180 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 5, 1891. 
easily bent, and more readily fixed round rafters or angles of the 
wall than iron or copper. Either of the latter, though, are better 
for the base, as they are not so likely to be bent or injured by 
attention to the Vines or the border. The composite pipe is easily 
connected to the iron one by means of soldering.” 
BUSH AND PYRAMID PEAR TREES. 
Pears with us last season were exceptionally good in size, 
quality, and appearance ; the continuous hot sun of September and 
October ripened both fruit and wood splendidly. Many are of 
opinion that Pears can only be grown successfully on walls in the 
Midlands ; but that is not my experience, as our pyramid and bush 
trees, with few exceptions, carry full crops every year, and unless 
the season is exceptionally wet and dull they ripen well with good 
flavour. Of course, the trees have garden culture, and are some¬ 
what sheltered with high walls, and care is taken to prevent the 
roots from penetrating our stiff clay. We also incorporate about a 
third of finely sifted ballast with the natural earth, and that greatly 
increases the porosity of the soil and encourages fibrous roots. 
The branches are thinly disposed, and no bifurcations are allowed. 
The sun and air is thus freely admitted, which greatly facilitates 
the ripening of both wood and fruit. Only on lines such as these 
could we grow eatable Pears on pyramid trees in this cold district 
and on our impervious clay. The roots must feel the warmth of 
the sun as well as the branches, or the tree will not properly ripen 
its fruit, and this is secured by careful root-pruning and surface 
feeding. In Pear and other fruit culture an equal balance between 
root and branches must be striven for, and useless growth prevented. 
The sterility of many fruit trees can be traced entirely to the 
violation of this fundamental principle. 
If the roots are allowed to penetrate a cold wet subsoil the 
trees can only produce strong unhealthy shoots that do not ripen, 
and when these shoots are cut off, as they frequently are, the evil 
is only aggravated. By this baneful practice the balance between 
root and branch is destroyed ; the superabundant roots have to 
direct their force on fewer eyes, and the result is stronger and 
more abundant shoots. I remember seeing some barren Apple 
trees that had been subjected to this treatment, presumably “ to 
keep them within bounds,” rendered fruitful by simply allowing 
the strong shoots to remain full length, and cutting out entirely 
those shoots that crowded the tree. There are, doubtless, many 
sterile Pear trees that only require similar treatment to render 
them fertile. The strong shoots should be left full length and 
thinly disposed. This would induce a more tardy circulation of 
sap, and result in the formation of fruit spurs. Every gardener 
delights in a well formed tree, but shape and size should be made 
subservient to fruitfulness. To restrict the growth of a tree and 
at the same time secure its fertility, the knife should be chiefiy 
used at its roots and not much at its branches. 
The following are some of the varieties we grow as bush and 
pyramids :—Colmar d’Ete.—This is a small Pear, averaging from 
six to eight to the pound. It is a constant bearer, ripens early in 
September, and is very sweet and juicy. It is grafted on the Pear 
stock, and forms naturally handsome pyramids. 
Williams’ Bon Chretien is well known handsome Pear. Our 
crop of it last season was exceptionally good, being very clean and 
ripened well. The fruit, however, from pyramids is never so large 
as from walls, they average three to the pound. The trees, although 
grafted on the Quince, make long, strong shoots, which are clothed 
their full length with spurs, and they usually carry a full crop of 
fruit. The great drawback of this fine Pear is that it will not 
keep long, hence only a few trees of it should be planted for 
private use. Our main crop was gathered September 18th. 
Beurre d’Amanlis is a great favourite with us, even more so 
than Bon ChrHien. It has not failed to carry good crops the last 
^ight years, and the fruit invariably ripens well. We sometimes 
have fruits half a pound each, but they average a little under three 
to the pound. They begin to ripen with us early in October, and 
being, for an autumn Pear, a good keeper, they can be had in use 
for four weeks with a little management. The trees are on the 
Quince stock and make fairly strong growth, but it does not form 
a good pyramid, the branches having a horizontal and sometimes a 
downward tendency. 
Comte de Lamy is a small but most delicious Pear, a constant 
bearer, and in use all through November. They are worked on 
the Pear stock, and are weak and rather sprawly growers. 
Beurrd Diel.—This variety bears well with us as pyramids, but 
the fruits are not large, averaging four to the pound. They ripen 
well, and are exceedingly useful from middle of November to the 
end of December. The trees are on the Quince, grow moderately 
strong, and make good pyramids. Winter Nelis is, without doubt. 
one of the richest flavoured Pears in cultivation. It does well with 
us as pyramids, and is our chief Pear for January and early part of 
February. The trees are on the Pear stock, but the growth is weak 
and the fruit small, averaging eight to the pound. Fondante de 
Noel bears well, ripens in February and March, but the flavour ia 
little better than that of a Turnip. 
Duchesse d’Angouleme and Nouveau Poiteau both form hand¬ 
some pyramids, but they bloom too early, and on that account: 
seldom carry a crop of fruit. 
Easter Beurre and Knight’s Monarch bear well, but the former 
has no flavour, and the latter never ripens ; these are, therefore,, 
used for stewing purposes. 
Marie Louise and Hacon’s Incomparable bear too seldom as-- 
pyramids to be profitable. The latter, however, is a fine Pear 
and of good flavour, being’useful through December and January.— 
J. H. W. 
THE CULTURE OF SALVIAS. 
Salvias, when well grown, rank amongst the most useful of 
our autumn-flowering plants. At the present time the varieties, 
are so good that it is a great wonder they are not more extensively 
grown when we take into consideration that their culture is of the 
easiest. The colours of the flowers are so varied as to make^ very 
pleasing combinations ; many of them possess pretty foliage, 
and they come into bloom at a time when flowers are eagerly 
sought after. As regards their cultivation, anyone can succeed in 
growing them. Cuttings will be plentiful now on the old plants,, 
and may be taken at once. Fill some 4-inch pots with a com¬ 
post of any light soil, and give a surfacing of silver sand. After 
preparing the cuttings insert three or four in each pot and give 
sufficient water to moisten the soil. Place the pots in a close 
propagating frame, or those not having one will experience no. 
difficulty in striking the cuttings in any warm house. 
As soon as they are rooted place them singly in small pots, or if 
larger plants are required three plants may be grown in one pot,- 
using a compost of loam and leaf mould in equal portions, a little 
well-decayed manure and silver sand sufficient to render the whole 
sweet, and keep them steadily growing. When the young plants 
have attained a height of 6 inches pinch out the points so as to 
induce a bushy habit of growth. As the pots become full of roots- 
shift the plants into a 6-inch size, using a little less leaf mould in 
the compost than before recommended. Particular care should be 
taken in not allowing the plants to become root-bound previous to 
this potting, as if this occurs the growth is never so satisfactory, and 
flowers are never of such fine quality. About the end of May 
they may be removed into cool frames, and if syringed twice a day 
the foliage will be kept in a healthy condition. If the frames are. 
required the plants may be removed into the open air, as they will 
not suffer if all danger of frost and cutting winds is over. 
The last pinching should take place at the middle or end of 
June, and the plants kept neatly staked. As the pots become filled 
with roots weak applications of liquid manure should be given at 
intervals. This will be found of the greatest possible benefit in 
building up fine strong flower spikes. During the latter part of 
September remove them to a greenhouse or conservatory, when 
they will commence flowering immediately, and last during the 
earlier portion of the winter. We also secure good results by 
potting some of the old plants. The flowers are not quite so 
good, but the plants attain a large size. This especially is the case 
with Salvia splendens. The following varieties are all useful for 
a greenhouse, but any good nurseryman would make a selection. 
Albo-cserulea, Betheli, Grahami, Heeri (a rather tall grower, but- 
most useful for grouping), Mons. Issanchon, Pitcheri (a lovely 
blue), rutilans (a neat-growing useful variety, sweetly scented), and 
splendens. Of the variety Grahami, I may mention that the finest 
plants I ever saw were grown by Mr. Day, the able gardener at 
Galloway House, Garlieston, Scotland, some four years ago.— 
R. P. R. 
BARBE DE CAPUCIN SALAD. 
By forcing it in winter in darkness the common Chicory yields 
a winter salad known under the name of Barbe de Capucin, which 
is very much esteemed in Paris. To produce it the seed is sown 
thinly in the open ground from April to June. At the beginning 
of winter the roots are taken up, and after cutting off their leaves 
about half an inch above the neck they are placed horizontally on 
sloping heaps, composed of alternate layers of sand or soil, and of 
Chicory roots. The latter, of course, should have the necks point¬ 
ing outwards to induce a free growth of the leaves. Give a gentle 
watering if the soil used is rather dry, and supposing the tempera¬ 
ture not to be too low, you may look for a crop of fine shoots, 
10 inches long, in about three weeks from planting. 
