown. 
Bougainvillia glabra. —Prune out all weak growths and cut others 
back to one or two eyes if not needed for the extension of the plant. 
When this is needed strong growths may be laid in nearly their full 
length. The ball of this plant must be carefully reduced. Work from 
amongst the roots about one-third of the old soil just as the plant is 
starting into growth. Those that do not need potting may be top- 
dressed with manure. Start this plant the same as advised above, and 
when it has commenced to grow freely remove it to a lower tempe¬ 
rature, 50° to 55° will be ample, where air can be admitted whenever 
the weather is favourable. 
Allamandas. —Young plants that were not well ripened at the 
approach of winter, and have since been kept dry to harden their 
wood, may be placed into larger pots if the object is to push them on 
as fast as possible. If in 8 or 9-inch pots, those 12 inches in diameter 
may be used. Pot the plants in good loam, one-seventh of manure, 
and sand. Press the soil firm. Cut back the growths to where the 
wood is firm and train the shoots horizontally. By the end of the 
year they will have furnished a large space, and if exposed to the sun 
will flower profusely. Start into growth a plant that has enjoyed a 
good period of rest, prune the wood well back if not already done, 
and repot in the compost advised above. The old ball may be reduced 
one-half and then started in the temperature advised for Stephanotis. 
Eucliaris. —Plants that need to be repotted should be done at once if 
they aie not in active growth. Under these circumstances potting must 
