Warch 5, 1801. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
193 
WOKK.foutheWEEK.. 
0 , 
A 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Plaxtixg. —Arrears of planting should now be proceeded with while 
the weather continues open, using all possible speed to complete the 
work before the young growth commences. Gooseberries are the first to 
feel the effects of mild weather in spring, and their planting should 
therefore be finished at once. Raspberries and Currants come next in 
order with wall fruits of various kinds, and standard Apples, Plums, 
and Pears are generally the last to push into growth, but planting of 
all kinds sho'uld be finished by the last week in March, and sooner if 
possible. The holes for the trees should be dug out G inches farther 
than the spread of the roots in order that these can be laid out evenly 
all round. The bottom of the excavation should be loosened to allow 
the water to pass away freely. If the soil is very wet, it must not be 
trodden with the feet, but placed firmly over the roots with the spade. 
Take care that the trees are planted exactly the same depth as they 
were in the nursery. In cold wet soils it is often the practice to 
plant on mounds above the surrounding surface. This at best is only a 
partial remedy, and it is far better to drain the land and make it other¬ 
wise suitable, or to choose another piece. 
Staking Trees. —All standard trees and others that may require 
it should be secured with stakes when they are planted to prevent 
“ wind waving,” whereby the top of the tree is rocked about until the 
stem and roots are loosened and strained, and the soil worked into a 
puddle. This is no uncommon occurrence in orchards, and accounts 
for the ill condition and death of many fruit trees. Standard trees are 
best secured by inserting two stout stakes to each tree about 1 foot from 
the stem, and nailing a cross piece on the tops of these on which to 
fasten the tree just below the branches. The points of the uprights 
last longer if they are previously soaked in tar or creosote. A piece of 
old sacking or hayband should be wrapped around the stem of the tree 
before tying to preserve the bark from injury. 
Mulching. —Trees that are planted now may be at once mulched 
with some short strawy litter, or similar substance. This ought to 
extend about 1 foot beyond the extremities of the roots to prevent the 
drying winds of March penetrating to them, and also to keep out frost 
and cold. Planting should never be done while snow or hard frost is on 
the ground. 
Pruning. —The tops of newly planted trees can be pruned well 
back, either before or as soon as growth commences, provided they have 
plenty of good roots, and promise to do well, but if from any cause 
they are in a weak state some persons consider that pruning should be 
deferred until next season, which will give the trees time to get 
established, and enable them to make a vigorous start afterwards. 
Selection. — Apples. — For Kitchen fw.— Lord Suffield, Lord 
Grosvenor, Ecklinville, Manks Codlin, Grenadier, Cox’s Pomona, 
Warner’s King, Golden Noble, Stirling Castle, Blenheim Orange, Fearn’s 
Pippin, Northern Greening, Wellington, Eeinette de Canada, Court 
Pendff Plat, and Allen’s Everlasting. 
For Dessert Use. —Mr. Gladstone, Williams’ Favourite, Early Mar¬ 
garet, Worcester Pearmain, Wyken Pippin, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Here¬ 
fordshire Pearmain, and Golden Knob. 
For Exhibition. —Peasgood’s Nonesuch, Emperor Alexander,* Lord 
Suffield, Blenheim Orange,* Cox’s Pomona,* Ecklinville, New Haw- 
thornden, Warner’s King, Loddington, Lord Derby, Golden Spire, 
Golden Noble, Bismarck, Schoolmaster, Cox’s Orange Pippin,* King of 
the Pippins,* Wyken Pippin,* Worcester Pearmain,* Wellington, Dume- 
low’s Sectlling, and Alfriston. Those marked * are used for dessert 
purposes. Soils and situation affect some varieties adversely, and 
planters should be guided to a certain extent by local advice. 
Plums. —Early Rivers, Early Orleans, Victoria, Oullins Golden 
Gage,* Jefferson,* Kirke’s, Pershore, Purple Gage,* Reine Claude de 
Bavay,* Coe's Golden Drop.* Those marked * require a wall in cold 
districts. 
Pears. —Beurrd Giffard, Beacon, Williams’ Bon Chretien, Beurr^ 
d’Amanlis, Madame Treyve, Fondante d’Automne, Emile d’Heyst, 
Durondeau, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Doyenne du Comice, Marie 
Louise, Pitmaston Duchess, Passe Colmar, Winter Nelis, Glou Moreeau, 
Bergamotte Esperen, and Nec Plus Meuris. As a rule, these should be 
grown either as bush trees or espaliers on walls or fences. Very few 
Pears can be relied upon for a good crop as standard trees, unless they 
are in favourable districts. Among the best for the purpose are Beurrd 
d’Amanlis, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Beurre Bose, Beurrd de Capiaumont, 
Williams’ Bon Chretien, Beurrd Diel, Marie Louise, and Hessle. 
Peaches. —Where warm south walls exist this fruit deserves more 
extensive cultivation outdoors, and better attention in keeping the trees 
entirely free from insects. They are perfectly hardy if the wood is 
thoroughly ripened in the autumn, and every precaution should be 
taken to secure this end. In doubtful districts only early fruiting 
varieties, such as Alexander or Waterloo, Hale’s Early, and Early Louise 
should be planted. Other good hardy sorts are Dymond, Stirling Castle, 
Early Albert, Violette Hative, Princess of Wales, and Late Admirable. 
In cold districts much help towards ripening the wcod may be afforded 
by providing a lighter and warmer soil than is usually given to this 
fruit, and in making the borders firm, and from 1 to 3 feet above the 
level of the surrounding soil. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines Started at the Kew Year. —Now that the best show of fruit 
can be determined the final disbudding must take place, but it is not 
wise to be in too great a hurry about that, for it is not always those that 
appear the best that develope into the best bunches, yet the sturdier 
growths, as a rule, are much best, therefore r6tain those only, rubbing 
off the others. Be careful in tying down ‘the shoots, not detaching 
the shoot at its base, nor causing it to snap by bringing it down too 
sharply at the point. Bear in mind that the object of disbudding is to 
strengthen the growths left by giving them more space for exposure 
to light, and if erring at all it ought to be on the side of too much 
rather than too little space. Overcrowding the foliage is the greatest 
evil in fruit culture. Do not hurry the stopping ; let at least two if not 
three good leaves be fairly formed before taking out the point of the- 
shoot, and where there is room four or more leaves may be left, and 
these will have greater elaborating power than double or treble the* 
number of lateral leaves. Stop all laterals below the bunch at the first 
joint, or they may be rubbed off except from the two lowest leaves, 
pinching these laterals at the first joint; but those on a level with oi' 
above the bunch may be allowed extend as space admits, yet on no 
account must they be allowed encroach on the principal leaves. When- 
in flower afford a night temperature of G0° to G5°, 5° more when mild,, 
with a rise of 10° to 15° by day from sun heat, closing at 80°. Muscats 
require a higher temperature, but it is a great mistake to attempt 
growing them in structures mainly devoted to Black Hamburgh and 
similar varieties. "An overmoist or a very dry atmosphere must be 
equally avoided, for Vine flowers set best when the atmospheric- 
moisture is not excessive. 
Late Vines. —These require a long season of growth, as to insure the 
Grapes keeping well they should be fully ripe by the middle of Sep¬ 
tember. In order to effect this start the Vines not later than March, 
and the best results attend giving them more rather than less time, 
thei’efore the Vines may be set to work at the end of February ox' 
beginning of March. Inside borders may be well watered, affording the 
water at a temperature of 85° to 90°, and if there are fermenting 
materials at command a bed may be made upon the border, which will- 
lessen the necessity for fire heat and induce a regular break. Care must 
be taken that the roots of the Vines do not penetrate any portion of the 
fermenting material, that must afterwards be removed when the Vines 
are advanced in growth—in fact, the fermenting material must be 
turned over frequently as a means of liberating ammonia and allowing 
the moisture generated to pass off freely. The rods may be sprinkled 
two or three times a day, main<-aining a night temperature of 50° to 55°, 
and 65° in the daytime, by which means the Vines will start freely, and 
there will be every chance of the Grapes becoming thoroughly ripe by^ 
September, even such varieties as Gros Colman and Gros Guillaume, 
which require a month or six weeks more time to ripen thoroughly than 
Lady Downe’s and others. All late Vines should be dressed without 
delay, the house thoroughly cleansed, and the border surface dressed, 
removing the loose surface soil and replenishing it with fresh turfy 
loam, to which has been added an admixture of steamed bone meal and 
wood ashes, at the rate of a quart each per bushel of soil ; about an inch¬ 
dressing is amp’e. If these are not obtainable use 3 ozs. of super¬ 
phosphate and 1 oz. nitrate of potash (saltpetre) per square yard, 
distributing it on the surface, leaving it for waterings to wash in. 
Artificial manures are excellent, indeed they are in some instances 
preferable to stable or farmyard manures, as they have not the tendency 
to leave a deposit of soapy matter and a close surface behind. Place s 
moderate covering of some protective material on the outside border tc> 
prevent chill from falls of snow or heavy rains and frost. 
Late ITamburgh Houses. —Keep these cool and dry, but the borders 
must not be allowed to become dust dry and crack, yet a moderate 
amount of manure only will be necessary to preserve the roots in sound 
condition. Ventilate fully at and above 50°, and when that becomes 
the mean of the external air, or a little before, the Vines will break 
naturally, which usually takes place during April, the only assistance 
required is to maintain an artificial temperature of 50° to 55° at night 
and on dull days. The Vines will set their crops by the early part of 
June, and swell them with sun heat ; artificial heat only being required 
after the Grapes begin to colour, as they are much improved in quality 
through ripening in a higher temperature ; indeed, the Grapes must 
be thoroughly ripened or they will not keep well, either on the Vines o:? 
bottled. 
Vines from Eyes. —Eyes inserted as previously advised have rooted, 
and if in small pots they may be shifted into a larger size as soon as the 
roots reach the sides, standing the pots on shelves over hot-water pipes 
in preference to plunging them in bottom heat, or if the eyes were 
inserted in pots or pans, several together, they may be placed in small 
pots singly, plunged in bottom heat to insure speedy root action, and 
when the roots reach the sides transfer them to G-inch pots. Syringe 
well amongst them, and stop those intended for fruiting at the first 
joint of the laterals, but those intended for planting out this season,, 
whether grown in pots or turves, may be allowed to retain all the 
growth made in order to manufacture roots, but thoroughly solidified 
wood is of vital importance to the production of fruit. 
VlG^.—Earliest Forced Trees in Blunged in bottom heat,, 
water will be required abundantly, taking care to apply it at the 
same temperature as the bed, or 70° to 75°, and alternating with 
