182 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Karcli 5, l£9n. 
shoots is allowed to remain, and directly the fruit has ripened and 
been removed these exhausted shoots are cut out. The result is 
that the energies of the tree are completely absorbed in the pro¬ 
duction of flower buds on the comparatively few growths which 
are left, and, as practice has proved, the tree performs its work so 
well that a crop may be counted on with an almost unfailing 
certainty. 
The proper time, therefore, to relieve the tree after the buds 
have been formed would be at the earliest stage possible, and not 
when they are well forward, for the mere opening of the buds into 
flower and the production of pollen is not a matter of much 
importance. No doubt directly the fertilisation of the ovule has 
been consummated a strain is placed on the powers of the tree, and 
the sooner extra fruit is cleared off the better ; but immediately 
previous to flowering the benefit cannot be anything great. 
The other point I wish to notice to this. Numbers of Peaches 
are not accorded the treatment described above. It is perhaps the 
exception rather than the rule. This of course should not be so, 
and, indeed, it may be safely affirmed that -wasteful of the energies 
of the tree as the practice of overcrowding is, it is equally waste¬ 
ful of time to the cultivator. However, the fact remains that 
Peach houses in numbers are filled with trees which annually have 
an unnecessary quantity of young growths laid in, much of which, 
along with the exhausted bearing shoots, is removed, not at the 
time the crop is ready, but some time during the season of the tree’s 
annual rest. It is no uncommon occurrence for trees cultivated in 
this manner to set very thin crops, not because there are no flowers, 
but because the greater number of these are abortive or deficient 
in energy in some one or more of the parts of fructification. Now 
if it were possible to determine “ which is which ” before the buds 
open, the practice of disbudding might be of some benefit here, 
but that is impossible before the flower has opened. And so we 
arrive at this point, that in all such cases the danger of removing 
perfectly equipped floral organs is so great that any compensating 
advantages that might be gained cannot fairly be assumed to have 
any practical importance. 
The only matter which I will further refer to is the bearing 
this practice has on the size of the fruit. This is the final test. 
It cannot, I think, be assumed that there is any taxing of the 
energies of the tree in producing flowers when a good method of 
cultivation has been followed. And in the case of carelessly 
managed trees, enough has been said to show the danger of the 
practice, but if the size of the fruit is to be appreciably increased, 
there would be some reason for embarking on a hazardous scheme. 
Personally I have given the practice a trial, and I discerned no 
difference, the fruit of course being thinned after setting at a very 
small size. I have not noticed anything extraordinary at shows 
either. There are sure to be some readers of the Journal of Horti¬ 
culture who can say something definite on this phase of the question, 
either for or against.—B. 
MELONS AND THEIR CULTURE. 
[Read by Mr. W. Palmer, Thames Ditton, at a recent meeting of the Ealing and 
Chiswick Gardeners’ Mutual Improvement Society.] 
(^Continued from page 107.') 
Early Melons may, with advantage, be grown in pots under favour¬ 
able conditions, using well drained Seakale or the ordinary 12-inch pots; 
these do not take up much room and the plants ripen fruit in advance 
of those planted out. The plants should only be allowed to carry one 
stem, and one or two fruits taken as required. The temperature of the 
house is also important, and should range in early spring from G5° to 70° 
at night, and from 75° to 80° in the day time, raising it a little as the 
season advances, and also allowing it to rise and fall with the tempera¬ 
ture out of doors. Air should at all times be judiciously given when 
the weather permits. Cucumbers may be grown in the same house as 
Melons where the space for both is limited, always reserving the south 
or sunny side for Melons, and using the [syringe more on the Cucumbers 
than the Melons'; in fact, where this is practised the Melons will hardly 
need syringing only where they come in close contact with the pipes, 
the moisture from the Cucumbers being sufficient. Some growers shade 
their Melons : but if Melons of first class flavour be required this 
practice should not be resorted to unless the leaves “ flag ” or 
“ scorch ; ” then, of course, it is absolutely necessary. The fruits will 
be found most subject to’the latter on a bright day after a period of dull 
weather. This may be prevented by putting a very light class of 
tiffany over them from 11 A.M. to 3 p.m., always removing it when the 
house is closed and syringed in the afternoon. When the Melons are 
about half grown the fruits will require support, a good plan being to 
make a network of bass round the fruit, making Arm to the trellis, 
and allowing room for the fruit to swell. This plan I invariably follow; 
using a net prepared for the purpose, and also a piece of wood 6 inches 
square with holes at the corners for strings, are other methods of 
support. 
Late Melons are often grown with great success, without any Are- 
heat, in cool houses or brick pits on similar conditions to the above, but 
may be planted out straight from the 60-pots, and will also require- 
much more water at the roots, as during the summer months, owing to 
the increased temperature outside,'they dry up much quicker, A flne 
example of successful culture under this system may be seen in the 
gardens at Eood Ashton Park, under Mr. Miller’s superintendence, there 
being for several yearsipast grand crops of fruit ripened in an unheated 
house, this being noted some time back in the Journal of Horticulture. 
In brick frames I would advocate the bed being cleared out, wires put over¬ 
head similar to Melon houses, as in this way a more certain and better 
flavoured crop may be had. Melons are often grown in an ordinary 
box light, but rarely, only in bright seasons, with much success. When 
this has to be done the plants should be raised in the houses and grown 
in 6-inch pots before planting, the seed being sown two or three 
weeks before making up the beds, the preparation of which should be 
done with care, so as to retain the heat as long as possible in them. If 
dull, cold weather follows the planting out of the Melons the beds 
should be well lined on the outside ; the foliage should never be allowed 
to become crowded, as Melons will not set freely unless the growths are 
thinly disposed. 
II, Select List of Melons. —This at the present day is rather 
a hard task, as within the last few years many good varieties have 
been introduced, and I have often heard it said that every grower 
has his own favourite, so I propose to name only those I have tried 
myself, and the varieties I have known others try with good success. 
In green and white-fleshed varieties we have Hero of Lockinge, sent 
out by Messrs. Sutton & Sons of ^Reading. This I have no hesitation in 
classing as the king'^of Melons, as it is easy to grow, a free setter, of 
medium size, and ai flavour pleasing to all. Good fruits of it are 
seldom [beaten on the exhibition table; and if I were asked to name 
one Melon only, I should certainly name the above. Imperial Greenflesh, 
also senti out by the same firm ; La Favourite, sent out by Messrs;. 
"Veitch ; William Tillery, a great favourite with many; Best of All p 
High Cross Hybrid, a very hardy variety with a white skin ; Monarch,, 
a new one sent out by Messrs. Sutton last year, and Conqueror, a good 
market variety, it being' a fine-looking Melon when ripe, of good- 
flavour, and easy to grow. In scarlet-fleshed varieties we have that 
good old standard variety Scarlet Premier ; Triumph, sent out by 
Messrs. Sutton last year, being a great improvement on the above 
variety. I do not hesitate to recommend it to all, having raised it 
some'fewlyears ago, and having for the last three years relied solely 
on it for my crops. It is of very hardy constitution, and without 
doubt one of [the freest jin cultivation, each lateral having one or more 
fruits at the first joint. It is also very thick in flesh, -with a band of 
green on the outside, which gives it a pleasing appearance. The fruit is of 
a good flavour, and is well adapted for frame work. Carter’s Blenheim 
Orange is a great favourite with many, and often seen at the head of 
the prize list [for scarlet-fleshed varieties. Read’s Scarlet Flesh is a 
good old favourite. In addition to these there is a host of others,. 
some of which have lately been certificated by the Royal Horticultural 
Society, therefore should be good and worthy of a trial, though I have- 
often thought that it would be a better way of judging a Melon if 
the Committee would see the variety twice before awarding it a 
certificate ; as although many have received that distinction in the- 
last six or seven years, they have not been good enough to lower the- 
colours of such Melons as Hero of Lockinge and Blenheim Orange. 
(To be continued.) 
THE KEW OBSERVATORY. 
A few weeks ago a complete record of the long frost a&- 
registered at the Kew Observatory was published in this Journal,, 
and it was then intimated that further reference would shortly b& 
made to that important institution. The opportunity has now pre¬ 
sented itself for the fulfilment of the promise by furnishing an 
outline sketch of the history of the Observatory and the work 
there performed, which cannot fail to possess some interest to 
many horticulturists who are so closely concerned with meteoro¬ 
logical observations. 
Comparatively few visitors of the thousands who journey to 
Kew and Richmond yearly have the slightest knowledge of the 
whereabouts of the Observatory here described, and even those who 
have noticed the building in the Old Deer Park have little idea of 
