200 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Kareh 12, 1981. 
advised for Chrysanthemums. The little growths which are fur¬ 
nished from the sides of the stems are most useful for the filling 
of the smxller glasses, while whole stems are cut for large vases. 
The best of this group is Solidago canadensis. S. Shorti is very 
pretty, but sometimes too late to be of any use. 
Of quite another type from these is Eupatorium fragrans. The 
greenhouse species of Eupatorium are well known as being useful, 
but this hardy species, though perhaps on account of its period of 
flowering not so useful, is notwithstanding a much better plant. 
It flowers during the latter part of summer and autumn, and is suit¬ 
able for all sorts of decorative purposes, bouquet and wreath 
furnishing in addition to the usual forms of indoor decoration. 
The best results are obtained from young clumps. It is a capital 
“ dot” plant among mixed flowers. I will continue the subject.—B. 
PEACHES AND NECTARINES. 
Burixg the past few weeks the readers of the Journal have 
had the cultivation of the Peach and Nectarine prominently 
brought before them, first in Mr. Tunnington’s admirable paper, 
and secondly Mr. Goodacre’s excellent notes treating especially 
on varieties, and which are certain to prove of value to those having 
a large portion of glass devoted to their cultivation, coming as it 
does from one able to speak with authority on such matters. In 
reading the list of varieties of Peaches I was pleased to notice a 
good description of Crimson Galande, as we purchased a young tree 
two seasons ago, and not having grown the variety before, it is 
only natural I should feel somewhat curious when I "found the first 
bloom, which opened this morning, not a large flowered sort, as 
Mr. Goodacre describes it, but one of the small flowered varieties. 
I looked at the list in Rivers’ catalogue of fruits, and found 
Crimson Galande with small flowers. I know how difficult it must 
be for nurserymen to keep everything true to name, but I shall be 
pleased to know which of us has the true variety, for it is dis¬ 
appointing to grow a variety under a wrong name. 
In the list of Nectarines I do not see any mention of Pine¬ 
apple. It is an excellent variety, but perhaps Mr. Goodacre gives 
the preference to one of those he has named. We have, with the 
exception of Rivers’ Early Orange and Victoria, all the varieties he 
enumerates. To the Peaches mentioned I should like to add the 
names of three other varieties which have proved first-rate for a 
number of years.^ Not that I am in favour of growing a large 
number of varieties, which to many become a perplexity, especially 
to those selecting a small number, still there may be many who 
plant largely, and to which a description of well tried sorts, others 
than those mentioned, may be welcome. The three I wish to 
mention are Dagmar, Albatross, and Gladstone. The former we 
have in our early house ; it is a small flowered variety, a good 
forcer, and a free setter, and I could not do better than give 
Rivers’ description of it. 
Dagmar. —Large, melting, and rich ; skin very downy and of 
a deep crimson, very handsome ; a seedling from Early Albert 
Peach. I may state that the fruit of this variety will keep firm on 
the trees even when fully ripe, so care should be taken so as not to 
let it remain too long. 
Alratross. —This variety is grown in the late house. It has 
large flowers, is a sure setter, and the fruit is of the largest 
size, juicy, melting, and delicious. It is more flattened than the 
fruit of its parent Princess of Wales, and comes in ten days 
later than the last named. 
Gladstone. —A fine large Peach in use after Albatross. The 
flowers are small, and it is altogether a good late Peach. The 
fruit is beautifully streaked w’ith crimson, and the flavour good 
if gathered at the right time. 
In conclusion, let me say that I have not written these few 
lines _ with a view of disparaging any variety Mr. Goodacre 
mentions, but merely to add to his excellent list some which 
given us the greatest satisfaction, and which, if well grown, 
will, I feel sure, give growars who are able to try satisfaction 
as well.—R. P. R. 
VEGETABLES—THEIR VARIETIES AND 
CULTIVATION 
[A conlonsftl report of a p.apcr read by Mr. J. Lamcert, Tlie Garden^, Onslow Mall, 
SorewiOary, at a recent meeting of the Birmingham Gardeners’ Association.] 
Man\ different kinds of chemical compounds are found in 
vegetable.«, and seme of these are more abundant in certain soils 
than in others, affecting the growth as well as the flavour of the 
vegetables. A study of chemistry would often be a great assistance 
to all engaged in gardening, for could we but have our soils 
analysed to show us what substances are too abundant, or what 
are deficient, we should then know how to improve them. Without 
this knowledge all is guess work, and no doubt manures are often 
applied that are not the most suitable for the crops and the soH'. 
Soil and Aspect for a Kitchen Garden. 
If I could choose I should select a good loamy soil as nearly 
3 feet deep as possible, the ground sloping to the south but not 
placing the garden either at the top or the bottom of a hill, 
avoiding low-ljing grounds especially, so as to avoid, as much 
as possible, the early autumn and late spring frosts. It should 
be open and free from the shade of all tall growing trees, but if 
protected from the cold cutting winds from the east, and strong 
winds from t! e west by a plantation of Fir trees, so much the- 
better. The ground should be well drained, and for a large garden 
where land is plentiful I advise the walks to be made wide enough 
to admit a horse and cart for the conveyance of manure for vinery- 
borders and for the gardens generally, but we seldom see this 
provision even in large gardens. 
CULTIV^ATION. 
The rotation of crops is studied by many, and i'; is not advisable- 
to continue some crops long on the same groui d. I never like to 
grow a crop the second time on one plot, but I trouble very 
little about a rotation if the soil is properly worked. Some 
insist on having Peas to follow Celery, and so on, and all I have-' 
to say is. Do not grow just the same crop on the same ground twice 
if you can help it. If possible, I have all our garden ground 
trenched every year, but only the top soil into the bottom about 
once in four years. I prefer bastard trenching—that is, keeping- 
all the good soil on the top. My plan is this When starting the- 
trench, instead of taking out all the soil 2 feet deep and 2 feet 
wide, and wheeling this soil to where you will linish trenching, the 
top soil is taken out only 1 foot in depth, and a dressing of manure- 
is placed upon the remaining bottom spit, and this is well dug, 
working the manure in with it. Then the top spit from the next 
Width comes on to the top of the first trench, turned upside down, 
and this process is continued throughout. We all know that well- 
trenched ground retains moisture better in dry summers than 
in hard-trodden ground which has been dug only one spit in depth. 
A little gaslime or hot quicklime slnmld be dusted onto the top of 
the bottom spit, only slaking enough lime for one day’s use, so that 
it shall not become dead. Our garden at Onslo^v Hall has a stiff 
heavy soil, cracking badly in dry weather if at all tiodden or washed' 
by much rain, and I am no advocate for trenching early in the 
autumn, except for one or two crops. After the ground is trenched 
I give a dressing of lime over all, and this is lightly forked in. 
Another mistake is often made in kitchen gardens in the country, 
in digging in very large quantities of decayed leaves ye.ar afteR 
year, so that in time the soil is full of a hl-a< k humus substance,, 
which often causes fungus, especially to fruit trees, whose roots 
come into contact with it, and vegetables find but little food in 
such poor material. It is a common practice in most gardens for th-e 
stable manure to be used, but I have found that crops get tired of 
this stable manure year after year. I always try to obtain cow 
manure, as it is cooler for the roots in summer, and such a change 
gives ample repaying results from the crops. 
Burnt earth and refuse of all kinds in a chan’cd form I strongly 
advocate ; and I remember seeing that clever old gardener, the late- 
Mr Judd, when at Hawkstone, measuring out pure wood ashes, and 
applying so much to the square yard. 
Time will only admit of a brief allusion to each crop, as a paper 
could be devoted to each. As to Peas, these t find to do best in 
trenches, not using nearly so much manure as for C.-lery ; sowing 
them just deep enough that when earthed up the trench is still a« 
little lower than at the sides. Many amateurs, cottagers, and some 
gentlemen’s gardeners sow much too thickly. I sow the seeds- 
as I would Broad Beans, placing the P. as *3 inches apart, in- 
double rows, and look sharply after them to prevent their being 
ruined by mice or birds. Peas grown in this way yield a 
continuous crop, and one can keep on picking from the rows, as 
they have plenty of room for forming branches up the stems and 
give a more continuous crop. By sowing so thickly we procure a 
heavy crop, and the row is done with. Runner Beans should also- 
have plenty of room. 
Broccoli and Cauliflower are almost as useful to the gardener 
as Potatoes, because all fair sized gardeas are expected to have 
these vegetables the year through, and in ordinary winters this can 
be done, but not in seasons like the present. By sowing early in 
the spring we have plenty of small Cauliflower by the time oir 
latest Broccolis are finished. Cauliflower should have more liberal 
treatment, as I find that Broccoli planted on poor ground stands 
